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    Quinny320d
    Latest Entry

    So went to Paris end of last week and before I went I managed to get my wheels changed. 

     

    I went for Riva DTMS 8j fronts 8.5j rears paid £420 supplied and fitted & balanced with my tyres swapped over. 

     

    I replaced all the wheel bolts too with brad new ones,  and also put new centre caps on. Today I  just added brand new Msport badges on them too

     

    for some reason I can't get my links from photo bucket to upload images when I paste the links it won't show photos,and the photos from my iphone are saying too large 

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    Jorge-
    Latest Entry

    So, I thought it was about time I finally got together a full write up about my car. So much has changed during my time of ownership. Mostly the wheels, having been through six different alloy wheels and styles, and on the second lowering method, with the third sat in my garage ready to go on. This is the first car I have owned for more than twelve months which must be a good sign. Basically my aim with this was to get it as low as possible, as wide as possible and as attention seeking as possible and what better for this bright yellow wheels on a BMW.

    The car began life back in January 2002 when it left the BMW factory to be registered on the road for the first time in March the same year. It is a Sapphire Black BMW 330ci Sport, only two factory options - aero rear spoiler and a CD player. Now don't think that because of this it was base spec, it still has full black electric leathers, air conditioning, cruise control, rain sensitive wipers, headlight washers, the list could go on... the only big missing parts were Xenons and a satnav unit with Harmon Kardon sound. It had 2 owners prior to me, the first covering the majority of the mileage with 90,000 clocked up in the space of six years. When I went to view it in the snow back in December 2009 the previous owner had managed to bump the mileage right up to 128,000 and it was still running sweeter than anything. I knew the moment I drove it this was the car for me and picked it up New Year's Day 2010. Very good condition considering mileage and age and came with Eibach Pro Kit springs and a stunning set of staggered 19x8.5 and 19x9.5 Moven CF-1s. Everything about it satisfied my needs, it was a big engined, fast, black, low (or so I thought) BMW rollin' on some sweet rims. Everything was perfect, until I discovered the world of 'Stance'.

    This blog's aim is to go through the progress I have made, and will hopefully make over the next few weeks with all the ups and downs of the car along the way.

    -Jorge

    5520299547_4878e92747.jpg

    BMW E46 9 by Jorge-, on Flickr

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    simonlpearce
    Latest Entry

    A quick pic of the Storm V2, it weighs 450g which should make the ACS Short Shift Kit i have much smoother cool.gif

    blogentry-366-0-95280200-1306920104_thum

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  1. Hand-held Creator C110 OBDⅡcode scanner is designed to troubleshot BMW vehicle from 2000 to 2012, including read DTCs, clear DTCs, display live data and clear adaptation. The new updated V3.8 software adds the active test function for BMW MINI models. Here is the example of resetting 3-serie E46 airbags/SRS light with C110.

    Step-by-step instructions:

    Well install Creator C110 OBD2 software
    Plug the code scanner with vehicle via OBD socket
    Select DIAGNOSE function form main menu
    reset BMW E46 airbags SRS with Creator C110
    Select BMW series: 3 Series
    reset BMW E46 airbags SRS with Creator C110
    Select the detail BMW model: 3-serie E46
    reset BMW E46 airbags SRS with Creator C110
    Select Body control module
    reset BMW E46 airbags SRS with Creator C110
    Pull down the drop-list and select SRS (Air bag), click OK
    reset BMW E46 airbags SRS with Creator C110
    Select Read trouble code
    The system will automatically read error code information stored in Body module, press OK
    reset BMW E46 airbags SRS with Creator C110
    Select Erase trouble code.
    reset BMW E46 airbags SRS with Creator C110
    The reason for the airbags light was on the dashboard. It needs to be disconnected.
    Once reconnected, go back to C110 BMW code reader program, select Erase trouble code again.
    The system will display Trouble code is erased message.
    Airbag light will start to flash. If the light does not stop flashing, turn ignition off and then turn it on.

  2. In amongst the work on the 330d Touring, I have recently acquired a cheeky little Skoda Fabia VRS with the idea of using it as my daily. As a result, the 320d will shortly be put up for sale. With that in mind, I will probably carry out an oil service and stick another 12 months MOT on it as its due in the next couple of months. Then its just a case of giving it a very good clean!

    Its been a good car and has certainly served its purpose, I just don't need a saloon car as my daily any more and it is a continuous annoyance that I cant get my road bike in the boot.

    Someone will be getting a fully up together car that wants for nothing in its current state. Story of my car life really, get a car in tip top mechanical shape and then sell the thing on for someone else to benefit from...typical!

    Joe

  3. Hi folks, I have reposted this content again hopefully the pictures wont move around this time, not sure why that happened but the picture sequence is important to make the write up content meaningful. Hopefully it will work.

    Bmw rebuild 2015-updated 19/12/15

    Hi folks welcome to my BMW e46 330i touring refurb, I've owned this 330i 2001 supercharged touring for over 10years with a 200k miles on the odometer. I really enjoy the e46 chassis setup and was needing it to last at least another 10 years to have some fun for weekends and track days. 
    It is a fast road car setup and was not intended to be a full on track day monster but something slightly more interesting that the stock setup.

    image.jpeg.d23b6deaa6814db2b123817186657

    Image 1.1/ Picture taken before the restoration began. No MOT and SORN, 10months sat idle on the driveway.

    The hope is this journal documents the restoration and mechanical works undertaken since May 2015, I've been lucky in that I have had the use of another vehicle which has enabled this project work to be done without any time pressure. 

    Over the years I've added a few mechanical upgrades but have endeavoured to keep it close to OEM aesthetically, I quite like the idea of a sleeper car and hope the final outcome will be on the mark.
    I intend to also cover the existing mechanical mods and future plans in subsequent posts. I'm afraid that I am no computer wiz kid and will update via several edits over the next couple of weeks.

    Journal Entry 1- Rusting away on the drive. Under Chassis rust treatment.

    A trip to Rust Master to get the under chassis rust treated and sealed. They were doing a special deal at the time was about £250 irc, there were pockets of rust starting to form in all the usual places fortunately the engineer seemed to think we had caught it just in the nick of time.

    image.jpeg.5b16f51caaeb47b1308b0effdc9ee

    Image 1.2/ pre-clean down and treatment application. Generally tidy but small pockets of rust evident.

    image.jpeg.14b8f21cffae686bdb23c89336329
    Image 1.3/ surface corrosion.

    image.jpeg.1c7a7021134fd09640499038a1fd4
    Image 1.4/ Build in 2001 March, 14years old and the rust is on the go!

    image.jpeg.0a5ed6d60ba1eec2072ef36a90012
    Image 1.5/ The Rust exorcist at work, this is a rather messy unpleasant task and I don't have access to a ramp, best to get someone to do it for you as it rains waxoly literally.

    image.jpeg.b6eb93843bf3fbb5805cdc5c15cce
    Image 1.6/ Glad I'm not covered in waxoly like this man!

    image.jpeg.dee5eae49d6a79a453d9da10ea5c5
    Image 1.7/ Looking nice & shiny with rust treated the work also comes with a warranty.

    image.jpeg.a1fd6d451754fdd35b7e13c922859
    Image 1.8/ Lovin the shininess, won't have to worry about the chassis underside for a while. 

     

     


     

     

  4. Hi guys,

    I've recently had issues regarding my parking sensors, all were ticking correctly apart from one. *Each time I put it in reverse it beeps for 5 seconds) removing the back bumper from my car I discover that that one of the 4 cables from the loom isn't outputting anything, which is why the forth sensor isn't working. As a result I have ordered a replacement cable loom for the sensors. Can anyone advise when this loom plugs into the car? I attempted to follow the cables back but had no luck.

    (BMW E46 Convertible 320D)

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    AVOID**.. First of all I had my car booked in for some work with CPC,I'd done a bit of reaserch on forums etc and CPC came recommended. I used to use birds garage in iver but moved to St. Albans so was a little far for me to travel. Anyway I was getting my new turbo and cast iron manifold fitted to my  Bmw 3.0D .I was booked in first thing for when they opened to which I'd drop my car on the way to work where I would have a courtesy car waiting for me,Jump in the courtesy car and go straight to work for 8am.
    This was all booked up in advance about 2 weeks prior to this date. Day of car drop off I get there, and after abit of confusion I have no car for me to use. So benefit of the doubt I rescheduled for another time. 2weeks later get booked in again, drop car off on way to work ,again no courtesy car. abit annoyed now ,we arranged for me to swing by after work where they assured me the car would be available. Drive by after work and swapped cars. Great.. I had all the relevant parts in the boot of the car and was purely after the labour for them to fit everything. I am competent and know the e46 pretty well so I know what was involved but due to 6day weeks at work I just didn't have the time to do it myself. CPC quoted my iirc around £280-£300 for the work. I thought this was reasonable and agreed to the work.  I believe the car was dropped to cpc on a Tuesday in the end and was told it would be ready by Thursday. Perfect. Well after I didn't hear back from them on Thursday I gave them a quick call Friday mid morning and was told the car wasn't ready and that phill would be working late to get it finished and would be ready possibly Saturday for collection. (By the confusion over the phone to what my car was /work being carried out) it sounded like they had forgotten all about it as was parked around the side of there building) hence Phil would work late/ into weekend to get it done. Anyway Saturday came and went after calling in the morning with no answer on the phone. Again being a nice guy and not wanting to kick up a fuss I gave them benefit of the doubt as I know it's quite a popular garage for bmws and can get busy at times. 

     Another call on Monday confirmed my thinking and was told my car wasn't ready yet. I was starting to lose patients and faith in these guys now as they came recommended to me. Tuesday came and went, Wednesday came and went and finally around 3pm Thursday I gave them a call after not hearing anything from them with the meaning to say "stop the work I'm collecting as is", even if I have to sort a tow home and pay for what I owe.  I'll finish it myself   When I called I was told Ah sir your car is ready for collection now the boys have literally just finished. Great I thought. About time. Anyway when asking for the total bill payable i was given a massive slap in the face of a total bill for. Wait for it.... £814.72!!!! ARE YOU SERIOUS??! I'm fuming at this point. I was told over the phone that one of my injectors was faulty and was replaced at an additional cost of £177.22+VAT. Which is on top of work carried out at around £500 odd NOT the quoted price of £280-£300. 

    Also Asking for the old injector back I was told that its an exchange basis (so now I can't see proof it was actually changed) I also explained that I can't pay that bill. 
    I don't have that kind of money to hand as I was originally told it would be £300 max. 

    After arguing and complaining that they had not called me to see if I was ok to go ahead with the work before it was carried out Basically  came to the conclusion that I had to pay it or wasn't getting my car back as this is what was owed !!!
    Begrudgingly I Payed over the phone using my credit card I believe in the end. My keys and car where left over the road at the kwick fit and I returned the courtesy car after work and posted keys through their letter box.  This was in April this year (2015) now in October after taking engine cover off cleaning I noticed diesel leak in engine by injectors. Taking my car to another garage down the road they diagnosed a leaking injector..guess which one? You got it the one CPC replaced !! Plus the injector replaced by them is out of tolerance and is not functioning correctly so will have to be replaced. 

     
    I don't particularly like giving bad feedback and have refrained up until now. The faulty new injector was the last straw. I have advised people I know ,family and friends to avoid CPC if they can and think they were a total disappointment and unprofessional and possibly even fraudulent. and will never use them again. 
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    Hi there long time lurker that is now finally getting my car sorted.

    So I have owned this car since 2011.  I used it to drive to my wedding and love the thing.  A year ago I got a job where I do 40,000 miles a year so the bmw was laid up and has sat unloved for a year and isn't looking her best.  

    I fitted a new battery pumped up the tyres and she sprang into life a little rough running but that was to be expected and soon cleared.  I took it for an mot and surprisingly it went straight through despite running rough.  Emissions were ok.  I have found the cause of the rough running which was an air leak and have got a new hose to fit.  The traction control is also broken and before it was taken off the road this was put down to dsc pressure sensors which have also been ordered.  I have also ordered new brake pressure wear sensors as although there is plenty of meat on the pads the light is on and I assume it is a sensor so changing all four will fix that.  Finally a new thermostat is on order due to the ecu constantly firing p1620 error code when being read.  Once all these bits are fitted the car should be running sweet and hopefully the garage will be able to fix why the glovebox keeps falling down.  Then there is a list of work to do and this is where I need some help to find reputable companies if possible.  

    I have a new roof to go on and this will be being done by autotecnic in lutterworth I have used them before for some work and their quote was reasonable and as I expect it to be a tricky job I would rather it goes to a bmw specialist as a hydraulic pipe also needs swapping from my original tatty roof.

    Once this is done I need to find a bodyshop I want a full respray in the original titan silver and the mirrors fitting.  I have a rust spot on the rear arch that despite a new quarter being fitted keeps coming back and I want a proper job that will tackle this and stop it from coming back again.  As well as this there is a small spot under the tailgate that has been treated as well but comes back so I want that sorting to.  I would like to have the arches rolled so if I decide to go for different wheels in the future there is plenty of clearance, and finally I want the mv1s refurbishing in gun metal grey.  

    Final finishing touches for the outside would be new headlight lenses and tailpipes for the exhaust.

    Then it will be onto the interior the drivers side window seems very lose and rattly when partially down.  I have tried to tighten it with no joy so will be getting a new regulator fitted and the same with the drivers rear as that also seems lose.  The door cards seem lose and not all screws go in so I think I am missing some of the fixings which I will replace.  Once this is done I want to find someone who can spruce up the interior it isn't terrible but needs some professional care to get it back to its best can anyone recommend somewhere?

    Finally at the moment I am planning to add a hardtop for next winter as the roof is already tatty that I have on I am not concerned for this winter.

    The list of things will probably change the more I look at other cars and see things.  I can imagine it may get lowered on different wheels but that will be if and when everything else has been done.

    I have already done the audio with a dynavin unit and two amps a sub and two pairs of component speakers front and back.  I have also fitted a piper cross induction kit and angel eyes as well as led rear lights.

    I will keep this updated as progress goes on and would really appreciate any companies you can recommend.  I am based in Coventry so anywhere around the midlands would be good but for the right job I would travel further.

    A couple of pictures of how she looked before being parked up.  I have got any since I have got it road legal again but it isn't a pretty sight.

     

    11303647_10152844875866080_1239370253_n.

     

    10253062_10151998821186080_1492104684_o.

    10720799_10152362192626080_1999461893_o.

    The wheels it was on when I got it 

    1065892_10151488052286080_691293397_o.jp

    The replacement quarter that was used 

    1046859_10151505644436080_1865867483_o.j

     

    The roof that needs replacing even renovo didn't sort it 

    1231249_10151570944681080_1030004079_o.j

     

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    Recent Entries

    AndyJalba
    Latest Entry

    Hi guys

     

    I was wondering if anyone came across this issue.

    I have recently changed the SMG fluid and for whatever reason there appears to be a leakage. The fluid level is stable so the leakage is very small but there is a leakage.

    I've been to BMW and they told me it is an internal leakage and they can't do anything to fix it so they recommended buying a new gearbox 🙂.

     

    Could it be a gasket that needs replacing or a seal or the clutch actuator?

     

    Any advice?

     

    Andy

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    Feels like de ja vu doing all of this again albeit on a different E46!

    A couple of weeks back I sourced new Sachs M Sport shocks all round, Lemforder top mounts, Lemforder tie rod ends and a replacement upper steering union joint from a low mileage compact. And as with the 320d I also bought some Eibach Pro Kit springs.

    Finally got round to working on the Touring this weekend and started with the rear setup as its easier. Annoyingly the Touring requires half the interior boot trim to be removed before you can get to the sound proofing that protects the suspension turrets. As with the saloon, I decided to cut an access flap in the sound proofing to save the hassle of trying to remove it all completely. Once I was past the interior panels, the shocks, top mounts and springs were swapped out with ease.

    After some lunch I decided to start on the fronts, it didnt take long for me to remember why I don't like doing this particular job! In my haste I snapped the headlight level sensor arm and also managed to lose the ARB stabiliser nut in the shingle next to my driveway...joy!

    The biggest issue I had was getting the new EIbach springs compressed enough to be able to screw the new top mounts onto the struts....what an absolute pig that was! I remember it being difficult on the 320d but this time it was twice as bad given the fact that the M Sport struts are shorter than standard meaning the springs need to be compressed even more than normal.

    I managed to finish one side that afternoon and stripped the passenger side out ready to go again with the spring compressors on Sunday morning. As is always the way, when I did the other side it was done and dusted in about 30 minutes...I think I got the knack with the spring compressors and more importantly worked out the best places to locate them on the spring without hampering the spring fitment.

    In all of this there was a ray of hope in that the old front top mounts were clearly knackered with loads of play present. Sure enough, when I took the car for a drive there was an instant handling improvement and a lot of the play and vibration disappeared.

    I'd say it now drives and handles on par with my 320d which has an identical suspension setup minus the shorter M Tech shocks. And given that the Touring has big old heavy 18 inch MV1's I'd say thats probably as good as it is going to get.

    Regardless, I probably will fit the spare upper steering union joint I have, and I'll also get the Lemforder tie rod ends fitted, followed up finally with another visit to the Wheel Alignment Specialists in Southampton.

    Beyond that, I might get some yellow stuff pads in readiness for a trip to the Ring in 4 weeks time.

    Now I just need to find some time to prep the 320d in order to put it up for sale....

  5. Today was time to open more boxes, the Mayle HD arms and ARB link rods had arrived along with a new headlight washer ram for the passenger side.
     
    First fail of the day was the front central jacking point, I think I need a bigger wooden block or something because it just crushed in.
    [url="http://imageshack.com/a/img905/6420/mrTHer.jpg"]http://imageshack.com/a/img905/6420/mrTHer.jpg[/url]
     
    So up it went on the side jacking points with the stands on the main chassis rails, Out with the headlight and another To-Do list item showed itself, the fog light is broken away from it's top bracket. Swapped the washer ram and after a quick test involving a cheap pair of jump leads and a pair of screwdrivers (powering the pump directly) That was passed fit for service.
     
    [url="http://imageshack.com/a/img538/6680/gkmudJ.jpg"]http://imageshack.com/a/img538/6680/gkmudJ.jpg[/url]
     
    [url="http://imageshack.com/a/img540/4493/9tictJ.jpg"]http://imageshack.com/a/img540/4493/9tictJ.jpg[/url]
     
    [url="http://imageshack.com/a/img673/6596/gcaoIG.jpg"]http://imageshack.com/a/img673/6596/gcaoIG.jpg[/url]
     
     
    Wheels off and arms out.
    [url="http://imageshack.com/a/img537/2263/TI0AEF.jpg"]http://imageshack.com/a/img537/2263/TI0AEF.jpg[/url]
     
    [url="http://imageshack.com/a/img540/6834/saLqiW.jpg"]http://imageshack.com/a/img540/6834/saLqiW.jpg[/url]
     
    [url="http://imageshack.com/a/img538/306/gjjkQO.jpg"]http://imageshack.com/a/img538/306/gjjkQO.jpg[/url]
     
    The left side went swimmingly, a light smear of rubber grease and the new bush slipped on easy, some recommend WD-40 but that can attack rubber so I used the proper grease, I keep some in stock for cleaning out the callipers on the bike. 
    On to the right, and I couldn't get a socket on the inner balljoint nut from above because of the engine mount so off with the under tray and 1/12th of a turn at a time with a spanner it was a bit slower than buzzing the other side off with my impact gun. 
    The outer nut was a swine, after a few turns it locked up, jack under it and even lifting the car off the stand didnt get enough friction on the pin to unlock it... Hacksaw time, great fun... Mental note, buy air powered buzz saw.
     
    All done and the car drives like it should now, the front tyres are almost ready for changing now though, and the brake pads, and discs all round, and the drivers door speaker has a loose connection.
     
     
    It's a good job that I am a tinkerer by nature, this car will keep me happy for a while.
  6. UOBD2

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    Many people always ask a question.what car diagnostic tool is the best

    so we will tell him--- AUTEL Maxisys

    Which version of MaxiSYS to buy?  or MaxiSYS or , after finish reading the following parts about their similarities and difference, you will have idea.

    Similarities:
    CPU: Samsung Exynos Quad-core Processor 1.4GHz
    OS: Android 4.0 Ice Cream Sandwich
    SSD Hard Drive: 2GB
    Touch Screen Display: 7.9″ 1024×768 LED capacitive Touch Screen
    Connectivity: USB 2.0, Ethernet, Wi-fi and Bluetooth
    Dual Band 802.11n Wi-Fi: 2.4 GHz & 5GHz
    Camera(rear): 5.0 Mexgapixel, AF with Flashlight
    Wireless VCI: all available
    Optional Lab Scope: all available
    Optional Video-Scope: all available
    Boot Up Time: all 20 seconds
    Complete OEM-Specific Scanner Coverage: all support
    AutoVIN Technology: all available
    MaxiFix Cloud-Based Information System:  all available
    Shop Manager: all available
    ECU coding: all advanced
    ON-line update: all available at autel official website, free for One Year
    Basic diagnostic function: all available
    Multilingual support: all support

    Difference:
    1) Internal Battery
    MaxiSYS Mini is built in with 5000 mAh 3.7v Lithium Polymer Battery
    MaxiSYS and MaxiSYS PRO is built in with 11000 mAh 3.7v Lithium Polymer Battery

    2) ECU Flash Programming
    Only MaxiSYS PRO support, besides Autel Maxisys Pro can do online programming, at the same time it’s compatiable for diagnosis and online programming for part of the original software.

    3) J2534 Hardware included
    Only MaxiSYS PRO include

     

    Want More information Please Search: 
    http://www.autelmaxidasds708.net/
    http://www.uobd2.net/

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    johnnyMTEC
    Latest Entry

    Well this is my first blog.....EVER!

    Firstly I just wanna say this site is much better than another site I am a member of which I now rarely use. The members on here are far more supportive and helpful so thank you.

    I rarely get a chance to get on t'internet due to work so I'm not ignoring anyone.

    So I bought my car as when I had my 328i e36 touring I wanted a black 330i touring sport e46 with black leather and everything black and as many nice options as I could. Took me 3 years to find the one want but I got it :)

    I've replaced the front bushes (lower arm and anti roll bar) with poly ones, rear poly anti roll bushes, lower arms, drop links, front tyres, discs and pads and the bugger still wobbles but I'm sure with persistence and support I'll get to the bottom of it. :P

    Looking to upgrade the cd sat nav to the dvd sat nav along with the maps and software and purchase a dension unit so I can keep it all pretty stock.

    Few other bits I need will be, in time:

    a spare MV2 alloy (front size) as a spare

    new door motors

    short throw shifter

    I've not opted for major power upgrades as I want the car to ride sweet and be audibly pleasing from a music perspective.

    Thats it for now. Thanks for looking :D

  7. Bought them looking like this..

    IMAG0168.jpg

    Then I had them refurbed, lips polished but not lacquered and centres painted in an Audi metallic grey colour

    wheel3_zps0e0d7ebe.jpg

    wheel1_zpse4ce8fbd.jpg

    wheel2_zpsc921a22e.jpg

    IMAG0245.jpg

    Next I had them shod with Michelin Pilot Sport 3 225/40/18 on the fronts and Bridgestone RE040 255/35/18 on the rear.

    wheelsfitted_zps5fc6d412.jpg

    IMG_5101.jpg

    IMG_5100.jpg

    IMG_5098.jpg

    IMG_5097.jpg

    IMG_5096.jpg

    IMG_5092.jpg

    IMG_5116.jpg

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    took my friend to a car park where I prity much taught most of my friends who actually graduated to driving only to find a travellers cam and little humps all over the car park.. :2guns:

    I gave them some doughnuts in exchange :punk:

  8. So, it's been back what, a week or so? Alarm problem was solved by unplugging the bonnet sensor, and removed as it was falling apart. Happy days... For a week!

    Rewind back to 11th June, my sis took the motor up to Newcastle, the ASC light made an appearance so I got a call, ok'd her to carry on driving there and back. When she got back I checked the tyres and there was 1x mismatch on the rear and also the tread depths were different. 

    I drove it around on the 15th before I took it in for tyres and the light had disappeared so I'm assuming at high speeds the tread differences and possibly inflation pressures made enough of a difference to trigger the ASC light. I had it on my e36 too. So, I thought I'd try that option first. 

    Got to my tyre garage and they swapped the right rear to the pass side front so the fronts had same tread depth and then put a new Bridgestone on the rear to match the other one. Then tyre pressures were corrected, 32psi front, 37psi rear. £25 later drove out and the car instantly felt miles better. 

    Got home and parked the car up, went inside and carried on with my day. 

    Yesterday (16th) my sister tried to start the car to go to work, and nothing. No clicks, no starter motor struggle, nothing. Not a sausage. I feel to wash my hands of this motor now, I have spent almost £1950 in the two months we've had it, and I feel I could have bought a much newer car for this much money. I just want to set the bastard on fire now. 

    Enough is enough, never ever going to buy a bmw diesel again. 

    EVER.

  9. Been looking out for the right thing as I didn't want a huge piece of plastic attached to the vents.

    It's called a SpiderPodium

    20140102_200401_zps7uy7nng9.jpg

  10. Firstly - a disclaimer: I am clearly not a mechanic and not very capable. If you do what i do and it goes terribly wrong then do not blame me. The tools that i generally use are a hammer, pry bars and an angle grinder so think baboon with power tools and you'll not be far wrong. It will not be neat or pretty but hopefully functional and i'll learn bits as i go along...

    To be honest the 328 sounded a bit weedy and had hardly any noise at all.

    On my previous 325 i had taken off the huge air filter box and the filter sat above the alternator and would get a bit hot.. I'd never really wanted to purchase one to increase the power but more for the intake noise. My old K&N on my 325 lasted in excess of 50k miles and i didn't really have an issue with heat soak. and this time I had a cold air feed from a previous K&N air filter and many cable ties so i though sod it i'd give it a go.

    So i looked on eBay and loads of other stores so see what filters i could find. I bidded on a few eBay specials but lost out.

    In the end I bought a massive universal air filter for £25, i went for Silver over the red or blue from motor ``mania in Witham and set to work.

    I took out the old air filter and measuring up the filter it looked like it would actually fit in the original air filter box so long as i left the top off. This meant that the new filter could sit in the original box which meant that i had a ready made basis for a heat shield - bonus!

    The filter went onto the hose on the largest intake so i didn't need any of the other reducers in the box.

    I cat a "U" shape in the back of it so the filter would be held in place within the box. I also cut a smaller U shape in the front left side where the original air intake came in (through the top section of the box) and moved it down so that it threw air at the filter.

    Next i cut a hole in the bottom of the air filter for the cold air intake pipe and set about botching the front bumper to create an air intake. I drilled several holes and cut between them in the bumper blanking plate rather than disrupt the brake cooling ducts. This was the biggest t**t of the job and it was fiddly and i couldn't get the bumper blanking plate out to do it neatly on a bench so did it lying down and swearing a lot.

    Zip tied it to the front banking grill and started it up to check for any issues. None - so all good.

    http://www.e46zone.com/forum/gallery/image/4736-/

    http://www.e46zone.com/forum/gallery/image/4737-/

    http://www.e46zone.com/forum/gallery/image/4739-/

    http://www.e46zone.com/forum/gallery/image/4738-/

    The end result is much much better noise and its only bedding on so hopefully will get better.

  11. Hemmi

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    Hello guys. New here . looking forward to picking up some tips and tricks from the more experienced owners out there. Im now a month into owning e46 330cd convertible 2005.