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  1. Today
  2. I think air leaks are off the menu so far as my guy has gone through all of this and found a small couple but I will stick with what you have said so far as it looks good and so far she drives good. Work in the morning at 5.20 ish so lets hope mate !! Mart.
  3. Time will tell because it was a sporadic fault. Faults that are not constant are a pain to identify and with no codes to assist it really is a case of educated guess work. The trouble with that is some people are happy to throw parts at a fault until they hit the jackpot and fix it by luck. Garages do that with other people's money! Some keyboard mechanics, particularly on Facebook are like it too as they think they know everything. That's why I suggest un-plugging the MAF sensor plug first as it's free. If it's not that we'll have to have a re-think but there's air leaks and things to consider that are likely and can be found for little or no cost too. Kirkynut
  4. WOW......Thanks for that, I now know I am not harming things with it unplugged. I took her out this morning and it seemed to run a touch better but with no symptoms so you may be on to something here, I hope lol Is there any way I can tell if it is no good ?? Many thanks and I will keep you posted. Mart.
  5. It measures the amount of air entering the engine which, along with the emissions that the lambda sensors give the ECU, the throttle position, oil temperature, coolant temperature and other bits of information tell the engine what ignition timing to run and how much fuel the injectors should squirt in at that moment for the engine to run it's best. The ECU works this out thousands of times per second. We've even got variable valve timing on both the inlet and exhaust on these with the Vanos system. The ECU effectively takes all of these values given by all of these sensors and refers to a table (MAP) that tells it what to do to make the engine run as it was programmed (Mapped) to do so. So you can see how with all those parameters an engine tuner is a talented person. When you un-plug the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor as I suggest, the engine uses a set of parameters it knows are safe to provide a stoiciometric air/fuel ration of 14.7:1. This air/fuel ratio gives the cleanest and most efficient burn for petrol. You'll likely see no difference in how the car drives but it will not be as fuel efficient. Here's this copied off the interwebs: "The ideal (theoretical) air-fuel ratio, for a complete combustion, is called stoichiometric air-fuel ratio. For a gasoline (petrol) engine, thestoichiometric air-fuel ratio is around14.7:1. This means that, in order to burn completely 1 kg of fuel, we need14.7 kg of air." If your symptoms occur with the MAF sensor unplugged, the problem isn't that. So leave it un-plugged for a week or so when you'd expect the problem to arise during and if it doesn't arise, replace the MAF sensor. I hope that wasn't too long winded! I struggle with concise! Kirkynut
  6. Yesterday
  7. Yep that's the DSC pressure sensor.. No codes need to be cleared - once the values return to within tolerance the fault should clear. I'd say one of them has gone again. I was told to replace them in pairs - if one goes the other won't be far behind and it's not worth the labour twice. That's what I did. To be sure, get the codes read again. If DSC sensor still comes up - one of them needs replacing again. This time bite the bullet and buy new from BMW. Not worth risking a 2nd hand one failing again as you may find..
  8. Prior to this the previous one you could see a slight leak from the connector, the leak is no longer present on this one. Wondering if the codes need clearing on the car or if it's something else ?
  9. The attached is what I changed. I replaced with second hand one which had no problems.
  10. Which brake pressure sensors did you change? Do you mean DSC pressure sensors? They're attached to the brake master cylinder and are around £100 each for proper items which you can ONLY buy from BMW. If we're talking about the same ones, which ones did you replace with? If you bought from BMW - get them to re-test the sensors. If you bought Chinese eBay specials or used ones - they're probably knackered again. I replaced mine with genuine BMW ones a while ago now, no issues since. Steep at £200 for the pair but no point scrimping if replacements fail so often
  11. Hi guys, stumbled and confused with what's going on and really irritating me with the lights on my car have both these lights up on my car, had it diagnosed as brake pressure sensor. I checked and both are outside, so I got a whole unit and had the brake fluid changed same time. The light stayed on constantly and after driving for abit the light went off. The problem is the light comes back on now and then. Is there something I'm missing ? thanks
  12. OK so I took off the connector after the air cleaner and it seemed to run very slightly better but that could have been in my head. I have checked all the other stuff and they are just fine. Educate me please ?? What does what I have unplugged actually do ? Cheers Mart.
  13. Lee lad, Did you ever get this sorted? I’ve had the exact same problem, one sensor clearly faulty, replaced it with a cheap non-BMW part and while I can hear the sensor clicking, it clicks unevenly and it does exactly the same as yours, works OK when first plugged in but after turning ignition off and back on it doesn’t work at all (not even a long beep). 2003 320CI convertible
  14. Last week
  15. I'm quite excited about this but I'll likely never see it or get to ride in it, so videos are requested! Kirkynut
  16. Cheers. I'm not sure I'd call my 320i auto a driver's car though. When I want to drive enthusiastically it's not really the tool for the job but the other 85% of the time it's just the ticket. My next car will be a manual and faster! Kirkynut
  17. Thanks Tim, very useful - I'm looking forward to doing the whole lot on Bank Holiday Monday. Supercharger next month... hopefully.
  18. Good to see your progress on the car. On mine the aux belt tensioner bearing was a bit noisy, it has the spring loaded tensioners not the hydraulic ones, I just replaced the tensioner wheel with a Dayco 89133, which was recommended by a forum member. This worked perfectly. The cheapest I can see for sale is this one from Canada, for about £30 on EBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Dayco-89133-Idler-Pulley/283548347800?epid=76186573&hash=item4204cc6d98:g:89YAAOSwvg9XdFzp The one I bought was from the UK for about £20, so you might be able to find one cheaper than the above if you look around. Will be good to see your supercharging progress, I have thought about doing it to mine but decided the effort + cost vs. reward was just a bit too high for me + risk of the clutch needing doing (it's on 160,000 miles). Mine is running exceptionally well with relatively new vanos seals and genuine O2 sensors, remap, no air leaks, so it's just about fast enough for now.
  19. You need to open a photobucket account and upload your pictures there, once uploaded there is a share icon which will give you a link you can copy and paste into your thread
  20. If someone could tell me/show me how to post pics I'll add some more photos.
  21. Just ordered through a family member in the the trade with BMW discount: Both rear boot plastics - the side pieces, mine are faded and scratched. Also the lateral trim panel across the area the boot closes on as that's scratched too. On order are the black 'ashtray console' and the beige 'handbrake console' plus new OEM velour mats. Scuttle panel below the wipers Car's booked in next month for paint: Front bumper Bonnet Front N/S wing Rear bumper New Calearo FM/AM & DAB sharkfin aerial. Replaced the mesh grill at the front and cleaned it all up - really brings it back up to date. Found an Alpine TUA100 DAB tuner for sensible money which works through the Intravee which is easy to fit, but I'll do that when I do the boot plastics. Got an M3 full button console - that I think you can see in the pics. I've wired in the TPMS retrofit and need to code that next. For the Sport button I've come up with a plan; replace it with a PDC button so I can switch the annoying PDC gong off if I want to - say when I'm on the phone to someone... Got all the parts and hope to get to this at the weekend. Planning for my supercharger fit currently, this means: CCV rebuild DISA valve New tensioners - aux and AC - car's 85k miles and 17 years. New AC belt - mine whines New water pump New expansion tank New thermostat Love my E46 - the herd is really thinning but I enjoy driving it every time.
  22. Correct. The stainless covers need to be cut drilled tapped and welded so takes about a week. Scott
  23. Completely agree - social media is useless for build threads. My next challenge is trying to refit my rear 'door' cards - mine's a coupe, so no rear doors, but you'll know what I mean. I took both of them off to fit the Bavsound Stage 1 speakers and I just cannot get either of them back on.
  24. Keep the build threads alive cant beat a good sit down and read, social media just isn't the same for this type of thing, too hard to track progress on cars you like. This is my first BMW and this is the first BMW site I joined, I spent weeks reading and researching on here when I first got the car and the tips, ideas and inspiration I got have been worth there weight in gold so if my simple little project can inspire someone else well then job done. Brave or foolish its a fine line but didn't have much choice as used parts are much harder to source here never mind for a vert. In the year or so I've had the car I've only seen one used vert interior come up and it wasn't a sport and was rough and expensive. The finish isn't perfect but is good, most would never see the flaws guess its more cause i know they are there. Still a bit more to do here and will be refinishing the seats at some point. With the fall closing in fast my roof is in need of some sealing so have ordered a cleaner / dye / sealer kit for it yesterday so that will prob be the next update.
  25. Thanks for getting back to me Scott. If I'm sending you my OEM struts - you need €230 for the springs, covers and ends? I've already got the blue springs 32 x20 as well as the OEM ejector bump stops.
  26. Popped in to checkout your build after your commented on mine. Love all the oem extras you have added and only wish I could run a supercharged 6 but insurance costs here are to crazy, and paying the high premiums for a car that gets out once or twice a week if i'm luck doesn't really make sence , maybe if i was using it everyday the power might seem more worth the expense. I see your last post was back in December any interesting updates for us since then??
  27. I got it to work on 1, however that boot was damaged so didnt want to go live until tested on another car. I am based on Ireland, it rans here alot, so verts are limited.
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