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  2. Hi, I wonder if anyone has suffered this issue before and can share their advice please, getting pretty desperate. When manoeuvring off the drive in first thing in the morning, when i turn to almost full lock in either direction there is a strange feeling and clunking noise from the N/S/F wheel. It almost feels like something is under tension and then all of a sudden, it releases and I can feel it through the steering wheel and also the car moves slightly. It only happens when the weather is is getting colder, no issue in the summer. I've had the following work done Fully checked by 2 garages (one an independent BMW specialist) Power steering fluid changed New wheel bearing Front wheels swapped over I've got power flex wishbone bushes Full four wheel alignment Was told at the last service that the front shocks have started to weep slightly so they will be replaced soon with new springs. Can anyone recommend any good after markets? I am at a loss and been throwing money at it to try and rule things out. I've had the car for 10 years + and it started and been getting steadily worse over the past year and a half. I wonder if the rack is at fault? Car is on 182k E46 05 plate 320D touring with 18" MV2's. Any suggestions or advice greatly appreciated
  3. Today
  4. I just found this thread so thought i'd post up in it, just doing the cooling system on my 330 Ci At the moment i've gone for OE tank, cap & sensor, OE water pump (no exchange on these according to BMW) Nissens Radiator & Febi Bilstein viscous coupling Undecided on hoses and other parts
  5. Had the car on the ramp 2 days ago to fit new rear discs pads and hand brake shoes, whilst we did that we popped the under tray off and had a close look at the expansion tank, rad, hoses etc everything bar the tank looked in very good condition. Looks like its got a very slight leak so its off the road till its replaced. Popped into Sytners and got good discount on the Water pump, expansion tank, cap and sensor Nissens radiator Febi Bilstein viscous coupling as that seems to have very little resistance
  6. Yesterday
  7. Last week
  8. Do you think the best bet is to remove the top and have a look ? Mart.
  9. Sorry, but did you not notice the filter when you replaced the tank? You need to remove/replace it before you can place the pump into the tank.. Not sure about the bleach idea - it's corrosive to rubber isn't it? No issues in using it to clean and soak etc.. But wouldn't leave it in there. Vinegar does the same thing but again not sure how the rubber seals would hold up. I used a pressure washer on mine last time.. If you get a right-angle nozzle (under chassis nozzle) then makes it super easy to clean out. Probably had to do mine twice in 5 years so don't mind not using anything in there.
  10. Just an update : I managed to find the mesh filter which was heavily was blocked. Thanks for your help. It’s working fine now.
  11. Where is this mesh filter? Is it part of the windscreen wash tank because I replaced the whole tank. Or is it separate to the tank? I read about this mesh filter on another post but can’t locate it.
  12. Rears will fit, but you'll need a slimmer tyre. 4 fronts is a bit lame. It's all about the rear concave.
  13. Hi Rob, Thanks for your thoughts. Unlikely in this case, as it replaced a BMW double din nav/tv (the car is a M3) and my installers would have mentioned it at the time (I have used them for years), but i will ask. Any further thoughts?
  14. Do a continuity check on the rear screen elements with a multimeter. Use a test lamp to see if there is current to the screen. Find the earth for the screen and clean it. Kirkynut
  15. At the bottom of the tank where the pump pushes into the rubber fitting is a fine plastic mesh filter. Lever out the rubber fitting that the pump pushes into, being careful not to mis-shape or damage it and check the filter. It might have got clogged with crap of the sides when you filled it. I dropped a tiny bit of bleach into mine to kill any mould growing and kept repeating the cleaning process until there was nothing left. Tedious but now it's clean and doesn't clog up. I now drop the tiniest amount of bleach in the reservoir each time I fill it to stop crap growing in it and clogging the filter. If your rubber seal doesn't seal once you've put it back together, just smear the tiniest amount of instant gasket or sealant on it and don't re-fill until it's had time to set. Kirkynut
  16. Welcome back. There's only a handful of us left on here now. I don't know the answer to your question but someone else might be along soon. Kirkynut
  17. Sorry, I only check in on here once a week or so. I'm guessing that you are looking for a 6 cylinder as not many people want a 4 cylinder. Convertibles suffer the same issues as any other with: Expansion tanks and radiators split Cam cover and oil filter housing gaskets leak Thermostats stick (usually open) Water pumps fail/leak Coolant pipes swell when old Window regulators fail, especially relevant on convertibles as front windows drop to allow door to shut With the convertibles specifically, check the roof goes up and down time after time and that it fully goes down and all the plastic covers are there and go into place as they should and are not loose. Check every electrical button does as it should in case it got left out in the rain with the roof down a few times. On a 330i or 330d if your crazy enough to buy an oil burner convertible and like the smell of diesel fumes, check the boot floor has not been torn/cracked. Google it, it's mainly an M3 thing but lesser cars have been known to do it. Check the carpet is not wet anywhere to indicate a leak. Kirkynut
  18. If you spend enough on them yes, but you will have to accept that the ride will not be as nice. If you buy cheapies, like JOM for example, you'll get the visual effect and no doubt it will corner a bit better but the ride will be crap. If you get something like BC Racing that is great quality and has adjustable dampers, you can soften the damping to make it a bit more comfortable on the road. You need to pay that money though. Kirkynut
  19. Hi Momo, thanks for reply, however the guy posted a review last week about his E46 so I am sure he still has it ! as far as my situation....it was very bad and has been to court and won the case...but it’s a very long story that I won’t bore you with ! once again thanks for reply
  20. Hi, I’ve got an issue where the windscreen washers (Both left and right) are very weak (barely hitting the windscreen). I disconnected the tube from the washer jet nozzles to identify where the issue is. I ran the washer again with the tube disconnected and noticed the water was trickling out the tube and not ‘squirting’ out. So I thought based on that the issue lies with the Windscreen washer tank or pump. So I went to the scrap yard and found a e46 and tested the wipers and the washer squirted out like how it should! So I bought the tank along with the pump. I fitted this into my car and it didn’t resolve the issue. I then thought it may possibly be the tube (from the tank to the jet nozzles) that may be blocked so I blew into it and air came out the other side of it without any issue. So I took it the garage the mechanic said he thinks the pump needs replacing but for me this is hard to believe considering it worked perfectly fine when I tested it at the scrap yard. Has anyone help with this please? It’s not a big issue at moment but I know I will need to fix it soon as we’re heading into the winter and will need to use it with all that grit on the roads! Any ideas will be welcome
  21. hi i own a 2006 318ci e46 and just need to no will coil overs make it ride and handle better as at the moment it is standard height and feels all over the place when i drive it and feels crap at handleing
  22. Installing a double din head unit usually involves cutting into the air ducts and losing the air flow to the passenger foot well if I remember rightly.
  23. 2004 325 cab On the hard top when in place, the heated rear window does not work. When you press the switch, the interior light comes on but very dim so before I start to strip stuff down do you have any ideas where I should look first ? Many thanks Mart.
  24. hi all, not been on here in years since my ols 328 ci days but ive just bought another E46 after years of driving a 5 series and finding it boaring, its a 2003 facelift convertible and ive bought a set of M3 wheels for it style 67 that im going to mirror polish. from what ive read the rears wont fit my car so ive managed to get hold of a square set up but was wondering what size tyres should be fitted and should I fit 5-10mm spacers on the rear? any help on spacer size and tyre size would be great thanks.
  25. I swapped my interior, not hard, won’t take long and you can pick up pieces cheap on the bay. I totally agree the seats are ridiculously heavy, but you’ve got a nice car there... go for it,
  26. Earlier
  27. I hadn't factured in the crank pulley ffs lol
  28. Lol. I get ya.. It's a bit of a mystery though tbh as i've seen some people have failed expansion tanks at 40-50-60k and some at 180k! My cooling system is all original @ 140k, apart from the water pump.. On diesels though the rad is also behind the intercooler so extra protection. Personally unless you're wanting to do a full refresh for the sake of a refresh and have the cash to blow on it i'd leave it all as it is and replace as/when needed. If not then like you say, where do you stop? I know I did a belt-drive refresh when I bought my car all those years ago and bought OEM parts where needed. It wasn't too much shy of £2k to get it all done (inc average priced labour). The crank pulley was £400 at the time. Alternator £450, water pump was £150, all tensioners etc.. They'll be cheaper now.. Tie a few bits together, yes.. So for example if the expansion tank blows then use the opportunity to replace the rad too. But I wouldn't go replacing bits if they're working.. IIRC the later (after the production run of E46's finished) water pumps came with a metal impeller. The crank pulley fails as it's rubber bonded to metal so when it petrifies over time it comes away, same as the prop centre support bearing.
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