Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Last week
  2. Hi My name's Dave, serial 3 series owner with 2 E36's and 3 E46's to my name. Currently smoking about in a 320d with 260k on the clock and running like a Swiss watch. Just bought a 330ci vert for my wife and weekend family fun. I like to do my own maintenance but I'm no expert so I ask questions.
  3. New windscreen going in today. Came out to find a crack running from the top right nearly all the way down to the bottom left
  4. Found a universal solution, and it is to buy a low end 3D printer. It will give greater value for money because I can do other stuff with it.
  5. I thought so. I'm going to give him some cash for doing it anyway - I don't think it's right to take stuff for free off small businesses these days. He always does a good job, and has got me out of a couple of sticky situations at short notice if/when I can't be bothered to do jobs on the car myself, or if I've needed an ECU reset after I've replaced some daft bit of engine or whatever.
  6. Just an update, I have checked the codes. And I have a code for the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor (3F31). So I will change this and let you know if it's solved, to help anyone else who may have this issue.
  7. Thanks for the info everyone. I took the car back to the garage where they were fitted. He confirmed they were indeed very shagged, but since they are now 16 months old, he can't return them to the supplier. I've not driven it at all for the past 3 months, so in effect they've only done around 9000 miles. He did say that if I got the suggested Meyle arms off Amazon, he would fit them for free. So I think since it's not his fault, the offer for free fitment is quite resonable. I was going to fit them myself to save some cash, but not having to crawl under the car and buy a ball joint splitter is a bonus. So there we go. Cheers.
  8. Getting the measurement right is critical. Here's for the Ci: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e46-330ci-cou/repair-manuals/31-front-axle-front-suspension/31-12-wishbones-struts-including-rubber-mounts/2Xfee7L Find similar section for your car. A large F-clamp or a ratcheting strap can be used for pressing on the new lollipop. Must press in the center to avoid risking tearing the bush rubber. Use a "cup" of the right size as part of the press will help. I can't remember what I used, maybe a socket or a large washer.
  9. Thanks guys - is there a guide for proper fitting of the lollipops?
  10. Hi there, I've been having this issue for a little while now with my 2003 320d e46. The problem is (when it happens) I have a misfire followed with no boost. This could happen when I'm driving, when I've just started the car or after it's been idling for a bit. I could then keep driving and it'll go back to normal, or switch it off and come back to it later and there's no fault at all. I have no EML on either. If you go to start the car, you'll know if the faults going to happen as it takes a little longer to start when the faults there. I have blanked off the swirl flaps last year, deleted the egr, changed the egr pressure converter solenoid, changed the map sensor, cleaned the maf sensor, changed every vac line for silicone ones, and all service bits done (oil, fuel and air filters with oil change). I'm yet to get a scanner to read the codes. I wonder if it could be a common injector issue? But find it weird how it's so intermittent, makes me think more electrical. And could the injector misfire put the car into a limp mode reducing the boost? Any help would be gladly appreciated, as I've been searching high and low for solutions. Thanks Dave
  11. Hi guys, My car has been stalling whilst driving at speed. It is almost like my foot is being taken off the accellerator and the car just coasts down to around 15 mph then sometimes stops or regains full power and i regain throttle control! (whilst this happens the accellerator pedal is totally of no use) HOWEVER when I unplug the MAF the problem stops. My car had a camshaft exhaust code and a maf code. I have changed both of these I have also swapped the disa/icv, the brake sensor behind the footpedal and still have had no luck! I've thoroughly looked for intake and vaccuum line leaks and cant find anything. Has anyone else had this experience?? Cheers Dave
  12. The install instruction requires the bolts to be stretched I think. So, if you want proper install designed for 155 mph autobahn driving, then replace. For 20 mph London driving, you can probably get away with no bolts at all - my speculation . It all depends on your preference and risk aversion level. Ebay bolts are much cheaper. But the quality and grade-authenticity of those can't really be assured - they are new, however, and good enough for non-critical applications. Internet searching the bmw bolt numbers usually reveals their size and grade. You will know if it needs tracking when it starts to drive funny, and the steering wheel jerks in a way you don't like. Proper installation for the lollipops should be followed or they will expire very quickly.
  13. Thanks both. It looks like repair kits only are available from BMW, and that ball joint isn't replacable. I'll take it in on Monday, see what he says, but I think I'll get some of the £200 off Amazon and do it myself again. Will it need re-tracking? Do you guys always replace the steel undertray/brace screws as recommended by the manual?
  14. If you asked your garage to supply and fit them then 9/10 they would've just fit the cheapest ones available. I believe Febi are OEM manufacturers but there's others available too. Generally speaking the sport arms are a little "beefier" than the SE arms if you want to buy OEM/BMW parts.. Meyle HD ones though are beefier than sport arms so suitable for all E46's except M3 I believe. Over the years there's really only ever been one recommendation on this forum for the arms - Meyle HD. https://smile.amazon.co.uk/CONTROL-ARMS-WBONE-MEYLE-HD/dp/B0068MGN6O/ - £200 for the entire set on Amazon.
  15. Never tried them. Feel free to report back your experience: https://shop.bmw.co.uk/INTERSHOP/web/WFS/BMWUK-21972-Site/en_GB/-/GBP/ViewStandardCatalog-Browse?CatalogID=Teile_Welt-UK&CategoryDomainName=BMW-Teile_Welt-UK&CategoryName=StructureGroup_2170702732753069 If you have the part number, things may or may not be cheaper here after adding in the shipping: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/en/ To save on shipping, you can just call up your local official BMW dealer, then order and collect. Easiest if you know the part number. Alternatively, they will be able to find the parts for you once they have your car details. There is only one type of control arm for your car. If BMW's own parts site is slow, you can browse for part numbers here: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select Lastly, if there is something wrong with your car or because of bad installation, even with BMW parts, things will still break. So, it all depends on why your control arms are keep breaking.
  16. Earlier
  17. Thanks guys - I'm not sure what make they are. I'll ask. Anyone happen to know what OEM wishbones cost? I'm guessing it's a hell of a lot. And how about spec differences for a Sport version? Cheers.
  18. What brand did you fit? My OEM BMW ones are on 150k - still rock solid. Meyle HD control arms have a 5yr warranty and interchangeable ball joints. They're the only ones i'd consider fitting.
  19. Driven normally on normal roads, they should last 100k+ miles. Mine have 130k miles on them. If you weren't using BMW parts, maybe it's worth trying them out. The official dealer will be able to guarantee to supply you with the right parts with perfect fitment. I would consider BMW parts more heavy duty than the after market parts even if the latter are from OEM's.
  20. All, I had new front springs and front lower wishbones fitted in January 2019. I recently noticed a rattle at the front, and when I took it for MOT today, I asked the inspector to check. He immediately found the front inner ball joints on the wishbones were knackered. I had a look underneath too, and initially thought the nuts were loose, but sure enough it's the inner joints themselves that are completedy shagged. After 9000 miles. Surely that can't be right? I sopke to the garage that fitted them (who I trust to do a good job), and they said bring it in on monday to have a look, but since it's over 12 months since they were fitted, they are no longer under warranty. I do remember there was an issue finding the correct wishhbones, becasue they are for an Sport version. Strangely, I had no problem finding a selection of makes from Euro Spares just now, and I also previously replaced the originals myself with no supply issues back in 2012 when I first got the car. Any comments/advice on spec of the Sport wishbones, or how long they should last? Thanks.
  21. I wish I found this https://custom-writing.co.uk website earlier! This would have saved me so many nerves and tears. After having purchased several papers I used them as a reference for my other projects and you know what? Some of them were accepted from the first try!
  22. Thank you. I did search these codes and hopefully it’s motor issues on both the mirror and the windows. Will try a clean up first
  23. I suppose you could search for those kind of errors from the internet. But generally you will stand a better chance of finding other people reporting the same problems if you had INPA codes. Also INPA may be able to more specifically pinpointing the problem - this is only my speculation. At a guess from these errors, you have an electrical problem. I know nothing about diagnosing the electrics. If I were in your shoes, I would physically disconnect the mirrors one at a time and see if the problem partially goes away. This eliminates/confirms some of the wiring/circuit as the source of the problem. If both mirrors are disconnected and there is still a short circuit, then the problem is between the control unit and the mirror connectors.
  24. Hi all, I’m looking at upgrading my exhaust and was after some input. M54B30 with G power supercharger. I have some headers which I’m going to modify to clear the lower steering shaft. I’ve already fitted 328i manifolds to remove the cats. So I have to keep some sort of cat in the exhaust system, I was looking at fitting M3 sports 220 cell sports cats and M3 centre pipe. They should easily fit as my car (a coupe) is the same underneath. The centre section would mount to a custom back box in the normal place - for a 330ci (not an M3 box!!) The system is twin 2.5” stainless. Does anyone have any input regarding how this would help or hinder the performance Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Thank you for the vivid solution Alex. My E46 2002 facelift is giving me the same annoying rattling noise coming from the middle air vent when i accelerate above 1500 rpm in the 1st and 2nd gear. I will take it to the repairs. I will give fit back when it's done.
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...