Its fairly common on the early E46's. So i thought i'd make a sticky, so newbies can find it easier.

This is to do with the rear subframe cracking/splitting on the E46's.

BMW know of this problem, they even have documentation for it, but still sometimes deny its a manufacturing problem and try to get owners to cough up the money.

There are "fix kits" which are basically sheets that get welded to the subframe, but ideally you want it all replaced.

I've personally had this problem and BMW fixed it for free 100%. Apparently at a cost to them of £2500.

Here is the BMW PDF

Please post if you have had the problem, letting us know the details, if BMW paid etc..

Member Phantom Mark has written a DIY if you choose to fix this issue yourself: http://www.e46zone.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=14652

BMW Service Maintenance Checklist

BMW Engine Oil Service

• Change oil and oil filter while engine is at normal operating temperature.
• Change oil in rear axle while at normal operating temperature (only at 1st engine oil service).
• Reset Service Indicator
• Note: Do not reset Service indicator when additional oil changes (between the normal intervals) are requested by the customer.)
• BMW Oxygen Sensor Replacement Required at intervals of 100,000 miles

BMW Inspection I

Undercarriage

• Change engine oil and oil filter while engine is at normal operating temperature.
• Check transmission for leaks.
• Check rear axle for leaks.
• Visually check fuel tank, lines and connections for leaks
• Check condition, position and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
• Check power steering system for leaks
• Remove and install front and reat disc brake pads, check overall thickness. Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact pointsin calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs.
• Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods,front axle joints, steering linkage and joint disc.
• Check brake and clutch system connections and lines for leaks, damage and incorrect positioning.
• Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary.
• Check all tie pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary. Check condition of tires (outer surfaces [left/right]), tread wear and pattern; incase of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if requested (to beinvoiced separately).
• Note: If requested, rotate all four road wheels as instructed and rebalance (invoice separately).

Engine Compartment

• Read out diagnostic system.
• Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
• Note: Coolant must be replaced every 2 years (time interval begins fromvehicle's production date).
• Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill upand/or correct if necessary.
• Check air conditioner for operation.
• Reset Service Indicator.

Body/Electrical Equipment

• Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required.
• Perform battery load test.
• Checking lighting system, I.e., headlights, foglights, parking, back-up, license plate, interior (including map reading lights, glove box, flash-light, illuminated make-up mirrors, luggage compartment/area lights.
• Check insturment panel and dashboard illumination.
• Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
• Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, head-light dimmer and flasher switch.
• Check wipers and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.
• Check rear window washerlevel and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct.
• Check condition and function of safety belts.
• Oil hood, trunk/tailgate and door hinges. Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operations of all latches.
• Check central locking/double lock.
• Replace microfilter. Note: Reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions.
• Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
• Check rear view mirrors.
• Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations or accessories.
• Activate automatic roll-over protection system if equipped) via diagnostic link. Note: First remove hardtop/lower top.

Final Inspection

• Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission.

BMW Inspection II
Includes all items listed under Inspection I and the following checks and maintenance operations:

Engine Compartment

• Replace spark plugs.
• Replace intake air cleaner element.Note: Reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions.
• Check conditon of all drive belts.

Undercarriage

• Change ATF in automatic transmission while at normal operating temperature.
• Change oill in manual transmission while at normal operating temperature.
• Change oil in rear axle while at normal operating temperature.
• Check thickness of parking brake linings.
• Half-shafts: Check fo rleaks at flexible boots.
• Replace fuel filters. Recommended in California, required in all other states. Note: Reduce replacement interval if fuel contamination is encounteredor prevalent.
• Inspect entire body according to terms of rust perforation limited warranty (must be performed at least every two years).

At Every Second Inspection II:

• Change oil in manual transmission while at normal operating temperature.
• Check clutch disc for wear.

THIS IS A DIY TO THE GUIDE TOO..............TAKEN FROM THE INTERNET.


Hey Everyone. I just hit the 60K mark on my '01 325 XI, and I'm getting ready for my Inspection II. I have searched all over the forums to learn about Inspection II, and thought I'd share what I have learned with the bimmerfest crowd.

As most posts state, basically, Inspection II looks over your car to check misc. engine parts, check for leaks, lube up trunk, doors, hood, etc, oil wheel hub and other things inside the car. A good link for what is done can be found here:

http://www.bimmerzone.com/inspection.htm

Other than that, all they do is change your oil / oil filter, micro filter and air filter. They DO NOT change your fluids (Diff, Tranny, Brake, Coolant), spark plugs or fuel filter (Even though the fuel filter is supposedly a "lifetime" filter, I don't have many high quality gas stations near me, so I would prefer to change it every 50K or so).

My dealer is a really good one, so I usually bring it there, and for the full Inspection II, they want about $510.00. That seems way too much for what they're really doing, so I've decided to do most of the work myself. You can go to this website to get the part numbers you need:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/

Just click the link to enter the main part of the site, enter in your series car (mine is 3' E46), select the body (mine is sedan), select the model (mine is 325xi), select the region (mine is USA), the production date (mine is 05/2000), and then the engine type (M54). Click search for parts, and you can find out what all the OEM part numbers are for your vehicle. I find it to be a good resource.

To do the oil / oil filter, just go to your BMW dealership, and pay around $10.00 for the filter, o-ring and washer, and buy some of your preferred motor oil, and follow this good DIY:

http://www.my330i.com/lof.php#A

To do the Micro Filter, get part number 64319071935 from your store of choice ($30.40 at Circle BMW), and follow this good DIY:

http://www.bmw325i.net/maint_microfilter_replmt.shtml

For the Air Filter, I bought a K&N (Number 33-2231) for around $50.00 at my local auto parts store, and just use the reconditioning kit (Around $12.00) that you can get at any auto parts store every year. Follow this great DIY Link for that:

http://www.bmw325i.net/maint_air_filter_change.shtml

If you want to go overboard like me, you can get the fuel filter (PN 13327512019) and follow this DIY:

http://bimmerinfo.com/diy/fuel-filter/

Also, if you want to do the spark plugs (PN for the NGK plugs is BKR6EQUP), here's a great DIY from fellow 'fest member WAM:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65380

Of course, once this is all done, you can't forget to reset the inspection light, so here's a good link for that (I haven't tried this link yet, but I'm pretty sure this is how I did it the last time):

http://www.gendan.co.uk/articles.php?article=6#bmw


Now even though I'm doing all these things myself, I would still like to go to the dealer and have them look over the car for leaks, cracks in tubing, oil / lube everything up, etc. (The other things included in Inspection II). That kind of stuff would take me too long to do. My dealer said that they would do an Inspection II without parts for $240.00. That's reasonable in my eyes, just so I can have some peace of mind knowing I'm not overlooking something that an experienced eye could catch early on.

Overall, I try to do most things myself, and these are the collection of DIY pages I have gathered over the past year. From these web sites, or searching through the various forums, you shouldn't have any problem finding a good DIY for you.

NOTE: I would just like to make sure I give due credit to each respective DIY page owner, thanking them for their resources.

http://www.bimmerdiy.com/e46
http://www.bmw325i.net/
http://www.my330i.com/garage.php
http://m3.madrussian.net/diy.shtml


If anyone has any thoughts or corrections, please don't hesitate to PM or post. Thanks, and I hope I can save some people some trouble with this info. Later!!!

Hi all im trying to find on ebay the clips that go behind the strips above the glovebox & just above the headunit i need the plastic clips plus the metal pins that go onto them, the clips are like a pink colour, trying to find it on ebay but could, is it a trip to the dealer? its for my 323ci 1999.

The previous owner hasn't sent me through the owners book yet so wanted to ask a few questions if I may.


1) Yellow oil-can light on cold start for a few seconds - is this in need of a new sender for the oil level?
It's 8k miles away from the next service - which is an oil service - can this wait till then or not seeing as it'll need an oil change when I do it?

2) It's got the TV/Satnav system, the TV doesn't work - he said this is normal. Is there a fix and is it worth fixing? The satnav works fine. Although the screen goes blank every now and then.

3) The screen on the dash has an eject button, when I push it, it slides down an inch momentarily, then back up again. Is it not supposed to slide all the way down? When I hit 'mode' it has an option for cassette but I can't see a cassette slot lol.

4) While we're on the screen - it doesn't seem to have an option to simply display the radio station or CD I'm listening to. It defaults to the menu screen so I either have to go to satnat, computer or TV.

5) Do I have a Harman Kardon system? 4 speakers in the front, 4 in the back with a sub over the ski hatch in the boot. There's a Harman Kardon logo on each tweater on the doors. (so just the front 2 tweaters)

6) The cartridge in the boot for the hood - it has instructions to remove it, but I can't figure it out? It seems to suggest I pull the lever out, lift it up then push it down. According to the diagrams it suggests I go from 1 bag to 3 bag space should I need it.

hi there i purchesed a 2001 e46 330 ci m sport, im havin a few probs with driver side door, it will lock fine with key fob but when i press unlock the driver side does not unlock and i have to unlock the door manualy with key then when i open the door the window goes all the way down and when i shut the door the window goes all the way up, when driving the passenger door locks and the drivers stays unlocked and if i push the lock button inside the car the driver lock does not function, i have 2 things to mind after reading on net they are the door lock actuator or the gm5 module, can i have some more opinions please before i splash the cash lol

Hi all,

I have a chance to buy one of the Professional CD Players that are found on a few E46's - these are the Becker produced ones, that are supposed to be better quality than the normal Business CD units.

My question - is it just the CD player that is higher quality, or is the amp itself better? I have the amp is better and sound quality is much improved?? ALso, I currently have the radio sat nav with the small monochrome screen, which I have heard also has a higher quality amp than the normal Tape/CD Business headunits...can anyone verify this? Does anyone know if the professional cd player is even better quality than the radio sat nav??

Also, can someone confirm how I can check whether I have the 17pin or 40 pin connector with my system (comes with mk3 sat nav cd drive in boot, but apparently amp and tuner are built into only some radio sat nav, I've heard there are two types and I'm not sure how to check which I have???)

Links to the units for some info - http://www.e46zone.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=16613 old thread on the bmw professional cd player i found on e46zone

Radio sat nav system - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-E46-3-Series-Com...=item335c384a09 this one seems to indicate seperate amp

given there are two types of radio sat nav, is it possible only one type has the higher quality sound???

Right then I've finally decided to get on with fitting my springs, they have been in my garage for over 6 months but i have a couple of questions?

I don't think i will have the time to do both front and rear at the same time, the front of my car sits pretty high and the back is already low as the car are on sports springs already and with the 19" wheels its already low.

What i want to know is will i have any problem in running the car for a few days with Eibach Sport lines on the front (if i do tomorrow) and have the original sports springs on the back (until next weekend). I know i will need alignment done after but want to know if its ok to do what I'm asking?

Thanks
Scott

Pic of car how it sits right now..

[attachment=7847:P1000754aa.jpg]

Hi Everyone

A little help required.

I have started to get warning lights on my dashboard and i was wondering if someone may know whats wrong.

Over the past couple of days i have been getting 2 warning lights, its the ! in the triangle with the arrow round it (in the centre) and also the handbrake light (!) goes yellow when i release the handbrake.
They both come on together and they stay yellow. So when i set off the car beeps at me.

I don't get them every time i start up.
At first i just thought that i was starting the engine too soon and that they hadn't had chance to go off, but i am leaving it longer than normal and they are still appearing now and again.

According to the manual it has something to do with the DSC?

My brake fluid is at max so i know its not that.

Im hoping it may just be an blip and it will go away, but i have a feeling it wont LOL

Thanks for your help in advance
Cheers
Amanda

hi all, does anyone know how to get a damp smell from the air vents in the dash, it dont smell when ac on but turn it off and it smells like a weeks old washing, im guessing its meldew from condensation from ac.

Hey all...

1999, 323 SE 'loon...Started acting up a few weeks ago, i got in and started it up straight away, i normally wait till the fuel pump has finished priming but i was in a rush and didnt wait....it ran flat, like it was being strangled and then die-ing at every opportunity.
Stop, wait, restart and its fine...
Now i know youre all gonna say, just wait, but surely it shouldnt do this? It seems to do it more if its up to temperature, if thats relevant...I'm wondering if the fuel filter is gummed up....

hi there i purchesed a 2001 e46 330 ci m sport, im havin a few probs with driver side door, it will lock fine with key fob but when i press unlock the driver side does not unlock and i have to unlock the door manualy with key then when i open the door the window goes all the way down and when i shut the door the window goes all the way up, when driving the passenger door locks and the drivers stays unlocked and if i push the lock button inside the car the driver lock does not function, i have 2 things to mind after reading on net they are the door lock actuator or the gm5 module, can i have some more opinions please before i splash the cash lol

Hi there,

I would appreciate any ideas. Car is a 2004 330d sport touring auto with 54k. Had it from new. Recently the car on initially turning over, thr first two turns are very slow and then it will take between 4-10 turns of the engine to catch. Car runs fine once started. Thought it was battery but that has made no difference, changed fuel pump relay. Checked earth on battery. Fault code had a couple of control units (which may related to a key code problem I had a few months ago) and crankshaft sensor. Faults cleared but not reappeared. What is weird if you turn on the lights with the engine off for a minute then it seems slower to start. This happens hot and cold by the way.

Ideas appreciated!

Please excuse the lack of introduction with this being my first post.

Does anyone know if the later "rounder" post 2000 E46 steering wheel is a direct fit to an E46 that has the earlier E36 type steering wheel or are other parts needed like the SZL and steering collumn?

Thanks in advance.

Hi all have a 2004 convertible and want the following settings programed on my keys does anybody know if this can be done and how?
Follow me home lights
Folding/ Unfolding of electric mirrors (these are oem factory installed)

In my owners handbook there is a symbol by certain equipment that can be programed to the keys but my local BMW dealership has said that i can't program these features or anything on the keys?

Also does anyone have the full key memory options list?

Hi guys, bit of help here needed, today I've removed the swirl flaps, removal wasn't too difficult. Whilst I was at it I replaced the vacuum hoses as well.

Now the problem is - the car won't start, it tries to but just doesn't kick in.

I have checked all cables that I unplugged - they are all connected.
I have checked the power cables they are secured back on
I have plugged it into diagnotices (DIS) - it is stating it can't access the DDE and there is lack of voltage.

Any suggestions guys? I've removed the inlet manifold again to check all wires and none seem out of place.

Thanks in advance.

Hi there , i have recently brought a 328i with a small screen sat nav screen next to the radio and the cd changer and sat nav player in the boot.
The problem is that i do not have the disk. Where can i download one or get one from. Thanks

Hi there guys,i have a problem with my E46 320 coupe diesel 2005,it sometimes(not always) has flat spots,sluggish to pick up and the MPG has dropped from around close to 50mpg to around 39 MPG!

Basically this is what has been done so far,the vehicle has been chipped around 2 months ago,car has been great,no problems,but recently i'm having to change down gear to get up hills were i wasn't before,it hesitates sometimes when trying to accelerate hard and the MPG has dropped a lot.

So i have plugged it into a diagnostic machine,came up with NO FAULTS FOUND
I have disconnected the battery as i speak to see if it resets anything.

But the main question i have is that the problem seems to point at a MAF meter as this i've heard doesn't throw a code up,how do i go about testing the unit to see if its faulty,my diagnostic machine cannot test it so is there a manual way to test it,i know on Nissans you could put a OHM meter across certain terminals on the unit!
Also as the hesitation only happens sometimes,will a MAF just fail or break down slowly???

Any pointers would be fantastic as im a bit stuck with this.

Many thanks in advance

Hi guy's..
my 330ci coupe boot button above the rear no. plate has stopped working ..Still clicks when pressed ..but nothing happens..and the key is in the vertical position ??/
Is there a simple thing to check??
thanks

Hey been recently having a bit of trouble with my passenger side headlight, it starts up no problem but flickers and sometimes goes off by itself, I've tried swapping bulbs that's not the problem. Could this be down to the starter or ballast?

Cheers in advance

every now and then start car put it in reverse it cuts out only in reverse it happens

I'm going to have to replace both sets of bushes on my 330ci sport but i'm getting confused as which is the correct size to buy.
I'd like Powerflex but they come in 60mm & 66mm and measuring mine (outside diameter of the bush itself) they're 64mm with a caliper. Am i going to have to buy the carrier with a cheapo bush fitted then swap the bush for the powerflex? Has anyone fitted the powerflex into their 2003 330 m-sport? If so what size did you buy?

Thanks

hiya all, got a 2000 318 coupe that doesn't like starting.

if i go to start it it start's up but a second later it dies, it will only start if i keep my foot flat to the floor on the accelerator then start it up n give it a cupple of revs it will idle? any suggestion would help as its really startin to bug me now. thanks guys!

I'm one of the main 'use the search function' posters so I appologise for the following post if the information is already on here.

Due to lack of internet (I'm on my phone) it's seriously tough to search through everything properly so can someone help out please.

A) how do I go about putting angel eyes into my facelift coupe? From what I have read it's much more difficult than a pre-facelift. A DIY woul be great!

the option for facelift angel eyes seem to be reflector or xenon where as I'm fairly sure I have a profjector main beam but not xenon. Am I right? I can get a pic up if needed.

TIA

Hi all i need some help please.Last week i had my o/s/f wishbone changed as there was quite alot of play in the ball joint and there was a knocking noise coming from the front.Well £165 later i still have a bad knocking from the o/s/f which turns out to be my coilover. when its on the car it all feels tight but as soon as you take it off and strip it down there is loads of play in the strut.I got them from another forum member on here and they were brand new but as im not the person that originally purchased them i cant get any thing sorted under the garantee.ive rung the place they were bought from and he said that i would have to but another complete set which i just cant afford at the moment.Has anyone else had simular problems with there jom's?And does anyone have any for sale?

Thanks

Hi guys,

I have just been out to my 330ci convertible, started it up and it is missing really aggressively, literally shuddering on idle, I tried moving it and its much the same, kept it running for a few mins in the hope it would clear but it didnt, then when I pulled it back on the drive the Engine Management Light came on!!

Now I used the car last night and it was absolutely fine and has been for the 8 months I've had it!! Very occasionally in the cold and on first start up when its been stood for a while it has ran a tad lumpy but a quick rev sorted it out! I just assumed it was due to it being cold!

Any ideas as to what the problem could be? I know checking plugs and fuelling is a first step but before I start taking the engine covers off for a look I'd like a bit of a heads up first!

Any help will be grately appreciated.

Thanks!

Ash

Hi Guys,

I've noticed i've got an annoying zinging noise as i pull away from underneath, you can hear it in 1st and 2nd gears mainly, would i be right in saying it could be the CAT? and not of the pet veriety before anyone makes a comment!

Cheers
Scott

I'm the new owner of a brand new radiator, Fitted last night/this morning, wasn't as difficult as i was expecting, everything back to working order without any leaks.. I will do a write up as soon as i can. Anyone have any questions just ask, but for me it was fairly easy.

Hi, i've being having some trouble with my BMW Sat Nav unit. I recently bought the car so am not too familiar with the operations of the unit however after buying it i noticed that the sat nav was not updating its location is just fixed on central england, almost as if it is recieving no GPS signal. Furthermore im having difficulties with the CD changer. It detects when CDs are inserted however when i choose a CD no sound comes through. I've contacted the seller however hes being less than helpful and after a couple of messages said i should recent the system. Now im a little unsure how to do this and while finding reference to resetting the sat nav, no definitive answer on how to do it. I've tried disconnecting the battery for an hour but to no avail im afraid though i'll admit that was a bit of a shot in the dark. Does anyone have any ideas please on how to reset the system or alternative suggestions as to what the issue might be?

Hi all,

I have search for a DIY CCV/PCV/Oil separator replacement but cannot found any on the N42 engine.

Is there anyone that have change the CCV/PCV/Oil separator and the hoses, can you show me how to replace them on the N42 engines with pictures would be great?

REALOEM
Parts #1,2,3 & 4

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=11&fg=15

Thanks.