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  1. 1 point
    This is a DIY guide to show you how to install a paddle shift steering wheel into a steptronic E46. My car is a 2003 330ci M-Sport, so I can't guarantee that yours will be the same. I take no responsibility for any damage caused to you or or car as a result of this guide First, the theory. In a steptronic car, moving the stick to the left and knocking it up and down changes gear. This is done by a microswitch on each end of the switch. When the switch is pressed, a live signal is connected to earth and the car's gearbox ECU knows to change gear. This modification taps into this circuit. When the paddle is pressed, the very same signal is grounded via the steering wheel, giving the same effect. First, you'll need to go shopping. You'll obviously need a steering wheel. I got mine from an E46 M3 SMG. A CSL wheel will do just as well, but you won't have the multifunction buttons, though you should be able to transfer yours over if necessary. You'll also need to go shopping at your local dealer. Here's the list of part numbers and prices: 6x B61.13.0.006.663 - Bushing Contact - £1.10 each (I recommend getting 10 so you've got spares) 4x B61.13.0.006.664 - Pin Contact - £1.14 each (Get 10 again, just in case) 1x B61.31.8.379.091 - Steering Wheel Slip Ring - £76.91 1x B61.13.8.380.696 - 2 Pin plug- £0.57 1x B61.13.6.925.611 - 4 Pin plug - £0.74 1x B61.13.6.925.634 - 4 Pin Socket - £1.02 I got the 4 pin plugs above simply because I didn't feel happy about cutting/soldering the car's original wiring. This way the loom is revoveable should I ever need to take it out. Finally you'll need 2 metres of 2 core cable. I got some from Maplins for about 80p per metre. The first step in the conversion is to fabricate the new wiring loom. I started by putting the pins/bushings into the plug/socket housings. The shorter connections (the bushings) go into the plugs. The longer ones (pins) go into the socket. The pics below show the plugs and sockets in various states of construction. You'll need to cut the cables to about 6 cm on each. Shorter is better, but I needed something to work with because I don't trust my soldering! I needed to make sure that I got the wiring joined correctly, so I connected the 4 pin plug and 4 pin socket together, then connected the top wire from each together with solder & heatshrink. I then did the bottom wires in the same way. The middle two need to be joined in a similar way, but the new 2 core wire needs to be connected as well. I heatshrunk the whole lot together and wrapped the lot in insulation tape. Before you wrap it up, mark the other end of the long cable (I used masking tape) so you know which core connects to which pin on the plug. Now is the time to start taking the car apart. Start by disconnecting the battery negative lead. Tuck it out the way so it doesn't flick back and accidentally touch back to the terminal. If you don't do this, the airbag light will be triggered and you'll need it reset by a dealer/specialist. Grab the back of the gearstick gaiter and pull up. This will release the clips and it'll lift up. Disconnect the wiring plugs and remember where they went. Next, remove the two screws you've just exposed, and lift up the window switch surround. Disconnect the plugs for the switches and move the trim section out of the way. You should now see the purple plugs for the shifter. Next, remove the sunglasses holder under the aircon controls, by lifting the lid and pulling hard. You have to pull it harder than you think! You should now see two screws that were behind the sunglass holder, and two that were under the switch surround. Remove these and the whole plastic centre section comes out. Be careful here - the cigarette lighter cables will still be connected. Next, remove the steering wheel. The airbag is the tricky bit. Behind the wheel are two small holes. Poke a flat blade screwdriver from the side and push the spring on each side to release the airbag. Have a look at the new wheel and you'll see the spring retainers. It's fiddly but can be done with a little patience. Once the airbag is out, prise up the back of each plug to release the clips and remove the plugs from the airbag unit. Put the airbag to one side. Now, inside the wheel, remove the two plugs at the top. One is for the airbag, one for the multifunction computer. Next, get a 16mm socket and undo the bolt in the middle of the wheel. Remember the angle of the wheel to make sure the new one goes back the same way! Pull the wheel off and put to one side. On top the steering column undo the screw, and underneath, push in the pins on the two trim fasteners. THe lower half of the steering column will now come away. I removed the lower dash trim above the pedals at this point but I'm not sure you need to. Now is the best time to test fit the new wiring loom and cut it to length. You can then solder the remaining two bushing contacts to the loose end of the cable. Don't push them into the 2 pin plug housing yet. With the new steering wheel in your hand, place it on the new slip ring (not attached to the car yet) and plug the paddle plug into the slip ring socket. Get a multimeter and set it on continuity (or resistance if you don't have it). Put one probe on the metal backing of the steering wheel, and the other on one of the pins on the back of the slip ring (on the 2 pin socket). Hit the paddles and work out which paddle is connected to which pin by looking for a change in the mulitmeter readings. The back of the new slip ring is picture below. So, we now know which pin on the slip ring corresponds to which paddle. On the wiring plug by the gear stick, the blue wire is up (+) - trace this up the new loom and fit the 2 pin plug the correct way round so that the blue wire is connected to the (+) paddle. If you get this wrong, you can always switch the pins in the plug by lightly pressing on the clips that hold them in. Route the new loom through the centre console (this is why you removed the lighter socket and it's panel). Poke it up through the back of the steering column and zip tie it along the way to keep things neat. By the gear stick, disconnect the purple plugs, and insert the new loom in between, like the pic below, and tuck it down out the way. Time to replace the slip ring. Undo the 4 screws that secure the slip ring housing to the steering column and carefully remove the indicator stalks. Unplug the wiring for the slip ring, then replace with the new one, ensuring all plugs are back in, including the new one. Insert the indicators and screw the slip ring back in place. Time to fit the new wheel. There are three plugs now: Plug these into the slip ring, and do up the centre bolt - tightly! Make sure the wheel is in the same alignment as the old one now. I didn't, and had to straighten it later. Plug the airbag back in, push the clips ont he plugs down, and push the airbag unit back into place. Now you can reconnect the battery. At this point you should be able to start the car and test it out. Put it in drive, go left into sport mode and try the paddles. The stick should also still work. If this doesn't work, re-check the wiring plugs-you may have missed one. Once you're happy, start re-assembling all the interior trim (the same way you took it off), then go for a drive. I challenge you to not smile at your now arcade-machine style gearchange Sorry I didn't get more pics. I was too busy trying to get it done. If you've got any specific questions, reply or PM me. I'll be happy to talk you through it. Matt
  2. 1 point
    If the rears are definitely 9” they’re off an E38. ( 7 series ) so are the more aggressive fitment on an E46. If on stock suspension a 245 will likely be too wide. Most run a 225/40 IIRC......
  3. 1 point
    Depends on what model the originally came from. Style 32's off an E46 - standard MV1/2 tyres should go straight on.. Style 32's off the 7-series have much more aggressive offset so may need thinner tyres.
  4. 1 point
    Welcome along. I don't have the knowledge that you need but I suspect someone else will, albeit we are running thin on members and therefore members with knowledge. That said, those of us on the forum are a pleasant little group with core knowledge and it reminds me of when forums were new and everyone was pleasant and got on! I'm good for mechanical knowledge but not tyre fitment I'm afraid! Kirkynut
  5. 1 point
    kirkynut

    320Ci Windscreen Washer Issue

    Sorry I didn't reply before you found the filter. I need to make sure I get on here more often. I didn't know that bleach was corrosive to rubber. I've only been using a small drop, which when diluted in 5L, the size of the washer bottle, is nothing but is enough to kill the bacteria that causes the blockage of the filter. Since I've killed the bacteria and all the existing scum on the sides of the tank has been removed it has stayed clear. I wonder if there is something safe for rubber that can do the same job? Kirkynut
  6. 1 point
    CoupEdin

    Euro Alpine 2019 Road Trip

    Brilliant. On my list of places to go in my E46
  7. 1 point
    dunk1

    Euro Alpine 2019 Road Trip

    Looks like a great road trip, some fantastic photos, thanks for sharing
  8. 1 point
    mjn

    Euro Alpine 2019 Road Trip

    Day 9 - Heading For Home and German Petrol Stations So, the last day. A few hundred miles from Stuttgart to Calais via Luxembourg. But some of the more unusual items you can find at your German service station..... Super strength beer. Not cheap at over €10 a tin. Something for the ladies? Onto Luxembourg for refreshment and cheap diesel. Of course, i've left plenty of stuff out, like taking the wrong turnings, going in the wrong direction, the closed roads, the awful traffic jams, etc, but it's part of the fun. Thanks for reading!! Total driving time (including stops/fuel ups/food/etc) - 13 hours / 631 miles Total driving time over the 9 days (including stops/fuel ups/food/etc) - 73.75 hours / 2737 miles
  9. 1 point
    gchristofi

    Budget Track Day Car + - Version 2

    After a long pause, it's finally time to add to the original thread.... http://www.e46zone.com/forum/topic/62849-budget-track-day-car/ Version 2 of the now "Budget" track car is nearing completion after much research and planning. A lot of time was spent researching and pursuing the s54 upgrade route but for a number of reasons decided there was a better way to get what I wanted (Bar buying an M3, but I think I'll still be at half the cost of buying one of those and readying it for track) Upgrades are: - Active Autowerke level 2 Rotrex based supercharger with inter cooler and separate oil cooler - Cat back stainless exhaust system (sounds great, but only on ramp so far) - AEM wideband AFR fail safe gauge and Prosport 4 in 1 Oil pressure/Oil Temp/Boost gauge - M3 anti fuel surge cup fitted in petrol tank - Cooing system refresh with OEM radiator, pump, thermostat and hoses. - Safety devices rear cage - Welded 6 piece boot floor strengthening plates for rear sub frame (RACP) - Corbeau Club Sport drivers seat with 6 point ex FIA harness - Decided it was time for new rubber and this price (£230 full set!) was too good not to try some 265 35 18 Accelera Sport 651 R compound semi slicks... (Wonder how they'll compare to outgoing Federal 595-RSR). Worth a try and remember, more grip doesn't always mean more fun! 😀 - Once all tested and proven, there may be paint. That will have to wait for now as there's likely to be bumper / bonnet mods, arch extension / rolling etc required. As before, function over form is the plan. Couldn't do all this work without first finding out how the engine was running. Went for a pre upgrades dyno a while back. Good news is that the engine retains all the power it left the factory with (m54b30 has a reputation for this) . Dyno is attached. Will post back once get the chance to complete the build and dyno again. 👍 - E46 dyno pre sc.pdf
  10. 1 point
    So I managed to solve my issue if anyone comes across this problem in the future. Basically my turbo actuator was not moving due to a vacuum leak. Hence why it was sluggish up to 3000rpm and then fine and if you dropped the revs the turbo was not spinning fast enough so the engine would start choking. Replaced the vacuum lines from the actuator to the pressure regulator, from the regulator to the vacuum reservoir and from the reservoir to the the main vacuum line under the inlet manifold. 330d is back to it's old self.
  11. 1 point
    CoupEdin

    330Ci Project Topaz...* Bumper Fitted *

    I swapped my interior, not hard, won’t take long and you can pick up pieces cheap on the bay. I totally agree the seats are ridiculously heavy, but you’ve got a nice car there... go for it,
  12. 1 point
    Steffen

    E46 330d projectcar

    Finally the car was done and it all works! It has now been remaped to work with a manual transmission and not kill it in a short time 😉 But there is much more to get form the engine, nozzles and turbo are at a maximum of 70%. But the engine is getting hot, so I must look at a larger intercooler and an upgrade of the cooling system. Do any of you have any experience with it?
  13. 1 point
    kirkynut

    Gaz's Graphite Grey 330ci

    I would stick to genuine gaskets as they will last longer than the Eurocarparts ones and they end up cheaper when you only have to do the job once every 90k or so. You have to be a little careful when buying from Eurocarparts as some of the stuff they sell is complete crap. One thing I got from them that seems to be ok is a tensioner made by INA. However, I was then in my dealer after I bought it and asked how much it would have been from them and the tensioner and belt as a kit was the same price as just the tensioner from Eurocarparts! So try your dealer first for genuine! Kirkynut
  14. 1 point
    CoupEdin

    Gaz's Graphite Grey 330ci

    Ah that's how mines started - used some of that spray when it started lasting longer than 10 seconds. Now it's definitely needing doing...


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