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Showing content with the highest reputation since 26/01/21 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I've done this a couple of times in the past, let me go through it with you (I'm fairly well versed in E46 lighting now). It's plug and play for the most part, though it will require some coding and potentially some additional wiring for advanced functionality. The wiring looms are the same, plugs are the same. You have two ways of coding these in - either plug them in and disable the bulb checks using NCSExpert, PA Soft or NavCoder - of the OEM way of doing it is to add $522 to your Vehicle Order using NCS Expert, then setting the factory settings on the light switch module, you'll then have to disable dynamic headlight aim to re-enable the use of the adjustment dial on your light switch. If you purchase single Xenon headlamps (2.5" lens), that's all you need. If you purchase Bi-Xenon lights (3.0" lens), and want these to function in the way the manufacturer specified you'll need to run two new wires from the back of the headlight switch to the Xenon ballast on each headlight, otherwise the Bi-Xenon shutter will not work for full beams. Unfortunately you can't just run +12V to this to get them working, you need to run the additional wiring. The additional wiring is: Pin 2 on the LCM plug to the left ballast, pin 36 on the LCM plug to the right ballast. These connect to the centre pin of the 3 pin plug on the Bi-Xenon ballast on each headlamp. As for functionality - this means that when you pull the stalk towards you, the high beam halogen lights turn on (flash to pass). When you push the stalk away from you to activate main beam, the halogen high beam lights turn on and the solenoid in the Bi-Xenon opens, lowering the shield and increasing the light output of the Xenon. If you don't do the additional wiring, then flash to pass and main beam both just use the halogen H7 bulb. Washers and self levelling is a bit of a grey area. If you're doing it by the letter of the law, then yes, you absolutely need self levelling and headlamp washers installed. However - is it worth retrofitting? I don't think so - my system leaks constantly, so I've ended up disabling it completely. My car never had self levelling and I haven't retrofitted that either. I've had 5 MOT's now with disabled headlight washers and no self levelling and have passed all of them with no issue. Studying the MOT regs states: 4.1.6 Headlamp cleaning devices You must inspect vehicles first used on or after 1 September 2009 equipped with headlamp washers. ... Headlamp cleaning device: inoperative - Minor inoperative in the case of LED or gas discharge systems (HID) - Major The gov site also states for self levelling: Vehicles with high intensity discharge (HID) or LED dipped beam headlamps may be fitted with a suspension or headlamp self-levelling system. If these systems have been fitted, they must work. Reading those - any car registered before 2009 won't have the headlamp washers checked as part of the MOT - an E46 won't be post 2009 so I think it's fine. My car although it didn't come with HID/LED dipped beams from the factory, it also didn't come with self levelling, so I would think that the system can't be checked if it's not installed. If you have a height adjustment dial on the light switch, this must work. As for is it worth it - absolutely, 100%. The light output from Xenon headlamps is so much better than halogen - I wouldn't want to go back now. Let us know how it goes and if you need further assistance!
  2. 3 points

    Rich's Supercharged 325Ci MSport.

    Wow it was a long time ago i updated this! So a lot has happened, finished the underside restoration, fitted the supercharger, in the process of mapping on the dyno and BANG no 6 piston ended up with a nice hole! So....B30 engine conversion, ZF gearbox, 328 propshaft, clutches etc etc and we have a working car again 😂 Car is making around 350bhp without the water meth injection turned on so more power is definitely to be had when it goes on the dyno for vanos tuning and meth. Car feels properly fast, keeps you pushed back in the seat to the redline and the pops and bangs this thing makes puts a big smile on your face 😁 I shall let the pictures do the talking 😉 Rear end completed Old engine out. New engine cleaned, stripped and new gaskets, chains etc etc through out. Stock rotating assembly! Rear end completed. Custom rail spacers for the new bigger injectors. Disa delete and MAP sensor conversion so no more MAF sensor M52 headers widened and port matched to the head. Custom front section leading to a Bmw performance back box. New Android unit with Aldldroid app to display all engine and Afr readings in real time and can data log straight to the unit itself. And how it all looks.
  3. 3 points

    Parking sensors - alternative options

    Afternoon all! Thought i'd post some useful info I found. OEM parking sensors are still around £120 each, even from the forum sponsors (or maybe a little cheaper). Most people go with the £20 eBay sensors that are extremely hit-and-miss, but seemingly more miss than hit. Even if they work they normally wont work for long. OEM sensors should last ~10yrs. There used to be the option of buying the Land Rover branded sensors as BMW owned LR at the time so the Disco 3 used the E46 sensors. Those were Part No: YDB500301PMA. But I found that they were up around the £100ea range so there's no point considering them anymore. So after some digging I found out that Valeo manufacture the sensors for BMW/LR and their part number is 890058. Only place I found to get them is AutoDoc - but they're around the £55-65 price range (it varies from what i've seen, and remember that these will come in from Europe so worth noting post Brexit). I compared the sensors and they're 95% the same with the only difference being there's no BMW branding stamped on. The part numbers formed in the plastic are identical though. Hopefully this is useful to someone. Thanks
  4. 2 points
    E46 KDT

    Auto to manual

    Well, I went to him and dropped the car off and after 3 days I came to pick it up and I test drove it and it was horrible to drive. The gear changes were sooo bad and half the time it didn’t want to go into first. He had fitted my 318ci with A 330 clutch and flywheel which were way to heavy for my engine, he also changed my diff as I had a 4.44 diff from my old automatic so in 5th gear I was doing 30mph at 2k rpm! That meant my top speed was like 40mph hahah. He changed the diff to a 3.45 diff which fixed that problem. The biting point was really small and that made moving off extremely hard, also when I changed gear the whole dam car would shake soooo much and it felt like the back of the car was crashing. But it was like 11pm and my only way home was to take the car home since there were no trains running from 11pm back to London. After 3 weeks he was able to change the flywheel and clutch and he changed it to a 318 single mass flywheel and a 318 clutch. Whilst I was there, I thought may as well change the diff bushings to poly bushings since mine were on the way out and I also changed some of the shifter bushings and also the gearbox mounts. I also saw that the manual gearbox was leaking so I ask him to change it for another one and he did that as well. I then test drove it and it was really good, the clutch was soooo much lighter than before and it was 10 times easier to move of in and the gear changes felt sooo smooth. I was really happy with it. Also, when I went back to him, he did all those changes for free for me which I really appreciated, it made up for the bad 330 flywheel and clutch that he fitted. The only reason he didn’t do my car correctly the first time was because he said he had never done an m43 engine before, and that’s understandable cause the m43 is rare and nobody with an m43 gets a manual swap hahah. They swap the engine at the same time. But he’s done sooo many manual swaps he’s extremely good and for the price he charged its unbelievable! Id highly rate him. So even after all that trouble it was 100% worth it. I love to drive the car now and now in town I get 28mpg and on the auto id get 20mpg and on the motorway I now get 47 mpg were before on the automatic id get 40mpg. So, I have saved on fuel as well. Like weekly I’m saving like £6 in fuel. I also kept my old diff which I’m selling now and also my old automatic gearbox which I’m also selling.
  5. 1 point

    Rich's Supercharged 325Ci MSport.

    Wow this is epic Rich, hats off to you. Very nice job done there, so much love for this car 🤗
  6. 1 point

    Rich's Supercharged 325Ci MSport.

    That looks amazing!! Nicely done sir!
  7. 1 point
    that’s a good write up 👍🏻
  8. 1 point

    E46 330cd how much is it worth...?

    BMW are a joke when it comes to bodywork. Every job is rushed and they don't give a scheiße!
  9. 1 point

    E46 330cd how much is it worth...?

    Remind me not to buy a car off of you two
  10. 1 point
    Ok, Pin outs for the small HK sub amp 1: SUB in+ (from speaker) 2: HK sub amp remote switch on (like radio remote switch on crt). 3: Not Used 4: GND 5: +12v (either switched or direct) 6: SUB in- (from speaker) 7: Speed signal (not used if not using main HK Amp) 8: Not Used 9: Not Used 10: Not Used

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