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About Schumacher

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  1. Welcome back mate. I remember your Imola 'vert'. If I spot any decent examples, I'll let you know.
  2. If you already have one to sell (like the listing), there's plenty of profit. It was only a few years ago when they were selling for £12k.
  3. £30k+ for Puke Yellow? Stupidity knows no bounds. It proves you can literally sell anything and make a healthy profit.
  4. Schumacher


    Someone's obviously been in there before as BMW only use black fabric wrap. Hope you manage to fix the issue.
  5. Schumacher


    Some of the fuses are switched live. Have you tested the battery and are the fuses ok? Could be a faulty GM5 module (below fuse box) or the antenna diversity amplifier (nearside C-pillar).
  6. Hmm, interesting. Notice when you step back, the rattling noise can be heard from the front. Process of elimination would be best instead of forking out money on something that may not fix your problem(s). Easy to check a few things on the front of the engine... Tensioners, idlers, or another pulley. Just release the tension off the belt via the tensioner and spin everything by hand. Water pumps can also make a rattling sound when the bearing fails but usually they can sound ok from cold and worse when warm but I wouldn't rule it out. Again, just spin by hand. As yours is an auto, could also be the fan clutch (viscous coupling). You'll need a clutch tool/32mm spanner to remove the fan to access the belts. Where you're pointing the camera is where the DISA valve sits. It (the flap) can fail and rattle but that would be heard even when the engine is warm. Doesn't harm to test it though. Just pinch and lift up the connector (with the engine running). Also remove it (with the engine off) and test the flap. A Dead DISA/O-ring will give you lean codes and loss of torque. Do you have access to a code reader/software? Ideally INPA, DIS or PA Soft? VANOS sits on the front of the engine. GIF for you:
  7. Everything you've mentioned points to the VANOS. Loss of low-end torque <3k, increased fuel consumption, idle hiccups and sometimes bogging down. Do you have idle jolts on cold start up (more common on M52TU, though)?
  8. Could be quite a few things... Obstruction, motor, fluid etc. Sometimes the wiring can get damaged, so have a look under your rear seats. Do you have diagnostics software (INPA, PA Soft etc)? The fault codes will be stored and make your life easier. Try this (downloadable PDF guide).
  9. It's difficult to advise anything without hearing/seeing it in person. I doubt the chain needs replacing; it's more likely to be VANOS rattle. Have you replaced the seals? Any other issues apart from cold start rattle? Does it drive ok? p.s. why don't you upload to YouTube?
  10. Yes, avoid headaches and save time by having someone read the fault codes. @Brandnewcombineharvester, where are you based?
  11. What engine? 320d? I could list a few things but you need to have the codes read to pinpoint the problem. Try this... Press and hold the ASC/DSC button to disable the traction control and see if it makes a difference. Sometimes wheel speed sensors can cause your symptoms.
  12. Not sure where you read that info but on mine (54) and my dad's car (2000) they sit on the support bar. They're in similar locations on the E38 and E39. You can access them by removing the sidelights and fog lights and reach down/up. You'll need a universal joint to loosen/tighten the nut. Can't remember which side is high/low pitch but just disconnect the plugs to find out which of yours isn't working. 61338379711 is low pitch, 61338379712 is high. This is from the repair manual:
  13. Exactly! It's your car and YOU have the choice of which tyres you want fitted. Even if the E46 came with RFs (it didn't), you can still ditch [] them for regular tyres. Should've told him you changed your mind and wanted racing slicks instead. Haha.
  14. Has to be a spammer for resurrecting an 11-year-old thread.
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