Jim27

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About Jim27

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  1. Get your front wheels off and have them balanced but also checked for damage to the alloy wheel. Also check the tyres for any damage. After that try re-bedding in of your discs-pads - read this (proper guide is towards the end of the article) - http://powerbrake.co.uk/tech_info/tech_02_bedin.htm This all assumes of course that your calipers/pistons are sliding freely and the hub-disc-wheel faces are clean and flat when fitted.
  2. Whatever. Makes you wonder why anyone bothers to answer questions or contribute when there's always some snide comment waiting in the wings.
  3. If you want to know for sure pop the rear spring out and fit the wheel/tyre then use a jack to lift it up into the wheelarch. You'll easily see if you're going to foul any part of the wheel well or any other components then.
  4. Manual conversations

    I guess just start talking about your favourite kinds of manuals. Instruction manuals, owners manual.... I'm quite fond of operation manuals. But just talk about it - after all, that's all a conversation is at the end of the day
  5. E31 8 series M Parallels

    The 225/40 sidewall (front) will be 90mm deep. The 235/40 sidewall (rear) will be 94mm deep (so just 4mm difference the front). A 235/35 profile on the rear would give a sidewall of 82.25mm, which would be 7.75mm different to the front. So surely 235/40 rear will look closer to the 225/40 front than a 235/35 rear would? As for those rears being close, yeah that's what's got me sweating a bit. The car has some rust on the rear RHS arch so will be going in to get that sorted so I'm just wondering if it's worth asking the bodyshop to simply roll the rear arches or whether these wheels will need proper surgery (ie. sealant ground out, inner arch cut back and folded in, resealed, etc.) Because this is a daily driver I'd like to avoid relying on camber to fit the wheels if possible, as I'd prefer as much of the tyre to be in contact with the road as possible (always useful when someone cuts you up at 70mph and you have to hit the anchors!).
  6. Fronts: 8.5Jx18 Et13 on 225/40R18 tyres Rears: 9.5Jx18 ET25 on 235/40R18 tyres Sport coupe, currently on EOM Sport shocks with Eibach Pro (black) springs How do we think those will fit/run, and what work is needed to use it as a daily driver without any rubbing? I don't want to go any smaller than those tyre sizes either.
  7. Brake judder AGAIN FFS

    It was grubby/sticking slide pins. Seems to be a common issue on some setups. Every second or third oil service (I drop the oil every 7,500 miles) I pop the front wheels off and clean up the calipers as well as taking the slide pins out, cleaning and lubing them with LM grease. Problem solved.
  8. No Claims Discount mirroring

    Thanks Dan. I called Flux and the best quote you could provide me was something in the region of £1,300 TPFT. I eventually went with Privilege for £488 fully comp.
  9. Does anyone know of any insurer who will mirror your NCD that is already in use on another vehicle, insured with a different insurer? Am looking at getting a cheap 4x4 for winter but don't really want to pay through the nose for insurance. I've got 14 years NCD on my 330ci but no second car NCD. 4x4 insurance with zero NCD is quoting around £7-800, which is a bit much seeing how the 4x4 I was looking at only costs £800-1,000 in the first place! Looked at multicar/mirrored NCDs but my current insurer will only insure certain 4x4s (prestige/sports models), none of which are on my Buy List. Multicar with a new insurer would require me to move my E46 insurance to them, which is already paid up until Sept 2017. Same goes for any other insurer offering to mirror NCD - they want both policies with them before they give the discount. So (longshot) does anyone know of any insurer who will mirror existing NCD that is already in use on another vehicle that is insured elsewhere?
  10. Experience of E53 X5?

    That's kind of my concern, and also that even with time/effort put into an X5 it may not be as reliable as my well-fettled E46. Anyone I've asked has only had bad things to say about them, which is a bit of a gutter as I really do like them. The alternative is to buy a cheap 4x4 for when I need to over the rough-as-a-badger's-arse woodland road and keep the E46 for daily use, but I've been down the "2 cars" route before and it's always been a PITA with double insurance, double road tax, double MOTs, etc. so I was hoping to avoid it.
  11. Am finding myself tempted by an X5. But I've heard some folk talking about horrendous reliability and eye-watering repair costs though, which sort of puts me off. I've had my E46 for 4 years now, taking her from 80k at purchase to 140k. I've put a new clutch and DFM on her, as well as replacing all discs, pads, water pump, thermostat, rad and cooling system, oil filter housing gasket, and an oil/filter service every 7,500 miles. So basically all the stuff needed to hopefully see her to 200k. I'm a bit worried that I could end up letting a well-sorted one-of-a-kind E46 go (it'd be impossible now to find another one with this condition, spec, history and with a top-of-the-range LPG kit fitted from almost new) and potentially landing myself with a load of fresh problems, aggro and expense with an unknown X5. Anyone got any experience of these cars? Main reason for thinking about changing is a more civilised driving experience. I now regularly use a 2 mile-long country road which although tarmac'd is rutted, bumpy and has little dips everywhere. The E46 can only do 5-10mph on it, rattling my teeth out and leaving my sweating over the risk of cracked 19s. I toyed with the idea of putting 17s on it instead but I can't see that smidge of extra tyre sidewall making enough difference to the ride quality to iron out that sort of road surface. My plan was to get a 3.0 petrol pre-facelift (less complicated 65/35 4wd system rather than the more complicated Xdrive setup, and petrol being a much simpler engine to maintain/repair into high mileage than diesel) and remove the usual 19s to fit the base level 17x7.5 X5 wheels. I thought about keeping the E46 alongside the X5 but with an other half who doesn't drive I can't really justify having 2 cars. Been there before and one just ends up sitting on the drive unused, developing faults, so am keen to not go back to that. Thoughts/comments most welcome, as my head is a bit in the bin on this one. I suspect I may seriously regret getting rid of the E46 but the ride quality is doing my head in lol
  12. Annoying problem with brakes!!!!'

    Impossible to diagnose over the web as there are multiple possibilities. One truth though is that you should never expect a garage/mechanic to remove/clean your slide pins when they're doing a brake pad/disc replacement. You can be chasing your tail on these sorts of jobs, continually removing and refitting parts, so my advice is do it all just the once. Remove the wheels, pads, calipers and discs. Take sandpaper to the mating surface on the rear of the wheel to ensure it's clean. Check/clean the hub face and both faces of the discs. Remove the slide pins and clean them with a rotary steel wire brush, then lube them with LM (lithium) grease and refit. Check their rubber boots are intact (replace if not). Buy/borrow a DTI (dial out) gauge. They're only something like £20 and a worthwhile investment. Checking your brake disc for warping is dead simple but if you're unfamiliar with DTI guages then check out YouTube - there's plenty of instructional videos. Any runout in excess of 0.15mm is to much IMHO. It could be due to uneven friction material layup on the disc face though, so even if you have runout >0.15mm you can try the next bit. Reassemble the brake components and refit the wheels (add a thin smear of copper grease on the mating surface on the back of the wheel). Then go carry out the brake bedding-in procedure outlined here: https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=6446_6443 New brake discs require careful and gentle bedding in, so as to ensure an even layup of friction material on the disc face. Get it wrong and you'll get pulsing, juddering under braking, hot spots and eventually maybe even a warped disc. Also failing to get slow even heat into the new discs and then doing some high speed high heat stops can equally ruin your discs (thermal shock). Hopefully the above will fix your problems. I've been there and can tell you that trying one thing, reassembling and then finding it didn't fix it (so you have to dismantle things again and start over) gets very tiring VERY quickly, hence my advice to do everything in one go. Might be overkill but the certainty of fixing the problem on the first attempt is much, much higher doing it that way.
  13. Which xenon bulbs?

    Good point! I'll be having a look at it over the weekend to confirm/figure out what's what....
  14. Which xenon bulbs?

    Evening chaps. The passenger side xenon headlight telltale has come up on the dash. Checked and no sidelight although dim & dipped is still working fine. They're genuine OEM xenons. Had a quick look on ECP and they have a number of xenon bulbs listed. No idea whether one is better than the other, or if there's anywhere else I should looking/buying them from? Will a different brand look unbalanced/different alongside the remaining OEM xenon bulb still on the drivers side? Comments/advice much appreciated
  15. Whining noise proportional to RPM

    Sounds like a pulley. Water pumps are relatively cheap but you get what you pay for. The OEM unit on mine lasted 10 years/80k then I took it to my local BMW Indy here in Horwich who fitted a new one and charged me the same as a brand new BMW one to supply and fit it. It lasted 12k/1 year (and they told me to f**k off when I pointed out that was unacceptable). Since then I buy BMW stat and pump but do them myself. Take the the belt off and spin the pulleys by hand. That'll tell you which is making the noise.