Nimraynn
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Posts posted by Nimraynn
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Yeah, it was more an "I recommend you don't use this one" type recommendation
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4 minutes ago, Dave330 said:
Interesting. What made you choose them? How badly has it deteriorated?
A mate worked there, so it was a bit of mates rates. I'd also seen the work he'd done on his own car and it was decent.
The work I had done was a full respray, including some parts that were different colours as they'd been fitted from another car (MSport, bumpers, side skirts, etc). Originally they were silver.
The side skirts you can see on the inside edge have started to wear away back to silver. It's not terrible and not hugely noticeable, but I've never had any paint taken off here quite the way this is getting beaten. Seems really thin pain, hardly protected at all.
The front bumper is chipped to hell. I've probably done 25k since the respray, but there are less stone chips on my 120k original bumper. The ones on this are massive and they've just gone straight through the paint. On the corners where the bumper meet the wings, they never have quite fitted properly, but after time, the paint has started to peel away from the bumper on these corners. Especially on the passenger side. Some has now chipped away and you can see the original silver below which doesn't look like it was even prepped. I can understand there still being some silver, but it doesn't even look keyed.
The bonnet has taken a bit of a beating as well.
Overall, I think it's just the paint is too thin so it doesn't resist much at all. Partly my fault, there's some bird s**t marks as well, but they weren't left long before I wiped them off and they still burnt. I've left them much longer on factory paints and its not caused a problem.
It's this and a experience with another mechanic that has put me off the whole idea of "mates rates". I've stopped giving my car to mates to fix up as if the quality is bad, you feel bad going back and telling them their work is s**t. I don't plan on keeping the car long enough to justify getting somewhere else to redo the work, although I might get the front bumper blown over as that is spectacularly bad. I think I paid £150 for a front bumper on my last car so I don't mind that as a quick fix.
It looked top the day I picked it up, mind you!
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Hi all,
Does anyone have a space cable block for the aux-in and/or the iPod connectors for an Andrive AN46-3?
I've got one or two places left to look, but I can't find mine anywhere! Didn't plug them in as I didn't need them. Now I've got an iPod Classic, I can't find the damn things!
Cheers
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I did use one sort of... but I didn't know what I was doing and I didn't really care so I smashed it up to get the bit I wanted [emoji38]
Obviously want to be more careful with the one I've taken off as that's the bit I want to keep. Just want to make sure it's meant to come off and the best way of doing it.
Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk
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Hi guys
Question for you. I've got a prefacelift coupe and one of the numberplate light disintegrated on me. I had a spare facelift boot handle but as you know these are longer and don't fit.
What I did find though was that the grey plastic bit that houses the button and lights is actually the same size and after smashing the s**t out of it to get the painted bit off, it does fit my prefacelift bootlid.
So my question is.. is it possible to split the painted bit off the boot handle without breaking it? I think I snapped evert single clip on the facelift one but I really didn't care about it so I just ripped. If I can get the painted bit off the prefacelift one, will this for the facelift middle bit? Or are the clips in different places?
It's looking like this for the sake of the MOT
Cheers,
Mike
Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk
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Welcome to the site
As for the AC being hot all the time, this might seem a silly question but people do miss it quite often. In the middle of the central vents, there is a dial that goes from three red dots to three blue dots. What is this currently set to? If it's set to three red dots, it'll be hot all the time. Great in winter, not so great in summer!
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Thanks for the advice. Got it into a garage on Saturday morning and they agreed it was the wheel bearing. The guy also found that the bushes on the suspension arm were worn on both sides, but was worse on the side where the bearing had gone. He said you shouldn't be able to move it by hand at all, even with some effort, but all he had to do was prod it and it moved.
All sorted now though and it's made a massive difference.
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I thought this was normal. The battery light will come on when you start the ignition, then it should go out again when the engine is started and the charging circuit starts working, which is usually 1-2 seconds after the engine starts.
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Good to know. I noticed one of mine has gone walkies as well.
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Fair enough. I'll ask a few local garages.
Disc plate was something I was going to check as well while I was checking the wheels. The wheel bearing noise I got on my Astra was constant rather than... I dunno if intermittent is the right word... rhythmic maybe?
Cheers. Noise is driving me insane now
Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk
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Ok cheers i'll have a look at the weekend and see. I had asked a mate and he wasn't sure. He suggested wheel bearing but thought it might be something else after actually hearing it.
Are wheel bearings expensive and/or hard to do on these?
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Hi,
I've had this on my car for a while now but can't work out what it is... It's hard to describe, but I'm getting like a rubbing vibrating noise coming from what I'm pretty sure is the front passenger side wheel, and passengers agree. It's noticeable from 25mph upwards and it seems to get louder until about 40mph. At this point, it doesn't get any louder but it started to get faster as you drive faster. Not engine related as I've hit 70mph and dumped it in neutral and the noise remains. What I have noticed is that turning left can mute it or at least make it less obvious. Turning right has no effect and it's most noticeable in a straight line.
This bit may or may not be related... but my front brakes needed replacing. A year or two ago I had a seized calliper which got replaced so we wondered if it was just a warped disc rubbing... Doesn't appear to have been that but I don't know if it is braking related... I replaced the front brake pads but couldn't do the discs at the same time. Got the discs replaced by a garage a few weeks later and he said the pads were fine after being used with the old discs.
Now, at the same time, I had some wheel problems. My rear tyres were balding and showing canvas, so at the same time as I replaced the brake pads, I took the rear wheels off (18" 9J 255/35). Put the front wheels (18" 8J 225/40) on the rear, and put a pair of spare wheels on the front (17" 245/55 I think.. whatever the standard tyre size is, plus 15mm spacers). This was a temporary setup while I gathered the funds the purchase new tyres for the 18" 9J's.
Now, I can't remember 100% certain, but I'm sure the noise pretty much went away at this point. Much quieter. On the day I got the garage to fit the new front brake discs, I had put the wheels back to how they were with the new tyres on the rear. I literally fitted the wheels, then straight away drove it 2 minutes round the corner to get the discs on. I've then noticed a day or two later that the noise is back and it actually seems a little bit louder. As I did both jobs at the same time, I'm now unsure whether it was the wheels/tyres or the brakes that have caused the noise to come back.
A few weeks after the discs were fitted, I've also noticed taht above 50mph, I now get steering wheel shake/wobble when I hit the brakes.... so if I'm doing 70mph on the motorway, then stamp on the middle pedal, the wheel shakes until I'm below 50mph.
I'm not sure if the wheels/brakes is irrelevant, or whether they're related. I'm thinking the wheels are related. I'm also not sure whether the brake wobble is related to this noise, or whether this is yet another problem that may have occured since the brakes have been replaced.
It's not brilliant, but I chucked my phone on the dashboard and recorded a video as I was driving up a motorway exit slip, round the roundabout and then down a dual carriageway. You can hear the noise although it's a bit muffled.
Does anyone recognise this noise and/or have any ideas based on my description?
My next test I think is to switch the wheels back round to see what effect this has on the noise. If I put the fronts on the rear again and then the 17's up front, see if the noise goes. If it does, I'll put the 18 rears back on the rear and see if it comes back. Maybe if it seems like the front wheels make a difference, switch them round and see if the noise changes side. Just wanted to see if anyone had any ideas before I started doing irrelevant tests
Cheers,
Mike
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I'll renew it when it comes to it, but I got an e-mail from PayPal this morning stating my automatic payment for subscription had been cancelled. Any particular reason?
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10 hours ago, Lovin_it said:
Cheers for the info
i was under the impression that 9j et40 with 255 would not rub.
More research needed.
I run 18" 9J ET40 rear wheels with 255/35 tyres on my E46 coupe, lowered on coilovers. No rubbing issues at all, although they'll definitely rub if I add any spacers. I tried adding 15mm spacers to a set of 18" 8J ET35 wheels on the rear with 225/40 tyres and that was gonna rub.
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Just now, ibrahimx2001 said:
hello buddy
how was HOW?
I missed it this year, had a family emergency to attend to
Not too bad. Too much weed being smoked around, but still a good show as always. Spirits dampened a little bit by the Brussels attacks yesterday though. Our hotel was only a 2 minute walk from the European Commission, so only 5-6 minutes away from Maelbeek station
Hope all is well with you & family
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Morning stranger.
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Cheers. I picked them up online from CM Wheels.
So I'm a bit happier with the car now... but still not overly happy. Still need to get the handbrake and number plate light sorted, plus a few other non-critical problems. Oddly the airbag light has been on since I had it in the bodyshop, but after giving the interior a thorough clean out on Friday, it has mysteriously turned itself off. I thought you had to manually reset the airbag light on these cars with a proper diagnostic tool, but it's fixed itself. I think I might've knocked a loose plug with the hoover or something. Only explanation I can think of.
It made it to Anderlecht and back over the weekend for Heaven on Wheels Tuningday 13 without anything else breaking or falling off. Hopefully it stays like that for a while
- The_Judge_ and Ruesta
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Well after a bit of a rage this morning, I got my front brake discs replaced and they're noticeably better performing than the old ones.
Also swapped the wheels around this morning. Been running style 44's up front with my 8J 18" CSL reps up back for a while due to tyre wear and financials. Got new tyres on the 9J 18" CSL reps last weekend, just needed to do a bit of switchy switchy to put everything in the right place. After having snapped two wheel bolts already, I was very pissed off when I found that the garage who helped me remove one of the snapped wheel bolts had overtightened two of the bolts so they were a missing to get off. One of them was one of the crap quality bolts too so I thought I was gonna snap it. Thankfully no more snappers and I've put better bolts in now.
I've removed the RGB angel eyes as they were playing up. Since having the alternator replaced, they flicker massively and none of the colours match the remote. If I pick red on the remote, I get green. If I pick green, I get blue. If I pick blue I sort of get green. Checked all the cables were connected and everything seems fine... but I've had a few LEDs dying on them too so I've just binned them. I do wonder though if it's related to a fault with the first replacement alternator. The other guy that works in the garage kindly told me this morning that the "fault" with the alternator that meant it took another day or two was that it caught fire! Thanks for withholding that bit of information until now!!!
I've now siliconed a new indicator in place of the one that fell out taking the mountings with it. Hopefully it'll stick alright. It's a bit tight and awkward to get to. Will find out in the morning I guess.
As I'm off to Belgium for a car show on Saturday morning, I've been giving it some deserved TLC. Started by detailing the interior, which I've not yet actually finished. I ran out of light and energy, so I've left it with about 1/3 of the interior left to do. While I was doing this, I did some tweaking of the sub & amp positioning. Previously, the speaker wires were a bit of a mess running up to the amp. As I've now got some spare, I used a length of black split conduit to hide the wiring away. I'd been using this for protecting some of the wiring for the angel eyes in the engine bay but no longer required so I recycled it
Now looks like this. Amazing what a little bit of tidy black plastic can do.
So tomorrow I need to finish detailing the interior, then give the exterior a proper detailing as well...
I'm slightly happier with it now that I'm beginning to get a few things sorted. I blame my girlfriend for all these problems. We met 8 months ago and she's been getting all the love... so the car is getting its own back. "I thought you loved me! LOVE MEEE!!!"
And for anyone interested, here is an old vs new comparison of the number plate bulbs
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Had a thought earlier, put it on my progress thread instead of this one as I wasn't paying attention
Are the number plate light units removeable from the handle? If so, are the pre-facelift and facelift coupe items interchangeable? I've got a facelift boot lid sitting in my bedroom doing nothing. I know the handles won't switch as the facelift is wider but wondering if the numberplate light units are the same.
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Just a thought. Are the number plate units removeable? If so, are they the same on a pre-facelift and facelift coupe? I've got a facelift boot lid sitting in my bedroom which I'm pretty sure has the number plate light units. I know the whole handle won't fit, but if I can remove the lights from it, that might be a quick fix if they'll fit.
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Nothing left of the corroded one to actually clean up. It broke apart as I removed the old bulb
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The terminal on the right hand side has completely disintegrated. There isn't enough of it left to sand anything away.
Andrive Chat
in I.C.E (E46)
Posted
Before I pull it out just to test it, is it possible to use a standard iPod USB cable with the Andrive AN46-3's iPod interface?
I didn't connect the iPod cable that came with the unit when I bought it as I didn't own an iPod. I've recently bought an iPod Classic and I can't find any of my spare cables anywhere. They've disappeared into thin air. Wonder if as an alternative, I can just plug the USB cable into a spare USB port and use it that way?
If not, is there anywhere I can buy a cable? I might just finally say f**k it and bin the piece of s**t. This headunit has been nothing but trouble and I hugely regret buying it.