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dooge

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About dooge

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/01/1986

Profile Information

  • Current Car
    BMW E46 330CD M sport
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Plymouth

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  1. dooge

    Sold - please delete

    Hi all, my circumstances are changing (paycut, shorter commute and just got engaged!) so my Imola Red 330cd manual M sport is up for sale. This has been an ongoing project and has not been dissapointing. Full advert is on eBay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142363992558?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Car is based in Plymouth, Devon. Doug
  2. Check out GBW Tuning, he seems to have quite a cult following in the BMW world (himself working on a supercharged 320d) and is based in Wales.
  3. No buddy, I havent. From what I understand on a coupe you can have a 15mm wide spacer on the original MV2 on the rear with no issues, though not sure if tyres or camber needs adjusting for that to happen. With that info, 13mm better offset should clear on a 255 on the rear. For saloons and tourers it will be less. Triggerfish on here has some 216's for sale in the Parts - Generic section and it shows them fitted to a lowered saloon with 255's. Plus, MV3's are a common wheel to go for e46s and they have the same offsets as the 216's so shouldnt be a problem.
  4. I am pretty sure E63 6 series electric seats fit (plug and play too) and are similar to E46 in shape and size but with bolster adjustment like E46 M3 seats.
  5. A square setup will possibly handle a bit better, bigger rears ensure more understeer than oversteer. I'm in the same boat, wondering what to replace the MV2s with. I like the CSL look, but I think they need to be 19" and as above, need to either have an aggressive offset or be more than 8.5j. The other alloy I am looking at is genuine 216s from the e90. Lighter on the back than MV2s, same staggered sizes as MV2s and 13mm better offset so no spacers needed. Without arch work, more camber or narrower tyres, you probably wouldnt fit much more than ET30 on an 8.5j on rear.
  6. What you will find is that the pressures will fluctuate when driving, as mentioned. Ive found up to 4 PSI difference in summer heat. Suspension refreshment for me is the biggest thing you can do on e46s and will make a world of difference. When I bought my car at 93k all shocks and bushes were knackered. I have since replaced all shocks with Bilstein B4s (I highly recommend them!), new front genuine topmounts, rear wishbone and ARB bushes, the latter two with Strongflex polybushs. I chose these as they are 80sha which is are roughly the same as new rubber. Powerflex are 90 I believe. I have also fitted new rear bumpstops and upgraded rear topmounts with reinforcement plates as these are a weak part. One of the biggest surprises was being told that my steering rack had a small leak and a little play so it was changed for a reconditioned unit, new front tyres and full tracking. Its made a BIG difference to avoiding tramlining and stability but my old tyres were knackered. Still to do is complete rear polybushs, the trailing arm bush being the main contender for wearing badly. Once this is done I will put new rear tyres on and once again get the tracking done. I haven't considered the diff bushes yet but a friend who has done it says its made a difference. Eibach Pro Springs are an upgrade I have considered to have a slight drop. Its worth bearing in mind that handling will change as you will get a camber increase with lowering springs.
  7. Chris Haynes was running 400bhp and over 700 ft lb in a manual 6 speed box. They are sometimes used as alternative to Jap gearboxes for drifting machines. The only thing I can see this being is removing the ZF auto box in an E46 and swapping it with either an auto or manual e90 Getrag box.
  8. I hate to say it but that may be a dealer perk. My local BMW dealer (Ocean) have told me that to test if my genuine thermostat, bought 6 months ago, is faulty I have to stump up £99 for a diagnostic. If it turns out to be faulty, they will refund me and replace the part. Of course, I told them no thanks. I have deleted the entire EGR with a custom pipe as well as modified a few other bits so their answer to the fault would always be 'The EGR thermostat is missing.' I sound quite jaded, but I have had similar problems claiming on warranty for a failed seal on a rear coupe LED light cluster which was 9 months old. Their warranty, as far as I am concerned, is frankly dogpoo. Ive had a cheap stat, it used to get to 86 real quickly but never further unless you were pushing it. It eventually failed and when it would only get to 80 I changed it for a genuine BMW one. Bled it several times but no joy. Even got a local indi garage to bleed it, exactly the same. It will get to 90 but only after driving that makes the engine work a bit, I.E. anything over 50 or going uphill. Not happy but can't keep forking out for s**te overpriced parts. Next time Ill look at Meyle or similar, at least I can take it back in and they may listen if its faulty.
  9. The Youtube vid you have posted, I think its the exhaust flexi joint by the primary cat which is prone to splitting. It causes a cooing noise. That, or it could be a modified exhaust.
  10. Hi Wolf, what symptoms were you getting? I haven't noticed anything obvious except for a little bit of low down torque. I have the error codes as well.
  11. A combination of primary decat and backbox delete will see the biggest difference in sound. I currently have just the middle box (resonator) and it doesnt sound bad but is droany between 2200k and 2800k RPM. I also hate the cooing noise. Mine is being changed to OEM backbox only, straight through for the rest. I have done a lot of youtubing and listening to other peoples cars. I want something that sounds refined but free's up most power without sounding chavvy. This seems to be the best way of getting some turbo whistle, freeing up some power and making it sound fruity. I would also seriously consider removing the primary cat. A small adjustment on the map may be suitable but lots run them without with no ill effects. It will reduce heatsoak to the turbo and allow the car to pick up quicker.
  12. The rear trailing arm bushes are known for wearing out. Someone else mentioned it above, I believe it causes issues. Ultimately, theres only limited things that can be causing the issue. If tyres pressures are checked, all suspension components are up to scratch and alignment is within tolerance a sticky caliper could cause issues. Ive noticed that since getting my tracking done (a quick one until I get the rest of the suspension sorted) my juddering whilst braking also improved massively. Unfortunately, a weekend of using the car on really poor quality twisty roads has pushed the alignment back out. I still maintain that your rear camber is out and rear toe. Toe is basically only there to make the car track in a straight line, especially at speed. If its not straight, the car wont track true no matter how well the front is set up.
  13. From what I understand, there is a number of limiting factors on the 184. You wont see more than 235 on stock fuel pump, injectors or turbo, even if you managed to code on a 204 ecu. A 204 wont see 300 without a bigger turbo anyway, max they will top out is 285.
  14. Its not as simple as that. The 184 is a different beast to the 204. Different engine, different turbo, different injectors and spray angle, different fuel pump, etc. I dont know if the ECU even has the same physical connection between them. Have you had it on a dyno to see what the car has made and the power curve?
  15. The rear camber is not the same so maybe that needs to be looked into and rear toe is quite a lot which is probably to counteract the bump steer but it shouldnt make it pull badly. Tyre pressure up to standard? When mine is even a few PSI lower I can tell as it pulls all over the road. Also, when you replace certain bits it shows up the wear in the rest of the suspension. Look at changing the rear suspension bushes and then try again. If it helps, I am on the same line. I've replace front and rear shocks with Bilstein B4's, front topmounts with Lemforder items, rear wishbone and front ARB bushes with Polybushs. I need to change one of the rear trailing arms as the ball joint has gone, I will change all the rear suspension bushes at the same time. Because these are rear wheel drive they are tracked from the rear forwards.
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