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DJ Syxx

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About DJ Syxx

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  • Current Car
    Stahl Grau M3
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  1. Been a long while since I've been here so thought I'd say hello too. Good to hear the forum still being here. Been here now for over 11 years, where has the time gone!
  2. In theory should be no reason why it wouldn't clear as you won't have the steering column in the way. I know on the M3's the euro headers that are on RHD cars fit LHD. Maybe worth checking realoem.com and cross referencing the part numbers with a LHD and RHD car. BTW nice E46, loving the colour and welcome to the forum.
  3. Looks good mate, don't see many clean tourers nowadays. Like the yellow main beams
  4. For lowering springs Sportlines are the best bet. Wheel came out nice, Jack is damn good.
  5. Thanks mate far from mint now but got some plans this year. I'm in NW. You probably might be able to at that price as the one on the M3 is specific and they charge a bomb now. Last I checked it was £220. If its fairly cheap for your 330 grab it while you can as it seems a lot of parts in general are going up.
  6. They charged me £100 to rebuild. Took less than an hour too.
  7. That's the ones you need. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-x-Jet-Black-Nylon-Plastic-SPACERS-Standoff-Washer-M2-M3-M4-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12/302019421824?var=600817062684&hash=item4651c2a680:m:mHlsiUJSKp3eLtxPNDpk12A I bought the M6 size and 15mm length. Think it was a 30mm bolt and nut to hold in place.
  8. So onto starting the jobs. If you plan on doing a power steering overhaul, be warned. Its a very messy job and will require a little patience as you will have fluid coming out of every orifice you can think of. As the steering rack and lower joint was to be removed, straighten your wheel first and then lock the steering wheel. Do not under any cirumstance unlock it and move it about so you can get make life easy for removing certain bolts as you will be in s**t creek when it comes to making sure everything is straight. First you need to remove the undertray which is 7mm bolts dotted around easy to do. Once that is done you now need to remove the aluminium chassis plate taking off all 12 bolts. You need a 17mm socket for these. 982 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Now onto the outer track/tie rod and get a 16mm socket on the nut and crack it open. The nut is a one time use only so with your new rods, it will come with a new nut. I found it was easy to undo for a bit and then gave some resistance so you will need a longer bar so you can give it more torque to remove. 983 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Once its off you will need to use a ball joint seperator tool to free it from the hub or a pickle fork and hammer it out. Once both ends are free you now need to start extracting power steering fluid from the resovoir. To access it I had to remove my airbox and then it was a case of using my fluid extractor. You can use a suction baster etc. 984 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Now back under the car as you can see both sides of the rack is weepy fluid which points to the seals in the rack have failed. 985 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 986 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Took the one time use oetiker clips off 987 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Used my special tool to clamp and remove the inner tie rod from the rack: 988 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Pictured is the steering coupler. You need a E10 socket to remove and there is two. The one below you will need an E10 wrench as you won't get a ratchet on there. 989 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr If you're removing the control arms, the middle nut is a 22mm and is awkward to remove with a ratchet. I found it was easier to use the double spanner method to crack them open so patience is needed to remove. 990 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 991 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr The rack is bolted through the subframe using a 15 and 16mm nut and bolt and are simple to remove: 992 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr You then need to remove the lines off the rack, so starting with the banjo bolts which are 22mm and 19mm. The banjo bolts have a crush washer either side so you will need new ones. You will need a pan to catch the fluid so will be a little waiting game: 993 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 994 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr The lines have a 10mm bolt that connects to the rack so you will need to remove that: 995 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Once that's done the rack is out: 996 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr One of the hoses is a high pressure hose and that goes to the power steering pump so after reading up about owners having to replace them or rebuilding due to leakage I decided to get it refurbed. So simply remove the 22mm banjo bolt from the pump. Again be careful as fluid will seep out: 997 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Rack and steering coupler removed: 998 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr High pressure hose removed and ready for rebuilding: 999 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Looking a little bare. I dropped the antiroll bar from the brackets as it got in the way: 1000 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr So with the overhaul I decided to remove the pump. It was in working order but figured it would save time later on from having to deal with it later. I also wanted the original pump refurbed rather than buying an exchange unit just for OCD more than anything. 1001 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 1002 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 1003 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr So while the rack and pump was sent off for rebuilding. I got on with other things that needed doing. One of the things I noticed was when replacing my drive belts two years back, the deflection pulley was making a skateboard sound when you spun it so I got on with removing it IIRC is a 16mm bolt: 1004 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Removed: 1005 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr As I was working in the same area I removed the old adjusting pulley as I found that was exhibiting similar symptoms. To remove you need a Hex H8 male socket bit: 1006 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Removed: 1007 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr So in with the new and bought genuine ones from BMW which are INA branded: 1008 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 1009 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Note the deflection pulley has a notch and is off centre so you simply fit it back in the same way: 1010 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 1011 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr So this left me with removing the final lines and power steering resoirvoir. You have a hose connecting from the resoirvoir to the cooling coil. Word of warning these are a nightmare to remove as they use a quick disconnect fitting. The tool to remove it is one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009VI9P62/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=pda0e-21 So I got the first one off: 1012 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Unfortunately the second one which is one of the power steering lines to the coil did not want to come off with the tool. It was literally siezed on and no amount of WD40 helped with freeing it up. So I ended up having to carefully cut the shell of the clip using a mini dremel. As you will see there was no way it could be removed as corrosion had set in. 1013 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Finally free: 1014 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Old parts chucked away and new parts on order: 1015 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr My rack came back from Western Power Steering all rebuilt and should last for a long while with no issues: 1016 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr The rebuilt pump came back from ACS Powersteering: 1017 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 1018 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 1019 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr After finding out that the main pressure hose was over £200 from the dealers I settled on rebuilding my existing one. So I took it down to Pirtek to have it rebuilt while retaining the banjo connectors and cooling loop. There's also a reason I asked them to keep the loop intact as you will see later: 1020 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Brand new hoses ordered and new Vaico tank: 1021 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 1022 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Tie rods lengthened the same to the existing ones and new gaiters fitted: 1023 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr So was time to fit it all back. The steering coupler if you notice there is a notch you simply place the coupler in the correct orientation so that the E10 bolt goes through recess: 1024 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 1025 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Onto the control arms, when taking them off remember to remove the xenon self levelling adjuster. The clip that goes round the control arm is a bit of a pain to remove so careful not to break it. Once its removed, fit it on last once you have the control arms in: 1026 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Next was to put the new bushes/brackets onto the arms. Get some fairy liquid and water for lube and push it on. Ensure its put on in the correct position ie not to far in. I used my existing arms as a guide to match: 1027 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Fitted and ready to go on: 1028 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr While everything was out and with easy access I decided to replace the o2 sensors on the manifolds. You simply remove the engine cover off to expose the plugs. To remove the o2 sensors on the manifolds, you will need a special socket for this which can be bought on ebay. 1029 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Brand new Bosch sensors. Do one sensor at a time so you don't get mixed up: 1030 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr So this brings us back to the power steering lines and the reason I kept the coil on the main pressure hose. As you will see it is connected up to the other power steering line using a special type of rubber grommet which can be bought seperately. However they are pricey at £10 each from the dealer. This would likely explain why the high pressure hose costs a lot as it has those 3 grommets attached to the coil. My ones had broken in half and had been held together with cable ties. So rather than doing this and for the matter of principle of not paying £30 for a small piece of rubber that will degrade again, I made up my own using plastic nylon spacers at approx the right length to the original grommets. So I found a company who sell on ebay and bought a pack of 10 for £3.70 and got some nuts and bolts from my work place. So here's the rubber grommet: 1031 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr And replacements: 1032 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr So got the rack back and was time to fit the lines back in as you will see its connected together: 1033 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 1034 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 1035 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Then it was a case of putting the tank in, and connecting up the quick release lines to the cooling coil. 1036 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 1037 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Final inspection and all fitted in place: 1038 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 1039 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr All I needed to do now was fill up the power steering reservoir with fresh fluid and checked for any leaks before dropping the car back down. So next was a wheel alignment so took it down to Wheel Power on a recommendation from Tony. So with now everything lined up correctly it will be outstanding jobs which I'll give to an indy to do.
  9. Guys this is going to be one long ass post so I hope you are sitting comfortably with a cup of tea. I'm splitting this post up into two so this one will show parts purchased and second one is removal/fitting etc. Since owning my M3 I have always tried to keep up with the maintenance of the car and it has been relatively plain sailing until I found out my steering rack was weeping. So after looking into exactly what is involved in removing the rack I decided to give it some thought first. So around October it had been 6 years since picking the grey beast up and apart from reciepts of parts I have bought it during that time I had a look through again the history of the car prior to my ownership. Its not needed that much or had the common stuff replaced like track rods or other wear and tear bits. I have reciept bills for a replacement control arm and bush and apart from brake pads, coilpacks, usual servicing but not had a lot thrown at it. So going back to giving it some thought and with the steering rack in the condition it was in I figured kill a bunch of birds with one stone. I was debating whether to tackle the job myself or give it to a independant due to time constraints with working and looking after my son. So I made a plan of doing some work myself and some will be given to a trustworthy independant. So onto the shopping list and initial plan of work: Refurb steering rack New track/tie rods and ends New gaiters and clips New front control arms and pre pressed OEM bushes. New lower steering column guibo Gearbox mounts All 3 diff seals Updated diff bolts Propshaft coupler (flex disc) Propshaft centre bearing The jobs I have decided to tackle is anything related to the front axle but this of course you need parts so I went on a shopping spree! So I made an order for this lot: 968 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Obligatory nuts bolts and washers: 981 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Lemforder track/tie rods and febi gaiters. 969 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Lemforder control arms and bushes: 970 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Diff seals, propshaft flex disc, centre bearing and gearbox mounts: 973 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Lower steering arm joint: 974 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Nuts and bolts: 981 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Found something interesting. Most of these parts were not bought from the dealer but a reputable parts company for much less and are OEM parts that BMW would have sold you but with a premium. It is known that for example that lemforder supply BMW for the control arms, tie rods and bushes. My FCA bushes are lemforder items but notice the part number has been removed along with BMW: 971 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr The front control arms here if you notice the BMW logo and ///M logo has been removed: 972 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr The flex disc guibo is supplied by febi bilstein but is originally made by SGF again this is the same part BM would have sold you notice the removed part number and BMW logo: 977 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 976 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr The centre bearing supplied through febi bilstein also has the BMW and part number removed: 980 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 978 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 979 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
  10. Nice to see you still got this Suf and you got the bottom of your starting problem. Always rewarding when you trying figure out a fault and then find the answer and it works.
  11. So as some of you know I sold off my 3 piece Oz Mito wheels. Kinda regret doing it but at the same time it was hassle maintaining them and having to adjust the ride height to have the right look. I made a promise not to buy anymore wheels and concentrate on the car but there's always a temptation. As an ACS fan I am a big fan of the type 2 monobloc wheels so casual browsing on ebay a few years back I found a set and made a deal. These are quite rare as they are the 10x18 rear and 8.5x18 front. As usual I gave them to Dips at Custom Cars to refurb them back to new in the same colour. 945 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 946 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 947 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 948 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 949 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Had a spare set of tyres off the previous wheels so got them mounted on: 950 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 951 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 952 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr And some photos I took at Gaydon BMW Show: 953 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 956 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 958 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 960 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 962 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 963 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 964 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 966 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 967 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
  12. Long overdue update, still have the car! So I've done what I wanted to do with the car and getting it where it is so now I'm gonna concentrate on the maintenance side and changing bits here and there and this starts off with replacing the windscreen cowl. My one has faded badly and has cracked in areas so I ordered a replacement. The part number you need is 51718232896 and costs around £42 (2016 prices). So here's the cowl in its current condition: 926 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 927 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr So I started by marking out the wiper position. Don't have to but just gives you an idea when you refit: 928 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 929 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr You need to pop the cover off and undo the 15mm nut: 930 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Next you will need a puller tool as you won't get the wiper arm off with just pulling at it: 931 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Once that is done, remove the pollen filter cover and filter and undo the Torx T27 bolts holding the housing. Remember to unclip the cable and hose connector beneath. 932 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr You then need to start lifting up the cowl from one side and pop it off. They are held in with clips, you may find one or two still in the body of the car so simply use pliers to remove. Once that is done you need to take the big long rubber seal off so you can use it on your new one as shown. 933 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr There's the old knackered one as you will see and the manufacturer date of June 2002: 934 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 935 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Here is the new one, I coated it with black vinyl dressing: 936 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Fit the long rubber seal on the new one and make sure both sides are equal in terms of gap. Now you simply refit and as you will see it really freshens up the car. 937 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr Next I finally got round to taking the car to my local dealer to have passenger and driver airbags replaced under the recall. As you will know I had my steering wheel retrimmed and the new airbag is unit is fresher. Before: 939 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr After: 940 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr My AC diffuser comes with silver bolts which I am not a huge fan as it sticks out too much against the black. So after trying a set of replacement black bolts they lasted for all but 5 minutes and had corroded. I then found a company through ebay who sell stainless steel hex screws that are coated in black. The company is carbolts.co.uk and he said these have a special coating on them so are highly resistant to the elements/normal washing etc. So I gave them a go and happy to report they look no different to when I first swapped them. The size you need is M4x16mm socket button in black. As you can see it blends in much better with the gloss black of the diffuser: 941 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 942 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 943 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr 944 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr More updates to come, cheers for looking.
  13. Looks nice congrats, very rare colour looks in great condition. I spot a lovely 2002 in the background too
  14. Rare colour that, congrats and nice job with the polisher.
  15. Sounds to me like you didn't unbolt both shock bolts and didn't have the rear end fully up? If one side is still connected it is hard to push to the spring perch down fully so you can insert the spring with the pads in its rightful place. If you every do replace both springs you need to undo both sides.
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