So onto starting the jobs. If you plan on doing a power steering overhaul, be warned. Its a very messy job and will require a little patience as you will have fluid coming out of every orifice you can think of.
As the steering rack and lower joint was to be removed, straighten your wheel first and then lock the steering wheel. Do not under any cirumstance unlock it and move it about so you can get make life easy for removing certain bolts as you will be in s**t creek when it comes to making sure everything is straight.
First you need to remove the undertray which is 7mm bolts dotted around easy to do. Once that is done you now need to remove the aluminium chassis plate taking off all 12 bolts. You need a 17mm socket for these.
982 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Now onto the outer track/tie rod and get a 16mm socket on the nut and crack it open. The nut is a one time use only so with your new rods, it will come with a new nut. I found it was easy to undo for a bit and then gave some resistance so you will need a longer bar so you can give it more torque to remove.
983 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Once its off you will need to use a ball joint seperator tool to free it from the hub or a pickle fork and hammer it out. Once both ends are free you now need to start extracting power steering fluid from the resovoir.
To access it I had to remove my airbox and then it was a case of using my fluid extractor. You can use a suction baster etc.
984 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Now back under the car as you can see both sides of the rack is weepy fluid which points to the seals in the rack have failed.
985 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
986 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Took the one time use oetiker clips off
987 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Used my special tool to clamp and remove the inner tie rod from the rack:
988 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Pictured is the steering coupler. You need a E10 socket to remove and there is two. The one below you will need an E10 wrench as you won't get a ratchet on there.
989 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
If you're removing the control arms, the middle nut is a 22mm and is awkward to remove with a ratchet. I found it was easier to use the double spanner method to crack them open so patience is needed to remove.
990 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
991 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
The rack is bolted through the subframe using a 15 and 16mm nut and bolt and are simple to remove:
992 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
You then need to remove the lines off the rack, so starting with the banjo bolts which are 22mm and 19mm. The banjo bolts have a crush washer either side so you will need new ones. You will need a pan to catch the fluid so will be a little waiting game:
993 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
994 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
The lines have a 10mm bolt that connects to the rack so you will need to remove that:
995 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Once that's done the rack is out:
996 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
One of the hoses is a high pressure hose and that goes to the power steering pump so after reading up about owners having to replace them or rebuilding due to leakage I decided to get it refurbed. So simply remove the 22mm banjo bolt from the pump. Again be careful as fluid will seep out:
997 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Rack and steering coupler removed:
998 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
High pressure hose removed and ready for rebuilding:
999 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Looking a little bare. I dropped the antiroll bar from the brackets as it got in the way:
1000 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
So with the overhaul I decided to remove the pump. It was in working order but figured it would save time later on from having to deal with it later. I also wanted the original pump refurbed rather than buying an exchange unit just for OCD more than anything.
1001 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1002 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1003 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
So while the rack and pump was sent off for rebuilding. I got on with other things that needed doing. One of the things I noticed was when replacing my drive belts two years back, the deflection pulley was making a skateboard sound when you spun it so I got on with removing it IIRC is a 16mm bolt:
1004 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1005 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
As I was working in the same area I removed the old adjusting pulley as I found that was exhibiting similar symptoms. To remove you need a Hex H8 male socket bit:
1006 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1007 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
So in with the new and bought genuine ones from BMW which are INA branded:
1008 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1009 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Note the deflection pulley has a notch and is off centre so you simply fit it back in the same way:
1010 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1011 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
So this left me with removing the final lines and power steering resoirvoir. You have a hose connecting from the resoirvoir to the cooling coil. Word of warning these are a nightmare to remove as they use a quick disconnect fitting. The tool to remove it is one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009VI9P62/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=pda0e-21
So I got the first one off:
1012 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Unfortunately the second one which is one of the power steering lines to the coil did not want to come off with the tool. It was literally siezed on and no amount of WD40 helped with freeing it up.
So I ended up having to carefully cut the shell of the clip using a mini dremel. As you will see there was no way it could be removed as corrosion had set in.
1013 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1014 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Old parts chucked away and new parts on order:
1015 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
My rack came back from Western Power Steering all rebuilt and should last for a long while with no issues:
1016 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
The rebuilt pump came back from ACS Powersteering:
1017 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1018 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1019 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
After finding out that the main pressure hose was over £200 from the dealers I settled on rebuilding my existing one. So I took it down to Pirtek to have it rebuilt while retaining the banjo connectors and cooling loop. There's also a reason I asked them to keep the loop intact as you will see later:
1020 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Brand new hoses ordered and new Vaico tank:
1021 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1022 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Tie rods lengthened the same to the existing ones and new gaiters fitted:
1023 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
So was time to fit it all back. The steering coupler if you notice there is a notch you simply place the coupler in the correct orientation so that the E10 bolt goes through recess:
1024 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1025 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Onto the control arms, when taking them off remember to remove the xenon self levelling adjuster. The clip that goes round the control arm is a bit of a pain to remove so careful not to break it. Once its removed, fit it on last once you have the control arms in:
1026 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Next was to put the new bushes/brackets onto the arms. Get some fairy liquid and water for lube and push it on. Ensure its put on in the correct position ie not to far in. I used my existing arms as a guide to match:
1027 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Fitted and ready to go on:
1028 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
While everything was out and with easy access I decided to replace the o2 sensors on the manifolds. You simply remove the engine cover off to expose the plugs. To remove the o2 sensors on the manifolds, you will need a special socket for this which can be bought on ebay.
1029 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Brand new Bosch sensors. Do one sensor at a time so you don't get mixed up:
1030 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
So this brings us back to the power steering lines and the reason I kept the coil on the main pressure hose. As you will see it is connected up to the other power steering line using a special type of rubber grommet which can be bought seperately. However they are pricey at £10 each from the dealer. This would likely explain why the high pressure hose costs a lot as it has those 3 grommets attached to the coil.
My ones had broken in half and had been held together with cable ties. So rather than doing this and for the matter of principle of not paying £30 for a small piece of rubber that will degrade again, I made up my own using plastic nylon spacers at approx the right length to the original grommets. So I found a company who sell on ebay and bought a pack of 10 for £3.70 and got some nuts and bolts from my work place.
So here's the rubber grommet:
1031 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1032 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
So got the rack back and was time to fit the lines back in as you will see its connected together:
1033 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1034 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1035 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Then it was a case of putting the tank in, and connecting up the quick release lines to the cooling coil.
1036 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1037 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Final inspection and all fitted in place:
1038 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1039 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
All I needed to do now was fill up the power steering reservoir with fresh fluid and checked for any leaks before dropping the car back down.
So next was a wheel alignment so took it down to Wheel Power on a recommendation from Tony. So with now everything lined up correctly it will be outstanding jobs which I'll give to an indy to do.