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About Robotson

  • Rank
  • Birthday 15/11/1982

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  • Current Car
    e46 330ci
  • Gender
  • Location
    Manchester, UK

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  1. Thanks @momo and thanks @De Sisti - OK, so I'm probably looking at over £200 for the whole job, that's not too bad then. Thanks for the help!
  2. Hi all, I'll be selling my 03' 330ci this year, but just wanted to get the final few things fixed on it first - 2 of which are the rear brake pipes and front brake hoses (See MOT advisories below). Could anyone give me a rough approximation of how much this job would cost at an indie?
  3. I never got to the bottom of it no - but last week the power steering pump died! So I'm willing to bet it was that all along, in it's death throws!
  4. Bumping an old thread! I'm having the same predicament.. this is where I am - my car is 2003 with smokers pack, and the 16mm "all in one" row of buttons. But its all scratched up, and I don't want the smokers pack as I don't smoke. My VIN is PL67118. So .. 51167001411 - this seems to be the right part for the smokers pack, with the 16mm button row. But its the most expensive - min of £134 so far. 51167001409 - as far as I can tell, this is the same part, with 16mm button row, but for non-smokers pack cars. It can be got for £60 new! *But* - can I just put this in mine as a straight swap? What is in the space where the ashtray & lighter normally are? Is there a nice sunglasses storage cubby?! I can't find any photos online that show it. 51168268894 - what is this part?!
  5. Hmm, I don't think it would affect the car when stationary though (see video)?
  6. Thanks for the reply! It just had a full service immediately after it happened the first time, and they mentioned topping up all fluids so I'm guessing the PAS fluid is fine. I'll check though. What you're saying about the belt drive sounds sensible though. Plenty of things to investigate there! I'll mention those things to the indie BMW place when it goes there in a couple of weeks. Ps it had a new water pump recently so hopefully it won't be that. Ps ps, I noticed the rear brake pads weren't changed in the service - is it normal to only change the front pads in a full service? Btw, this was at my local garage, not at any kind of dealership or indie bmw place.
  7. On two separate occasions now, I've had to pull over due to a sudden onset of really heavy vibration through the steering wheel - which is in time with the engine vibrations. Video of the second time it happened here: https://youtu.be/jwGuTTyxxbo The vibration gets worse when I rev it, and also when turning the steering wheel. I had it checked over by a local garage after the first time, and they couldn't find a thing wrong with it. No worn bushes, nothing wrong with the steering rack or engine mounts. The weird thing is, both times it happened, it kind of wears off by just driving the car again. Also worth noting, both times it happened were after I booted it a bit out of a side road onto a main road.
  8. Hi mate, Did you end up doing this in the end? I'm just about to do the same to me 2003 330ci msport. Almost definitely set on B4s, as I've read they're the closest thing to the OEM/Sachs shocks, and I don't want to make an already jarring ride harder! Like you said, having new shocks and springs should feel great compared to the 16 year old/107k gear I'm currently using :) I'm also pretty sure about putting Eibach Pro Kit springs on it too, to drop it about 25mm at the front and 10mm at the rear - a very subtle drop I hope. If you've done it now, I'd be interested to hear what you went for and how it rides now.
  9. Appreciate this was a while ago, but just wondering if any of you guys fixed this problem on your e46? @mikesmith2 when you said switch, did you mean the switch on the drivers door to control the mirrors, or a switch somewhere else?
  10. Hi mate, I feel your pain! It's a distant memory but I went through all of that. Have you got P-soft? That's how I coded and sorted out mine in the end. Somewhere, I have a screenshot of the exact combination of settings that made them work properly.. I'll have a look for you, unless I pasted them into this thread earlier on? But basically, it was not a logical combination of settings. More trial and error until a certain combo worked! The headlights moving up and down when you turn it on doesn't mean auto levelling, they all do that.
  11. The 16GB is the ROM though - where programs are stored. That's just storage space. The 2GB is the RAM - which is about how many programs you can use at once without it going choppy and slowing down. My Erisin 6046B has 2GB and its fine with multiple apps. That one you've linked to seems to have exactly the same stats as the Erisin. They both have the OEM look buttons so they're probably identical inside too tbh.
  12. The heater is working fine, in terms of the right temp comes out of the right places, and when AC is on that is cold. However, it seems like the heater motor itself has died as no matter how much I dial up the power, the air doesn't get pushed out of the vents at all. It just wafts out. I think people will suggest the FSR, but I changed that last year for a new BMW part. And when that went wrong last time, the symptoms were totally different - the motor pulsed on and off. Then the HVAC/heater/ac unit then went wrong a few months ago which meant extreme heat from some places and no heat from others - but the air was always pushed out by the motor. So I'm thinking the heater motor is the most obvious culprit? Anyone got any advice? Cheers!
  13. Thanks rasa. Unfortunately that fob had a new battery last summer, and the AA guy had some sort of meter that showed that it was producing a signal. I'm starting to think I do have to just sync it. I think I'm remembering now that the reason the EWS became unsynced from the key last time was that the battery from the fob was out for too long when we changed it, and the transponder lost power, so became unsynced from the EWS. I think. But this time I'm hoping that has not happened as the battery hasn't been out.. all that happened is the car battery died. Hmm.
  14. Another tedious key based thread I'm afraid. I thought I'd already experienced every gamut of e46 key based trauma, but I have a new problem.. Car has a drain caused by something that fuse 62 is responsible for (hvac related), and this killed my battery. So badly it wouldn't even jump start. So AA just replaced the battery. Now, the key continues to start the car, but no longer opens (or locks) the doors with the remote. I know the keys can become out of sync with the car, as I've been through that. But when that happened to me, the car would not start with the key. But can anyone remember, is there 2 types of syncing? Ie one with fob to doors etc, and one with key to EWS system? In the past, I remember doing some sort of sync where I had to hold down buttons on the fob and turn the ignition to certain points, but then this synced the fob go the doors, but resulted in the EWS being out of sync with the fob. So at that time, I could open the car remotely but not start it. End result was £125 for a new key. Now I have the opposite problem. Any ideas? PS the AA guy tested the key and could see that it was producing a signal. So that leads me to think it is just out of sync?
  15. Turns out putting fuse 62 back in killed the battery. Please see my other thread about fuse 62! It never ends..
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