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About Robotson

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  • Birthday 15/11/1982

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  • Current Car
    e46 330ci
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  • Location
    Manchester, UK

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  1. Hmm, I don't think it would affect the car when stationary though (see video)?
  2. Thanks for the reply! It just had a full service immediately after it happened the first time, and they mentioned topping up all fluids so I'm guessing the PAS fluid is fine. I'll check though. What you're saying about the belt drive sounds sensible though. Plenty of things to investigate there! I'll mention those things to the indie BMW place when it goes there in a couple of weeks. Ps it had a new water pump recently so hopefully it won't be that. Ps ps, I noticed the rear brake pads weren't changed in the service - is it normal to only change the front pads in a full service? Btw, this was at my local garage, not at any kind of dealership or indie bmw place.
  3. On two separate occasions now, I've had to pull over due to a sudden onset of really heavy vibration through the steering wheel - which is in time with the engine vibrations. Video of the second time it happened here: https://youtu.be/jwGuTTyxxbo The vibration gets worse when I rev it, and also when turning the steering wheel. I had it checked over by a local garage after the first time, and they couldn't find a thing wrong with it. No worn bushes, nothing wrong with the steering rack or engine mounts. The weird thing is, both times it happened, it kind of wears off by just driving the car again. Also worth noting, both times it happened were after I booted it a bit out of a side road onto a main road.
  4. Hi mate, Did you end up doing this in the end? I'm just about to do the same to me 2003 330ci msport. Almost definitely set on B4s, as I've read they're the closest thing to the OEM/Sachs shocks, and I don't want to make an already jarring ride harder! Like you said, having new shocks and springs should feel great compared to the 16 year old/107k gear I'm currently using :) I'm also pretty sure about putting Eibach Pro Kit springs on it too, to drop it about 25mm at the front and 10mm at the rear - a very subtle drop I hope. If you've done it now, I'd be interested to hear what you went for and how it rides now.
  5. Appreciate this was a while ago, but just wondering if any of you guys fixed this problem on your e46? @mikesmith2 when you said switch, did you mean the switch on the drivers door to control the mirrors, or a switch somewhere else?
  6. Hi mate, I feel your pain! It's a distant memory but I went through all of that. Have you got P-soft? That's how I coded and sorted out mine in the end. Somewhere, I have a screenshot of the exact combination of settings that made them work properly.. I'll have a look for you, unless I pasted them into this thread earlier on? But basically, it was not a logical combination of settings. More trial and error until a certain combo worked! The headlights moving up and down when you turn it on doesn't mean auto levelling, they all do that.
  7. The 16GB is the ROM though - where programs are stored. That's just storage space. The 2GB is the RAM - which is about how many programs you can use at once without it going choppy and slowing down. My Erisin 6046B has 2GB and its fine with multiple apps. That one you've linked to seems to have exactly the same stats as the Erisin. They both have the OEM look buttons so they're probably identical inside too tbh.
  8. The heater is working fine, in terms of the right temp comes out of the right places, and when AC is on that is cold. However, it seems like the heater motor itself has died as no matter how much I dial up the power, the air doesn't get pushed out of the vents at all. It just wafts out. I think people will suggest the FSR, but I changed that last year for a new BMW part. And when that went wrong last time, the symptoms were totally different - the motor pulsed on and off. Then the HVAC/heater/ac unit then went wrong a few months ago which meant extreme heat from some places and no heat from others - but the air was always pushed out by the motor. So I'm thinking the heater motor is the most obvious culprit? Anyone got any advice? Cheers!
  9. Thanks rasa. Unfortunately that fob had a new battery last summer, and the AA guy had some sort of meter that showed that it was producing a signal. I'm starting to think I do have to just sync it. I think I'm remembering now that the reason the EWS became unsynced from the key last time was that the battery from the fob was out for too long when we changed it, and the transponder lost power, so became unsynced from the EWS. I think. But this time I'm hoping that has not happened as the battery hasn't been out.. all that happened is the car battery died. Hmm.
  10. Another tedious key based thread I'm afraid. I thought I'd already experienced every gamut of e46 key based trauma, but I have a new problem.. Car has a drain caused by something that fuse 62 is responsible for (hvac related), and this killed my battery. So badly it wouldn't even jump start. So AA just replaced the battery. Now, the key continues to start the car, but no longer opens (or locks) the doors with the remote. I know the keys can become out of sync with the car, as I've been through that. But when that happened to me, the car would not start with the key. But can anyone remember, is there 2 types of syncing? Ie one with fob to doors etc, and one with key to EWS system? In the past, I remember doing some sort of sync where I had to hold down buttons on the fob and turn the ignition to certain points, but then this synced the fob go the doors, but resulted in the EWS being out of sync with the fob. So at that time, I could open the car remotely but not start it. End result was £125 for a new key. Now I have the opposite problem. Any ideas? PS the AA guy tested the key and could see that it was producing a signal. So that leads me to think it is just out of sync?
  11. Turns out putting fuse 62 back in killed the battery. Please see my other thread about fuse 62! It never ends..
  12. Ok. It's not the FSR. And after reading a lot of similar threads relating to drains that stop when you pull fuse 62, such as: http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=878256#/topics/878256 And http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1042648#/topics/1042648 I think it's the Heater Control Valve and/or the IHKA control unit/Climate control unit. Seems like one can develop a fault which affects the other, draining the battery by keeping something on. Gonna get an auto electrician to test the current at various places whilst we unplug said components. If anyone has any info to help me speed up this process that would be much appreciated!
  13. Hi Tim, Just wanted to say a big thank you for the message above! I've been really busy recently so hadn't had any time to look at the car, but I decided to buy the DAB+ stick you mentioned above as it was only £20 - and that's solved the issue completely! Reception now seems to be perfect So for anyone else with dodgy DAB reception with their Android HU - I fully recommend Tim's advice below to buy one of those DAB+ sticks. Cheers! George
  14. Soooo, yup, I'm a moron. Fuse 62 was unplugged. It all works now, so that's good!
  15. No the dial on the dash is the only dependable part of the system - push it up and it gets hotter, wind it down and it gets colder I guess because it is purely mechanical and independent of the AC system in general? So at about 1am last night, I suddenly remembered that when I first experienced these issues, I took Fuse 62 out, as the faulty FSR was draining my battery (I think it keeps the little AC fan on permanently when the car is off instead of switching it off after a few min). So I *think* I have maybe forgotten to plug it back in after changing the FSR?! I will be checking as soon as I get home tonight! Although, if the fuse was pulled, wouldn't that just mean the whole AC/Heater system wouldn't work at all?
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