Robotson

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About Robotson

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 15/11/82

Profile Information

  • Current Car
    e46 330ci
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Manchester, UK

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  1. What's the best OEM-looking Android unit now?

    The 16GB is the ROM though - where programs are stored. That's just storage space. The 2GB is the RAM - which is about how many programs you can use at once without it going choppy and slowing down. My Erisin 6046B has 2GB and its fine with multiple apps. That one you've linked to seems to have exactly the same stats as the Erisin. They both have the OEM look buttons so they're probably identical inside too tbh.
  2. The heater is working fine, in terms of the right temp comes out of the right places, and when AC is on that is cold. However, it seems like the heater motor itself has died as no matter how much I dial up the power, the air doesn't get pushed out of the vents at all. It just wafts out. I think people will suggest the FSR, but I changed that last year for a new BMW part. And when that went wrong last time, the symptoms were totally different - the motor pulsed on and off. Then the HVAC/heater/ac unit then went wrong a few months ago which meant extreme heat from some places and no heat from others - but the air was always pushed out by the motor. So I'm thinking the heater motor is the most obvious culprit? Anyone got any advice? Cheers!
  3. Thanks rasa. Unfortunately that fob had a new battery last summer, and the AA guy had some sort of meter that showed that it was producing a signal. I'm starting to think I do have to just sync it. I think I'm remembering now that the reason the EWS became unsynced from the key last time was that the battery from the fob was out for too long when we changed it, and the transponder lost power, so became unsynced from the EWS. I think. But this time I'm hoping that has not happened as the battery hasn't been out.. all that happened is the car battery died. Hmm.
  4. Another tedious key based thread I'm afraid. I thought I'd already experienced every gamut of e46 key based trauma, but I have a new problem.. Car has a drain caused by something that fuse 62 is responsible for (hvac related), and this killed my battery. So badly it wouldn't even jump start. So AA just replaced the battery. Now, the key continues to start the car, but no longer opens (or locks) the doors with the remote. I know the keys can become out of sync with the car, as I've been through that. But when that happened to me, the car would not start with the key. But can anyone remember, is there 2 types of syncing? Ie one with fob to doors etc, and one with key to EWS system? In the past, I remember doing some sort of sync where I had to hold down buttons on the fob and turn the ignition to certain points, but then this synced the fob go the doors, but resulted in the EWS being out of sync with the fob. So at that time, I could open the car remotely but not start it. End result was £125 for a new key. Now I have the opposite problem. Any ideas? PS the AA guy tested the key and could see that it was producing a signal. So that leads me to think it is just out of sync?
  5. Replaced FSR/Hedgehog but symptoms remain!

    Turns out putting fuse 62 back in killed the battery. Please see my other thread about fuse 62! It never ends..
  6. Battery drain.. Fuse 62? Or not?

    Ok. It's not the FSR. And after reading a lot of similar threads relating to drains that stop when you pull fuse 62, such as: http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=878256#/topics/878256 And http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1042648#/topics/1042648 I think it's the Heater Control Valve and/or the IHKA control unit/Climate control unit. Seems like one can develop a fault which affects the other, draining the battery by keeping something on. Gonna get an auto electrician to test the current at various places whilst we unplug said components. If anyone has any info to help me speed up this process that would be much appreciated!
  7. How to improve DAB reception?

    Hi Tim, Just wanted to say a big thank you for the message above! I've been really busy recently so hadn't had any time to look at the car, but I decided to buy the DAB+ stick you mentioned above as it was only £20 - and that's solved the issue completely! Reception now seems to be perfect So for anyone else with dodgy DAB reception with their Android HU - I fully recommend Tim's advice below to buy one of those DAB+ sticks. Cheers! George
  8. Replaced FSR/Hedgehog but symptoms remain!

    Soooo, yup, I'm a moron. Fuse 62 was unplugged. It all works now, so that's good!
  9. Replaced FSR/Hedgehog but symptoms remain!

    No the dial on the dash is the only dependable part of the system - push it up and it gets hotter, wind it down and it gets colder I guess because it is purely mechanical and independent of the AC system in general? So at about 1am last night, I suddenly remembered that when I first experienced these issues, I took Fuse 62 out, as the faulty FSR was draining my battery (I think it keeps the little AC fan on permanently when the car is off instead of switching it off after a few min). So I *think* I have maybe forgotten to plug it back in after changing the FSR?! I will be checking as soon as I get home tonight! Although, if the fuse was pulled, wouldn't that just mean the whole AC/Heater system wouldn't work at all?
  10. As the title states, I replaced the (presumed) knackered old FSR/Hedgehog in my 330ci after getting erratic heater behaviour, but it hasn't fixed said behaviour! I had blasted by red hot air over the top of the dash, even with temp set to 16°c and dash dial all the way down to the coldest setting. I have to try various random combinations of buttons until a vaguely temperate climate is achieved in the car. This is my 2nd e46, and I replaced the FSR on the first one too - which fixed the issue that time. I used genuine BMW parts both times. Does anyone know if the symptoms can be caused by anything else too? Or perhaps this FSR was broken from the factory? I bloody hope not, it's a right bugger to change :/
  11. And i think they look bloody lovely on my 330! Found them for £460 delivered, from Hotline Wheels in Manchester. Same dimensions as the MV2s I had on there, but smaller offset so they sit closer to the arches for a more aggressive look. And no rubbing! https://www.flickr.com/gp/130803215@N05/JbSvp1
  12. How to improve DAB reception?

    Yeah I think I've seen that. I think it was mounted inside the rear bumper though IIRC. Sounds like too much of a faff compared to under the parcel shelf!
  13. How to improve DAB reception?

    Wow that's quite big! Did you have to have a hole drilled in your roof then? I'm thinking a big aerial in the boot might work! I don't have signal drop-out at all, just terrible reception.
  14. How to improve DAB reception?

    What kind of aerial did you fit? Do you have a link to it, or a similar one? But you're saying the reception is still very bad even with the new aerial? Does it crackle & make all those horrible noises when you're driving down a street?
  15. How to improve DAB reception?

    Hi all, I have a 330Ci with an Erisin 6046B HU, and the DAB+ unit plugged into USB, with the aerial attached to the windscreen. But the DAB reception is so bad it's basically unusable unless you're on a road with no buildings anywhere near it. What's the best & cheapest way to improve it? Can you use the shark fin aerial on the roof or is that just for the car's original radio or GPS? Or can you get some kind of powered DAB aerial fitted to these things? What about the big long TV-aerial-like aerials, could you maybe mount that under the rear parcel shelf or something?