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gaz-777

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About gaz-777

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 05/09/1983

Profile Information

  • Current Car
    E46 330CI
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Leicester
  • Interests
    Cars, Detailing, Football, Mountain Biking, Family

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  1. Hi Guys, just to update this thread I carried out an oil and filter change a few weeks ago. Also gave the pipercross panel filter a clean and replaced the pollen filter. Whilst doing the oil change I noticed an oil leak on the passenger side of the block which looked like it was coming from the oil filter housing gasket. You can’t see the leak from the top of the engine but only underneath with the bottom tray removed. So I ordered a genuine gasket from BMW and replaced the oil filter housing gasket on monday. The job was easy enough after watching a handy video on YouTube, but the majority of the job was cleaning all the oil that had leaked down the side of the block onto the steering rack and surrounding area. As I didn’t take any photos I’ve attached one from the web to show the failed housing gasket. And after finishing that I found out that I also have another leak on the drivers side at the back of the engine. I suspect it is a failed cam cover gasket which is next on my to do list. A genuine BMW gasket is £38, anyone fitted any other brand of gasket for this job?
  2. Shame that mate, after all you’ve been through with it. I’ve had my 330ci nearly 5 years now, keep thinking about selling but just can’t find anything anywhere near the condition of it. I’ve got the cam cover gasket and oil filter housing gasket to change next week, I use it daily now and I love driving it. Any thing in mind what’s next?
  3. This looks very clean mate, all the usual jobs/mods being done too, I like!!
  4. Hey bud, I already had longer wheel bolts when I purchased the car. So I’m only guessing you will need them to fit the wheels, never tried the original bolts so I can’t comment on them. I sourced my centre caps caps from eBay, there only cheap ones and yes they are 68mm so they should fit. But I did pick up some genuine bmw “m” stickers for the wheels, again on eBay.
  5. Ha, funny you say that, because this is the first car I really liked on this forum and I ended up buying it! I suppose it was just meant to be
  6. Glad to hear buddy, it’s kind of having an electronic valve that opens at 4K revs. It sounds stock at low revs, but then open the throttle and take it to 5-6k and it has that M3 raspy metallic note. Would love to hear what it sounds like with a Race spec Eisenmann bolted on the back.
  7. Cheers Kirkynut! Yes the Hella parts are one of the best I’ve seen. Straight replacement with no problems, I didn’t realise at first that the radiator came equipped for both manual and auto. I just assumed the one I ordered for my reg was for a manual. But hey now I know!
  8. The resonator delete amplified the 6 pot a bit more, a few pops on overrun and nothing drastic in noise. But if I had the chance again I would do a rear box delete first to see what that sounds like. And then go from there.
  9. This is looking very nice buddy, love the rear spoiler. You mentioned about the exhaust upgrade on your old 328, what rear box did you upgrade to? I have the resonator delete on mine but my rear box/tail pipes could be improved!
  10. The Hella products seem to be good quality and a perfect oem replacement. Better than cheaper ones on eBay etc. I actually destroyed the drain plug on my original radiator as the main plug just twists and then you pull it out, but I kept unscrewing it with my ratchet and broke it. The drain screw in the middle of it does screw out but not the main plug. Luckily I wasn’t using the old drain plug in the new rad. I did install my original coolant level sensor and kept the new one for spares.
  11. Continuing on from the coolant change, I recently ordered a new Hella Radiator and new Hella expansion tank from euro car parts. Fitting was relatively easy and straight forward. The radiator comes with a short and a long drain plug, the longer one was installed and caused a leak. So I swapped it out for the shorter one and that sorted the leak out. After running the engine up to temperature I had another leak coming from the top hose where it connects to the expansion tank, but the cause of that was that it wasn’t properly connected. After that was clipped on properly all was good. I haven’t had any other leak after a week of driving it now and should be good for another 13 years!
  12. So I have been losing coolant for a couple of months now but it was something I wanted to address with the car approaching 90k miles anyway. It turns out that the leaks were coming from the thermostat housing and the failed O ring on the coolant temp sensor. Additional to that the bearings in the water pump shaft were making quite a racket. So I ordered 1 x Meyle water pump, 1 x wahler thermostat, 1 x genuine bmw coolant temp sensor (they don’t sell just the O ring on its own), 2 x new dayco aux belts, 5L Comma G48 coolant and 5L of de-ironised water for a 50/50 mix ratio. Yesterday I went ahead to change all the above and followed this diy I found on the web https://www.rmeuropean.com/bmw-e46-cooling-system-overhaul.aspx This was very helpful and includes all the part numbers for doing the whole system. The job was a success and the engine now sounds so much better without that noisy water pump. They were the original parts and had done well for 13 years of use. Next job will be the cam cover gasket as it has a very slight leak on the exhaust manifold side of the engine.
  13. Fingers crossed you have no more coolant leaks then. I’ve just got together the parts for a coolant change including Meyle water pump, Wahler thermostat, bmw coolant temp sensor and new dayco aux belts. My radiator and pipe work look fine and the expansion tank seems to be ok too. I currently have coolant leaking from the thermostat housing and temp sensor (failed O - ring). Bmw don’t sell just the O-ring so I’ve had to buy a whole new sensor for £36!
  14. Cheers bud I purchased my reps from Chris at CM Wheels, it’s the second set I’ve had off him and can’t fault them. Quality wheels at a good price. He does the atomic but there isn’t much difference and are more expensive. The VMR’s are nice but again pricey.
  15. Thanks mate, the current specs are 8.5j x 19” et38 (et33 with a 5mm spacer) with 225/35/19 rubber on the front. Then on the rear they are 9.5j x 19” et40 with 245/35/19 rubber. I’m still trying to find a better looking wheel than the CSL’s for it!
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