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martinlink

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About martinlink

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 20/08/1992

Profile Information

  • Current Car
    e46 320dM 110kW
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Estonia, the cold north :P

Recent Profile Visitors

611 profile views
  1. Looking for a 320d owner who also has TestO (the logging programme). I need a WOT log in 3rd gear from 1500rpm up to 4000rpm to see how the turbo behaves. Would need to have RPM, boost requested, boost actual, MAF requested, MAF actual and N75 duty cycle logged. If someone has INPA and a 320d manual that would also be helpful - just let me know! Can also be a 320cd! Thanks in advance!
  2. Hey! I'm in a right pickle over here. 2 years and counting, I have been messing with my turbo without success - the boost pressure rises too slowly, takes about 5 seconds for the boost to reach its desired value. I have swapped the CHRA for a new Melett one but this hasn't helped either. Yesterday I disassembled the turbo again and noticed that the hot side's housing has been scored by one of the previous CHRAs... So I'm on the hunt for a new hot side for the turbo, or a complete turbo with some other fault so I can use the hot side from it. My current turbo is 750431, but probably one from 717478 would also work, hopefully the CHRA would fit in it. So if anyone has any idea where to find one of these, or maybe owns one they could spare, I'm all ears! Thanks!
  3. I've heard opinions that removing the exhaust may just mask the issue which might be elsewhere. Both my cats are empty so only the muffler remains... Engine code is M47N or M47tu
  4. Both solenoids and the maf have been replaced last year. I also refreshed the o-rings inside the vac pump so unless something else is broken in there, it should be alright... Too bad the people here aren't too keen on lending their mufflers so I could check, even though I'd be doing the work...
  5. I did apply a load of industrial-grade cleaner to the vane system while changing the chra, everything moved freely. I have already driven it without the muffler and it was better, but it might be that the problem lies elsewhere and removing the exhaust just improves the situation. Ideally I'd have to find another exhaust which is 100% fine and test it under my car - if then the issue remains, it's deffo not the exhaust.
  6. The vacuum pipe has been plugged but it's physically still there.
  7. No, no fault codes except for the egr "air mass too high" from the egr being closed. It's from 2002 and is the 150hp model. Manual gearbox.
  8. Yeah, all new vac hoses, both cats deleted, EGR physically removed. Also worth mentioning: both pressure converters replaced, actuator is leak free, all boost pipe clamps and o-rings replaced. I've tried all the usual suspects, so it's either something really uncommon or stupidly simple Edit: wiyh the muffler removed, it works almost as it should but overboosts, so maybe the muffler itself is clogged? I dont know how to test this theory though...
  9. I've had an issue with my turbo spooling very slowly from 1500rpm in 3rd to 5th gear - messing with the stop screw and actuator didn't yield any good changes... So a few days ago I have finally replaced my turbo CHRA for a Melett one. Initial results are promising, but it's not there yet. As the CHRA came with the stop screw not set up, I had to estimate the correct position. I read somewhere that 1 full turn over the level where the actuator doesn't touch the screw is the right place, so that's where it is currently at. Here's an INPA video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HHO5qZVHas The description contains timestamps for some accelerations in various gears, plus a normal acceleration starting from 1st gear. It still seems that it is somewhat slow to spool. What could I try next? Also, maybe someone has INPA and a 320d manual car who would be kind enough to do the same tests I did in the video (3rd and 4th gear from 1500 at full throttle). Thanks in advance!
  10. The thickness for my 320d was 75w80 and I used Fuchs Titan Sintofluid as it has the BMW certificate. It was very smooth for about 3 days and then slowly the effect wore off, plus I got used to it. My oil had been in there for over 240k miles so I expected a lot more tbh... Also, the new oil didn't cure a slightly worn synchro which doesn't want to let me shift into 1st when the box is completely cold. Luckily it gets better after 2 shifts.
  11. Hi! So my 320d has been in my possession for 2 years now, and it has always had a "40A1 alternator load signal" fault and a "B+ short circuit to ground" on the electric heater in the DDE5.0. Needless to say, the heater did not work. I decided to try and fix these issues 2 days ago, so I swapped the voltage regulator on the alternator, cleaned the sliprings as nicely as I could, and installed a second hand aux heater from Lithuania, a HW version C 03 (which should be the newest). Now I've been driving it around for the last two days with ambient temperatures around -1 C, toggling the IHKA on and off, up to 32 C on full whack etc, but I don't see any change in the revs on the tachometre and no change in charging voltage from the alternator. It stays at 14.2v very consistently. I checked the DDE for errors a number of times and the two faults have not returned. I have also forced the heater to work through INPA's "Activate" page and it seems to work when I do so - the engine tone changes noticeably, though the revs still don't jump up visibly. After this, there are still no errors in INPA. Battery voltage is at 12.4v when engine not running - should be almost full? So the questions: why is the heater not turning on on its own when I turn up the heat, only when forced through INPA? Is there a reset process to make the car use it after it has been switched? Anything else I could try? Thanks!
  12. Great work, thanks! Will give them a go soon. I'd guess the EDIABAS1 is a backup from an update or something, since only the one without the "1" would be used in practice.
  13. @dontpannic I got a set of files but it seems to be incomplete. If you can be bothered, please do upload them somewhere. Even if it's the same set I got, at least they will be easily downloadable once you get them up. (I had to install an ancient version I found from a Russian site onto a separate PC and then copy the files from there - really tedious work )
  14. Damn notification e-mails not working, didn't even know I had replies to my post... The car is from march 2002. I've had reports of the same oil I'm using being consumed by other BMW's and also a Toyota. Wonder if it's the low quality and low viscosity that lets it seep past semi-worn seals. People who has the same consumption as me switched to Motul and didn't use any after that - can this be true or are they just hyping up their new oil brand?
  15. Hi, I've had this issue right from the start when I got the car about 1.5 years ago. The car is burning oil at a rate of about 1 litre per 1500 miles. Did an oil change recently with Mobil Super 3000 X1 5w40 (LL-01) and the consumption has stayed roughly the same. CCV vortex filter is installed and cleaned already once, just in case. No leaks outside the car, 100% all filters are new and made by Mahle/Knecht/Bosch - quality OEM stuff. Intercooler has always gotten more than a normal amount of oil in it, so much so that it gets to the intake manifold which is always wet with fresh oil inside. When I've removed the small hose from the CCV to the turbo intake, it always had lots of oil in it. Car also shoots a puff of blue smoke on any semi-quick takeoff. Turbo is tight, no play neither laterally nor axially. But it makes a howling noise that changes pitch with revs when it's colder, for about 5-10 minutes. So the question is: how do I make sure if it's the turbo, the oil rings or the valve stem seals? I don't want to go swapping or rebuilding expensive things without being sure what's broken If there is anything more you'd need to know, just ask! Thanks in advance.
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