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About dontpannic

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/06/1988

Profile Information

  • Current Car
    2004 E46 330D Sport Touring + Fiesta ST
  • Gender
  • Location
    Orpington, Kent

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  1. I'm a massive fan of the Uniroyal Rainsport 3's I'm currently running on mine, so much grip, wet or dry!
  2. Just a technical point - the switch doesn't convert from RHD/LHD - it basically just takes the side-specific beam off, so essentially switching between RHD and flat, or LHD and flat. It's OK for temporarily driving on the continent but is unlikely to pass any annual vehicle checks (MOT etc) as the beam pattern won't be blinding anyone, but it won't be correct for your side of the road. In the long run you'll have to buy LHD light units. It's a white plastic lever on the right or left side of the xenon projector behind the rubber or plastic cap for the dipped beam. Xenon are projector headlights, so you'll have a lens that looks like the end of a lightbulb, halogen is a bowl made of mirrors with the bulb central.
  3. From 2002 onwards I believe
  4. Really? Were they proper D2S Xenon bulbs or just a cheap and cheerful H7 kit? Where did he purchase them? Everything that I've seen from Depo is that they're H7 Halogen for both low and high beam. That's not to say that a cheap and cheerful H7 HID kit won't work - it will, and it will still look "OK" but it's still worth noting that although it will be a massive upgrade over the reflector halogen headlights, they still won't be as good as the OEM Bi-Xenons.
  5. As momo said. Xenon retrofit bulbs (i.e. H7 Xenons) in the standard reflector housings is a really bad idea - they're blinding and scatter the light all over the place and crucially won't pass an MOT. This is because the light source within the bulb (halogen = filament, xenon = arc) is in a different place, and the reflector bowls are precisely calibrated for a particular light source. Genuine Xenon retrofits are by far and away the best option, you'll need to purchase a pair of headlights and get someone local to you to code your LCM / LSZ to accept Xenons to stop bulb warnings or flickering. Depo projectors are still only designed for halogen bulbs. Although they will be "better" for retrofitted Xenons than just in the reflector housings, due to the projector lens and cutoff, they still won't be perfect. The other option is to buy a retrofit kit from TheRetroFitSource / RetrofitLab to fit proper xenon projectors into your reflector bowls. Any proper xenon kit will need the LCM recoding - aftermarket H7 kits etc have resistors in to trick the bulb warning system.
  6. Can confirm it definitely does work with the C12. I was driving back from France and had a deflation and the warning did appear on the dash with a beep.
  7. The E46 does have OBD2, it does have some sort of bus, K-Line I think rather than full CAN. The only advantage to the way I did it is I didn't have a fuse piggyback hanging out of the front of the fusebox, and it looks a lot neater (i.e. invisible). Only worth doing it if you've got the fusebox out though, I was doing my GPS tracker install at the same time so did both at once.
  8. Everything's in the boot, the navigation DVD drive, the BM54 tuner/amp - the only thing at the front is your disc drive and screen - I suspect there's some sort of short in the boot wiring. Where to start I have no idea but stripping out the boot trim and checking the wiring would be my first port of call.
  9. Do you have a stock CD player / tape player (i.e. no standard navigation?) If so - ignore everything that says you have to bypass the HK amp - it's all rubbish. You'll need a quad lock to ISO adaptor, steering wheel adaptor, which it looks like you have in that kit - so just plug and play and away you go. The HK and the digital spatializer button in the centre console will still work absolutely fine.
  10. I don't blame you for a second. I just wanted mine as OEM as possible (even then it's still not 100%, can't connect to the Xenon controllers via INPA and don't have self levelling) - but then again I had the dash apart for other jobs at the same time so wasn't too much extra work. Your way is definitely quicker and easier and will definitely work to enable bi-xenon shutters
  11. I ended up putting a new fuse leaf in the glovebox fusebox on an ignition switched feed (right hand side of fusebox). Up until then I had it wired in to the torch charger in the glovebox - but I didn't need a permanent live. You could put a new fuse leaf in the permanent live part of the fusebox if you're feeling brave and OEM enough. I actually ended up adding 3 fuses to my fusebox - ignition switched live for dash cam, ignition switched live for GPS tracker, and permanent live for GPS tracker.
  12. That's one way to do it. To do it the proper BMW OEM way, you need to run wiring from pins 2 and 36 on the LCM plug to each solenoid controller on the ballast. That way you can tell the car in the coding whether you want bi-xenon on for flash to pass or not - wiring it up as above means the shutter will activate any time you flash someone regardless if the Xenon's are on or not.
  13. Start from the side of the car and work backwards round the corner - the black trim does just prise off. The sensors in the bumper if you have an M Sport are just about accessible from underneath without having to remove the bumper but you'll probably need some superglue to re-attach the sensor frame to the back of the bumper if you, like me, ended up snapping them off.
  14. Try disconnecting the unit completely to let it reset - from a technical point of view it looks like the MCU is working as the reverse camera switching, display and sound is working, but the Android part of the thing isn't showing - it might need resetting, or you might have to / want to reseat the Android system board inside the unit.
  15. Parrot MKi9000 with Unika for steering wheel controls. Completely hidden and operated through steering wheel controls. There's probably something newer out there by now, but that seemed to work for me quite nicely back when I first got the car.
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