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About dontpannic

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/06/1988

Profile Information

  • Current Car
    2004 E46 330D Sport Touring + Fiesta ST
  • Gender
  • Location
    Orpington, Kent

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  1. I'm not even talking airbox fouling - you need cages and bracketry which will cost you at least £100 on top of the cost of whatever double din unit you have. The Sony XAV series is a full depth, half height unit which in theory should be perfect for the E46 and you either need to fabricate your own bracketry, or purchase a kit from the States which doubles the cost when you include shipping and turns parts of your dash into non-matching cheap plastic. I really wish it was simple and cheaper to fit a double din stereo into an E46, I really do. Incidentally my horrible, unreliable, cheap, crap Android unit is still working 3 years on. I just bought a USB dongle to enable CarPlay on it and it works seamlessly. I have OEM-ish looks and CarPlay for a total of £230. Alright the inbuilt amp isn't fantastic and the bluetooth A2DP quality is garbage, but its a solution that works. The Harman Kardon setup sorts out a bit of the SQ issues anyway.
  2. Spammy bump aside, I've just worked out why this linked unit is so expensive. Nobody ever mentions how much of a pain in the arse it is to fit a double din unit into an E46 - especially a full depth or full depth half height unit like the Sony XAV's. The Chinese units (and this Alpine, which is essentially a regular Alpine double DIN but with an E46 specific fitting kit / cage / wiring harness) literally are a straight fit.
  3. Sounds like your electric modules are buggered - if it's anything like the X5 they're in such a place where they flood if the sunroof drains are blocked. Check the physical condition of them first.
  4. I ran a hardwire kit into the fusebox in the end using a vacant switched fuse space and a leaf from BMW. That way it's got its own fuse in the fusebox. Removed the A pillar trim and tied the cable behind there and cut a small slot into the housing around the rain sensor and mounted the dash cam below that. No wires visible at all and didn't have to splice into existing wiring anywhere.
  5. I went through so many combinations to get my Xenons as good as they are now. I'm now running a standard pair of bowls that I found in decent condition with retrofit lab bixenon shutters as I don't have bi-xenon ballasts the 'just run 12v to it' burnt the magnetic coil and they stuck open. After a lot of pissing about I'm very happy with the light output now lol
  6. Get it plugged in to INPA - it will tell you exactly what's wrong and not just code numbers.
  7. I know this has been bumped by a newbie so the discussion might not be entirely relevant any more, but reading through it seems as though December 2016 marked 12 months with my Android headunit. It's now May 2019, so I make that 3 and a bit years now with the Android unit, still working as well as it was the first day I got it.
  8. Dodgy battery / alternator? Check voltage when the lights are on and the engine is running.
  9. I'm a massive fan of the Uniroyal Rainsport 3's I'm currently running on mine, so much grip, wet or dry!
  10. Just a technical point - the switch doesn't convert from RHD/LHD - it basically just takes the side-specific beam off, so essentially switching between RHD and flat, or LHD and flat. It's OK for temporarily driving on the continent but is unlikely to pass any annual vehicle checks (MOT etc) as the beam pattern won't be blinding anyone, but it won't be correct for your side of the road. In the long run you'll have to buy LHD light units. It's a white plastic lever on the right or left side of the xenon projector behind the rubber or plastic cap for the dipped beam. Xenon are projector headlights, so you'll have a lens that looks like the end of a lightbulb, halogen is a bowl made of mirrors with the bulb central.
  11. From 2002 onwards I believe
  12. Really? Were they proper D2S Xenon bulbs or just a cheap and cheerful H7 kit? Where did he purchase them? Everything that I've seen from Depo is that they're H7 Halogen for both low and high beam. That's not to say that a cheap and cheerful H7 HID kit won't work - it will, and it will still look "OK" but it's still worth noting that although it will be a massive upgrade over the reflector halogen headlights, they still won't be as good as the OEM Bi-Xenons.
  13. As momo said. Xenon retrofit bulbs (i.e. H7 Xenons) in the standard reflector housings is a really bad idea - they're blinding and scatter the light all over the place and crucially won't pass an MOT. This is because the light source within the bulb (halogen = filament, xenon = arc) is in a different place, and the reflector bowls are precisely calibrated for a particular light source. Genuine Xenon retrofits are by far and away the best option, you'll need to purchase a pair of headlights and get someone local to you to code your LCM / LSZ to accept Xenons to stop bulb warnings or flickering. Depo projectors are still only designed for halogen bulbs. Although they will be "better" for retrofitted Xenons than just in the reflector housings, due to the projector lens and cutoff, they still won't be perfect. The other option is to buy a retrofit kit from TheRetroFitSource / RetrofitLab to fit proper xenon projectors into your reflector bowls. Any proper xenon kit will need the LCM recoding - aftermarket H7 kits etc have resistors in to trick the bulb warning system.
  14. Can confirm it definitely does work with the C12. I was driving back from France and had a deflation and the warning did appear on the dash with a beep.
  15. The E46 does have OBD2, it does have some sort of bus, K-Line I think rather than full CAN. The only advantage to the way I did it is I didn't have a fuse piggyback hanging out of the front of the fusebox, and it looks a lot neater (i.e. invisible). Only worth doing it if you've got the fusebox out though, I was doing my GPS tracker install at the same time so did both at once.
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