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jamesfoley

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About jamesfoley

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  • Birthday 20/12/1990

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    http://jfoley.co.uk

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Suffolk

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  1. Just picked up a switch panel with the added tyre pressure switch and I plan on running the extra wire from the DSC module to the switch panel. Looking at the wiring diagram (https://i.imgur.com/zcOvSzs.png) I need to run a wire from pin 40 of the DSC module (X18303) to pin 2 (X1869) of the switch panel. Does anyone know where I can find some information regarding the actual pins I need to purchase to fit inside both the DSC module plug and the switch panel plug?
  2. I know P.A Soft BMW Scanner has the options to change the bulb checks, I had to use a combination of BMW Scanner and SSS Progman to do my rear LEDs on my old pre-facelift. Might be worth picking up BMW Scanner as I found it a lot easier to use than any of the other tools.
  3. Are you able to go into any detail on how it works? I can see that you're polling RPM pretty fast, much faster than I have been able to on my E46s through the OBD port. Do you pull all of the data from the OBD port or do you get data from elsewhere?
  4. I regret selling my 330Ci a couple of years back so I'm looking to buy another. I'm not really too fussed option wise, but I would like a manual facelift coupe, it needs to be fairly rust free, and I'd like to see if I can find something in the Cambridgeshire / Suffolk / Essex area. Obviously the more options the car has, the better. Not fussed about mileage, would much have a clean car with high miles and lots of history. I also don't really have a budget as such as again I'd rather pay more for a cleaner car if I need to.
  5. The glovebox is three screws along the top, one screw behind the little fabric strap connected to the glove box, another on the exact opposite side, and the last is on the bottom left corner in the footwell next to the door. For the A pillar, you pop off the airbag strip to reveal 3 Torx screws. Once the screws are out you can pull the trim away from the pillar first at an angle, then pull out from the dash. The little strip covering the screws does have some tiny fragile clips that break easily so be careful of those. Once the glovebox is out its much easier to route a cable through the dash and to the stereo. There is plenty of room in the space between the glovebox and the radio to stick cables and such.
  6. Finally got around to hooking my unit up while its out of the car to find out what it is. It looks like its an Xtrons PF7346BA, MTCB-GS-V2.73, RK3188 running Android 4.4.4. Overall the unit is fine, it does what it is supposed to do, but there are a few things that I'm not really a fan of like the boot speed, level of control over sound (subwoofer), and just some clunky UI bits. Would selling this unit and buying a newer one help, or would I just receive a similar unit running a newer version of android? I've had a look at the Malaysk ROM, but not sure if this would help the situation?
  7. Just thought this was worth a quick update, I ended up ditching the android headunit due to sound quality, but found that supplying 12v on pin 16 on my radio loom powers the antenna and I get flawless FM reception. In this case I just piggy backed off of the sub remote on the headunit.
  8. I'll pick up one of those little powered amplifiers and give it a go. I don't really use the radio much to be honest, but its just the fact that it doesn't work thats bothering me
  9. Ah so something like this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PC5-136-BMW-Amplified-Fakra-Aerial-ISO-Adaptor-/290627388575?hash=item43aabe049f:m:mUx4J7cIA1A3YvK4SGIHPMg I always thought that the antenna had a built in amplifier in the C pillar and that it took power from the loom?
  10. Had my car for just over a week now, and I can't figure out why my android head unit doesn't seem to have an FM signal at all. Do these units not have the correct wire for the remote antenna power? Car has just the single antenna connector rather than two with one of them being power. Anyone able to point me in the right direction?
  11. Figured it was easier to present a list at a dealer than trying to remember everything, plus this way when I do finally get the 6 random screws I need I can figure out where they go Annoyingly I know some of this is going to be expensive at a dealer, so anything I can get from a breaker would be super helpful.
  12. I'm after a few coupe interior bits to fix up some dodgy audio install: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1sdepqlHksEKIkvN80zofhQHaU2R-sx5MtVEH-IWOW_8/edit?usp=sharing The spreadsheet lists everything I am after (I think) and I figured I'd be better off trying to find someone breaking a coupe before I get the rest from a dealer. If you have any of the parts on that sheet, or have a whole coupe interior, let me know
  13. Well, it finally found a new owner, hopefully it'll pop back up on here soon
  14. Anyone have a set of black M3 door cards? Only really after the front pair but if you're selling all 4 that would work too.
  15. So I used SSS Progman originally when I installed my LED tail lights to get the car coded correctly, and that was all fine. Now I've removed the LED tails and gone back to the standard bulbs, and I want to undo this retrofit. Loading up SSS Progman again gives me two alternative options for rear lights, "Rear Lights New" which has a description of facelift lights, and the other is "White rear lights". Basically want to know if one of these options will undo the LED tail light retrofit?
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