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Tim-Ci

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About Tim-Ci

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    330Ci Rag Top

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  1. It might be the actuator is causing the lack of power, if the ECU knows the boost isn't what it should be it might be limiting the fuel to prevent excessive smoke. Not an expert on the Diesels mind.
  2. Thanks, that's a useful bit of info. My red light was flashing too when I put something big in the boot and it pushed up against the roof storage box, the part you can raise and lower. I thought the roof had gone kerput but I just needed to raise and lower the box with the lever and it was fine again.
  3. I think 325s can use a genuine Hyundai MAF as it's the same part, and cheaper. I would also check the fuel trims, the LTFT. There are so many places for air leaks to occur, you need to verify that the fuel trim is correct. A non genuine or dodgy MAF could throw out the LTFT reading though unfortunately. Other than a MAF, the only other thing I can think of that can cause running problems and lack of power with no codes showing is cam sensors, these can play up when hot, that could be the key here. The O2 sensor code might just be an catalyst efficiency one, if it is that then it won't cause severe running problems, I imagine that was it as it hasn't come back again. This might help with the cam sensor line of thought: https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f18/2001-e46-330i-cam-sensor-symptoms-t77721/
  4. Nice, what S/C system have you gone for? Not sure what your setup will be but I moved my IAT sensor to the airbox from the manifold, the standard manifold location for the sensor and ECU map experiences heatsoak and causes timing to be pulled. Not sure you'd benefit though as the S/C setup might take this ito account and adjust accordingly. I basically bought a replacement sensor, drilled a hole in the airbox and pushed the new sensor in, then piggybacked the wiring from the manifold to the airbox. With the IAT sensor in the airbox it still experiences heatsoak, but nothing like with the sensor in the manifold. I feel that the level of heatsoak using the airbox is more representative of the actual air temperature entering the engine at full throttle when good timing control is needed. Using the original IAT location the temp. would be showing about 50-55C just cruising down the motorway on a hot day, but drop down to say 30-35C if I floored it for 30 seconds or so, so I think I was losing a lot of throttle crispness and pickup using the original IAT location. I've not noticed any major pinging with the IAT in the airbox, and power loss on a hot day is a lot less. I can hear just a touch of ping at very low revs (~1500rpm) if I floor it suddenly in lower gear, in an abrupt way to try and force it to happen, which I don't think will cause any harm whatsoever, other than that it's all good.
  5. Just to add there's also a block drain plug if you didn't know, as welll as the radiator drain plug. This will help remove extra coolant. Even with all drain plugs removed I could never get more than about 5 litres out. I am planning to do coolant changes every two years to overcome being unable to drain all the coolant.
  6. I'm sure others will add their thoughts too but I think there is basically no difference in fuel consumption, as the engines are basically the same design but with slightly more capacity in the 330. You might get around 1-2mpg worse in a 330, worst case, mainly in town driving. If you get a 330 6 speed then this should have better cruising economy than a 325 anyway as they all have a 5 speed box. The 330 5-speed revs lower than a 325 5 speed so I think the difference on the motorway would be negligible. Mine will get about 38mpg at 70mph on cruise in 6th, and that's with a calibrated mpg computer (yes I've got OCD!). It does have new pre cat O2 sensors though which gave me about 4mpg on the motorway - old ones had 150,000 miles and the exhaust started getting smelly. Only buy genuine BMW/Bosch if you ever need to do this job. Road tax is under £300 on the 330 too. High RON fuel helps with economy too on these cars, I've found Tesco momentum to work well, and it's cheap. Might want to use an occasional drop of fuel system cleaner or tank of VPower as a treat very now and then as it's got a very good detergent package to keep the engine clean, and has the anti-friction additive too.
  7. The engines I think. I've got a 6 cylinder one but I've heard many horror stories about the 318 engines. The 6 cylinder engines have issues too but they're usually not serious. Bit of cooling system TLC, radiator and water pump etc. A 320i might be worth considering as it's the 6 cylinder, it will use a bit more fuel though (3-5mpg worse as a rough guess). A 320d might be more reliable on the whole to be honest than a 318i, although I'd ask someone who owns one to comment on that as mine is a 330i. Edit to add - whoops I can see you've got a 320d.
  8. Glad you got it sorted. Yes that sounds perfect, mine shows has roughly -1 bar of pressure without the predal pressed with both the factory sensor and replacement. 80 bar sounds like firm pedal pressure with the engine on, I think I got it up to about 170 bar-ish by ramming the pedal as hard as I could.
  9. The gear ratios are very similar but the diff. ratio is different between a 320 and 330, so yours will rev higher than a 330 would normally if you keep the same diff. Some people like that though as it helps acceleration, but it will lose you a bit of economy compared to having a 330 diff, perhaps 1-2mpg at motorway speed. A 6 speed 330 box will help a bit with cruising economy too, not sure how easy they are to fit though. If you fit a 330i diff. you will lower the revs to those of a 330 basically, and gain a bit of mpg but lose in gear acceleration compared to the 320 diff. (still better than standard with a 320 engine and diff I would imagine though) . I think the 330 gearing (diff) is a bit too tall personally so the 320 diff might make for a nicer drive if you don't mind losing a bit of potential economy, like what they did to the American E46 ZHP models to improve acceleration). I have a 6 speed box though, so have low revs in top gear on the motorway. With a 5 speed I wouldn't want to raise the revs personally, it's totally your choice though of course..... Here's some gearbox/diff. info, it doesn't list the 320i 'vert only the 323i though, I fairly certain your will be geared very similarly to a 323i (i.e. basically the same as all the other models from 2nd-5th gear - so it's the diff. that makes the difference (sorry!)): http://www.bokchoys.com/differential/GearRatios_E46.htm
  10. LED probably, although they might look too blue, unless you can get guaranteed 5000K ones. The more LEDs in the bulb the brighter usually. Standard LEDs might upset the blown bulb detection on the car, so if in doubt it would be safer to get canbus ones so the car doesn't throw a wobbler.
  11. Just to add a C110 scanner is a cheap and easy way to diagnose systems on the E46, it can show the DSC pressure readings too: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323212283754
  12. I know it's normally considered a waste of time to fit non genuine sensors to the E46, but these DSC sensors worked just fine for me: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ABS-DSC-STABILITY-CONTROL-Pressure-Sensor-For-BMW-E46-3serie-OEM-34521164458/153438397599?fits=Plat_Gen%3AE46&epid=19031288571&hash=item23b9a4249f:g:cLQAAOSwxc5cpEtS https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-ABS-DSC-Pressure-Sensor-For-BMW-E46-E60-E61-z3-3-5-6-series-34521164458-UK/401783467989?fits=Plat_Gen%3AE46&hash=item5d8c292fd5:g:hEYAAOSwcHRc~hYD I took a punt when one of my sensors went bad. What sealed it for me is that the pattern of the glue in the picture looked identical to a genuine part. The picture is showing ATE marked on it which is a genuine factory fit BMW braking brand. I replaced a bad factory sensor with one of the above, and got my diagnostic hooked up. Well it showed exactly the same values at all times between the genuine (good) sensor and the new one I fitted to replace the broken one, e.g. 0 bar with no brake pressure, and same at 80 bar, 100 bar, 150 bar as the genuine sensor in the other bank, with pressure on the pedal. If the readings weren't the same I would have got a 'definitely genuine' sensor instead. It's worth a try based on my experience, worked well for 18 months so far. Also you can replace the sensors without bleeding the brakes, I think I read this on a Z4 forum. What you do is loosen the sensor, apply moderate brake pressure (engine off). Then unscrew the old sensor, having the new one ready to install. Once the old sensor comes out, quickly screw the new one in (really as quickly as possible, keep rags underneath to to mop up any fluid). I used an axle stand wedged between the driver's seat the brake pedal to keep brake pressure on. Obviously do this at your own risk and it there's any doubt over whether the brake pedal is not as firm as before (i.e. air has got in), bleed the brakes before driving the car. Having INPA or DIS is recommended to bleed if required when parts have been removed from the ABS system or upstream of it, as they can buzz the the ABS valves to clear any last air bubbles from inside the ABS unit.
  13. Tim-Ci

    New E46

    If I had to suggest one mod. which makes the car nicer to drive it would be to buy a Clubsport gearknob if yours had a manual gearbox. These are stubbier and heavier than the standard ones, and make the gearchange a lot more positive.
  14. Tim-Ci

    New E46

    Just to add for your other points - what momo says on the screenwash sounds good. Also I guess yours has black leather you might be able to get away with some leather paint, the colour should match quite well. The leather paint is a colour matched flexible paint that bonds to leather, and is extremely durable. Basically you buy a kit with the specific colour to match your leather, clean and dry the leather, dab on the paint with a sponge and let it dry. If there's minor scuffing then this should tidy things up nicely. I even did this on my burgundy seats and it worked extremely well, although the colour was slightly off, should be much easier to get a good match in black though. I've seen the leather paint used on cars shows several times (Wheeler Dealers etc.) and it can really transform shabby leather seats. You can also buy cheap leather replacement armrest covers on EBay to replace yours, or if it's just showing white through the black colour you could try the leather paint which should sort it out. I had a tear in my bolster and used a leather repair kit with a patch, glue and coloured fller. It took me about a day but I managed to make the bolster holes look tidy, then painted them with the leather paint and you wouldn't notice it now unless looking for it.
  15. Tim-Ci

    New E46

    Congrats on your purchase. If yours is a facelift model then you might have the dreaded mirrors with ribbon cables. The facelift models came in from some time in 2003 onwards. Mine had mirror issues when I bought it, they didn't work and the passenger side mirror liked to dip itself to the floor and stay pointing down - the fuse had been pulled so they didn't do anything using the switch. If yours are playing up the fuse might have been remove to stop them going haywire. The mirror motor assemblies with the ribbon cables are about £180 each, well they were a couple of years ago for me (Cotswold or Hereford BMW are site sponsors I think and offer a discount to get to around this price), don't bother with second hand unless it's guaranteed to work, as the facelift mirrors are notoriously poor, and stripping them down to sell on could cause them to fail. To replace the mirror units you need to remove them from the mirror casing too, and usually the painted mirror cap clips break, but some good adhesive can bond them back on. If you remove the mirror glass (unclips) you might be able to see some corroded ribbon cables (green copper rust), or you might need to remove the doorcard and remove the mirror completely to strip down and inspect. If you're very lucky you might be able to repair the ribbon cable, sand some of the clear lacquer off the ribbon to expose the copper, and solder a small piece of wire across the break. If you do have the facelift model it's really important to know that the driver's side mirror electronics on those controls BOTH mirrors, in my case I even had an error code for the passenger side, but it was all caused by the dodgy cable in the driver's side mirror. So if in doubt it's best to replace the driver's side mirror motor unit and see what happens. Also, if/when you have working mirrors, NEVER fold them (with the manual fold type). Doing this caused my replacement unit ribbon cable to tear, even though I fitted it correctly. Luckily all genuine BMW parts have a two year warranty if fitted correctly, so BMW fitted another replacement. If you use BMW parts and fit yourself, and they fail, BMW will do the labour to replace the part again it it was installed correctly, pretty good I think (despite the crappy mirrors).
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