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About Tim-Ci

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    330Ci Rag Top

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  1. Black 330Ci - Super Deluxe 'sleeper'

    ^^ This is where it starts to get exciting? Hope it works out well.... I was intrigued by the intensive wash stalk you mentioned, so I Googled it. I found this post by someone with lots of information, might have some information to help you: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=475422 I realise now in your earlier post you were probably asking for something to 'buff up' the doorcard with, not retrim your seatbacks. I always use Poorboys Natural Look dressing on my interior trim. It cleans and gives a satin-ish shine, not too glossy, and works okay on leather too. Here's a link to it: https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/p/-/-/-/-/?552999280&0&cc5_116&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIovvJkrX53gIVAud3Ch0q_wH0EAQYASABEgIQRPD_BwE N.B. I never use the spray gun, just the normal flip top lid and then squeeze it onto a small sponge. One thing that I noticed on mine, is that when it went past 140,000 miles, the exhaust fume smell became stronger over about 10,000 miles (no air leaks causing it). My O2 sensors were getting worn. I replaced the full set for about £200, access is tight and I found a flexi head O2 spanner need for the post cat ones . Yours might not be suffering from poor O2 sensors yet but I thought I'd mention it. I did the full set, some people say you only need to do the pre-cat ones really to improve mpg. The mpg on my 10 mile commute went from about 25 to about 29 mpg straight away by doing the O2 sensors, so clearly the engine is wasting a lot less fuel now. Hope the supercharger fitting goes well!
  2. DSC Sensor 2 change - please help!

    Yes time will tell. If I get a few years out of it I will be happy, and it will be a good saving over a BMW sensor which don't always have a satisfactory lifespan either in my opinion.
  3. That's a new one to me, good to know, thanks. Yes I expect the ECU was expecting a certain change in airflow reported by the MAF when it operated the ICV, and the dodgy MAF wasn't reporting the correct change in airflow. So the ECU threw a wobbler, but decided the ICV wasn't working properly, instead the MAF. It is very common for non BMW or non genuine brand sensors to cause problems on the E46, certainly engine sensors but also things like parking sensors too. Just for info in case anyone else needs one, the genuine MAF brand is VDO/Siemens.
  4. DSC Sensor 2 change - please help!

    Well perhaps the branding is stamped in after moulding?. I think this could be a nice find. The build quality and pressure reading produced compared to the genuine one impresses me, it really is pretty much identical (within say 1%) all the way from the 0-150bar that I have seen reported. It does mention genuine in the EBay ad, that could be a clue as to the source of the sensors. Usually there a no short cuts or cheap options with E46 sensors, but this might be one I hope!
  5. I would be temped to believe the fault code, perhaps the ICV is not working well when hot, and might not be changing the air flow in the way the ECU wants it to. You could try a second hand one? I've never come across an ICV fault code for an E46, so I don't think failing MAFs, O2 sensors or DISAs would cause it, as these commonly fail, but noone seems to ever have an ICV code caused by it. The ICV is used from idle up to around 2000rpm so your symptoms would suggest it could be playing up. Mine has some jerkiness which I think might be ICV related, with a new MAF, O2 sensors, but no code logged (yet). I would check your fuel trims on a wram (not hot) engine though, if the LTFT is within a 3 percent of 0, and the STFT is within say +/- 6 at all times, after the engine has been running for 5 minutes, I would be happy with that. If the numbers are outside this range, it MIGHT be that you have an air leak which is causing the ICV code, but this is something I've never heard of, and air leaks are very common, usually they set a fuel trim code.
  6. e46 comfort opening issues

    My key fob opening/closing is a bit dodgy too, and the interior buttons work fine. I fitted a new battery about 18 months ago so I doubt it's that. No idea why, the buttons are a bit stiff though so perhaps my finger relaxes on them after a few seconds and interrupts the operation.
  7. inlet cam sensor

    The M54 engine is absolutely notorious for needing genuine sensors to work properly. I would try and find out the genuine sensor brand and then buy that type, quite often it's Siemens/VDO for the engine sensors.
  8. I have an intermittant jerkiness on a cold engine when I use heavy throttle in 1st gear. Mine also does the rev bouncing around idle when I am doing parking manoeuvres sometimes. I've never had any codes. I think the ICV on mine might be a bit tired, though I don't have another one to throw on to test this out. I have cleaned it like you (and the throttle body too) have but no improvement. As your symptoms are at low revs the ICV could be the cause too for you. I think the ICV by itself below about 1500rpm at low engine load, and the throttle plate is opened after that. I have no coasting issues at all, at 2000rpm I think the car should be using overrun fuel cutoff mode, so should not be injecting any fuel or creating any power. However in 1st or 2nd perhaps it does bring in fuel sooner as the revs drop fast in those gears. An ICV problem could be messing up the fuelling at those revs. It's funny you have no codes, perhaps the ICV is just giving the ECU duff position readings but the ECU has no way of knowing they are duff and storing a fault code.
  9. DSC Sensor 2 change - please help!

    No, I think it was unbranded. However, the look of the materials and finish looked so very similar to the genuine ones it wouldn't surprise me if they're rolling off the same production line. The quality of the sensor reading all the way from no pedal pressure to loads of pedal pressure impresses me though, it's pretty much identical to the other (genuine) sensor.
  10. Rain/Light sensor issues

    Not sure about coding, it might depend if you get the same revision of sensor. If your auto wipers work after plugging it in chances are it will be okay. There is a rain sensor initialise item in INPA / DIS though, which will allow the car to learn the range of the indivdual sensor fitted. I did this procedure after having a replacement windscreen fitted and it has helped with the accuracy, the wipers were coming on too little before I did that. Edit to add - the initialisation is needed when changing windscreen, in case the glass has different optical properties, you might get lucky just swapping the sensor as your windscreen glass it the same, if you don't have access to INPA or DIS.
  11. DSC Sensor 2 change - please help!

    I got lucky with a pair of mole grips when I replaced my DSC sensor recently - the top one (not sure if this is 1 or 2). I kept moderate pressure on the brake pedal with an axle stand wedged between the pedal and front seat (engine off) and quickly swapped the sensors so air entry was minimal or nonexistant, the pedal feels fine, although I will change the fluid and do the DIS software ABS system bleed thing soon just to be sure. At least I have DSC now that winter is approaching. I fitted this type of sensor from EBay, for a bargain price: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OEM-ABS-DSC-Pressure-Sensor-For-BMW-E46-3-series-34521164458-UK-NEW-ORIGINAL/291889783264?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 It looks VERY similar to the genuine one, and gives exactly the same readings as the other (factory fit) sensor, so all is well now. I know the advice is normally to steer clear of non genuine for pretty mcuh all E46 sensors, but this one seems fine, and at £22 I am willing to see how it performs. I can check the pressure data on my OBD tool to have confidence it continues to work well. I was quite careful in tightentening the DSC sensor, as it looks like it screws into aluminium, I did it up firmly but didn't carry on cranking it once it felt firmly tightened. I would estimate I put about 30Nm of torque on it.
  12. Whine from disa area?

    I have heard a dying CCV valve can cause a load groaning noise. One way to test the CCV is to open the oil cap with the engine running, with a hot engine. Place your palm over the oil filler hole to seal it. You shold feel a very slight suction. If you feel loads of suction then the CCV valve is suspect. Mine makes a whoosh noise about 1-2 seconds after turning the engine off, apparently this is normal.
  13. Black 330Ci - Super Deluxe 'sleeper'

    I like your plans for the car CoupEdin, expecially the supercharging part. One thing that really improved my interior was to cover the black seat back moudinga in black (genuine) alcantara, it just makes the interior feel a bit more classy imho. It took a few hours, and came out extremely well, and still looks fine after about 3 years. I used a spray contact adhesive to mount the alcantara, and found out that brake cleaner (luckily) removes any overspray without discolouring the alcantara.
  14. E46 330i - Audi A4 B8 tail pipes

    Nice guide, thanks. I just fitted some of these to my 330Ci 'vert. They look a lot better and the added girth () makes them look like a quality aftermarket exhaust. The only slight issue I had was the EBay Audi A4 B8 pipes I bought were both the same length, so really I could have done with taking off a 40mm deep slot instead of a 50mm deep one to get the offset length look. Anyhow I just pulled the right pipe out by about 8mm and it's still fairly secure so that will do it for me and give the right look. I gave them a good coat of long lasting Collinite wax so hopefully that will preserve them for a while and make them easier to clean and less likely to get stained. The pipes shouldn't get too hot for wax to stay intact I think, probs no hotter than my bonnet on a hot sunny day, well maybe the tips will but not the bulk of the pipes surface.
  15. That sounds really unfortunate Mick. I changed mine for Eibach Pros recently, and the rear ones were original I believe. I'm fairly sure my service history is complete, it mentions a front spring, and rear shocks, but not rear springs. The original (I think) rear springs on mine were in a bit of a state at the bottom, very rusty, but hadn't quite broken yet, at 13 years / 155,000 miles. In your position, I'd be wondering whether there is something else causing them to break prematurely, or whether the quality of the springs supplied by bmw now has gone down, or even if they are supplying the wrong ones - there are multiple combinations of rear springs with a different number and colour of stripes on them. Talking of the Eibachs, I got the 'vert full set for about £115, link here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eibach-Pro-Kit-Federn-BMW-3-E46-Limousine-Coupe-Cabrio-Touring-E2067-140/142653740889?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 They have a MILLION MILE WARRANTY so even if you just have the worst luck for springs snapping, then you could get free replacements in future. I must say that after fitting the springs, and adjusting the front camber slightly and toe, the handling seems a lot better, softer ride over smaller bumps, and less body roll - it steers a lot better too! They are progressive springs so have a soft part of their travel and a stiff part. Next job for me to sharpen it up a bit is to replace the front lower steering joint for about £100 in parts. The only downside to the eibachs is that front sits a bit lower, about 15-20mm, so the front aero spoilers under the bumper catch on my driveway. That said the front did sit too high visually before so it looks better now. The rear has a negligible drop but I think that's partly becuase my old springs had sagged over time, so compared to relatively new spring I imagine you'd get a 10-15mm drop on the rear. You can see in my signature picture below how mine looked before on M Sport springs, the driver's side was even lower at the rear. Good luck with it Mick.