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gizmo

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About gizmo

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Current Car
    BMW 330i Sports (Auto)
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Derbyshire
  • Interests
    Photography (using medium format films)
  1. OK, but is there no easy way of testing which it is other than what I've already done? Sounds like I'll need to pay for a garage to work it out? I don't want to replace pulley 1, then pulley 2 if it turns out not to be pulley 1, then tensioner X if it turns out not to be pulley 1 or 2, and so on??
  2. It does indeed, yes. I couldn't demo that because I filmed it on my own, but yes. When you say "tensioner", which bit do you mean exactly? There are two pulleys near alternator - one top, one bottom, When I release tension on the belt and spin with my hand, both 'seem' to be OK. Not saying they are fine...just saying they seem to be fine. Is there another tensioner that I perhaps need to check besides these two, or do you mean that one of those two is called a tensioner? I thought they were both pulleys but perhaps not.
  3. Hi Can anyone give me a pointer as to what this noise is coming from? Your instant assumption would be that it is the alternator, but that has been replaced twice recently. The one that was on it from new broke, and I fitted a new one from GSF Car Parts. But that new one subsequently failed and I took it back and they confirmed the bearings had gone and exchanged it for another. And yet this noise persist. Whilst replacing the alternator the first time I also replaced the belt (the big one that goes round the pulleys and alternator etc) so I doubt it is that either. It is definately the exact same model of belt as that which I removed and it is definately back on the same way as the original was taken off. The two pulleys 'seem' to be OK in as much as if I take the belt off and spin them, they run freely and make no noise. But then I guess that is not the same as the stress they are put under during engine use. The noise is not persistant all of the time. It usually starts after a short burst of more severe acceleration, but once it starts it tens to stay on until the engine is turned off. As you can see from the video, is not something that starts and stops with motion either. In the video the car is stationary and idle reving and the noise is fairly persistant. I wondered if it may be to do with the fan. The sound seems to be from that region but then it is very hard to pin point the exact location. When I took the video I moved the phone around to ensure the noise level could more easily be pinpointed. Any guidance welcomed. Thanks Video here : https://my.pcloud.com/publink/show?code=XZcSHMZFDQvvGa7V10mXFz9MPiS1h2Da3ik
  4. Thanks guys for the pointers. Those that seem to deliver tyres (like www.oponeo.co.uk ), how do you get them fitted? I assume there's certain places that will fit tyres for you? Or do you guys have all the gear to do it yourselves?
  5. Hi all Just wanting to get some feelers as to where you folks generally get your tyres for your motors? I have a BMW 330i Sports petrol automatic. I'm not a brand snob regarding tyres and prefer sturdy grip over speed. Is there a particular retailer people recommend for their tyres?
  6. Gents I sorted it in the end, and thanks for the help. I bled the system using the bleed valve...quite a bit of air come out. Continued until it ran as solid fluid, topped it up some more, and all seems to have been well. I did notice a bit of smoke a few times if I lifted the bonet coming from the side of the engine (opposite to where the alternator is) and I worried, as you have said, that I might have blown a seal or something. But that seems to have eased off of late so I think (and hope) it was some spilt oil burning off because I changed the oil and filter while it was up on the jacks. I didn't have a funnel and so a few desert spoon sized spills took place. I tried to wipe most of it off but some did trickle down the side. Since doing the work I've driven it on two 110 mile trips and two 15 mile trips, and so far, the temp has remained at central and the cars been fine. I'll keep an eye on the oil level though just in case. Thanks again for the advice.
  7. Hoping someone can help. Car: BMW 330i Sports Automatic. X-reg (year 2000). The other day, the radiator light came on the dashboard. I opened the cap on the black tank (expansion tank I believe) and noticed low water level, so topped up. As I did so, water came out the bottom but the tray prevented me from seeing where. I attempted to drive it home but it overheated after about 3 miles so I turned it off and got recovery to take care home. Next day I removed bottom tray and noticed water coming out Return Hose (smaller hose that runs below alternator) where it joins the expansion tank. So I got a new one and fitted it (quite a big job as it turned out). I bought a 5 litre bottle of coolant and poured in 2,5 litres into the black expansion tank, with the intention of putting 2.5 litres of water in too, but the coolant level was already to the brim. I took it out for a test drive this evening and within 3 miles, it was overheating again. I pulled into a restaurant and got 4 litres of water that I also poured in gradually. The level of water would gradually reduce over the seconds...it just kept going in. Eventually, it settled. I restarted the car and drove home. I kept expecting the heat reading to get high again but it didn't seem to...stayed at mid point. But all of a sudden, the radiator level light on the dash came on again about a mile from home, but the heat level did not rise. There does not appear to be a leak...I see no water coming out. So now I am confused. The temperature seems to have settled but the radiator light has come again but it if its not leaking out, it must surely be full? Maybe the engine would get hot again soon after but I didn't want to risk getting stranded so I just parked it back at home on the drive at this point. The fan spins and it has had a new belt fitted the other day...the one that spins the alternator and water pump. So, my assumption is an air-lock that I caused during filling after the new hose...which has now perhaps got itself free? Or is it more likely to be water pump? I have no experience of modern radiator systems...the last time I had radiator problems was a 1977 Opel Kadett when I was 21 that was easy to work on and fix! Any advice?
  8. Well I got a new alternator and replaced the old one. Engine now seems run :-) No warnings lights on dash, and car seems to have plenty of power etc. But there's a problem...the new alternator is unusually loud. I tried putting the old belt back on instead of the new one in case the new one was too tight, but no difference. For anyone who has the time to download the 159Mb video I recorded of it, I'd appreciate your views as to whether this sounds normal for a reconditioned alternator, or if I should send it back? https://my.pcloud.com/publink/show?code=XZhvmbZIQmkf7KBuIkwhIlrz2aqfj5z2LR7 Also, the retailer who sold the alternator have asked me to "check the alternator tensioner". COrrect me if I'm missing something, but aren't they self tensioning? So if I just assembled the alternator in the reverse steps as I took it out, I shouldn't need to check\change\adjust any of the tensioners should I? Thanks
  9. I took battery to garage and they said it fine. Told them symptoms...they agreed with you guys. Likely alternator. So, I have spent some time removing the alternator with some success which makes a change! I need to get the correct replacemement for it. The one out the car has the following details on the label : BMW 7 501 593 VALEO 70/120A 14V 029971 S42AN00 SG12B029 Which I think this will match from EuroCarParts. The only think confusing me is that ECP list 3 alternators for my car. The one linked to, and this one. (and a third thats £500 so no point looking at that!). One says 80 amps, the other says 120 amps. The label on my existing one says 70/120A...so does it matter which I get?
  10. When you say "for sure", how do you know? I only ask to save me time and money...not challenging you.
  11. It's 17 months old (the battery) which I know is not that old, but given it was the cheapest line they had that was powerful enough for that car, maybe that is the problem (I say hopefully!!). It was only a local car parts shop as well - not a major branded place like GSF Car Parts or Euro Car Parts. And the battery isn't particularly branded either (Lion, I think), so it's not a BOSCH or anything. It cost me about £70 if I remember rightly. Looking at ECP and GSF, batteries for that car range between £110 - £250. If it is the battery (and yes, I'll take it to a garage to have it tested before replacing it), can anyone recommend a particular battery for the car that are know to be good and reliable? Or doesn't it actually make much difference? There's this BOSCH one : would that be suggested? http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/BMW_3+Series_3.0_2000/p/car-parts/electrical/car-electrics-and-car-lighting/car-battery/?444771107&1&414bc9c661da3f57201caff37811a37754a9403e&000020
  12. Hi Got a BMW 330i Sports (Auto), year 2000. It's been fine until today when the red car battery light appeared on the dashboard even after the engine was running. Got about 8 miles and then it started to lose power and stopped...luckily only 400 yards from home! So I managed to push it home, just. Electric metre shows between 9-10 volts when its off. I gather a battery should be between 12-13 volts. About two hours later, I turned the key and it started again, and while it was running, the battery showed 10 volts, but it soon died again. And again, when off, 9 volts. So my assumption is the battery is faulty, but I only bought it about a year ago. Granted, it was not a top end battery, so maybe it's just not up to running such a powerful car. But I'm also wondering if its the alternator, which is much more expensive. What do people think?
  13. Have you guys got any advice\instructions on the full range of steps to take? I gather the rust and rotton stuff is generally taken off with a sander\grinder head (there's a specific grinder head I think? Do you know it's name?), then it should be treated with some kind of stopper\sealer (again, what is the appropriate stuff to use), then the bodge is fitted, then its sanded with a series of fine sandpaper but again, I suspect it's specialist sandpaper for the task? My Googling didn't reveal a particularly useful step-by-step guidance.
  14. Hi I'd very much like to have a go at restoring my two wheel arches on my BMW 330i sports. I realise this is not something most people would want to do when they haven't done it before, but I like to attempt things myself where I can and generally know what my limits are. For example, I just paid £300 to have the rear brake pipes replaced because that is not something I can do myself. I have read a few posts and seen a couple of YouTube videos, and the process doesn't seem too hard providing that no welding is needed. I wonder if any of you could look at the photos attached and see if you think that looks like a job that an amateaur can do hisself? I have had a quote for both sides and it was £300. He didn't seem to think the damage was "too bad" so I assume that means he thinks it is something that can be fixed without welding. Any of you have experience at bodging and sanding and spraying? I have a garage to do the spraying in.
  15. Hi all Just joined the forum...I saw that so many members are UK based so hopefully get some better community spirit here than elsewhere and might even be able to join in with one of those day meetings or whatever (my Dad is an MG nut, and he was always going out for days with all his 'MG mates' but that pre-Internet days). I have a BMW 330i Sports (Auto). It's an X reg so about 16 years old but I love it. I've recently done a lot of work on the brakes : new brake disks, near side calliper replaced and so on, and I noticed the other day the brakes were really not good, despite all this new work!! I thought I must have broke something. Checked the fluid level and it was near empty! Turns out my rear brake pipe has split (in fairness the MOT reported eroding pipes the last two years running!). Anyway, I got it to a garage and asked them for a complete replacement of the rear brake pipes (no point just doing one side if the other is also frail and will split next week or something!) and they say it's a £300 job - 4 hours work. I have no idea when it comes to brake pipe replacememnt. Never had to do it. I gather it can be a fiddle so maybe this sounds about right? Does it seem expensive or about right for the work being undertaken? It makes no odds because I've asked them to go ahead with the work now, but I want to know if the garage I'm using seems to be providing reasonable costs or not, becuase it's a new garage I have not used before (because it was nearer to my house and I didn't fancy driving far with poor braking) Thanks Gizmo
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