B.Merr

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About B.Merr

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  • Current Car
    320d
  1. 330d Stalling. - MAP Sensor ?

    Failing fuel rail pressure sensor gave similar symptoms on my 320d. Scan for error codes, if something related to low fuel pressure is present and you've already swapped the fuel filter and secondary pump, it will be that. My MAP sensor has been fine - that one monitors air pressure inside the intake manifold, so guess you'd see error codes related to low air pressure.
  2. A few running rough issues 320d

    Sounds like a leak in the air charge pipework. Where the rubber air charge pipes enter and exit the inter cooler the fit should be tight. Release the clamp on both pipes, pull pipes outwards, you'll see a rubber sealing gasket - there will be a small amount of oil dripping, this is normal. Clean up each pipe end and reinstall, check both connections made are rock solid, take for a test drive. The rubber sealing gaskets should be replaced if they appear squashed or torn. If symptoms persist the air leak is somewhere else in the air charge pipework, possibly a split or a loose connection. You can unclip connections to remove pipe sections, allowing inspection of each pipe. Good luck! (worth getting a diagnostic tool, as per previous post, air charge leak usually throws codes relating to 'low pressure')
  3. "4530 charge pressure control" is something I encountered when there was a small leak in the air charge pipework. I'd removed the inter cooler to clean it and one end of it wasn't clipped in correctly when reassembled, causing air to escape. Worth checking you haven't accidentally disconnected a charge pipe connection, also look for a split in a charge hose. Maybe the intake manifold wasn't perfectly sealed down onto the cylinder head following glow plug replacement, which again will cause pressurised air to escape.
  4. Agree with incredirog, in that these engines will always kick out black smoke under load. Do you see the engine management light illuminated when the egr vacuum hose is disconnected? Sure I once read eu3 M47's can bypass the egr without issue, whereas the eu4 variant trips the engine management light when the same hose is unplugged. Some simple yet effective maintenance I did which reduced black smoke for my eu4 M47are as follows: Replace egr thermostat, replace cooling system thermostat, clean egr, clean intake manifold. The intercooler pipes can be unclipped and reinserted easily, gives an opportunity for close visual inspection - easy to access pipes etc if you lift out the fan and shroud first, which is really simple.
  5. E46 Glow plug relay fault?

    A replacement controller costs 45 quid and fitting is easy enough provided you don't mind scrabbling around under the car on axle stands for an hour or so. I replaced mine and all four glow plug errors cleared on rescan, meaning the plugs were fine but the controller had failed. Priming the fuel pumps several times before turning over to start signals something is not right, I would guess with fuel delivery or fuel pressure sensors. Suggest replacing the controller anyway as it's duff. Clear codes and rescan after a short run to get a picture of what's going on. With regard to starting in cold weather, check out this vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFyHt1JTKwY
  6. DSC Sensor 2 change - please help!

    Hi - A 27mm open ended/ring spanner is useful to loosen the sensor. I had a go at this last year and all is still well with my 320d. See the last couple of posts in this thread for a description of steps taken to replace: http://www.e46zone.com/forum/topic/65034-the-dsc-trio-3-lights-on-dash-the-basics-done-but-still-no-luck/?tab=comments#comment-926802
  7. Calipers

    Looked into caliper rebuilding 4 years ago, combination of laziness and lack of courage led me to buy a caliper for each corner, total cost £250 and I had to hand in the old calipers too (it was either GSF or ECP, can't remember which one). I'd be inclined to have a stab at rebuilding these days. My understanding is the piston and bore can be cleaned up with wire wool or similar, the only new part required being a rubber boot. Looks easy enough to pop the piston out using pressure from the brake pedal, my concerns are how easy it is to reinstall the piston and to refit the rubber boot - are those two steps difficult? Any tips?
  8. 320d downpipe

    Surprisingly no gaskets specified. I researched this over and over, no gaskets shown on realoem. Asked the downpipe supplier too. When I removed the original pipe there wasn't a gasket visible. Personally, due to the fume leak, I reckon the downpipe to turbo connection on mine would benefit from a gasket of some type.
  9. Splash Shield Screws and Fixers

    I bought these a few months back, as several of the fastenings where missing/shot and I didn't like the idea of the splash shield falling off on a motorway journey! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-3-Series-E46-UNDERTRAY-CLIPS-SCREWS-ENGINE-UNDER-COVER-SPLASH-GUARD-SHIELD/171916325077?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
  10. 320d downpipe

    Quick update, I've had to get under the car twice since installing this downpipe, due to exhaust fumes leaking from where the pipe meets the turbo. It's been seated and with exhaust paste 3 times now but always gives out after a couple of weeks or so. I suspect the mating flange is not finished to the same precision as the original bmw downpipe, leading to a poor fit, needing loads of exhaust paste...which eventually cracks under heat and stress. Now considering removal of the downpipe to see if grinding down the flange slightly will help get a better connection. The car is definitely a bit quicker with this downpipe, just annoying that those nasty fumes come into the cabin through the heating system...which is the reason I replaced the downpipe in the first place!!!
  11. Coolant Bleeding

    When I came to replace the thermostat I researched coolant system bleeding, did as per 2clubsp's advice and also had the car parked on a steepish upward incline. With the cap off and engine running you should be able to see coolant squirting back into the reservoir.
  12. When vacuuming the interior this afternoon, noticed the floor mat in the front passenger footwell was wringing wet. Lifted out the mat, carpet underneath is sodden. Spent an hour trawling the internet for potential causes, failed vapour barrier behind door card seems common so ran three watering can loads of water at the front passenger window. Then inspected the front passenger door seals, underside of door card - all dry. Next ran several watering cans of water onto the middle of the windscreen then lifted the bonnet for inspection. Popped the pollen filter cover off and saw the filter itself was drenched. Inspected the tray in which the filter is housed and both drain points (the ones with the rubber flaps) are clear. Looked around the engine bay some more and noticed signs of water in the void immediately to the right of the pollen filter housing. Assume this void would have the steering column through it on a lhd car. In this void there is some sound deadening material clipped of glued to the bulkhead, the bottom half inch of this material is wet. Water appears to drain into a 20mm diameter hole in the base of this void. Is it ok for the pollen filter to be wet? If the front passenger door vapour barrier seal is good, what is the next most common place for water to enter the cabin and wet the front passenger footwell? No sunroof on the car. Heater works fine and a/c cools as expected. Haven't checked the coolant level as yet but no low coolant lights illuminated in the dash. Any advice appreciated.
  13. E46 320d. Inline fuel pump problems.

    The inline pump must run constantly because when it failed on mine (at around 110k miles) I was driving at 40mph and the engine unexpectedly cut out! Picked up a replacement pattern part from ECP at the time, 30 mins to replace including raising and lowering - relatively simple diy fix. The replacement pump has always been significantly noisier than the original. Sometimes the pitch of the whining/buzzing noise varies too, but it's been reliable for 50k miles now.
  14. 320d with hardly no power

    Hi Daz - Did you replace the actuator in the end, if yes did that resolve the running problems?