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B.Merr

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About B.Merr

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  • Current Car
    320d
  1. ...although I've just noticed this on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RADIATOR-FAN-CONTROL-MODULE-BMW-3-E46-1998-2006-17117561757-17117510085-7503761-/183231425713
  2. I had the same predicament a year or so ago. Seems the control unit, which is exposed to the elements and corrodes, can't be purchased on it's own. I bought a quality replacement fan unit for £165. On the plus side, it's a five minute job to swap new for old. I guess there's a possibility the control unit can be carefully opened, cleaned up and some soldering performed to repair - I don't own a soldering iron so this option was closed to me. There is an option in INPA to test the electric fan in isolation, which is handy.
  3. Congrats on getting the engine running! Erratic starting will most probably be down to a faulty sensor / bad electrical connection to a sensor. If you haven't done so already, now the car is drivable it's worth clearing all error codes, taking for a 10 min drive then rescanning, will give an accurate picture of what's going on with the DDE. I replaced the glow plug controller a year ago or so, 40 quid for a quality part, access to the controller is a bit awkward (even from underneath). Afterwards all glow plug errors disappeared. I've also replaced the belts, they cost about a tenner each, fifteen min job. Haven't had need to replace the crankshaft pulley as yet, but read elsewhere the primary challenges are 1 - locking the crankshaft/flywheel and 2 - applying the necessary force to undo the nut holding it in place. With regard to an MOT, if I get advisories they're always for one of: tyres, braking system, suspension components. Simple fact is most highly stressed parts and parts exposed to weathering on cars of this age are usually worn out.
  4. Get back under the car and double check the fuel filter is installed correctly (from memory there are 'IN' and 'OUT' stamps at opposite ends). If you can hear the primer pump whining away before attempting to start then at least you know it's electrical connection hasn't been accidentally dislodged when replacing the fuel filter. Lifter pump in the fuel tank failing? Mine had erratic running and occasional starting issues a while back, lots of error codes relating to low fuel pressure - established the fuel rail pressure sensor had failed. Replaced it and the fix was instantaneous. Yes it will start and run with the MAF sensor unplugged. Sounds like either fuel is not being delivered to the engine or engine sensors are erroneously informing the DDE that fuel isn't being delivered. PS Don't worry about the glow plugs for now.
  5. Failing fuel rail pressure sensor gave similar symptoms on my 320d. Scan for error codes, if something related to low fuel pressure is present and you've already swapped the fuel filter and secondary pump, it will be that. My MAP sensor has been fine - that one monitors air pressure inside the intake manifold, so guess you'd see error codes related to low air pressure.
  6. Sounds like a leak in the air charge pipework. Where the rubber air charge pipes enter and exit the inter cooler the fit should be tight. Release the clamp on both pipes, pull pipes outwards, you'll see a rubber sealing gasket - there will be a small amount of oil dripping, this is normal. Clean up each pipe end and reinstall, check both connections made are rock solid, take for a test drive. The rubber sealing gaskets should be replaced if they appear squashed or torn. If symptoms persist the air leak is somewhere else in the air charge pipework, possibly a split or a loose connection. You can unclip connections to remove pipe sections, allowing inspection of each pipe. Good luck! (worth getting a diagnostic tool, as per previous post, air charge leak usually throws codes relating to 'low pressure')
  7. "4530 charge pressure control" is something I encountered when there was a small leak in the air charge pipework. I'd removed the inter cooler to clean it and one end of it wasn't clipped in correctly when reassembled, causing air to escape. Worth checking you haven't accidentally disconnected a charge pipe connection, also look for a split in a charge hose. Maybe the intake manifold wasn't perfectly sealed down onto the cylinder head following glow plug replacement, which again will cause pressurised air to escape.
  8. Agree with incredirog, in that these engines will always kick out black smoke under load. Do you see the engine management light illuminated when the egr vacuum hose is disconnected? Sure I once read eu3 M47's can bypass the egr without issue, whereas the eu4 variant trips the engine management light when the same hose is unplugged. Some simple yet effective maintenance I did which reduced black smoke for my eu4 M47are as follows: Replace egr thermostat, replace cooling system thermostat, clean egr, clean intake manifold. The intercooler pipes can be unclipped and reinserted easily, gives an opportunity for close visual inspection - easy to access pipes etc if you lift out the fan and shroud first, which is really simple.
  9. A replacement controller costs 45 quid and fitting is easy enough provided you don't mind scrabbling around under the car on axle stands for an hour or so. I replaced mine and all four glow plug errors cleared on rescan, meaning the plugs were fine but the controller had failed. Priming the fuel pumps several times before turning over to start signals something is not right, I would guess with fuel delivery or fuel pressure sensors. Suggest replacing the controller anyway as it's duff. Clear codes and rescan after a short run to get a picture of what's going on. With regard to starting in cold weather, check out this vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFyHt1JTKwY
  10. Hi - A 27mm open ended/ring spanner is useful to loosen the sensor. I had a go at this last year and all is still well with my 320d. See the last couple of posts in this thread for a description of steps taken to replace: http://www.e46zone.com/forum/topic/65034-the-dsc-trio-3-lights-on-dash-the-basics-done-but-still-no-luck/?tab=comments#comment-926802
  11. Looked into caliper rebuilding 4 years ago, combination of laziness and lack of courage led me to buy a caliper for each corner, total cost £250 and I had to hand in the old calipers too (it was either GSF or ECP, can't remember which one). I'd be inclined to have a stab at rebuilding these days. My understanding is the piston and bore can be cleaned up with wire wool or similar, the only new part required being a rubber boot. Looks easy enough to pop the piston out using pressure from the brake pedal, my concerns are how easy it is to reinstall the piston and to refit the rubber boot - are those two steps difficult? Any tips?
  12. Surprisingly no gaskets specified. I researched this over and over, no gaskets shown on realoem. Asked the downpipe supplier too. When I removed the original pipe there wasn't a gasket visible. Personally, due to the fume leak, I reckon the downpipe to turbo connection on mine would benefit from a gasket of some type.
  13. I bought these a few months back, as several of the fastenings where missing/shot and I didn't like the idea of the splash shield falling off on a motorway journey! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-3-Series-E46-UNDERTRAY-CLIPS-SCREWS-ENGINE-UNDER-COVER-SPLASH-GUARD-SHIELD/171916325077?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
  14. Quick update, I've had to get under the car twice since installing this downpipe, due to exhaust fumes leaking from where the pipe meets the turbo. It's been seated and with exhaust paste 3 times now but always gives out after a couple of weeks or so. I suspect the mating flange is not finished to the same precision as the original bmw downpipe, leading to a poor fit, needing loads of exhaust paste...which eventually cracks under heat and stress. Now considering removal of the downpipe to see if grinding down the flange slightly will help get a better connection. The car is definitely a bit quicker with this downpipe, just annoying that those nasty fumes come into the cabin through the heating system...which is the reason I replaced the downpipe in the first place!!!
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