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FilthyBadger

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About FilthyBadger

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    330cd

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  1. Hi does anyone know the plugs used on the wiring loom for the fuel temp sensor and outside temp sensor? What's the part numbers please? the fuel temp sensor plug I'm wanting to change. I've replace several sensors now and it's currently unplugged. Then it's plugged in I get intermittent power flat spots. I'm hoping a new plug will cure it. the outside temp sensor plug is totally missing at the min. I'm wanting to fit a new sensor and also need the plug. im an instrument electrical tech so I can't see me having an issue crimping new plugs on. thanks
  2. You checked your intercooler for holes? Take it off and fill it with water with the inlet and outlet pointing to the sky, leave it 30mins and se if it's leaking anywhere.
  3. So I have to pay $400 to see other people's photos they've pasted into walk thoughts? That's turd to say the least! All the guides use them.......
  4. Any one else getting the photo bucket p500 image instead of the actual image shown in walk through post? I can see any images/ photos? How do you resolve this issue please? regards
  5. Yep it was the alternator, I've swapped it now and fitted new pulleys and belts too. I found working on the car from underneath was the best way to access everything with the car on axel stands. Dontpannic not a total waste if it avoids you forking out £120 for a new alternator......in this case it didn't! LOL! Plus I had the windshield replaced rescently so was sure if there was a leak causing a current drain.
  6. Hello i have an exhaust leak, the cabin smells when I start the car up, I have to put the fan on re circulation before i fire the car up to stop it. I can see under the bonnet by the back of the turbo it's all sooted up (at the front of the CAT). I've checked under the car and there is no leaks anywhere else. Is this there any common problems for the exhaust to leak here, I'm after some pointers on where to investigate further and cure the issue. Thanks
  7. I'm just guessing, but could it be a split hose, cracked exhaust manifold, or a hole in the exhaust? Might be worth jacking the car up and having a look. A point worth mentioning, have you changed the crank case breather for the new vortex design!?
  8. Is it an electronic EGR or vacuum? Never had the same issue or heard of the fault before, sorry. It may not be your MAF, sounds like it's an EGR issue, or there may be an issue with your MAP sensor?
  9. Chris S is your car throwing up fault codes and enigine light? My cars running really well now. The car must of learned the new sensor. What symptoms have the car got?
  10. What shocks are you putting in BeemerGaz? I'm in the progress of changing all front drop links, wishbones (still need to buy, going to get Meyle ones and poly front rear wishbone bushes) and inner and outer tie rods. Once these are done I'm going to change all shocks and springs, front and rear (I changed all the rear bushes this summer). Mines an M-sport 330cd. Anyway I don't know which ones to get?
  11. Hi chocka I think I did unplug it, it was a few years ago I cleaned my inlet manifold in caustic soda. I'm pretty sure I did, as I've read about this before. My cars swirl flaps are blanked off now. This issues have been with my new MAF plugged in, did the same with the old one. Unplugged the car runs pretty good just enigine light on. I've been driving the car the last few days now, it's running ok. A little slow on being responsive at low revs in 1st and 2nd. I tried the old key throttle reset trick today I believe it's made a difference. I'm going to try doing a full adaptation reset on INPA at the weekend.
  12. just before the high pressure fuel pump under the inlet manifold. Cheers again, i'll do so more digging.
  13. thanks chris, what about the fuel temp sensor, can you clear its adaptations?
  14. Hello My cars been playing up over the last few months/ years and i'm wondering if i need to clear my adaptions in INPA or DIS. 1st.) A few months ago my car was feeling really flat almost like it was driving in limb mode, when i unplugged the MAF the problems stopped and the car drove fine, i only had to put up with the engine light always on. I serviced the car yesterday and changed the MAF for a new Bosch one (like for like same part number). I drove the car yesterday and the light stayed on with the new MAF fitted and the car drove awfully. It was really flat and felt starved of air. I've read about giving the car time to learn the new sensor, surely enough after three or four short trips the engine lights gone away and the car is starting to improve. Should i clear my adaptions on INPA or DIS to speed this process up and improve the car, or just let it self adjust? 2nd.) I only read about this adaption process/ software coding yesterday and never heard of it before that. A few years ago the car was playing up, under full load in low revs picking up through the rev range on hard acceleration the car would hesitate, then kick in full power again. I've had this problem before and had the car plugged in, a fault code for the fuel temp sensor came up. so i swapped the sensor (only £15 for a new one off BMW) and it went away. Anyway after a year or two the problem came back. Surely enough same problem and bought yet another fuel temp sensor and the problem went away again. Anyway it came back again (approx a year later)! So i fitted yet another temp sensor (4th one now) and the car still played up. Note no fault codes came up after the 2nd new sensor. With the fuel temp sensor unplugged the cars fine, so I've been driving the car like this for about three years now (I've had the car 8 years and its got 197K on it). At the time i thought there may be an issue with the wiring to the sensor or electrical clip/ connection. I'm wondering if i need to do something in adaptions would it maybe clear this problem with my temp sensor? All comments welcome. Regards Happy new year!
  15. Thanks day, I'll think I'll have a look this weekend, cheers.
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