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Wolf Larson

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Everything posted by Wolf Larson

  1. Apologies all for resurrecting an old thread, but have FINALLY cured my bad starting issue, which I thought I'd report back on. Turns out it was....[drum roll]....my starter motor! Kind of obvious really in hindsight, but it wasn't throwing any codes, or refusing to turn/start and the connections/voltage were all good - so no obvious signs it was at fault - just lazy cranking. The low cranking was also causing the cranks sensor to throw a fault at starting, which threw me off the scent. Popping on a recon Bosch unit now has my car starting like a new petrol unit. Is a bit of a faff to access and I'll post a 'how to' in the correct section if this would help other members, as I've seen various options on how access it (from above or underneath). Short answer is both: if you strip the inlet manifold off and the steel undercarriage under the sump (which takes an hour combined) you can get to both the top bolt from above and the lower one from (you guessed it) below. Trying to access from above = hours of knuckle bashing to make tiny turns. There's also no need to drop the gearbox a few inches as some forums suggest. Tickover also seems to be better too - not sure why - have done a balance test (via DISV57 software) and a manual back-leak test and the injectors/fuel pressure seem fine and well within tolerance, although a couple of the injectors strays a bit more from their ideal range than others, which may be causing the slightly unstable tickover at idle.
  2. ...noticed in the last few days that my tickover is affected by switching the headlights on. I usually leave them on the 'auto' mode but recently with short school run journeys and cold mornings I've been leaving as much as possible switched off in the car until the engine has started and it's warmed up. Sat in traffic (by this time the engine's been running for 20mins or so), switch the lights on to 'auto' and the tickover starts dropping/rising slightly, switch them off and it's stable again. The battery is 1yr old Yuasa and the system shows 14V when running. It's on its original alternator as far as I can tell...
  3. I've had a propshaft bearing / rubber go. Noticed a knocking under load and badly vibrating gear stick in 4th gear when I was holiday. A few hours of towing later and it was knocking on the transmission tunnel like it was coming through the floor! Mine's a manual btw,
  4. Apols for not being clearer in the first place chaps: yes - power was down with (faulty) Actuator plugged in - the car felt sluggish, as though the turbo was coming in late and over a limited range. Unplugging it threw 2 new fault codes and intermittent power loss, which made the power loss more noticeable when it dropped. Plugging in this thing has restored the power consistently when the car is running, although has had no effect on my sluggish starting issues... So yes - just unplugging it may work for some owners and you may not need to buy one of these. Sorry for not being clearer.
  5. no worries at all - really useful as didn't know about the hidden OBC - don't suppose you could share how I access that? So bloody useful this forum
  6. As mentioned a few posts back, I was getting a loss of power alongside the fault codes, as though there was less boost or it wasn't coming in as early. Fitting this thing has made the car feel more responsive and the power comes in way earlier. Cost £44. I'm not persuading others to buy one, just posting my findings on my car. My starting issue however still persists...argh!!
  7. Hi Judge - check your battery voltage if you can in INPA and see what it's at when cranking. Friend had this on his 330i, brand new battery which looked to holed charge, but a drop test revealed a duff cell when starting. I've also heard a dodgy alternator can cause the dash lights to pulse when starting... TriggerFish - thanks, will check that. When the car was 'pulsing' at idle today, a tiny amount of pedal smoothed it out, it's as though the tickover at idle is a few rpm too low
  8. UPDATE: So I've now cured the Swirl Flap Actuator fault code and fitted a new crank sensor. I've also cleaned the contacts on the engine earth cable, but the problem still persists: cars cranks over a good few times before starting, even when warm and i occasionally get an uneven tickover. The other day I pulled up outside somewhere, came back 5mins later, engine was still warm and the car cranked for a about 10secs and tried to fire 4x before finally firing up. When running it seems okay, although the idle is sometimes pulsing between 730ish rpm and 765ish, and occasionally it will stall if I knock it out of gear and allow the revs to die (ie when approaching traffic lights). With it pulsing at tickover, I ran a few tests using the DIS software with the engine running: Battery was at 14.2V when running, dropped to around 11 when cranking (and once to 9.8 after a long crank). Battery is 1 year old. Actual rail pressure was 300+ at idle and tracks consistently within a few single digits of the specified range. It falls away when the engine stops and quickly builds up when started. Engine temp didn't get higher than 68 (I need a new thermo) I then ran a balance test with the engine pulsing at idle. The car 'passed' as all injectors were well within the specified range, but here's what the were averaging at idle AVE Cyl 1: -1.2 Cyl 5: 0.6 Cyl 3: 0.5 Cyl 6: -0.2 Cyl 2: -1.8 Cyl 4: 2.2 ...as you can see cyl 4 was running 'higher' than the others and way up on 2, it peaked at 2.8 at one stage. Building revs evened them out. Ran the same test again from cold with a stable tickover at idle a few days later and the figures were much more even: MIN / MAX Cyl 1: -0.6 / 0.2 Cyl 5: -0.2 / 1 Cyl 3: 0 / 0.8 Cyl 6: -0.4 / 0.2 Cyl 2: -1.2 / 0 Cyl 4: -0.3 / 0.3 ...as you can see the values across each are much closer. Could this be the issue? Could injector 4 be on the way out, even though it's 'within range'? For me the problem still feels like fueling, although one other area I've yet to focus on is the starter motor, as the engine also seems slow to turn when firing - could this be faulty? Would this throw a fault code? This obviously wouldn't cause uneven tickover though - maybe the two issues aren't connected??II Any ideas much appreciated!!! Driving me nuts
  9. Thanks - didn't know that! I stopped buying spares from my local BMW garage a year or so as they were so consistently up-helpful, walked away empty handed so many times after being told they couldn't find/didn't stock part(s) I needed and I should look on eBay.
  10. For me...because I'm having a few problems with my car starting/at tickover and wanted to rule this out as the cause. Have also read online from other users that this can cause issues with forcing the car to run in limp mode, so thought it would be helpful to post how I cured it for others if this is causing them problems.
  11. ...and it's a good point, had the same issue in the past myself. I'll see what brands they sell, as I usually buy Bosch from them (the EGR I got from them was Bosch IIRC, it leaked from new and I had to strip/reassemble and fit a new o-ring to make it work...forgot about that)
  12. Thanks both - I'm getting close to being on first name terms with the blokes at my local ECP!
  13. Nothing major, slight loss of power, turbo seemed to only be working across a more limited range, and taking longer to kick in. The car now feels more responsive, am also having a few issues with starting - but don't think these are connected to the actuator - but wanted to rule this out
  14. ...have a feeling my thermostat is sticking. My car has always taken a good while to warm up (a lot longer than my E36 petrol) which I put down to being a characteristic of diesel engines (this is the first one I've owned), but was focussing on it today and noted it sat below a quarter for ages. After a good 20mins of driving and with it fully warmed up the needle was still way below half way and the coolant temp read out from my ODBII was 66 C. I replaced the EGR thermo a while back as its tip exploded, but haven't looked at the main one.
  15. Hi all, Just to post an update, so my car is a late model with the 204bhp engine (M57N TU I think). Removed the swirl flaps a while back and fitted PMW blanking plugs, but mine has an electronic actuator. If you simply unplug the actuator like on the 184bhp engine this throws up 2 fault codes, and if the actuator packs up this throws up another fault code, both of which result in a loss of power. Was quite expensive to get this mapped out with the quotes I had (the car's already been re-mapped for EGR delete and more power) so I opted for a cheaper/quicker fix and fitted this from eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262769830622?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Arrived today, took no time to fit as you simply plug it in to the end of cable in place of the actuator and now the codes have gone and the car is pulling loads better. Here's hoping it lasts, as it feels like a lightweight 3D printed block with a few wires inside...but hey, it works!!
  16. For me it's just convenience, I may upgrade to a used HK system as the 'standard' one is fairly poor, and the music on my iPod is compressed, although in theory I could stream TIDAL at 16/44....now there's a thought
  17. Thanks guys - here's the cable I bought: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152045481093?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Plugs in okay but there's no inline resistor. I've since emailed http://www.fruitycarcables.co.uk/ to enquire about one from them. Thanks again chaps - this forum is so bloody helpful, really appreciate it
  18. Thanks for replying. Have tried the cable both ways. The cable is just that - with no inline resistor etc. Have been reading around and it seems that you only get the 'AUX' option in the menu depending on the version of software installed at the factory. Mine's never had it, but I presumed with the cable connected it would automatically 'see' it and activate the AUX plug-in - seems not. Reading around a few people seem to have had this issue,
  19. Hi all, I'm looking to make use of the AUX input on the back of my Business CD head unit. I've got the cable (10pin to 3.5mm male jack) but it seems my head unit has had the 'AUX' option coded out, despite having a 'Mode' button. I'm guessing because the unit was fitted as part of the car's original spec and never had use for it - having a single CD slot and Tuner. Is there anyway to code it back in? I have some software (INPA 2, DIS57 etc)... Thanks!
  20. well mines worse starting than both of yours despite new plugs and module, so this is obviously not the cause. Fingers crossed it's the crank sensor - which threw up a fault code. Will report back at the weekend.
  21. Hi all, As you may have guessed I'm in the process of ironing out every little gremlin on my E46 to get it back to A1, as I've been neglecting it for too long as the daily runner, and a summer of great driving/camping holidays has got the bit between my teeth to get the car sorted. Might even start going on the odd meet. Anyhow, year or so back I fitted an aftermarket towbar, but as the car didn't originally have one this now triggers the parking sensors as soon as I put it in reverse. Is it possible to reprogram them myself to ignore the tow bard? Only software I have is INPA and DISv57... Thanks in advance people
  22. good you got it sorted, those undertrays are a nightmare for trying to retrieve dropped bolts/sockets from. Magnet on a stick has been my best friend since I got my E46, saved my hours of scraped fingers
  23. I had similar which turned out to be a sticking caliper, symptoms were the same as a wheel out of balance, but after taking it for a spin and touching each wheel noticed one was super hot, new caliper sorted it
  24. How very dare you - car is loads faster with them on. Might upgrade to black grilles, although I need to replace the cracked front fog first that I've been ignoring.
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