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incredirog

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Everything posted by incredirog

  1. before anyone hates on the discreet ///M badge, technically I’ve reduced the quota of ///M badges by 3 as all four wheel badges and the gear knob badge have gone 😂 litte helper is finally big enough to help now!
  2. it’s definitely the exhaust hangers, might as well fit my decat down pipe while I’m under there!
  3. they’re ok, they fit you don’t even notice them
  4. so obviously now I’ve got the ET38s on the rear it looks weird the fronts look crazy aggressive which is fine but the rears tuck in and it sits too low, I’m going to raise the ride height 10 or 15mm by means of spring pads and see what I can do with an arch roller. moral of the story is it’s easier to space out wheels than space them in!
  5. Nah I did consider it, I looked at a few but decided against it as being just another expense on top of the refurb and then the alignment it would add another £200 to wheels
  6. unfortunately the laws of physics puts the ET15 rear fitment in the too difficult basket. Static, they look incredible perfectly flush with the wheel arch. So tried the other one on the front pretty blinking wide!!! got the two fronts fitted now, and my old front tyres will go on the pair of ET38’s I have for the rear then I can play with spacers and arch rolling!
  7. nearly there wheel wise, just need to magicly make the rear arches accept an ET15 wheel
  8. 330d M57 runs like a swiss clock regardless of temperature
  9. Cheers kirky, I’ve got the new ball joints but I’m leaning towards the exhaust hangers and gear box mounts. They’ll both need changing anyway regardless of causing the knock or not. And the ball joints can sit in the shed. I know how to spanner but I can’t rule out incorrect installation of something so I’ve got a lot of work to be checking. It’s such an innocuous tap/knock that I’m now certain it’s not a critical failure. It’s also impossible to deliberately cause it, it seems to only happen when driving down normal roads with normal deviations at a normal speed.
  10. new ball joints and poly bushes on the way!
  11. Got a knock, a little tiny front end knock. Seems to occur when I go over little deviations which make the car shake rather than the suspension compress. My initial thought was that I hadn’t tightened the tie rod ball joints down but I checked and they are on pretty tight. It’s definitely not drive train related. I’ve replaced, engine mounts, front control arms and bushes, struts, droplinks, tie rods, arb bushes, steering coupler. Not all in one go, some last year, some this year, some last week. I’ve got the handling dialed in now and it is straight and true just how it would have been from the factory. Just trying to track this knock down. Any help?! The droplinks are adjustable and at minimum setting following fitment in what I would call a sub optimal work space, could the shallow angle be making the ARB foul on something?
  12. I don’t recognise it but you could try the exploded diagrams on realoem
  13. it’s only been 6 years! I’m sure he’ll remember!
  14. like this, exactly like this https://www.bmw-syndikat.de/bmwsyndikatfotos/topic11199_E46_320i_AC-Schnitzer_3er_BMW_-_E46.html
  15. ok it’s gotten out of hand again! just purchased in no particular order ACS mirrors, ACS boot spoiler, M3 rep front bumper and am in talks with a body shop about paint correction 🙈 the wife’s gonna kill me 😂
  16. I don’t think you’ll find many people with the skill set to do this job correctly offering their services for free! What happened to the original engine? I don’t think the outlay of time and money would really justify the rewards of something that is neither a real alpina or and M3.
  17. get yourself a code reader and read the codes. efficient diagnosis is critical or you’ll just be throwing money and time at it.
  18. big picture update coming soon! got some ACS type 3 reps being powder coated to go on. just finished the suspension/steering refresh with new track rods inny and outeys and adjustable drop links, poly ARB bushes. the track rod ends we’re hanging on by a thread and the in joints weren’t much better. Sport track rod ends were too long so got some adjustables and set them up with zero preload on the ARB. just booted it up the road and back and it drives straighter than it did before the work. Can’t wait to get the tracking dialed in! need to roll, pull and fettle my rear arches to take the ridiculously offset wheels now, trying to fit et15’s on the rear!!!!! fronts are a more respectable 38
  19. What have you? I’m offering a genuine set of MV1’s fronts come with no tyres, rears will have part worn (5,000 gentle miles) Nokian Zline 255/35/18 Condition is average, they need a refurb really but are fine to use as is. I’m after a set of genuine BMW 17” rims tyres not necessary. Prefer something interesting but probably would settle for some style 44’s, style 68’s in any condition preferred. Straight swap, I’m located in south London.
  20. well that’s put me and my much less advanced 184ps firmly in our place
  21. I have a 2003 330d 184ps and I cannot monitor any parameters or use a generic OBD reader on it. I understand that this was due to diesel engined cars not being required by law to have a universal OBD protocol until much later than petrols. The only way to monitor diagnostic parameter is via laptop with dealer software or via the obc hidden menues or get the later more powerful 330d.
  22. Engine mounts gets a bad write up as a job but it’s not that bad, the hardest bit is getting the last couple of mm to remove them the rest is simple if you’re handy with the spanners. Pro tip, on the drivers side there is a plastic splash guard protecting the earth strap, it’s hard to spot as it blends in with the metal, remove this and the mount slides out easy!
  23. the drivetrain is above the exhaust in the transmission tunnel. it’s extremely well protected. you’ll need to visually inspect the damage as anything could be broken any rattling around.
  24. nah they’re pretty tatty, rust bubbles on both sides bumper clips hanging off. usual high mile E46 vibe.
  25. Thanks for the reply momo, I also ran the numbers on willtheyfit but it’s hard to visualise it on the vehicle with no tyre on the rim. I think I’m gonna grind and roll and pull the arches until they fit and then tidy up the body work after.
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