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My316

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About My316

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Current Car
    E46 320CI Sport
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oxford UK
  1. Hi Guys I know the dreaded coolant bleeding problem has been covered in posts a million times but cannot find correct method for following. All suggested methods on the internet are after draining the system of after flushing or replacing pump, thermo, etc. My 320 had small coolant leak for past few months which is now fixed. During recent cold weather have noticed the cabin heater takes an age to blow heat and only comes on after approx 5 miles of driving. Having read dozens of posts on this I think the past few months leak has caused an airlock around the heater area and only gets heated coolant after being driven etc. Therefore my question is: what is 100% correct method to bleed air out without draining the system and starting from scratch. Thanks in advance
  2. Thanks for your reply dec74n and info. Will certainly disconnect battery and fit this weekend.
  3. Hi Guys. I got rid of my 4 pot 316 (thank god) and now have a 320 M Sport ( love it). It has an airbag problem. Airbag light comes on when someone sits in the passenger seat. Therefore I presume its the under seat mat sensor. So I've ordered a passenger mat airbag bypass sensor which I've seen on many E46 posts as the possible reason. My question is: does anyone on here have the correct procedure for fitting the airbag passenger mat bypass sensor. I have looked at the videos and Facebook and there are conflicting instructions -- some say no need to disconnect the battery -- others say disconnect battery before fitting. Lastly does anyone on here fitted one of these and were there any side effects for example causing cruise control to come on or seat belt light constantly on. Sorry for such a long ramble but don't want to create myself more problems. Thanks in advance.
  4. Yes -- heater and ignition was on when last filled and I have heat coming through the car.
  5. Thanks for your post Kirkynut. I originally had a leak on the expansion tank so had it replaced plus top hose. Since then I've had the problem. Have tried squeezing top and bottom hoses without success. Top of radiator is hot but bottom is cold so looks like a air lock. Therefore I've got no choice but to drain the system again and raise front of car, bleed with ignition on and heater on max setting.
  6. Hi B.Merr. Thanks for your reply. I already have coolant squirting back into the reservoir. From what I can gather it seems I have an air lock in the radiator ( warm at top but cold at the bottom even after 20 miles ) So its another drain out and refill. Will take your advice and make sure the front is raised high this time.
  7. Hi 2clubsp Thanks for the post. I've not tried that so will give it a go later today -- thanks.
  8. Hi Ian1001 Thanks for the post. Unfortunately the link is for a E36. Have tried finding E46 316i 2004 without success. Have already Googled bleeding E46's but they all show how to bleed after draining and refilling. I really cannot face draining out the system again, so was asking if anyone knows how to extract air pocket without draining.
  9. Hi Incredirog Thanks for your reply. I've fitted a new sensor and checked and it works ok. My question is how do I bleed the system without draining it again.
  10. Hi Guys My low level coolant light comes on after approximate 10 miles. There is no coolant loss and temp is normal (does not overheat even after 2-300 miles) I presume its an air lock . So decided to check the radiator after running and its warm at the top but cold at the bottom. Therefore seems its air lock in the rad. Whats the best way to bleed air out of the radiator without draining the system ? Thanks in advance
  11. Thanks Incredirog for the reply. I'll try removing the cover and see if that works.
  12. Hi guys. Need some serious advice. I have a 4 pot 316i and recently replaced leaking coolant expansion tank and top hose (from Eurocarparts) and level sensor (from GSF) Have system bleed 3 times by different so called mechanics but after 10 -15 miles low level coolant light always comes on. Not loosing any fluid and temperature is normal even after a 300 mile trip. Someone said it could be because of not using BMW tank and sensor parts. Or does anyone know of possible reasons as its driving me mad. Thanks in advance
  13. Thanks TriggerFish for your reply. I've got two bleed valves and have already tried opening them until only coolant flows out. I know E46's are sometimes difficult -- but this is getting beyond a joke. Will have another go tomorrow.
  14. Thanks Rasa -- I'll give that a try.
  15. Hi Guys I can find loads of instructions on how to fill and bleed cooling system from scratch, but cannot find how to bleed air out of an already full system. I have had a new Coolant Expansion tank fitted to my E46 316i and after driving 10 - 15 miles the coolant level light comes on. I'm not loosing water so it must be air in the system. When engine is cold Cooling Level Light is off. How do I bleed the air out of a full system ? Do I need to drain the cooling system, or is there a method I can use for bleeding a full cooling system. Any help greatly appreciated Thanks
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