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  1. Hello, Just got a Check Engine Light, and 2 codes for bank 1 and 2 lambda sensors. Had bank 2 error thrown intermittently for around a month prior to this, and a very high rich condition. If I put the car in first and stay in gear until 3k revs the exhaust pops like mad, I can't imagine this is good for my cats. My understanding is a lean condition is from an air leak, is there anything else I can rule out before throwing over £200 at new O2 sensors? The codes in INPA are 227 and 228, I assume these are pre-cat?
  2. Hello again, I have a 2002 330ci Sport, 121k MI and FSH. Since about a month into owning the car, I would get a Bank 2 code thrown every so often. When I first start the car I can smell fuel fumes after a few seconds, but this goes away when the car is fully up to temperature (90 degrees plus). If I sit there idling I can smell it for quite a while, and when I blip the throttle up to 2k revs the exhaust pops quite a lot - as far as I know no overrun mods have been performed on the car, the only mod is the exhaust flap. Stock exhaust too as far as I can tell. The code is intermittent, and this is paired by a fan code which I'm sure is not related. This is only bank 2, I've never seen anything about bank 1. Here's the code: ------------------------------------------------------------- RESULT: 1 errors in error memory ! ------------------------------------------------------------- 228 Lambdareglerabweichung Bank 2 Error frequency : 1 Logistic counter: 40 N_32 704.00 rpm MAF 87.15 mg/stk TCO 61.50 Grad C LAM_MV_2 6.25 % aufgetreten vor (rel. BZ) 0.20 h Abweichung fett --- --- --- Fehler ist abgasrelevant Fehler entprellt Fehler momentan vorhanden statischer Fehler Errorcode: E4 71 01 28 16 10 92 90 81 7D I assume this is the pre cat O2? Here's the reading for the Lambdas: Car was around 70deg+ in this picture, the temp needle was in the middle. I assume I'm looking at the short term fuel trim values, I was watching them for a few minutes and especially bank 2 moves around a lot and into the red (10+). I don't want to throw parts at the thing, but I don't want this to develop into something more serious like catalytic converter issues. How can I determine if this is caused by the lambda sensor? It does appear to be responding properly, but I don't have a code reader to read the milliamp (as it's a wideband sensor isnt it?). Here's everything I've done to this moneypit so far: - Watercooling loop refresh (Genuine BMW coolant, distilled water, all hoses, exp tank, water pump, thermostat, radiator, coolant temp sensor) - Spark plugs (Bosch) - Replaced a cracked vacuum nipple at the back of the intake manifold, the other one is fine - Replaced crankshaft position sensor, the one underneath the vanos solenoid - Oil filter housing - CCV - Oil + Filter Not sure if any of the above make a difference, but more info is better than less. Looks like too much air is getting into bank 2 and slightly affecting 1, either that or both are going. When my mechanic looked at the car for something unrelated, bank 2 would take a little longer to respond but voltages were fine. We tested this by pressing the brake pedal quickly to introduce air into the system. We found the vacuum cap at the back was cracked badly and replaced it, and it's been okay for a while now.
  3. Yeah no idea how this has happened. I always dread electrical issues for this very reason. Turns out I need a new Camshaft Sensor, at the side of the engine underneath the CCV tube. Any idea who makes the OEM sensors? All I see on ECP is HAAS and Delphi, the Delphi being £20 more. Rather get the proper sensor than some cheapy
  4. Made some progress. Tested and cleaned all grounds with no issue, seems to be intermittent so I started disconnecting non essential things to narrow down the problem. Appears to be the vanos inlet solenoid, the error I get in INPA is: - 21 VANOS-Magnetventil Einlass-NW | translates to: "VANOS Solenoid Valve Inlet NW" When this is disconnected, the fuel pump primes and this is the only error on the OBD. When I reconnect it, the EML light flashes, check engine stays on and the OBD has loads of errors with failed relays...etc. There does appear to be an oil leak from the valve cover gasket which trickles down onto the sensor - it was changed in 2014 but perhaps a CCV change (OEM) has provoked this issue. I was planning a vanos refresh later in the year so it will all be redone anyway. If you ever have any electrical issues, check the fuses work, test relays with a multimeter then start disconnecting things to find the culprit. I'll clean it up and see if it wants to work, if not I'll have to call around and see how much this costs.
  5. Off the top of my head: - Check that the fuel is still good - Change oil if it's coming up, or top up - Brake fluid as it would attract water and never get up to temp - Ensure coolant is topped up - Charge battery, don't want to run a car with a near depleted battery. - Check belts for tearing/perishing Maybe change gearbox/diff/ATF oil if you feel it needs doing
  6. Back in an E46 - Cooling problem?

    The coolant in my 330ci sits at around 92-95 degrees under normal operation which is enough to make it steam. Do a pressure test, and if that comes back normal it could be the expansion tank cap that's leaky. Mine was too causing it to condense and run down the tank. Oil leak could be oil filter housing gasket, when you take the airbox off and look at the block in the area with recessed sections of metal you will see oil sitting in there like the image below:
  7. My meter is a cheapy from Amazon, was about £25 I believe. That whole box is dry, everything in that box is clean too. Disconnected the leads and it all looks spotless.
  8. Just checked the ground by the battery, the ground strap underneath the car, the ground by the fuse box, ground by brake booster and the ground either end of the cylinders. All show 2-3 ohms of resistance and no live current. This car is starting to test my patience, I've had less than 150 miles of trouble free motoring in 2 months
  9. Okay so I've just pulled the DME (Light Blue) relay and tested it. I get 95 Ohms resistance between pins 30/85 and 3 ohms between 87 and 87. Seems normal to me, if I try and connect pins 30 and 87 or 85 and 87 I get no connection, so it appears to be functioning okay. Realised the DME relay isn't the main relay, as the main has 5 pins instead of 4. All of the pins have below 100 ohms, and 98 has nothing as I assume the relay has to open for that to have any current. Apart from grounding I don't understand what else could be the issue
  10. I can connect to the car via INPA now, there was 15 errors so I saved them, then cleared them, and now there's 3 stored which are: 1. 69 Kraftstoffpumpenrelais (Fuel Pump Relay) 2. 36 Hauptrelais (Main Relay) 3. 74 Relais Klimakompressor (Air Conditioning Compressor Relay) The 15 errors which were stored before I cleared them are: 1. 11 Kuehlerausgangstemperatur ( Engine coolant temperature sensor in radiator outlet high/low ) 2. 242 Verbrennungsaussetzer Zylinder 5 (Misfire) 3. 239 Verbrennungsaussetzer Zylinder 2 (Misfire) 4. 241 Verbrennungsaussetzer Zylinder 4 (Misfire) 5. 228 Lambdareglerabweichung Bank 2 (Lambda Deviation Bank 2) 6. 243 Verbrennungsaussetzer Zylinder 6 (Misfire) 7. 53 LLFS oeffnende Spule elektrisch (LLFS opening coil electric) 8. 27 LLFS schliessende Spule elektrisch (LLFS closing coil electric) 9. 100 Steuergeraetefehler (Control device error) ????? 10. 37 Schaltverzoegerung Hauptrelais (Shift delay main relay) 11. 36 Hauptrelais (Main Relay) 12. 69 Kraftstoffpumpenrelais (Fuel Pump Relay) 13. 74 Relais Klimakompressor (Air Conditioning Relay) 14. 124 Variable Sauganlage (Variable intake system) Disa? 15. 123 Thermostatheizung, KFK (Thermostat heating, KFK) So it appears I've blown the Fuel Pump Relay and Main Relay (Blue DME Relay?). My understanding is the fuses would blow before the relays sustained any damage. When driving I didn't suffer any misfires, or rough driving either. What concerns me the most is my initial inability to communicate with the DME. Would a bad ground strap underneath cause this issue? And I have an ohms testing section on my multimeter so I'll go and test my relays now - I'm going to assume theyre dead, will rule it out anyway. Why has this happened initially? I wouldn't have thought running with no undertray would cause this in the wet... I guess I'll be leaving it on but would like to get to the bottom of this
  11. Are they fuses inside this box: I've already had these out and they're all working/unbroken, as well as every fuse inside the fuse box.
  12. I drove down to the dealer with the alternator connected, but it was only putting out 11.5v - not enough to charge my battery which explains the discharge issue. As soon as I put the nut to secure the positive lead onto the back, I get 13.5v ish depending what's turned on in the cabin. The batt reads 12.3/4V when everythings been off for a few hours, so I can confirm the battery is good and the alternator is working fine. The dealer is about 20 mile round trip mostly dual carriageway - I charged the battery before leaving as I don't want to do lasting damage to a 2 month old battery, and I've also heard charging a low battery via the alternator can damage it, just in case I got the problem solved which I did. The laptop is fine as I can detect the ignition on and cable connected, just can't read anything from the ECU. I get a load of error 19's from INPA. Last night I took the battery off and the MOTOR-SICHERUNGEN box to take it indoors to get inside of it. I just went out to the car, put the fuses back in and the battery. The EML light flashes when the key is in position 2, but the temp gauge stays normal. Traction light stays on, and the handbrake light is yellow when disengaged. Still no start. No OBD2 functions apart from battery/cluster test work. When the key is in position 2, here is what I see: I did disconnect the rear cluster in the boot, so that is normal My concern with no undertray is the ground strap underneath the car. This has only happened since I've driven in the rain, and they appear to be much more sensitive electronically. When the rain stops, my plan of action is to: - Check the ground strap, disconnect and clean just to rule it out. I will also do this for the ground in the boot, and the ground by the fuse box. - Connect my laptop to the OBD2 port, I doubt it will work but might as well rule it out - Use my multimeter to test the relays for resistance (continuity?). I cannot hear the fuel pump when I turn the car on, but the car knows when the MOTOR-SICHERUNGEN box is disconnected. Is there a better name for the MOTOR-SICHERUNGEN box? Bit of a mouthful. Cheers
  13. Hello, I have a 2002 330ci Sport Coupe with a suspected ECU issue. Symptoms: - No start, cranks but no firing - Temp Gauge Max, car hasn't been driven in 2 days. Will go straight to max shortly after key is in position 2 - Traction Control light permanently on - Can't get any information from the OBD menu - INPA keeps saying "Error 19" - No fuel pump noise (car has 3/4 tank of fuel). Fuel filter changed in 2014, 20k miles since it's been changed. The car has been running fine up until 2 days ago. I went down to BMW to get a bolt for the alternator terminal, as I stupidly didn't put mine back on after a oil filter housing gasket change. The car has no under tray and it was raining heavily when I drove down there and back. I attached the bolt down there and the alt reads 13.5V when driving, so it's charging the batt. When I got home (15 mi drive) I turned the car off, and came back to it earlier this evening. The lights I describe are lit up, and it just cranks with no firing, I let it crank for 1/2 secs as I assumed it wouldn't start due to it's weird behavior. I have: - Checked all fuses in fuse box (Including the large 50A fuses x2), as well as in the "MOTOR-SICHERUNGEN" Box under bonnet. - Battery reads 12.4V with multimeter and OBD. - Tested for shorts by setting multimeter to DC V, disconnecting the negative terminal, connecting the red on multimeter to battery negative, and connecting the negative lead on the MM to the ground bolt in boot. - Left the battery negative terminal disconnected for a few hours to reset ECU. I'm either suspecting the ground strap on the underside of the car, or relays have been fried. Seems a bit strange this happens after I get my alternator properly charging the car. Any ideas? My experience with this car so far has been nothing but a pain. Admittedly I shouldn't be running it in bad rain with no undertray, so I guess this is the second thing that's gone wrong because of me
  14. Hello, My 330's idle can be irratic at times, especially if it's been idling for a few minutes (while bleeding the cooling system, I don't let my car idle as a general rule). If I blip the throttle twice and let the revs drop, it bogs down then jumps back up as the ECU adjusts. Never experienced this in my E36. I've also noticed when pulling away from a stop it bogs down a lot as if I let the clutch up too much. This stops if I rev the car up to 2/2.5k on a flat road then let the clutch up whilst maintaining over 2k revs - surely this isn't normal? I feel like I'll burn out my clutch in no time doing this. Another symtom is if I put the car in 1st/2nd, build up speed then let off the accelerator therefore letting the car coast, between 2/1.5k revs it will bog and shake like a rocking horse as if it's about to stall. My E36 never did this and would happily coast (on the flat) in gear with no gas. My 330ci won't do this despite a bigger engine I have changed: - CCV - Entire Watercooling system - Oil filter housing gasket - Spark Plugs - Oil + Oil filter - Airbox Filter The throttle body is clean, and so is the ICV. Fuel filter has been recently changed around 15k miles ago with a genuine BMW. What else could be the issue? I have INPA and no codes are shown - I can post any other stats if this would help diagnosis. Cheers
  15. As far as I'm aware the problem is solved - thanks to those of you that replied I really appreciate it. Was a mixture of problems, the Vacuum Cap on the back of the intake manifold wasn't sealing properly resulting in a vac leak, see here: Thankfully you can get these for cheap, if you need the part numbers here they are: 11611727176 (7mm plug) - Fig 2 in the above image 11611437560 (3.5mm). - Fig 1 in the above image I only needed the 7mm which was 97p from my local dealership. The oil leak was the Oil Filter Housing gasket, was crunchy when I removed it but it's all sorted as well as fresh oil and filter. Coated my engine in oil, utter mess but I'm glad it's a minor problem. So far I've driven 40 ish miles, seems fairly smooth and pulls beautifully. No errors via INPA, and 31MPG without paying attention to fuel consumption - Not bad for a 121k 3L. Cheers guys