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About austinsom

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  1. From that description it sounds like the regulator
  2. Bit late to the party, but have a look at this if you've not already found or solved this conumdrum: https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E46/35-TRANS-Rear_Differential_Fluid_Replacement/35-TRANS-Rear_Differential_Fluid_Replacement.htm Confirms what I though about filling until the fluid starts to come out, then seal up when it stops dripping.
  3. Sorry to hear that - had a failure on mine a number of years ago. I spoke to Garrett before buying anything and they advised that it is quite difficult to recon a turbo properly, unless you have a lot of specialist kit. This was a number of years ago now, so I suspect that the kit has got cheaper and more people use it as there are re-furbed turbos etc all over ebay. But on the basis of that advice I bought a new turbo from Midland Turbo, and from memory it was about £900. I have seen new turbo cores on ebay for that turbo - not sure how easy that is to balance etc. When you have it replaced make sure you have a modified breather fitted and check the oil feed to the turbo is not blocked - I'm sure the mechanic will do this anyway, but just to be safe.
  4. lol, not to worry, I'm always doing that! I did get a set of replacement bowls and projectors from aliexpress which looked OK, not top quality but probably better than the burnt out bowls. I never fitted them in the end (well, one is in an old headlight to see how it works, but not gotten around to that yet!), although according to people who have, the cut-off is more defined and a little narrower than the originals, putting more light on the road. These are basically the same as those from retrofitlab, and if you have Xenons, worth having a set on the shelf at that price. I seem to remember that the solenoid is wired back to front on these and the wires need to be switched over on fitting: Replacement projectors and bowls As things go, drove home in the dark tonight and the lights dropped all the way down, so I have a sensor failed. Time to buy the proper replacements and not the cheap ebay ones!
  5. I was quoted about £125 + VAT for a pair to be re-plated. Replacement headlights were somewhere near £500 a side, so that seemed like a good deal. In the end I picked up two factory fresh passenger side xenon equipped lights for less than replating and just took the bowls from those and have a load of extra spares for when they're needed!
  6. Good luck, post back with how it goes. In case anyone is interested, this is what the burnt bowls look like when the aluminium has come off. These should;d be like mirrors:
  7. You've probably fixed this up by now, but if not, I did the same install. There is switched live that feeds the interior light and also rain sensor. I power two devices that way (one on each with a splice) and they only come on with the ignition. You'll need a multi-meter as there are a couple of permanent live wires in there too. Plenty of space to put the adapter and cabling up there too.
  8. They should do, same applies to a xenon equipped car if you unplug the sensors front and back. Just double check your headlight aim adjuster in the car is set for a car with no load (position 0 I think) otherwise that will point the lights down.
  9. I've had issues with lights not being bright - turned out to be wound a long way down. The ride height sensor was broken and so the auto leveling dropped them down, but you may not have that if you have Halogens (if you have a wheel with 1-2-3 on the LCM you don't have the auto levelling). If you do, even adjusting them up wont last, the car will do a self test when starting and if it gets no data from the sensor, the lights just stay down. The Xenons are bright on the e46, but the dim xenons are generally caused by the vapour deposited aluminium coating burning off the inside of the projector bowls so less light gets reflected out of the lens. Had this very issue on my e46 and stripped the lights down and replaced the bowls and whilst they are not as good as new cars, they were much better. I've got a picture somewhere if you're interested to see how bad they can get!
  10. Maybe you already got this sorted with the fuel smell, but just in case! I had the same problem in an e36 where it would smell of petrol, both in and outside, when it was full but smell went as fuel level dropped. Turned out to be the cap on the top of the tank under the back seat, I think for the level sensor, being distorted and not sealing properly. Does fuel leak out and drip?
  11. I'm pretty sure that in the wiring loom for the interior light you'll find a permanent +12v feed too. I just wired mine to the switched live as I tend to take it out of the car when I'm done. The rain sensor is a switched line as my other device only comes on with the ignition. There is also plenty of space to stick the regulator and quite a bit of wiring into the aperture for the light, unless you have a cab.
  12. I was going to do the same, but managed to splice into a switched +12v line and earth on the interior light behind the rear view mirror. Just need a multi metre to find out which is the switched live and away you go - without looking at mine I couldn't tell you which one it was, but if you get stuck give me a shout and I'll pull it out and get a photo!
  13. Hi all, Just been out replacing the front headlight level sensor having had the headlights pointing straight at the ground. Turned out the sensor was faulty despite both the arm and the linkall being intact. So, just to make sure the job was good for a while, I wanted to replace both the sensor and the link arm and bracket. I have the version that bolts through the control arm. However, after undoing the nut, the link and bracket would not come off, or even move. I can't see other nuts, so thought it must have corroded to the control arm. Covered it in penetrating fluid and left for an hour. Came back and it still wouldn't budge. Hit it with a hammer, nothing. I am beginning to wonder if this has been spot welded on as well. After this, I replaced just the sensor, which fixed the fault, but it is annoying to know that the link could fail soon and it just wont come off! Anyone else who has done this job have any suggestions. My part is number 5 on this diagram: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=ED92-EUR-03-2003-E46-BMW-330d&diagId=31_0409 Any help gratefully received!
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