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E46Driver330Ci

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About E46Driver330Ci

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    E46 330Ci
  1. You are probably dealing with different problems. Clunking at the rear can be caused by the rear sway bar bushes being too weak from failed factory design. This particular clunk also happens when steering is turned quickly side to side while driving. The solution is to stuff some very strong rubber into the gap where the two sides of the bush meet. The strongest rubber that I know is the pad used below the rear suspension spring. I used small pieces cut from a used pad and it's effective. That pad is also good for making an in-destructive pad for the jack.
  2. Probably have a short circuit somewhere. You can attempt pinpointing the location by pulling fuses to disable modules. Keep pulling until the problem appears to stop. It might then give you a clue. Various modules do come with the ability to detect short circuits. Clear all codes and recheck what appears. You make it sounds like you have codes. If you fix all of those, then you can be completely sure those are not causing you the current problem. I have no clue about electricals. I have a vague idea about a voltage regulator on the alternator. Maybe unplugging the alternator for luck and to see? Also check behind the trunk side-carpeting for floods. Those will surely cause short circuits.
  3. A car with a new clutch and gearbox is better than another car without. If you are sure of the condition of your car then it's a case of better the devil you know. The use value of your car is considerably higher than the insurance value so long as you don't crash. Typically with older cars, people (US videos) buy parts from junk yards. Those people offering you £300 will surely get £3000 out of it. Maybe you can ask them if they have a good deal on a clutch and transmission? I believe there's a company that re-solders the DSC for a fee. If it's just the speed sensors, I don't think they are extremely expensive. Pressures sensors are penny a dozen (not literally of course) from China if you don't mind the risks. I had good luck and it worked for me.
  4. Best, cheap, but sometimes slow 1 month delivery is an inpa scanner from aliexpress. Ebay may be quicker. But since you are taking a risk of getting something that might not work, keeping the cost down limits your loss.
  5. It's impossible to have a dash light on and get no code. What does the code say?
  6. The code tells you the steering angle sensor. There's little point throwing any other parts at it. Electronic parts do wear out from heat-cycling. There's not much you can do but to replace them. Some times taking parts out and cleaning them and their contacts might work. Oxidation on the contacts can affect things. It all depends on how much work you want to do.
  7. DSC depends on the speed of the wheels to work. If it doesn't know what the speed is, it is disabled.
  8. What he ^ said. I carried full load of luggage and passengers and never had problems with the already big 18's.
  9. I was talking about something different. I was talking about the feel of the suspension geometry that is transmitted to the steering wheel. The factory set up gave me a big smile every time I drove. Once that's lost from messing about with the suspension parts, that feeling is lost forever. I don't even think a dealer £500-£1000 alignment will bring it back, although I never tried. I am not a performance driver, and more of a regular grocery driver. The m-sports set up is plenty stiff for me. If it gets any stiffer, my grocery will surely get scrambled at the back.
  10. How do you mean seem sealed? Is there reason why it isn't really sealed?
  11. If it doesn't work then it can't be OEM. Put the old ones back or go buy BMW springs. Both the springs and shocks should be made by the same manufacturer. I don't believe bilstein made the E46 shocks. Mine had sachs. But I am reluctant to tell you to get sachs springs because when I tried a sachs shock it did not perform as good, last as long, or had the precise dimension of the BMW one. To get the non-BMW branded OEM part, you have to be 100% sure they are the same part. The problem with the suspension parts is that they mess up the the geometry if they don't match the original. Once messed up, it's very difficult to get back the original BMW feel, which is what made these cars great to drive.
  12. OK, looks like the leak was fixed. It's remarkable how long one needs to wait for rain in the UK. Not much of it but enough to conclude the test. The leak was from hair line cracks on the lower horizontal plate of the tail light recess. That plate was welded and plastered over with some kind of plaster. That plaster did not have the performance to withstand the temperature changes possibly because of ageing and hairline cracks opened up allowing water to seep in. It took extensive rain for the water to build up in the body panel for it to spill out. Because I always reverse out of my driveway to the left, the water mostly spilled out on the right and into the battery compartment. If the car wasn't driven, the water would have overflowed into the wheel well because the lowest hole in the body panel was nearest to the wheel well. I could see water/scale mark below that hole.
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