Jump to content

E46Driver330Ci

Members
  • Content Count

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About E46Driver330Ci

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Current Car
    E46 330Ci
  1. What he ^ said. I carried full load of luggage and passengers and never had problems with the already big 18's.
  2. I was talking about something different. I was talking about the feel of the suspension geometry that is transmitted to the steering wheel. The factory set up gave me a big smile every time I drove. Once that's lost from messing about with the suspension parts, that feeling is lost forever. I don't even think a dealer £500-£1000 alignment will bring it back, although I never tried. I am not a performance driver, and more of a regular grocery driver. The m-sports set up is plenty stiff for me. If it gets any stiffer, my grocery will surely get scrambled at the back.
  3. How do you mean seem sealed? Is there reason why it isn't really sealed?
  4. If it doesn't work then it can't be OEM. Put the old ones back or go buy BMW springs. Both the springs and shocks should be made by the same manufacturer. I don't believe bilstein made the E46 shocks. Mine had sachs. But I am reluctant to tell you to get sachs springs because when I tried a sachs shock it did not perform as good, last as long, or had the precise dimension of the BMW one. To get the non-BMW branded OEM part, you have to be 100% sure they are the same part. The problem with the suspension parts is that they mess up the the geometry if they don't match the original. Once messed up, it's very difficult to get back the original BMW feel, which is what made these cars great to drive.
  5. OK, looks like the leak was fixed. It's remarkable how long one needs to wait for rain in the UK. Not much of it but enough to conclude the test. The leak was from hair line cracks on the lower horizontal plate of the tail light recess. That plate was welded and plastered over with some kind of plaster. That plaster did not have the performance to withstand the temperature changes possibly because of ageing and hairline cracks opened up allowing water to seep in. It took extensive rain for the water to build up in the body panel for it to spill out. Because I always reverse out of my driveway to the left, the water mostly spilled out on the right and into the battery compartment. If the car wasn't driven, the water would have overflowed into the wheel well because the lowest hole in the body panel was nearest to the wheel well. I could see water/scale mark below that hole.
  6. Search NCSExpert coding. It should be quite a common thing people do and hence a lots of info out there. Every time the ABS unit is replaced, it has to be coded.
  7. Quite often the sensors built into control units can detect short circuit problems. If you get the car scanned, it might give you a rough location of the problem. Because you don't sound like you have a scanner, a scan will also give you the other problems you didn't know you have.
  8. Maybe I don't have a plug then. What I have resembles that circle thing in the top left corner of your picture. It looks like rough metal with a "+" in the middle. Yes, it's dry if the water flows out. But the water would be pooling somewhere before it flows into the wheel well. In my case, I know exactly where the water is. Even removing the plug won't help because the water is inside the body panel I have shown. The water only flows out when the cavity is filled or when sloshing around. I'll see if the water comes back after today's fix. But there's no rain just when I need it.
  9. Can you explain how that plug works? I have that metal "plug" in the wheel well and in the battery compartment. The only way I can see opening them up is by drilling. Opening the plug has disadvantages: noise, dirt, rust, and the water will continue to do damage elsewhere. It will certainly kill the battery. I think I might have found the problem, although not completely sure yet. After removing the tail light, I noticed some hairline cracks on the lower horizontal plate. Temperature changes may change the crack size. Underneath that plate is hidden. If water does come through there, then it will never be detectable. Out of curiosity, I took off the light on the other side, same cracks. To me, it seems implausible for that to be a coincidence. I see that as a "design" feature to kill the car, because both the water entry and the exit into the car are very well designed to be hidden. Anyway, I have used bathroom sealant on the cracks. Hopefully, that will be the end of it. What I need now are some heavy rains. While I was playing with the light units, one had a small amount of water in it. Turned out the the seal of the lens had started to fail. Sealed that with the silicone - should be good for another 100k miles. Nothing to do now but wait for the appearance or non-appearance of water in that cavity. I have a mini bulb that I can drop into it for quick inspections.
  10. I may have to drill a hole from the outside and risk rust. With the water going in there, there is risk of rust anyway. So the choice is between rust and rust. The cavity has no road dirt in it, which suggests it's not really open to the outside. I have assessed the supposed drains by taking out the vent cover in the battery compartment and looked and felt around that area. There's nothing there. For now, I am keeping observation and leaving all the trims off. The water had gone, I guess it leaked out from micro seams in the welding. If the water comes back from more rain, I will have no option but to take the bumper off.
  11. It turned out my car didn't have drains. The cavity where the water accumulated looked to be a dead space. It remained an impossible mystery how the water got in there. I could find evidence of water coming out from it because of water marks. There's no evidence on the boot side how the water got in there.
  12. Managed to find the likely drain holes from internet pictures. One is next to the plastic vent in the battery compartment. A similar drain also exists on the other side of the car. It's not clear what these drains are for on a coupe. I am guessing water is draining from somewhere on the roof. Because the drains are blocked, the water overflows into the boot area. The overflow appears to be a design feature. Same also happens for convertibles. When the drains for the soft-top are blocked, the water goes into the battery compartment.
  13. Worn shocks certainly produce noises, and you can't tell easily if they are completely blown. Get them replaced first before guessing further. I tried non-BWM shocks before, they were not as heavy duty as the BMW ones. Also they messed with the front alignment. I'd get dealer ones.
  14. Get scan tool. It will often give you a clue on what could be wrong.
×
×
  • Create New...