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About Ian.H

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  • Birthday 21/12/1975

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    2013 (facelift) Mercedes E63 AMG S Estate
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  1. There was always quite a staggered difference between the spacing front and rear. I think with the 15/5 combo, it kind of just evened the look out (the fronts were miles too far in IMO). No probs at all mate... glad the guide was useful.. just wish I'd noticed the images were screwed up before now (I moved my server recently and blocked off access to some parts due to abuse and didn't realise I'd blocked access to these pics too). Good luck with it mate Cheers.. Ian
  2. Glad you got it sorted mate I had 15mm spacers on the front and I think lesser ones on the rear (maybe 5mm or 6mm IIRC.. been a long time since I had it so can't remember exactly). Kids was sadly the reason I got rid of mine as my littlen was due and I couldn't fit a car seat in the back.. but IIRC, I chose smaller spacers for the rear to prevent any rubbing or arch mods being required. The fronts are easy enough.. you should find an allen key hole at the top of the shaft. I used a deep-reach 19mm (think it was 19mm anyway) ring spanner and an allen key to undo mine. If you struggle with that, you can always use a pair of molegrips or a monkey-wrench to hold the shaft as it won't matter if it gets damaged (assuming you ain't going to try and sell the old shocks ). IIRC, the coilovers either had an allen key hole or a rounded rectangular stub that you can use something like an 8mm or 10mm open-ended spanner on to keep the shaft from spinning. Safety note: If you do do the fronts, just take your time and compress /uncompress the springs gently as you certainly don't want one flying off or having the compressors spinning around to one side of the spring.. I've seen a spring take off before in a workshop and it makes a right mess of brickwork! Likewise, always work with the top cap facing away from you (I normally sit cross-legged on the floor and put the bottom of the shock in my lap and have the top cap at ~45 degrees away from me so that _if_ something goes Pete Tong, there's a bigger chance it won't take your teeth with it ). Cheers.. Ian
  3. I put them back in Marc.. the plan was to have it back to how it should be (I fitted the coilovers after I found a broken rear spring and decided I'd drop it a couple of inches at the same time). I only had it for a couple of weeks after I did this as I part-ex'd it, but it drove great (once I raised the front a bit to prevent arch rubbing!). Despite loving my current motor, I do miss my E46 and still think they're the best looking verts of the 3-series range.. definitely aged gracefully! Cheers.. Ian
  4. I definitely fitted mine at the top back when I had the motor (I _think_ I tried at the bottom and failed, hence I added the note to fit them at the top). You should be able to access the adjusters once the car's jacked up. I had to raise mine to the highest setting when I part-ex'd it and don't remember having any issues. Cheers.. Ian PS: I've fixed the image loading now so you should be able to see them again
  5. Thanks lads I was actually looking at a 2008 Range Rover Sport initially.. but we got a 61 plate VW Touran earlier in the year for my other half for the school run and for a family motor.. and as she's quite a car enthusiast too, told me we didn't need another family car, "get something fun".. and this was something she mentioned as it looked agressive to match the performance etc. We went to look at this one as it was local.. but initially I was looking for a green one.. but after seeing this in the flesh, decided that Blue was much nicer (green might have been fine for me 15 years ago.. but not being a teenager any more, decided this was more "grown up") and the mileage.. it was too good to turn down.. so after the misses saying "we're just looking today".. after we both had a test drive in it.. she was eager for me to put my autograph on the paperwork! I've got a slightly extended (12 month over the 8 month remianing of the original Ford) warranty.. but after this, thinking along the lines of a JWR 400BHP upgrade.. but am planning at least putting a set of pipes on it this year. I thought I could keep it standard.. but this is already proving hard and I've only had it 3 weeks! Cheers.. Ian
  6. heh.. on calm driving, it's actually quieter than my 330 as the exhaust flap in my exhaust was stuck open so always had a nice throaty noise to it. That might change when the pipes get replaced later this year though.. although most of my previous cars had some kind of aftermarket exhaust.. the previous E30s had Mongoose systems.. it doesn't seem right havnig a pair of pipes like that and next to no noise coming from them unless the throttle's very open Cheers.. Ian
  7. After 5 years of BMW ownership (road usable, not including various E30 buys for breaking), including an E and F plate E30 325i touring and my trusty 04 plate E46 330 vert.. the 330 got dropped off at a local Ford dealership. As nice as the vert was.. I needed something I could put an ISO-fix base in for a kid seat for my 12 month old lad. This... ...has now given way to this... ...sporting both Lux packs (7" touch screen satnav, keyless entry / start, reversing camera etc). 2010 plate with 3,400 miles. 2 very different cars.. and enjoy them both for their individual reasons.. the BMW was such a nice tourer and pleasant to be in and drive.. the FRS is more of an animal and "fun" to drive. I do miss the vert.. but the FRS is currently putting a bigger smile on my face whenever I drive it. Cheers.. Ian
  8. Hi all.. Although the car's now gone.. I took some pics a few weeks ago whilst I was fitting the JOM coilover kit to my 330 vert as the info I managed to find previously on the 'net seemed to relate to coupes etc, which after removing some of the boot trim and finding nothing, decided it was a different story for the verts.. so here's a quick set of pics that others hopefully, might find useful. Rear suspension Locate rear jacking points and jack up car and remove wheel Undo and remove bottom shock bolt Lean on the hub / disc and pull the spring out form its locators Semi-lower the roof, using the back edge of the roof to support the roof cover Remove the plastic grommets (2 each side) Remove the 2 nuts whilst steading the shock and remove completely Remove the top mount nut if you're not fitting new top mounts as they need to be transferred to the new shocks Fit the adjuster and rubber ends to the new spring Note: adjuster sits at the top of the spring Wriggle the new spring back into position and bolt up the new shock starting at the top. A 2nd jack is handy to be able to lift the hub to align the bottom bolt. Front suspension Locate jacking point, jack up car and remove wheel. Would also suggest soaking the bolts and joint where the shock goes through the hub clamp with WD40 and leave for 5 mins to act Undo and remove hub clamp bolt Undo top drop link nut Undo bottom drop link nut and remove drop link Give the hub some downwards pressure and it should separate from the shock Remove the 3 top mount nuts. Steady the shock whilst removing the last one so it doesn't juts drop out Remove the shock and attach the spring compressors, assuming you're not replacing the top mount as this needs to be transferred to the new suspension Be careful at this stage.. as removing a spring can be dangerous.. just take your time and all should be good Once the spring is compressed enough, undo to the top mount nut Attach the top mount to the new suspension leg and tighten the top mount nut ready to re-fit Bolt the top 3 nuts up under the bonnet first, but don't tighten them right up.. and mount the bottom of the shocik back into the hub clamp Attach the new, shortened drop links (I used 2004 Fiat Coupe rear drop links) Make sure everything's tightened up, replace wheel. Allow to settle for a couple of days / weeks. I had mine on the lowest setting and within 2 days, my fronts were rubbing the arches slightly when cornering under load. I adjusted these ~1" of adjustment on the threads at the front and this cured the problem running standard 225/40 18 tyres and 15mm spacers.Final result Cheers.. Ian
  9. Hi all.. Initially I thought I had a flywheel issue, but after reading more through the forum, not quite sure now. The primary symptom is when pulling away in first gear, sometimes, randomly.. it seems to pull away _really_ slowly, and then all of a sudden, launches forward like I've just floored it! (not a great look / feeling when either pulling away from the house or at lights next to a little old lady!). From what I initially read, I believed this to be a problem with the DMF.. but some posts here possibly lead me to think maybe VANOS. When switching off the car, sometimes it sounds like someone's dropped a handful of sockets into the bell housing whilst the engine spins down. IIRC, I read on here ages ago that this was generally a trait of the drivetrain anyway? but I can't remember or be certain. I dropped into the local stealers for a quote on the DMF.. and that's going to cost me £600 cash.. so trying to work out what I really need before I blow a whole stack of cash. The clutch needs doing.. hence I was looking at the flywheel (if that is the problem) at the same time as it'll have to go into the local indy due to personal time restraints. The motor's done ~113k.. an 04 plate 330 petrol cab and still has FBMSH and been well looked after. If anyone has any thoughts / suggestions.. I'd be most grateful in hearing them Cheers.. Ian
  10. Ordered me a set too Cheers.. Ian
  11. Hi lads.. For some unknown reason, my key just stopped working today. I thought maybe the battery was knackered, although I do rotate the 2 keys I have regularly.. so I tried the spare to no avail too. I've tried the suggested method (turn ignition on / off, hold down unlock, press lock 3 times) but this yields no results, with either key. Does anyone have any further ideas on what may be the issue here? Cheers.. Ian
  12. I've just bought one and whilst whenever I have the top down, the windows are always down too, when my better half is with me, her hair goes everywhere, so bought one for her benefit really. Does it work? Yup, sure does! Massive difference and a bit quieter too. Mine will live in the boot I'm guessing for the most part though as I spend more time in my motor on my own and if I wanted things around me all the time, I'd have another car with just a sunroof I think the ebay listings are pretty much "default" / "stock text" as they all seem to be identical. I got mine from a fella on cutters and other than a tiny rub mark on a bit of the frame you can't see, is in mint condition. Cheers, Ian
  13. I think the 'error' side of things with a DA isn't such a concern. IMO, it would take a fair bit to do any real damage. I think at most, you could end up with the likes of buffer trails through not breaking down the polish properly, which could easily be removed by redoing the panel "properly". Cheers.. Ian
  14. Hi Matt.. Newp.. IPA == Isopropanol... basically like a spirit wipe.. http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing/polishing-accessories/isopropanol-alcohol-ipa-500ml/prod_818.html. You can dilute it (recommended). I put about a 70/30 (IPA/water) mix in a B&Q flower sprayer (cost me about a quid). Spray on.. wipe off Cheers.. Ian
  15. You might be pleasantly surprised with the results Matt.. remember my ol' man's 15 year old Fiesta I did? I was quite surprised with those results too Just start off with a fine polish and pad and work your way up if required. I use 5 pea-sized blobs (in the shape of a + ) on the pad.. use speed 1 to smear the polish over a (roughly) 12-18" area.. then move up to speed 4 to work in, then finish off with speed 6 to make sure all of the polish is broken down (should be pretty much like a clear film by the time you've finished). Then buff off with a MF cloth. Once you've finished the polishing, wipe down with IPA (if you haven't got any, I'd recommend getting some) to make sure you don't have any residue left.. then apply your glaze and or wax. There's a good DA polishing guide on Detailing World if you're interested (can't remember the direct link off hand, but might be one of the stickies). Move the polisher around at about 2" per second. It's easy to start "dancing around" quickly with it, but try to resist as the results will be much better if the polish is worked more. Cheers.. Ian
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