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momo

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About momo

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 26/08/1982

Profile Information

  • Current Car
    E46 330d Sport
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bradford, West Yorkshire

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  1. Sorry, but did you not notice the filter when you replaced the tank? You need to remove/replace it before you can place the pump into the tank.. Not sure about the bleach idea - it's corrosive to rubber isn't it? No issues in using it to clean and soak etc.. But wouldn't leave it in there. Vinegar does the same thing but again not sure how the rubber seals would hold up. I used a pressure washer on mine last time.. If you get a right-angle nozzle (under chassis nozzle) then makes it super easy to clean out. Probably had to do mine twice in 5 years so don't mind not using anything in there.
  2. Lol. I get ya.. It's a bit of a mystery though tbh as i've seen some people have failed expansion tanks at 40-50-60k and some at 180k! My cooling system is all original @ 140k, apart from the water pump.. On diesels though the rad is also behind the intercooler so extra protection. Personally unless you're wanting to do a full refresh for the sake of a refresh and have the cash to blow on it i'd leave it all as it is and replace as/when needed. If not then like you say, where do you stop? I know I did a belt-drive refresh when I bought my car all those years ago and bought OEM parts where needed. It wasn't too much shy of £2k to get it all done (inc average priced labour). The crank pulley was £400 at the time. Alternator £450, water pump was £150, all tensioners etc.. They'll be cheaper now.. Tie a few bits together, yes.. So for example if the expansion tank blows then use the opportunity to replace the rad too. But I wouldn't go replacing bits if they're working.. IIRC the later (after the production run of E46's finished) water pumps came with a metal impeller. The crank pulley fails as it's rubber bonded to metal so when it petrifies over time it comes away, same as the prop centre support bearing.
  3. Blummin' 'eck! So you want to do a FULL-ON refresh? The crank pulley is more prone to failure on the 330d due to the torque. But no matter what engine, if it goes - get the OEM BMW one. NOT an aftermarket replacement or it'll fail in no time.. Same for the water pump tbh. Might aswell do tensioners while you have them apart. And seen as though you're in the mood to blow some cash, the PS pump is prone to failure where the shaft snaps holding the pulley. There's an uprated one available. lol. Purple tag steering rack too while you're there? Haha
  4. Sorry to hear it.. But tbh it could just be a username - this person could've had an E46 at some point and moved on. This type of situation is all too common unfortunately. Unless you have before/after photos (almost taken on the same day) then getting them to cover anything is highly unlikely. All we can do is spread the word and alert others to never use them. Leave as many reviews as possible. Unless the damage is large enough and you have proof so you can take it via the courts - nothing can be done really.
  5. Not done mine but the Rad seems pretty well protected tbh. Mine's an '03 on 140k. Still original rad. The expansion tanks are prone to failure - if you're doing that, then up to you if you want to refresh or not. Probably not much more labour wise to get that done too at the same time
  6. Might just be a faulty radio..
  7. There's loads of guys on Facebook who have done this. Best people to contact would be Las Erikas - Breaks lots of BMWs. but does lots of Auto TO Manual conversions so he may have an Auto or two at a good price for you. Nick Jupp - Owns a breakers in Swanley, Kent. Doesn't do conversions but breaks a load of E46s. He may even have a donor car available. Both would be good for advice at least. I've dealt with Nick a few times via Facebook, really nice guy! Tbh with the E46 being as rust prone as it is i'm sure it wont take long to find a donor with full running gear, but rusted out shell.
  8. Nothing weird about it - yours is a pre-facelift coupe. Same as M3. They're the ones you need. Remember there's: Pre-Facelift Coupe/Vert (inc M3) Facelift coupe/vert Pre-facelift Saloon/Touring Facelift Saloon/Touring You probably got one that fits one of the others.. If you're wanting to replace like-for-like you'll need to make sure you get the all chrome ones, there was a Chrome surround with black slats one that came on the 4cyl cars as standard. No wonder they left the passenger side one though with that hideous badge on it!! 🤣
  9. https://www.bmw-driver.net/forum/archive/index.php/t-44534.html From what others have said online it's probably best to try to upgrade to an M54 engine. There's loads of Auto 325i/330i around so plenty of parts available. Sounds like it's plug and play. Don't think there'd be any issues fitting an engine which came from a manual to an Auto box - the box is different.. Not the engine. Would probably be easier if you had a non-runner with an M54 engine though as you may want to upgrade some of the other bits like prop-shaft/diff/rear-subframe/driveshafts/brakes etc..
  10. I get you.. Hope someone can offer some advice on the body shop. But personally i'd cut my losses and get something else. Being an '01 it's going to be the pre-facelift, less powerful M57 engine. If you're doing mainly stop-start driving you'll be lucky to get 350miles from a full tank of fuel. I would take that £1800 for the repair and whatever you get for your car and trade it in for something newer, or at least with less rust. They DO exist. They're just super rare, for obvious reasons. lol
  11. Nope, there's only a hand full of people left.. This forum is probably only used for the old tech sections now by people who browse, find the info they want then disappear without saying a word.
  12. Is the car really worth £1800 in rear arches alone? Did they explain what type of repair it would be for that price? Not sure many E46's are worth that much anymore.. My rear arches are rusty too - had them repaired twice. The first time under warranty by BMW (shows how long I've had the car), came back within a 6 months and then they refused to re-do it. Then had it done privately, came back in a year again. ONLY way to permanently fix it is to cut out the rotten metal and weld fresh panels in. £1800 sounds awfully expensive! Tbh there are chemical treatments too but i'd never trust any garage to do it properly. Has to be done exactly right.
  13. Sorry, can't answer your question as I don't know the various diffs available.. But if you really want to shorten ratios - SUPERCHARGER!! 😈
  14. Brave man saying that.. 🤣
  15. Pretty sure the exterior was facelifted, not the interior. There may be differences with plugs/electronics but they should physically be the same.
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