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Everything posted by momo

  1. Looks like it.. The front should be a little higher on standards. But the rears will be the same
  2. OEM, unless you get springs from ECP will be very expensive! I think just the rears are approx £150 (they snap all the time). Remember if one of your rear springs has already snapped it'll be sitting lower anyway. Many others have fitted Sportline springs with staggered 19's and never had issues.. Sounds like there may be an issue with your setup already, or your rear tyres might be the wrong size.
  3. Eibach pro kit (black springs) on your 330i will drop the front a tad and not touch the rear. Eibach sportlines (red springs) will drop the front and close up the arch gap - you'll still be able to get your hand in over the top without bending it (to give you an idea). The rear will drop maybe 10mm.. Again, it'll just close up the arch gap. Sportlines are absolutely fine for a daily! On the diesel you can't get sportlines so pro kit is the equivalent. I've NEVER had a problem and have been able to smack into and over speed bumps at pace, with ease! Plus as a set you can't get 4 quality springs cheaper than Eibach. Plus they have 5yr warranties (which tbh is a pain to claim on as you need to remove the faulty part and send it back first).
  4. Could be tbh.. Fingers crossed it sorts it!
  5. Don't think so, once they're cleared they're gone.. Does the exhaust smell normal? Sounds like it could be a fuelling issue. Have you had the fuel filter changed? Is it under the rear seat bench on petrol models? I agree with you, can't really be HG as you'd see the oil/water mix.
  6. Not many E46 owners would go to the expense of a full respray these days as the cars are just not worth it.. I fully understand why you're doing it though. For a blow over I would say £2.5-3k is about right. Wont be a bare metal respray ofcourse..
  7. If you plan on keeping the car - get the BMW pulley.. All others wont last anywhere near as long. Otherwise Febi is your best bet as they are generally the preferred supplier for Rubber/Metal bushing/mountings on the E46.
  8. Were those codes read with a generic code reader? I'd get a BMW-specific one on there and get the codes read.. Usually clears it up a fair bit..
  9. All the facelift 330Ci's have projector headlights whether they have Xenons or not.. Something I found out recently! V.confusing.. lol. Pre-facelifts have projector/bowls as per Saloon/Touring. But coupe/vert facelift all had projectors! lol
  10. Tbh I wouldn't have thought it would be too difficult to get some LHD headlights over there and then retrofit them? Or get some aftermarket Depo headlights with Xenons from the US.
  11. No point on a 320d.. Even pushing higher power there's not much braking difference over stock. I have EBC dimpled/grooved discs and yellowstuff pads. Yes they're better than stock but it cost £500 all around (all discs and pads). Is it worth it? Nope! I don't think so.. On your 320d you're better off getting a set of 330i/d discs and pads and retrofitting them. More surface area and the whole kit can be bought cheap on eBay/Facebook.
  12. Got Vorti's on all 4 corners on mine. SUPERB tyre! Grips really well (although not as much as the older, and now discontinued Sessanta's) and seem to wear nice and slow. Wont consider any other tyre now. Also have Vred Ultrac Satin's on my wife's Astra. Brilliant tyre also but more for smaller/thinner wheels.
  13. What type of bulb was in there? Standard H7 or D2S?
  14. Check the back of the headlight unit.. It'll have a ballast and all sorts of high-voltage warnings if it's Xenon. Open the dipped beam cover and check the bulb if you want to be absolutely sure. Yes, that's correct. There's a lever on the back of the headlight somewhere which you can push and it changes the shutter angle to LHD.
  15. momo

    330 vs 325!

    Get the 330Ci.. The difference is barely noticeable but the lack of performance will be. But then if you're really that concerned with fuel economy get a diesel.
  16. A picture to show us what you mean might be helpful..
  17. The glow plug errors is usually because of the glow plug control unit. It's rare for all 4 to fail, when it alerts it's the control unit. BUT as you likely wont need them until like -7c it's up to you if you want to replace it or not. I've had my car 10+ years now and had the same issue with the control unit. That winter when it got to -20C it still started up after a few cranks. I wouldn't worry about it. However it looks as the injectors in cyl 2 & 3 aren't working right. Get them tested. Wouldn't have thought it'd be the fuel pump as i'd expect a low pressure warning across the system.
  18. The most common culprit for random alarm trips is the bonnet sensor. It fails and randomly sets off the alarm. But I've never heard of it happening while driving. Sounds like the GM5 still isn't right.. But get the codes read first - hopefully it'll help narrow it down. If possible, read them while it's going off!
  19. The crank pulley isn't too bad tbh. Just don't get a cheap one as it'll fail in no time. They're quite sensitive to the quality of pulley you use. I'd recommend a genuine BMW one tbh but at the very least get one from a reputable brand like Febi/Meyle (Febi are OEM manufacturers for a load of BMW rubber fittings so they might be for this one too). Carly might work? Used to have a cracked version years ago and remember it did a decent level of diagnostics but no idea what it's like now. Others are PA Soft/INPA which you can buy online otherwise if you know a good garage with the snap-on kit, they should read it fine too. Overall it sounds like it could work out to a good few hundred worth of parts there (presuming you will fix it all yourself so no labour). Injectors (depending how many are leaking) is the biggest cost as they're usually around £100 each for good quality replacements.
  20. 1. There's 2 belts.. The aux belt which drives the power steering/water pump etc.. And then the AC belt. Which one do you mean? Or do you mean the crank pulley failed and only the aux belt is being driven now? 2. No idea, have you had codes read? 3. This can be injector leak when warm. Would need a leak test doing to confirm. You may need to get them rebuilt/replaced (around £100 each). 4. See 2. Get codes read.
  21. White smoke isn't burning oil on petrol cars is it? I thought white would always be water.. If there's a lot of condensation in the system on the first start-up it can blow white for a few seconds until it clears.. But I don't think it's cold enough for that atm?
  22. Also don't forget most of these dealerships only have a couple of senior techs. The rest are usually juniors working towards qualifications. My car is far from mint these days but even I wouldn't let them touch it with a barge pole. And then add to that I spoke to a local independent garage and found most of the technical jobs from 2x local BMW dealerships are actually outsourced to THEM! They're a mid-sized independent dealership/garage (German car specialist) but they have 30 (yes, you read that right) lifts in the workshop! For good reason! lol Go to the independent direct and save 60% on labour costs.
  23. You already know they will! I'd get the airbags replaced, the inspection (if you want it) and be done with them as fast as I can! lol
  24. So long as it's not rusted on there you should be able to get it off with mole grips.. If it is, it's a new caliper i'm afraid.. Boooo!
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