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p3tchy

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About p3tchy

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Current Car
    320ci
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Milton Keynes
  1. The sensor will be, but the module to control it is built into the dash.
  2. Get some electrical contact cleaner and a fiber cleaning pencil, take the main plugs off and give them a clean up, spray and reconnect. Before doing that, turn the lights on and give the plugs a wiggle, see if they are loose or cause any flickering.
  3. The temp sensor control module is housed in the dash I believe. I had the same issue with an E60 and had to change the dash then get the vin changed and mileage matched to the car. What did you use to read the codes? I found INPA not up to scratch where as DIS would allow you to run individual tests on each module.
  4. Start with a code read. Could be a body control module.
  5. You can buy that black mesh designed for headlights. Suppose to not reduce the light output but I doubt that's true.
  6. It's quite common for the voltage spike to take out the 2nd bulb. Especially in xenons as they run for thousands of hours. As a rule if one of my bulbs goes, I either replace the other side or prepare for it to go. I would code read it though as the LCM could be the culprit. Do you have a spare working bulb you can try?
  7. Sparkling Graphite Metallic apparently. My M3 was steel grey. Very similar colour. No xenons I'm afraid so a H7 6k HID kit will be going in. Spec is pretty standard for a CI really. Nothing special.
  8. If your going to go to the expense of changing it, spend a few extra and get one with DAB. I will be doing mine soon. Not sure on what unit I want yet but it has to have DAB and the latest android that's available.
  9. Picked this up last week, Had a few BMW's now. First was an E46 M3 vert back in 2011. More recently had a E60 525d (sack of cr@p that was) Not much to say really, Wish I had waited and got a 330ci, the 320ci is massively under powered. But I liked the colour and the price so it will do for now.
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