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DJ Syxx

Introducing The M3

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I'm not sure I'm allowed to look at this thread while I'm fasting, too many of those feelings inside and down below  B)

Edited by The_Judge_

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Cheers guys.

After seeing the F10 M5 gear knob being fitted in quite a few cars now and being illuminated I decided to take the plunge on one. Part number for it is 25112284205.

So I got on with removing the old gear knob. After reading stories of being smacked in the face I did wonder if the same fate would happen but it was very stubborn and I couldn't lift it up but luckily I had a monkey wrench to help remove it.

I also hadn't realised or noticed my original gear knob not lighting up until I found the two wires had broken clean off the wiring connector.

My old one was quite worn and the top had started to peel so ideal time to replace:
28361585331_de831d9fe8_c.jpg784 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

The F10 M5 gearknob comes with the leather gaiter attached to the frame so you would need to remove it first by removing all the staples and then carefully detatching it from the frame as it is glued.
27823619244_588dd7a272_c.jpg785 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
28335318902_f3ae9bb884_c.jpg786 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Once that's done you need remove the gaiter off your existing frame so that you can attach the new gaiter to it. Done a quick trial fit.
27823617084_e1574cfdd5_c.jpg787 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

I used clothes pegs to position the gaiter until I was happy and then removed a few and applied adhesive so that it bonds to the frame.

Once that's done then you can fit it back to the car and connect the loom for the illumination which is plug and play and here's the result:
28361579951_0c45bc5599_c.jpg788 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
28157214970_ed8a6d0aa8_c.jpg789 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

To compliment the gear knob and after reading many postitive reviews I went ahead and bought an E60 short shift kit which is used on the 530/545/550 models. As I don't have small hands and being awkard to do on the driveway I took it to a place where a few mates had theirs done.
28193800730_08f1c6c877_c.jpg794 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

After fitting it I was really impressed, firstly the gear change now is much more precise and direct, the gear lever is not sloppy anymore which probably was down to the worn bush but makes such a nice difference. Its not too short or overly notchy so a worthwhile upgrade. As you can see the lever sits lower over the OEM.
28477002205_a1bf98b393_c.jpg795 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Part numbers are 25117546373 for the lever, 25111220600 bush and 25117571899 circlip.

Next up is the steering wheel and I got Jack at Royal Steering Wheels on the case.

After speaking with him on the phone to discuss what I wanted he got on with it and took a drive up to him to have my old one swapped over for the newly trimmed one.

I went for perforated sides and smooth top/bottom padded with cinnamon stitching and a cinnamon centre stripe.

Here's before:
28407662066_0388025659_c.jpg790 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

And after:
28361576401_dfdfd32524_c.jpg791 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
28440078515_5e28fab452_c.jpg792 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
27824004283_a7d6a9e995_c.jpg793 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

My old wheel was in pretty good condition but you can't beat this new wheel. It just feels so much nicer to grip when your driving along now.

Great service by him and would use again.

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Only just spotted this, looks fantastic. The new gear knob looks good, great work converting it over from the M5 set-up.. but the new wheel and its cinnamon stitching looks amazing, absolutely love it.

I'm planning to get my wheel done by Jack and as my car's Imola and everything else is black I was thinking red stitching - seeing your wheel has made my mind up.

Your M3 is still my favourite BTW. Love the cinnamon leather against the grey paint, best colour combo ever!

Edited by Daz 330 Cs
No need to quote a multi pic post.

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The wheel is fantastic..... its one of the reasons one just placed an order with Jack, got to get my self a re-trimed wheel, they look soooo good and I bet make for a nicer drive too. once gone with red stitching though, match my imola paintwork and red stitched gearstick and handbrake gators - can't wait to see it done and in. 

Jack's well helpful btw, highly recommended. 

Quick question....... How dificult is a steering wheel swap? including swapping the trim and button bits over to new wheel?

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Pretty simple. I was dreading it, but it's not hard. This made everything much clearer for me. 

http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/Kayger12/media/2011-02-15_18-48-45_152.jpg.html

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This car really is a work of art, everything kind of stands out but in a subtle and well integrated manner. Can't fault the photography either! Best E46 I've seen, great work 

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Long overdue update, still have the car!

So I've done what I wanted to do with the car and getting it where it is so now I'm gonna concentrate on the maintenance side and changing bits here and there and this starts off with replacing the windscreen cowl.

My one has faded badly and has cracked in areas so I ordered a replacement. The part number you need is 51718232896 and costs around £42 (2016 prices).

So here's the cowl in its current condition:
36832141923_f3cfa562ac_c.jpg926 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
36832140783_bcf996ce54_c.jpg927 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So I started by marking out the wiper position. Don't have to but just gives you an idea when you refit:
36832139483_bdaefb8f38_c.jpg928 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
36832138153_1b158e7f87_c.jpg929 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

You need to pop the cover off and undo the 15mm nut:
37501259991_5f6d378f41_c.jpg930 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Next you will need a puller tool as you won't get the wiper arm off with just pulling at it:
37501258201_bdf5262872_c.jpg931 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Once that is done, remove the pollen filter cover and filter and undo the Torx T27 bolts holding the housing. Remember to unclip the cable and hose connector beneath.
37453377136_81412344ee_c.jpg932 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

You then need to start lifting up the cowl from one side and pop it off. They are held in with clips, you may find one or two still in the body of the car so simply use pliers to remove. Once that is done you need to take the big long rubber seal off so you can use it on your new one as shown.
37453376406_f268e5bcfa_c.jpg933 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

There's the old knackered one as you will see and the manufacturer date of June 2002:
37453371766_7a232a85d8_c.jpg934 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
37453370236_33e5c493f9_c.jpg935 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Here is the new one, I coated it with black vinyl dressing:
36832147333_fe27790dd2_c.jpg936 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Fit the long rubber seal on the new one and make sure both sides are equal in terms of gap. Now you simply refit and as you will see it really freshens up the car.
37453368746_23e1e6423d_c.jpg937 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Next I finally got round to taking the car to my local dealer to have passenger and driver airbags replaced under the recall.

As you will know I had my steering wheel retrimmed and the new airbag is unit is fresher.

Before:
37501247061_74e38995df_c.jpg939 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

After:
37453364936_89c36eaa6f_c.jpg940 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

My AC diffuser comes with silver bolts which I am not a huge fan as it sticks out too much against the black. So after trying a set of replacement black bolts they lasted for all but 5 minutes and had corroded. I then found a company through ebay who sell stainless steel hex screws that are coated in black. The company is carbolts.co.uk and he said these have a special coating on them so are highly resistant to the elements/normal washing etc. So I gave them a go and happy to report they look no different to when I first swapped them.

The size you need is M4x16mm socket button in black.

As you can see it blends in much better with the gloss black of the diffuser:
37243162040_1f94605ba4_c.jpg941 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
36791233664_9b2f2e5244_c.jpg942 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
37243157690_04c226fd7e_c.jpg943 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
37453361326_b1a088c349_c.jpg944 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

More updates to come, cheers for looking.

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So as some of you know I sold off my 3 piece Oz Mito wheels. Kinda regret doing it but at the same time it was hassle maintaining them and having to adjust the ride height to have the right look.

I made a promise not to buy anymore wheels and concentrate on the car but there's always a temptation. As an ACS fan I am a big fan of the type 2 monobloc wheels so casual browsing on ebay a few years back I found a set and made a deal.

These are quite rare as they are the 10x18 rear and 8.5x18 front.

As usual I gave them to Dips at Custom Cars to refurb them back to new in the same colour.

37453358996_917000c94f_c.jpg945 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
23648754908_667ff1f48f_c.jpg946 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
37501123001_54ce12139c_c.jpg947 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
23648753248_ddfe28616d_c.jpg948 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
36831988083_fb3f8bd7e3_c.jpg949 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Had a spare set of tyres off the previous wheels so got them mounted on:
36831987223_4f4a313f45_c.jpg950 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
23648749418_99be8d6fb6_c.jpg951 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
36831984693_734333f504_c.jpg952 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

And some photos I took at Gaydon BMW Show:
37473943560_f66a71e12b_c.jpg953 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
23878704628_ac75a8344c_c.jpg956 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
37021999034_21fcd52e79_c.jpg958 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
37699705902_bf8b1ec605_c.jpg960 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
37731466601_f44673fdc9_c.jpg962 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
37061286983_8fa90b774b_c.jpg963 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
37731461581_8fda1ebd96_c.jpg964 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
37061278473_6a873de67f_c.jpg966 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
37699674552_7b03f3d055_c.jpg967 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

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nise..suit the car..audi have some like that ..seen some on newer shape(58 onwards) a4/5 cars

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Nice work on the windscreen cowl, makes such a difference. I follow you on instagram and those monobloc wheels look spot on.  I couldn't make gaydon this year, but I did really like those mito's you had 😉

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Guys this is going to be one long ass post so I hope you are sitting comfortably with a cup of tea. I'm splitting this post up into two so this one will show parts purchased and second one is removal/fitting etc.

Since owning my M3 I have always tried to keep up with the maintenance of the car and it has been relatively plain sailing until I found out my steering rack was weeping. So after looking into exactly what is involved in removing the rack I decided to give it some thought first.

So around October it had been 6 years since picking the grey beast up and apart from reciepts of parts I have bought it during that time I had a look through again the history of the car prior to my ownership.

Its not needed that much or had the common stuff replaced like track rods or other wear and tear bits. I have reciept bills for a replacement control arm and bush and apart from brake pads, coilpacks, usual servicing but not had a lot thrown at it.

So going back to giving it some thought and with the steering rack in the condition it was in I figured kill a bunch of birds with one stone. I was debating whether to tackle the job myself or give it to a independant due to time constraints with working and looking after my son. So I made a plan of doing some work myself and some will be given to a trustworthy independant.

So onto the shopping list and initial plan of work:

Refurb steering rack
New track/tie rods and ends
New gaiters and clips
New front control arms and pre pressed OEM bushes.
New lower steering column guibo
Gearbox mounts
All 3 diff seals
Updated diff bolts
Propshaft coupler (flex disc)
Propshaft centre bearing

The jobs I have decided to tackle is anything related to the front axle but this of course you need parts so I went on a shopping spree!

So I made an order for this lot:
37106616344_10011f42f1_c.jpg968 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Obligatory nuts bolts and washers:
37106576464_55a3100b30_c.jpg981 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Lemforder track/tie rods and febi gaiters.
37106612114_10f55b4c65_c.jpg969 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Lemforder control arms and bushes:
37106607874_f72cd80c7f_c.jpg970 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Diff seals, propshaft flex disc, centre bearing and gearbox mounts:
23963759818_40e3feff18_c.jpg973 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Lower steering arm joint:
37558445970_9187100fc0_c.jpg974 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Nuts and bolts:
37106576464_55a3100b30_c.jpg981 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Found something interesting. Most of these parts were not bought from the dealer but a reputable parts company for much less and are OEM parts that BMW would have sold you but with a premium. It is known that for example that lemforder supply BMW for the control arms, tie rods and bushes.

My FCA bushes are lemforder items but notice the part number has been removed along with BMW:
23963764988_68311f511f_c.jpg971 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

The front control arms here if you notice the BMW logo and ///M logo has been removed:
23963762308_231e9b1a31_c.jpg972 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

The flex disc guibo is supplied by febi bilstein but is originally made by SGF again this is the same part BM would have sold you notice the removed part number and BMW logo:
23963745098_7d3128041c_c.jpg977 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
23963748408_caeff6957a_c.jpg976 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

The centre bearing supplied through febi bilstein also has the BMW and part number removed:
23963733588_daa3ba1c88_c.jpg980 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
23963741048_4d057e7227_c.jpg978 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
23963767578_f86e84a2d9_c.jpg979 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Edited by DJ Syxx

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So onto starting the jobs. If you plan on doing a power steering overhaul, be warned. Its a very messy job and will require a little patience as you will have fluid coming out of every orifice you can think of.

As the steering rack and lower joint was to be removed, straighten your wheel first and then lock the steering wheel. Do not under any cirumstance unlock it and move it about so you can get make life easy for removing certain bolts as you will be in s**t creek when it comes to making sure everything is straight.

First you need to remove the undertray which is 7mm bolts dotted around easy to do. Once that is done you now need to remove the aluminium chassis plate taking off all 12 bolts. You need a 17mm socket for these.
25452126577_c2ddc2b79d_c.jpg982 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Now onto the outer track/tie rod and get a 16mm socket on the nut and crack it open. The nut is a one time use only so with your new rods, it will come with a new nut. I found it was easy to undo for a bit and then gave some resistance so you will need a longer bar so you can give it more torque to remove.
25452124857_5965ac872e_c.jpg983 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Once its off you will need to use a ball joint seperator tool to free it from the hub or a pickle fork and hammer it out. Once both ends are free you now need to start extracting power steering fluid from the resovoir.

To access it I had to remove my airbox and then it was a case of using my fluid extractor. You can use a suction baster etc.
25452123577_bec082e9e9_c.jpg984 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Now back under the car as you can see both sides of the rack is weepy fluid which points to the seals in the rack have failed.
25452121677_777fb0bf18_c.jpg985 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
39425695685_6d307436e2_c.jpg986 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Took the one time use oetiker clips off
25452118307_252aedd5d3_c.jpg987 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Used my special tool to clamp and remove the inner tie rod from the rack:
40278020602_c7d93c43f9_c.jpg988 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Pictured is the steering coupler. You need a E10 socket to remove and there is two. The one below you will need an E10 wrench as you won't get a ratchet on there.
38514392030_3cd4b93e3f_c.jpg989 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

If you're removing the control arms, the middle nut is a 22mm and is awkward to remove with a ratchet. I found it was easier to use the double spanner method to crack them open so patience is needed to remove.
25452115217_067032f0e8_c.jpg990 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
38514388140_be1c93c15e_c.jpg991 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

The rack is bolted through the subframe using a 15 and 16mm nut and bolt and are simple to remove:
38514385730_45f104e35a_c.jpg992 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

You then need to remove the lines off the rack, so starting with the banjo bolts which are 22mm and 19mm. The banjo bolts have a crush washer either side so you will need new ones. You will need a pan to catch the fluid so will be a little waiting game:
39612131164_7caf999378_c.jpg993 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
38514382310_d168fd12ae_c.jpg994 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

The lines have a 10mm bolt that connects to the rack so you will need to remove that:
39612128074_840d6ef3c1_c.jpg995 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Once that's done the rack is out:
38514378370_0a41310aba_c.jpg996 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

One of the hoses is a high pressure hose and that goes to the power steering pump so after reading up about owners having to replace them or rebuilding due to leakage I decided to get it refurbed. So simply remove the 22mm banjo bolt from the pump. Again be careful as fluid will seep out:
39425626915_86c31ee51c_c.jpg997 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Rack and steering coupler removed:
38514376790_1965a2c7ff_c.jpg998 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

High pressure hose removed and ready for rebuilding:
40278016162_c628784f99_c.jpg999 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Looking a little bare. I dropped the antiroll bar from the brackets as it got in the way:
39425673245_4612a12381_c.jpg1000 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So with the overhaul I decided to remove the pump. It was in working order but figured it would save time later on from having to deal with it later. I also wanted the original pump refurbed rather than buying an exchange unit just for OCD more than anything.
38514372570_713809f0a5_c.jpg1001 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
26451518298_6402df59d7_c.jpg1002 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
39425670605_e489b4ebb2_c.jpg1003 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So while the rack and pump was sent off for rebuilding. I got on with other things that needed doing. One of the things I noticed was when replacing my drive belts two years back, the deflection pulley was making a skateboard sound when you spun it so I got on with removing it IIRC is a 16mm bolt:
26451515318_14129e8fcf_c.jpg1004 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Removed:
26451513358_303d931e82_c.jpg1005 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

As I was working in the same area I removed the old adjusting pulley as I found that was exhibiting similar symptoms. To remove you need a Hex H8 male socket bit:
26451511748_b2da0fd548_c.jpg1006 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Removed:
26451509378_5be7d0cd80_c.jpg1007 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So in with the new and bought genuine ones from BMW which are INA branded:
39425664105_c9b8bb9d3c_c.jpg1008 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
26451506348_f19c30e0ea_c.jpg1009 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Note the deflection pulley has a notch and is off centre so you simply fit it back in the same way:
26451504498_7ab641f9d7_c.jpg1010 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
39425659885_bbbbf58724_c.jpg1011 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So this left me with removing the final lines and power steering resoirvoir. You have a hose connecting from the resoirvoir to the cooling coil. Word of warning these are a nightmare to remove as they use a quick disconnect fitting. The tool to remove it is one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009VI9P62/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=pda0e-21

So I got the first one off:
39425658155_5751693510_c.jpg1012 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Unfortunately the second one which is one of the power steering lines to the coil did not want to come off with the tool. It was literally siezed on and no amount of WD40 helped with freeing it up.

So I ended up having to carefully cut the shell of the clip using a mini dremel. As you will see there was no way it could be removed as corrosion had set in.
39425656725_cc2843db3a_c.jpg1013 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Finally free:
40323335461_21a1e17690_c.jpg1014 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Old parts chucked away and new parts on order:
39425653425_62613c658a_c.jpg1015 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

My rack came back from Western Power Steering all rebuilt and should last for a long while with no issues:
40323333351_b3b3470dbc_c.jpg1016 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

The rebuilt pump came back from ACS Powersteering:
39425650785_eec8cafa1b_c.jpg1017 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
40323331751_aa29d9852d_c.jpg1018 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
40278047952_c4d82bb4dd_c.jpg1019 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

After finding out that the main pressure hose was over £200 from the dealers I settled on rebuilding my existing one. So I took it down to Pirtek to have it rebuilt while retaining the banjo connectors and cooling loop. There's also a reason I asked them to keep the loop intact as you will see later:
26451465678_68d280dca2_c.jpg1020 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Brand new hoses ordered and new Vaico tank:
26451490938_b320c6e9ec_c.jpg1021 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
25452048617_780af82e70_c.jpg1022 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Tie rods lengthened the same to the existing ones and new gaiters fitted:
40323329421_9db2d8a1ab_c.jpg1023 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So was time to fit it all back. The steering coupler if you notice there is a notch you simply place the coupler in the correct orientation so that the E10 bolt goes through recess:
25452047457_da98aaf4f9_c.jpg1024 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
25452078287_52c1b10ae3_c.jpg1025 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Onto the control arms, when taking them off remember to remove the xenon self levelling adjuster. The clip that goes round the control arm is a bit of a pain to remove so careful not to break it. Once its removed, fit it on last once you have the control arms in:
25452076237_4ae9f925d1_c.jpg1026 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Next was to put the new bushes/brackets onto the arms. Get some fairy liquid and water for lube and push it on. Ensure its put on in the correct position ie not to far in. I used my existing arms as a guide to match:
39425642965_b837ee2ba0_c.jpg1027 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Fitted and ready to go on:
40278040682_6d2facf5a6_c.jpg1028 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

While everything was out and with easy access I decided to replace the o2 sensors on the manifolds. You simply remove the engine cover off to expose the plugs. To remove the o2 sensors on the manifolds, you will need a special socket for this which can be bought on ebay.
25452069157_e4b1727282_c.jpg1029 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Brand new Bosch sensors. Do one sensor at a time so you don't get mixed up:
40278036652_01789e832c_c.jpg1030 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So this brings us back to the power steering lines and the reason I kept the coil on the main pressure hose. As you will see it is connected up to the other power steering line using a special type of rubber grommet which can be bought seperately. However they are pricey at £10 each from the dealer. This would likely explain why the high pressure hose costs a lot as it has those 3 grommets attached to the coil.

My ones had broken in half and had been held together with cable ties. So rather than doing this and for the matter of principle of not paying £30 for a small piece of rubber that will degrade again, I made up my own using plastic nylon spacers at approx the right length to the original grommets. So I found a company who sell on ebay and bought a pack of 10 for £3.70 and got some nuts and bolts from my work place.

So here's the rubber grommet:
39612088844_bf39fefa90_c.jpg1031 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

And replacements:
39425635715_a300bd2d30_c.jpg1032 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So got the rack back and was time to fit the lines back in as you will see its connected together:
40323317931_f585467dd1_c.jpg1033 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
40278029872_f343aa1ab8_c.jpg1034 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
40278028022_57b447d0c1_c.jpg1035 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Then it was a case of putting the tank in, and connecting up the quick release lines to the cooling coil.
40278026632_8a85c2257d_c.jpg1036 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
40278024792_dc2c558991_c.jpg1037 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Final inspection and all fitted in place:
40278023412_7063eaff07_c.jpg1038 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
26451462048_614cfb0f8f_c.jpg1039 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

All I needed to do now was fill up the power steering reservoir with fresh fluid and checked for any leaks before dropping the car back down.

So next was a wheel alignment so took it down to Wheel Power on a recommendation from Tony. So with now everything lined up correctly it will be outstanding jobs which I'll give to an indy to do.

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I like your rubber grommet idea, mine have perished on my 330 so will pinch your idea :-)

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On 12/03/2018 at 13:01, Ruesta said:

I like your rubber grommet idea, mine have perished on my 330 so will pinch your idea :-)

That's the ones you need. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-x-Jet-Black-Nylon-Plastic-SPACERS-Standoff-Washer-M2-M3-M4-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12/302019421824?var=600817062684&hash=item4651c2a680:m:mHlsiUJSKp3eLtxPNDpk12A

I bought the M6 size and 15mm length. Think it was a 30mm bolt and nut to hold in place. :)

Edited by DJ Syxx

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3 hours ago, avalaugh said:

Great work, how much did Pirtek charge may I ask?


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They charged me £100 to rebuild. Took less than an hour too.

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They charged me £100 to rebuild. Took less than an hour too.

Thanks, I can get a new one on eBay for £80 for my 330, I’ll look into it.


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On 15/03/2018 at 09:03, Aspire_Dan said:

This may be my favourite car on the forum :wub:

Whereabouts in London are you based Syxx? Would be great to see you and the car at a meet!

Thanks mate far from mint now but got some plans this year. I'm in NW.

 

On 15/03/2018 at 12:12, avalaugh said:


Thanks, I can get a new one on eBay for £80 for my 330, I’ll look into it.


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You probably might be able to at that price as the one on the M3 is specific and they charge a bomb now. Last I checked it was £220. If its fairly cheap for your 330 grab it while you can as it seems a lot of parts in general are going up.

 

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On 13/03/2018 at 21:55, DJ Syxx said:

Oh wow, thanks, that's excellent. ;)

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