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SPYMAN

Passenger Warning Light -- By-Pass ?

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Hi guys,

My Sons car has started getting the warning light, & he's looking into the 'by-pass' units.

Any idea what the by-pass's consist of ? Being rather cynical, I thought it might just 'short out' the blue/white cable.

I saw one on e-bay - without a case etc, just looked like a blue & white cable soldered together & hidden in a sheath.

Are these things worth using ?

Any other advice appreciated.

thanks folks

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I have used them before, and its just a resistor soldered in line, so it gives the same resistance as the seat mat. Only thing is, either the airbag will deploy all the time, or not at all. Depends on the resistor in line.

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Thanks guys.

Have now seen a diagram & parts list, so will attempt to make my own. I think I have suitable resistors, but need to get a diode.

As usual in these cases, the delivery is dearer than the item, in this case over 100% dearer.

I'll post back when I've done it (if my Son agrees - after all, it is his car !?)

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Thanks for your help guys.

I made a by-pass ‘module’ today and am eager to try it on the boys car.

In the meantime - & Justin Case there is anyone who hasn’t already read up on this – here’s how I did it. Obviously, the information came from the forum pages & I merely copied them – thanks to all.

1 x 1N4001 Diode

2 x 100ohm resistors (as sods law prevails, as soon as they arrived, I found my existing stash)

2 x bits of wire (blue & white)

1 x 2” strip Shrink Wrap.

I cut the tails off the resistors & diode, leaving usable stumps of about 3/16th inch, which I tinned (put solder on).

I then soldered a resistor to both ends of the diode (image 1). Diodes have a silver band at one end & need to run the proper way. In this case, the resistor on the silver end connects to the blue wire (image 2). The resistor on the non silver end connects to the white wire (if you have some. I don’t have white, so used green – see images).

When bending the blue wire to run parallel with the components, the insulation of it separates it from the components.

I then fed the unit into a piece of Shrink-wrap & heated to shrink (image 3+4) Job done.

This is the first time that I’ve done this, so obviously not professional. As I now have a few items over, and am disabled, I have the time to make a few of these if required. Interested parties please PM me.

post-4223-0-91929200-1326198051_thumb.jp

post-4223-0-21400800-1326198065_thumb.jp

post-4223-0-90655800-1326198075_thumb.jp

post-4223-0-86406400-1326198084_thumb.jp

Edited by SPYMAN
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Thanks for your help guys.

I made a by-pass ‘module’ today and am eager to try it on the boys car.

In the meantime - & Justin Case there is anyone who hasn’t already read up on this – here’s how I did it. Obviously, the information came from the forum pages & I merely copied them – thanks to all.

1 x 1N4001 Diode

2 x 100ohm resistors (as sods law prevails, as soon as they arrived, I found my existing stash)

2 x bits of wire (blue & white)

1 x 2” strip Shrink Wrap.

I cut the tails off the resistors & diode, leaving usable stumps of about 3/16th inch, which I tinned (put solder on).

I then soldered a resistor to both ends of the diode (image 1). Diodes have a silver band at one end & need to run the proper way. In this case, the resistor on the silver end connects to the blue wire (image 2). The resistor on the non silver end connects to the white wire (if you have some. I don’t have white, so used green – see images).

When bending the blue wire to run parallel with the components, the insulation of it separates it from the components.

I then fed the unit into a piece of Shrink-wrap & heated to shrink (image 3+4) Job done.

This is the first time that I’ve done this, so obviously not professional. As I now have a few items over, and am disabled, I have the time to make a few of these if required. Interested parties please PM me.

did it work?

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