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TriggerFish

Joe's E30 325i Sport - new engine started!

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The bits under the battery? Fine on the driver's side, mostly. Needs a tiny, square, simple patch underneath, but the driver's passenger's side is shagged.

Edited by TriggerFish
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Also, why dont people just leave the rust if they cant sort it rather than just f*** everything up even more? Dont understand it as I would try to sort things properly or just leave it alone, sadly this kind of bodgery goes on regularly with some muppets even paying someone else to do it!

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Challenge accepted!

Another day at it, and the rear driver's arch is as done as we're going to get it. There's still this hole, which I'll leave to a body shop for fear of damaging the 'outer'/visible skin:

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I had some fun poking around the floor with good, and bad, news.

In good news, the massive hole is actually a removable panel - so I need to buy two more of those from BMW:

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In bad news - it turns out mastic hides a multitude of sins:

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^ That's the passenger's side - yet to be opened out.

This is the driver's side, only semi opened out:

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That perfect circle hole has another removable panel to drop in, so no panic there!

While I was there with my camera, I also grabbed a couple of shots of some of the old Austin 7s up there:

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I think that's one piece of ali for that body work!

This gets raced:

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As does this:

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They can reach upto 90mph, apparently. I've driven one and found it semi-scary at moderate (30mph?) speeds. I imagine doing 3 times that on drum brakes would be terrifying!

And a pointless shot of them both together:

_DSC0717.jpg

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Looks like you are digging your way through the rust nicely. Just make sure you have all the sound deadening up as I found this hid a few nasties on mine. :unsure:

By the way that hole in the drivers footwell (in pic with your throttle pedal detached) is a common one caused by BMWs shell transport brackets - NOT jacking points as some people perceive. You just need to weld new metal and not bother with a new bracket. :thumbsup:

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Yep, seems to be common misconception that they're to be used for jacking. I'll be leaving it as a curve, and not bother rebuilding it so some MOT tester/tyre guy doesn't make the same mistake again. Thanks for the advice though :)

It seems to us that the floor/lower bulkhead rusting out is what has then caused the sills to go. So all this pain for someone not doing one job properly. For the want of a horse, the war was lost springs to mind.

And agreed on the sound proofing. Slowly grinding/peeling it away with a screw driver. Will buy a load of Dynamat or something to replace it with once I'm all done with the welding.

My dad's working on fixing up our welder as I type, so hopefully I can bring it home soon and he/I can make a start on some of the easier sections - like the floor, where it's flat/one simple curve and easy to access. Should aid progress nicely, as it's about 45-50minutes away atm.

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New sills arrived today :)

2014-05-06174445.jpg

Luckily they go right up the upright part where the weather seal strip goes, which should mean they're a lot easier to fit as they just butt up - no need to overlap/joddle the new ones.

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Ordered some Bilt Hamber stuff to treat the metal/welds. Still need to add a little to that collection, but it's a start.

2014-05-10175945.jpg

Also picked up a new black carpet (£60)after I destroyed mine (plus it's much better condition) and a new heated rear window switch as mine has a crack down the middle of the light up section (£4)

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Another day, another hole. -_-

It's the battery box, and should be simple to fix as it's just a square with a fold at the back.

2014-05-11144742.jpg

On the bright side, the cats are enjoying having some car seats in the house again. He was in there when I left at 11ish, and was still there on my return 5 hours later. I wish I were a cat.

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I did managed to strip the headlights out so I can make a start on cleaning those up and replacing the missing headlight retainer stop, and try and bring some life back into the dead chrome rings.

Edited by TriggerFish
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Not much to report really. My dad's done a bit of welding to the battery box, but that's about it.

I had this morning off work though, so went in search of classic car restoration places to ask about getting the sills done.

I tried three places, with three different results.

The first place clearly didn't want the work and quoted 'about a grand'. (Plus paint)

The second was a lot more helpful, and had done the job to his own E30. He reckoned about £1,500 with a 6-8 lead time. (Plus paint)

The third place is the guy I saw previously about getting work done outside MK, and who offered me the use of his workshop to weld the car up myself. I'd got a price before of about £700 for some touching in of a couple of places and some tidying up.

He said about another grand to do the sills. (Repair inner and replace outer with my supplied parts.)

Or, if I strip and rebuilt the car to/from a rolling shell (with the engine still in, but nothing in the cabin or boot or any glass), it would be £4k to do the sills, any rust at all that he came across, including the scuttle and flitch panels, and a full inside and out respray (with photographs provided).

Option three is my current preferred option. Yes it's a crap load of money, but I know it'll have been done, will have been done well, and it won't be several weekends of my time spent doing tiny bits of progress to a much lower quality. I'm also at the stage where I daren't touch anything for fear of whatever else maybe lurking within, and this would remove that fear completely...

It's just that price is hard to justify, but given the way their values are going, maybe it's not too bad...

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He said he'd take them as a matter of course.

I'd put aside £800 (from the Easter weekend's overtime) to pay for him to do some work anyway, so using man maths, it's only really £3.2k to pay... ("only". Ha!)

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Argeed. 2002 easily.

i think ima go with 3, its the sanest choice, but just hard to initially justify spending the equivalent of last years (pre-graduation, student) salary on some paint...

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Why don't you get Edd China to do it? In all my years of watching Wheeler Dealers, they have NEVER charged for his (or Paul's) labour, you could save a fortune!

Seriously though, good luck, real labour of love, I like :)

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Yeah I went to look at an 02 at the weekend but as soon as I pulled up and saw a concourse 76 911 turbo a concourse tii and the most perfect 02 on bbs rs I'd ever seen I realised it was way above my price bracket :(

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I'd go for no.3 too, depending on how long you're planning on keeping it.

I *might* have a 1976 2002 rolling shell soon that someone might want for a project - will post details if/when it happens.

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That seems a lot to do the sills etc, I think to be honest there are not many people about these days that want to take on this k7nd of work, theyre just not interested. I have just had a couple of bits done on my 28 (will get some pics up soon) and the guy was well up for it as hes into older stuff and he said it made a nice change to mundane serviceing and working on trucks, a lot of peoples idea of welding is just slapping a plate over the rotton bits.

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I'd go for no.3 too, depending on how long you're planning on keeping it.

I *might* have a 1976 2002 rolling shell soon that someone might want for a project - will post details if/when it happens.

Please message me details and any pics you have I am interested and in no rush

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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