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Sam

What to buy to do a full clean on black?

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So, as the car is still pretty clean, I want to do a full clean and protect on it. Seal the wheels, wax etc.

I've got 2 buckets, a mit and a few auto glym stuff.

Tell me what to buy! Want to do it this weekend.

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I've tried many and the best I've found is Autoglym high definition wax, the only down side to it is, it's a workout to apply and buff off, oh and its not cheap to buy but well worth it as it last for ever.

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I've recently just done this on my e46 (grey though)

Went autoglym in the end. Shampoo wash, Super resin polish (highly regarded just about everywhere) and then Extra gloss protection' as the sealant. My first time doing it all and am very impressed. With the rain in the last week it simply beads off and the car feels 'soft' from where it's been protected!

20150704_203256_zpsrw0lopsx.jpg

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They are newly refurb'd (the wheels). I could get away with SurefxHD and C5?

Think I'm going to tackle the wheels this weekend (off car), and do the body an other.

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You'll still need to decontaminate them properly, otherwise the C5 won't stick.

And if you've driven the car, there will be brake dust on the wheels. IronX will turn purple in contact with brake dust.

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Black can be a nightmare, if you use correct products / clean detail correct, wash with autoglym , rinse ,then clay car a panel at a time,

Once done car give another wash , then once rinsed off , dry, top it with wax ,car will look lovely , feel smooth for a long time....

This is how I do mine no polish! Feels looks lovely for awhile and a few more washes ☺

Edited by And617y
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Extra bit off protecting , but polish isn't necessarily..,,, all the rest an look an feel lovely for longer, I know what I'm talking bout I'm a car detailer. Didn't say poor boys wheel sealant I use since coming on site, can use normal wax for wheels

Edited by And617y
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Andy, no offence but if you went on detailing world & said you put polish on after wax, you'd get shot down in a ball of flames! You put polish on on to fill swirl marks, the wax to protect your hard work! It's well documented all over the Internet.

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You need to get the paint properly clean before you do anything else.

Start with either a citrus pre was or snow foam to try and remove as much dirt as possible before you touch the car with a mitt.

Follow that with a 2 bucket wash using a decent shampoo (poorboys slick and suds is my go to shampoo product.

Next while the car is still wet use iron x. Spray over entire car and leave few a few minutes to do its job. You can also use a small wet sponge/foam applicator pad to give the iron x a light rub on each panel. Don't leave the iron x on too long and definitely don't let it dry. Rinse well.

Next is an equally important stage that nobody has mentioned yet. De-tarring! I use Tar-X but there are other decent products out there (tardis being one). Again it's good to spray on, leave to dwell for a few minutes to melt the tar spots but then you can agitate it with another foam applicator pad.

After rinsing well again I always 2 bucket wash again to make sure all the paint is completely free from any left over product.

Then it's time to get out the clay bar and lube. Once you've clayed the whole car give it another 2 bucket wash before drying with microfibres towels (Asda sell massive drying towels for around £3 and they are brilliant for the money)

At this point the next stage depends on paint condition. If there's swirls and light scratches you'll need to attack it with either a DA or a rotary. Only ever use a rotary if you know what your doing or you risk doing some serious damage to the paint. I use a DA with a various combinations of pads and polishes. Always start with light polish and pads first to see if you get the correction your looking for. If not then move up to a slightly more abrasive polish and harder pad. Do this in gradual stages so that you find what you need without jumping straight in with a really abrasive compound and hard pad and doing damage! The Menzerna range of polishes are superb and I tend to go with either Rupes or 3M pads.

If your paint is free from swirls and scratches you could try using a glaze. The results a decent glaze will get you can be awesome. My favourite is a product called Prima Amigo. Apply via DA polisher with a finishing pad.

Next it's time for LSP (last stage protection). My favourite product at the moment is CarPro Hydro2. It's an amazing product and pretty simple to use. But most importantly is VERY quick to apply and saves on a lot of elbow grease! Spray on a wet car one panel at a time and then jet wash it to activate it. Then flood rinse to ensure all excess product is removed. There's some really good YouTube videos demonstrating how to apply and it's worth having a look before using Hydro2.

It's a great sealant which should last around 3 months. And it's great to use on alloy wheels too

Ron

Edited by Sunglasses_Ron
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Mine needs a machine Polish, black paint unfortunately shows every mark - and I have a fair few! I don't suppose anyone's in the south east with one and wants to make some cash fixing my tatty paint? :D

I have a mate who's pretty good, he's in Addlestone which isn't a million miles away from you. See RJ detailing on facebook, speak to Russ. Tell him I put you on to him if you like.

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