Jump to content
330CDT

What do you use to remove your wheels? Noob question.

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

As I'm pretty new to working on cars one thing I've never really done is take off my wheels. I know the process, and was just wondering what you guys use?

Because today I went to remove my rear to get the space saver on and there was no way in hell I could. I used the wheel nut 'thing' from the boot toolset and had no luck.

Also I have a normal ratchet tool set but couldn't manage with that even with a breaker bar albeit not massively long.

I only have the small head sockets, 17mm. Which meant I had to use my little extension (another moving part..) and I just got nowhere and felt like a right bellend.

 

I want to get the correct tools for the job, I'm thinking one of these.. = http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/sockets-accessories/halfords-professional-deep-socket-17mm-1-2-drive

 

And then what, some kind of bigger 'bar' or torque wrench? I'm worried the usual tyre / wheel places just do them up too tight and probably without copper grease in some cases as these felt ridiculously tight/rusted on. Would be a nice job for me to go round, detail my wheels, maybe even replace all the bolts to make them look well at the same time. (With copper grease!) and to the correct torque setting.

 

Cheers guys!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1/2 Deep 17mm socket is a good start, a good sized breaker bar of the same drive 1/2 for undoing the wheels and a torque wrench for doing the wheel bolts up to the correct torque.

All available from Halfords and tbh Halfords professional tools are plenty good enough for home mechanics.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks mate. I'll check out their range and post back here to check I'm looking at the right thing lol. I've seen they sometimes have half decent offers on tools so I'm in no rush could wait it out. Definately the way forward as I have the jacks and stands etc, just got defeated by a few bolts! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As above, also with the breaker bar, crack off the bolts with the wheel still on the floor but obviously do not take them all the way out until the car is jacked up, also while your working on the car never ever just rely on the jack especially if your using a scissor jack from the boot, invest in a set of good quality axle stands they may save your life, in fact invest in a trolley jack too, much safer and easier to use than a scissor jack. Again halfords do some decent kit, about £80 will get you two axle stands and a jack and they'll last you years

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Aye 1/2 inch 3ft breaker bar and 17mm socket, however my socket is rubber coated to protect the wheels

Sent from my LG-H815

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers you legends, that was easy enough.

Yes Dan I was attempting to 'break' them before I jacked it up. I have both trolley jack and axle stands also from Halfords which seem to work well, I have this hockey put shaped adapter that fits the E46 jacking points which works perfectly too! Quick question is when jacking, I use the dedicated jacking points (4 I believe) located near to each wheel. Where would you then put an axle stand? As the jacking points are in use by the jack lol. Is there some kind of rail further in they can go on? Cheers.

Anyway,

Looks like I have more stuff to buy! :)

Breaker bar =

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/halfords-advanced-professional-breaker-bar-24-1-2-drive

 

Deep 17mm socket =

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/sockets-accessories/halfords-professional-deep-socket-17mm-1-2-drive

 

Those 2 = £34, 10% discount 'TOOLS10' = £31. Not bad value at all really.

 

Chimp that's a great idea, is it like an insert you buy or a specific socket? I can't seem to find any!

 

Cheers all.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Halfords sell the plastic coated deep sockets howerever I found it did more damage so don't buy that one.

As for axle stand position,  just a bit further under the car inline of the jacking point you will find the chassis rail, sits a little lower than the rest of the floor,  put the axle stand under that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The tools in the boot should be adequate for a wheel change. If you can't undo the nuts by hand with the tool in the boot, put it on the nut and apply anticlockwise pressure with your foot, that should crack them off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
45 minutes ago, dontpannic said:

The tools in the boot should be adequate for a wheel change. If you can't undo the nuts by hand with the tool in the boot, put it on the nut and apply anticlockwise pressure with your foot, that should crack them off.

Think the OP was just looking for ideas for tools to help out with jacking the car up and taking the wheels off more often.

You are right though the tools in the boot will take a wheel off but the widow maker jack is terrible and the wheel brace is awful, fine for emergency's but that's it! I even bought a bar and socket to keep in the boot for the day i get caught out with a puncture and a can of tyre weld if its raining. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/25/2016 at 20:58, R11CH said:

Think the OP was just looking for ideas for tools to help out with jacking the car up and taking the wheels off more often.

You are right though the tools in the boot will take a wheel off but the widow maker jack is terrible and the wheel brace is awful, fine for emergency's but that's it! I even bought a bar and socket to keep in the boot for the day i get caught out with a puncture and a can of tyre weld if its raining. 

 

It's just that he mentioned putting the spare on. At the side of the road with a puncture you're unlikely to have all your tools with you so the stuff in the boot is more than good enough. Just needs a bit of force if the nuts were done up over-torque.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

a two foot length of scaffolding bar is a great help with tight bolts,but ive found the stock wheel brace more than adequete

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

20160127_155526.jpg20160127_155933.jpg

 

 

Picked these up for £30.10 at halfrauds. Wanted the halfords deep socket and reserved online but apparently it had been stolen (from the locked cabinet) so found this random one with a protective covering / material to avoid damaging alloys. Just hope it's man enough for the job. Certainly feels very well made! Got it for the same price as the other one once I asked lol.

 

First steps and all haha. Cheers guys.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its  a bit of a faff, but I use the bmw jack at the jacking point to lift one side of the car high enough to get the real jack undneath the car at the centre,  the is a link to impees e46 diy guide showing the two best jacking points, google for it.  I then use the jack to take the load and lift the rear (or front end) high enough to get the axle stands under the jacking points (you don't need the BMW) jack anymore at this point,  then remove the jack once the car is safely on the stands. 

 

You should be able to do and undo the bolts by hand, I bought a long torque wrench from Halfords and that deep blue socket shown above.  The torque wrench has enough leverage and helps you torque up the bolts correctly afterwards. 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...