gizmo Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 Hi I'd very much like to have a go at restoring my two wheel arches on my BMW 330i sports. I realise this is not something most people would want to do when they haven't done it before, but I like to attempt things myself where I can and generally know what my limits are. For example, I just paid £300 to have the rear brake pipes replaced because that is not something I can do myself. I have read a few posts and seen a couple of YouTube videos, and the process doesn't seem too hard providing that no welding is needed. I wonder if any of you could look at the photos attached and see if you think that looks like a job that an amateaur can do hisself? I have had a quote for both sides and it was £300. He didn't seem to think the damage was "too bad" so I assume that means he thinks it is something that can be fixed without welding. Any of you have experience at bodging and sanding and spraying? I have a garage to do the spraying in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriggerFish Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 I'm planning to do mine myself soon. Grind them back, see what's what. Treat with that killer stuff and respray. Getting a good paint match will be the hardest thing I think. The rest should be easy, as long as the rust isn't too advanced Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriggerFish Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 Worth taking the sill covers off too and checking they're ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rasa Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 13 hours ago, gizmo said: Hi I'd very much like to have a go at restoring my two wheel arches on my BMW 330i sports. I realise this is not something most people would want to do when they haven't done it before, but I like to attempt things myself where I can and generally know what my limits are. For example, I just paid £300 to have the rear brake pipes replaced because that is not something I can do myself. I have read a few posts and seen a couple of YouTube videos, and the process doesn't seem too hard providing that no welding is needed. I wonder if any of you could look at the photos attached and see if you think that looks like a job that an amateaur can do hisself? I have had a quote for both sides and it was £300. He didn't seem to think the damage was "too bad" so I assume that means he thinks it is something that can be fixed without welding. Any of you have experience at bodging and sanding and spraying? I have a garage to do the spraying in. if you dont cut the rust out and weld new metal in,then the rust will return,i have a bit of rust both rear arches and maybe do myself,and for the brake lines,i got my rear pipes done(copper)and was only charged £70 so i think someone has had ya eyes out,the pipes were only done to the centre and not all the way to the cylinder,also the petrol tank does not have to be dropped to fit the pipes,so if he has done that then was not needed. TriggerFish 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriggerFish Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Even if it holds it off for 6 months, that's good enough for me. Mines not worry spending the money on to it properly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gizmo Posted April 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Have you guys got any advice\instructions on the full range of steps to take? I gather the rust and rotton stuff is generally taken off with a sander\grinder head (there's a specific grinder head I think? Do you know it's name?), then it should be treated with some kind of stopper\sealer (again, what is the appropriate stuff to use), then the bodge is fitted, then its sanded with a series of fine sandpaper but again, I suspect it's specialist sandpaper for the task? My Googling didn't reveal a particularly useful step-by-step guidance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Grind back as far as you can, until there's bare/pitted steel underneath. Treat with rust-eze (or equivalent) Fill with body filler Sand back with something coarse like 800g paper to get the contour you want, then move to more finer papers such as 1500, then finally 3000g to finish up. Them primer (you can even use red-primer which has anti-oxidising properties) then you're ready for paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bennno2005 Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Those arches are f**ked, if you just grind and fill it I give it 6 months before it looks the same or worse. Needs the rust cutting out and new metal welding in. feva 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feva Posted May 1, 2016 Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 Those arches are f**ked, if you just grind and fill it I give it 6 months before it looks the same or worse. Needs the rust cutting out and new metal welding in. ^^^^^ this. Paid someone to do mine, grind out and re-paint. Came back worse 6-9months later. Fresh metal welded in is the only way to do it. Sent from my Note 4 using tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcarazdiego10 Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 You need to wire wheel it back or grind cut out the metal put some new metal weldin it then body filler 80 grid to shape then 150 and prime guide coat 320 n tape is your bestfriend for body line 600 or 800 and paint that s**t need to do holed quarter panel so you dont get a hardline or halo or paint flaking.. best do it right.. or wire wheel that back some rust treatment and fiberglass bodyfiller or metal bodyfiller if you want it cheap n not right still need to paint the hole quarter Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proshaft Posted December 21, 2016 Report Share Posted December 21, 2016 Sorry to hijack your thread, from reading various posts on here, it seems that the long solution to the E46 rust issue is to buy a new wing from BMW. Please can someone let me know if a new wing from BMW is already painted or untreated and requires painting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theworkerbee Posted December 21, 2016 Report Share Posted December 21, 2016 comes primed I think so will require painting proshaft 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proshaft Posted December 21, 2016 Report Share Posted December 21, 2016 Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rasa Posted December 21, 2016 Report Share Posted December 21, 2016 2 hours ago, proshaft said: Sorry to hijack your thread, from reading various posts on here, it seems that the long solution to the E46 rust issue is to buy a new wing from BMW. Please can someone let me know if a new wing from BMW is already painted or untreated and requires painting? thats if its at the front,if its the rear,then cant buy rear quarter panel,well maybe you can but it would be a fortune to get aout and weld in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadodo Posted December 22, 2016 Report Share Posted December 22, 2016 There are repair panel available from pattern part manufactures. They often require some "work" to get them to fit but it can be done. OE complete panels are available at some cost but unless money was no object they would be cut up for the appropriate bit of it rather than replacing the whole thing. When my M3 rear arches were done by BMW under warranty they just cut out the rotten bits and welded in new patches. Really good panel beaters will make their own repair patches. What ever way it is done it is time consuming and ALL the rust must be cut out or it WILL come back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...