Sunglasses_Ron Posted October 18, 2016 Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 (edited) Guys, I very recently had new Brembo discs and pads all fitted round and all was fine first off. I now have a major issue where it feels like the discs are BADLY warped. They simply can't be warped because the car has genuinely only been driven very mildly (one long dual carriageway into work and home again). I'm getting quite severe shaking on the steering wheel and pulsing on the brake pedal when braking from fast to moderate speeds. someone has suggested the caliper sliders? Although I'd be surprised if they hadn't been addressed when the discs were replaced as the guy who changed them is a trusted specialist. I hope this doesn't sound like a really stupid question but my brake pressure sensor had been throwing up errors intermittently and I wondered if this could cause any issues with the ABS? sorry if this all sounds a bit retarded I'm a bit of a numpty when it comes to even the simplest of mechanical issues. I will be taking it back to the specialist in the next couple of weeks but I wondered if anyone had had any similar issues? If it does turn out to be warped discs I'm going to be very very pissed off because it will surely mean that the discs are faulty? Thanks for taking time to read this. Ron Edit. Wishbone bushes were all done when the discs were replaced Edited October 18, 2016 by Sunglasses_Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avalaugh Posted October 18, 2016 Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 It's just the pad material being laid down, go find an empty duel carriage way and do a number of hard stops from 70-30, get then nice and hot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunglasses_Ron Posted October 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 Just now, avalaugh said: It's just the pad material being laid down, go find an empty duel carriage way and do a number of hard stops from 70-30, get then nice and hot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Tried that already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rasa Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 11 hours ago, Sunglasses_Ron said: Tried that already. its because they are cheap tripe,andy at A and K motorsport had given me advice to not buy them,anyway i did,anyway two weeks later they were off and replaced with pagid and all ok again,its brembo,mintex,ferodo,all good brands,but all made in cheap chinese factory,even the good companies are buying these and distributing,i bought mine from MR auto,had a hell of a time getting my money back,but lesson learned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R11CH Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 Wouldn't class all Ferodo as cheap tripe personally, been using their DS3000 pads on my track car for many years along with Ebc discs, never had a problem. I have brembo max front discs and Ebc rear discs and Ebc Yellow stuff pads on the Beemer and been perfect for the last year however the new era of Pagid i would put on the list of tripe, next to useless if you like to give the car a bit of abuse down the B roads, leave really bad uneven pad deposit and not to mention the lack of actual braking force when it has a hint of heat in them. Just my experience but i would well recomend EBC discs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chocka Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 Fitted Ferodo discs and pads all round on mine 6 years ago and not had a problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dontpannic Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 (edited) Control arm bushes? To be fair, I had Pagid discs on mine and they warped. Replaced for a second set of Pagid under warranty - and they warped. Now replaced with Brembo... and they've warped. All independent garages near me do not trust Pagid discs and pads any more, not since their exclusivity deal with ECP. It's not too bad now though so I'm muddling through with it. Edited October 19, 2016 by dontpannic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjn Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 Try sourcing an OEM set of brake discs and check your front control arm bushes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz 330 Cs Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 3 hours ago, dontpannic said: Control arm bushes? He already said he's had those replaced.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjn Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 2 hours ago, Daz 330 Cs said: He already said he's had those replaced.... That'll teach me for not reading the replies! Daz 330 Cs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dontpannic Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 18 hours ago, Daz 330 Cs said: He already said he's had those replaced.... Am I being blind? Where? The edit saying wishbone bushes wasn't there when I replied, I'm sure, but wishbone bushes are separate from the control arm bushes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz 330 Cs Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 Wishbone, track control arm, it's the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadodo Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 Dirt between the hub and the disc can cause vibration under braking, as can a stuck/sticking caliper and tight pins and/or pin bushes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim27 Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 Impossible to diagnose over the web as there are multiple possibilities. One truth though is that you should never expect a garage/mechanic to remove/clean your slide pins when they're doing a brake pad/disc replacement. You can be chasing your tail on these sorts of jobs, continually removing and refitting parts, so my advice is do it all just the once. Remove the wheels, pads, calipers and discs. Take sandpaper to the mating surface on the rear of the wheel to ensure it's clean. Check/clean the hub face and both faces of the discs. Remove the slide pins and clean them with a rotary steel wire brush, then lube them with LM (lithium) grease and refit. Check their rubber boots are intact (replace if not). Buy/borrow a DTI (dial out) gauge. They're only something like £20 and a worthwhile investment. Checking your brake disc for warping is dead simple but if you're unfamiliar with DTI guages then check out YouTube - there's plenty of instructional videos. Any runout in excess of 0.15mm is to much IMHO. It could be due to uneven friction material layup on the disc face though, so even if you have runout >0.15mm you can try the next bit. Reassemble the brake components and refit the wheels (add a thin smear of copper grease on the mating surface on the back of the wheel). Then go carry out the brake bedding-in procedure outlined here: https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=6446_6443 New brake discs require careful and gentle bedding in, so as to ensure an even layup of friction material on the disc face. Get it wrong and you'll get pulsing, juddering under braking, hot spots and eventually maybe even a warped disc. Also failing to get slow even heat into the new discs and then doing some high speed high heat stops can equally ruin your discs (thermal shock). Hopefully the above will fix your problems. I've been there and can tell you that trying one thing, reassembling and then finding it didn't fix it (so you have to dismantle things again and start over) gets very tiring VERY quickly, hence my advice to do everything in one go. Might be overkill but the certainty of fixing the problem on the first attempt is much, much higher doing it that way. mjn 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
