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Wolf Larson

330D trouble starting, even when warm - not sure what else to check!

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Could just be drained. No need to boot inpa though - the dash can report voltage. 

They gave you a Mac? You have my commiserations. At least there's boot camp. Did it come with the array of dongles needed to restore basic functionality, or are they up to you to buy?

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Forgot about the hidden Menu ...

If I've done it right, I'm getting voltage - but not 14.0v

So dodgy battery - or somewhere in the past two years my dodgy wiring has come back to haunt me (or your soldering Joe :) )

IMG_0039_zps09ypxpfz.jpg

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The only victim of my soldering was my iron!

Is that 11.1v not cranking? I'd say that's the cause of the problem. Try a jump start, take it for a run, see how it goes. It might have just gone flat, have failed (should be under warranty) or there's a drain somewhere and you'll have to start pulling fuses to isolate it.

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Thats what it settled on after giving up cranking it. Will try jump start during the week - need to drive to Birmingham this weekend - I guess once I've started the car I'll be ok lol

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Cool. 11.1 while cranking might be ok. While not doing anything, it's low. 

At least you can't stall yours. I remember stalling mine in traffic when I suffered my hot start problem. That was stressful! So was filling up. I had to make sure to do it with a cold engine!

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My bad - looks like I never bought a battery for this car - but for previous beemer (!) Guess it's time for a new one.

 

Sorry to hijack your thread @Wolf Larson

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Problem solved then hopefully! I've got an exide one in mine from. Cp4l. They're usually on quidco or topcashback too. 

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1 minute ago, TriggerFish said:

Problem solved then hopefully! I've got an exide one in mine from. Cp4l. They're usually on quidco or topcashback too. 

Just bought this: http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/BMW_3+Series_3.0_2002/p/car-parts/car-electrics-and-car-lighting/electrical/car-battery/?444771107&1&ccccec60cdaa7a541d7036d720c5de023b350b16&000020

£35 cheaper than ECP

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8 hours ago, The_Judge_ said:

i have quoted loads of times about the sister company being cheaper,if you google codes you can also get a code,thats if they have not got an online sale anyhow,some thins work out a fraction dearer or the same price but not much,and they also do not sell all the things ecp do,beggars belief sometimes the difference in price..

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19 hours ago, The_Judge_ said:

My bad - looks like I never bought a battery for this car - but for previous beemer (!) Guess it's time for a new one.

 

Sorry to hijack your thread @Wolf Larson

no worries at all - really useful as didn't know about the hidden OBC - don't suppose you could share how I access that? So bloody useful this forum

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2 hours ago, Wolf Larson said:

no worries at all - really useful as didn't know about the hidden OBC - don't suppose you could share how I access that? So bloody useful this forum

Bit of a faff to do it, but does work:

 

 

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...noticed in the last few days that my tickover is affected by switching the headlights on. I usually leave them on the 'auto' mode but recently with short school run journeys and cold mornings I've been leaving as much as possible switched off in the car until the engine has started and it's warmed up. Sat in traffic (by this time the engine's been running for 20mins or so), switch the lights on to 'auto' and the tickover starts dropping/rising slightly, switch them off and it's stable again.

The battery is 1yr old Yuasa and the system shows 14V when running. It's on its original alternator as far as I can tell...

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Apologies all for resurrecting an old thread, but have FINALLY cured my bad starting issue, which I thought I'd report back on. Turns out it was....[drum roll]....my starter motor! Kind of obvious really in hindsight, but it wasn't throwing any codes, or refusing to turn/start and the connections/voltage were all good - so no obvious signs it was at fault - just lazy cranking. The low cranking was also causing the cranks sensor to throw a fault at starting, which threw me off the scent.

Popping on a recon Bosch unit now has my car starting like a new petrol unit. Is a bit of a faff to access and I'll post a 'how to' in the correct section if this would help other members, as I've seen various options on how access it (from above or underneath). Short answer is both: if you strip the inlet manifold off and the steel undercarriage under the sump (which takes an hour combined) you can get to both the top bolt from above and the lower one from (you guessed it) below. Trying to access from above = hours of knuckle bashing to make tiny turns. There's also no need to drop the gearbox a few inches as some forums suggest.

Tickover also seems to be better too - not sure why - have done a balance test (via DISV57 software) and a manual back-leak test and the injectors/fuel pressure seem fine and well within tolerance, although a couple of the injectors strays a bit more from their ideal range than others, which may be causing the slightly unstable tickover at idle.

 

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