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Wolf Larson

330D electronic swirl flap actuator 330D - fault code cured

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Hi all, 

So after seeing a fault code pop up on my 330D (204bhp) regarding the swirl flap actuator I've followed advice to unplug it (as it's still plugged in despite me de-flapping the car some time ago). I've unplugged the connector that plugs onto to the mechanic unit fitted to the underside of the inlet manifold towards the bulkhead, that originally had the flap rod attached - is this actuator or is this elsewhere at the 'other end' of the cable that plugs into the box?

Now I've unplugged it I'm getting 2 new fault codes in DISV57: 

410C swirlf flap actuator
4152 swirl flap actuation

...so I'm guessing I've unplugged the wrong end! Can anyone help?

 

Thanks,
Andrew

Edited by Wolf Larson
update

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So, reading around the web it seems I have an electronically (rather than vacuum) operated actuator - which is more tricky to bypass in the system as unplugging it also throws a code, as does when it goes faulty. Seems my options are to either get it mapped out, or fit an emulator...but can only find one on eBay...in Lithuania: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-e46-x3-330d-swirl-flap-motor-actuator-bypass-emulator-/262769830622?hash=item3d2e4d6ade:g:eGgAAOSw9N1Vs74D

Has anyone else come across this with the later model E46 330D?

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2 hours ago, Wolf Larson said:

So, reading around the web it seems I have an electronically (rather than vacuum) operated actuator - which is more tricky to bypass in the system as unplugging it also throws a code, as does when it goes faulty. Seems my options are to either get it mapped out, or fit an emulator...but can only find one on eBay...in Lithuania: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-e46-x3-330d-swirl-flap-motor-actuator-bypass-emulator-/262769830622?hash=item3d2e4d6ade:g:eGgAAOSw9N1Vs74D

Has anyone else come across this with the later model E46 330D?

I have heard it needs to be mapped out, i need to check this on my 184bhp car as I'm getting the swirl flaps done this week. Someone will be along shortly to give a definitive answer no doubt!

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Thx, have emailed the chap who remapped my car a few months back (EGR delete and increase to 250bhp), so hopefully he can map it out. Fantastic that I've finally got some decent OBDII software working but it's also thrown up all the fault codes I was unaware of! Good luck with the flaps, mine were fine when I removed them, but worth doing for peace of mind.

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I tried to have the swirlflap acuator mapped out, but the mapper couldn't do it.

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If I remember correctly I think i left the actuator and plug plugged in on my car, but removed the flaps and the rod. No error codes have come up.

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20 hours ago, dontpannic said:

If I remember correctly I think i left the actuator and plug plugged in on my car, but removed the flaps and the rod. No error codes have come up.

That's what I did when I removed the flaps, but it now seems the actuator is playing up, so my options are to either:

...working backwards, I'm going with option 3 first. Will update when it arrives and my post a how to guide with a few pics

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On 1/8/2017 at 21:27, Rich (BoxClever) said:

I have heard it needs to be mapped out, i need to check this on my 184bhp car as I'm getting the swirl flaps done this week. Someone will be along shortly to give a definitive answer no doubt!

No mapping needed for 184Hp engines Rich :)

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Hi all,

Just to post an update, so my car is a late model with the 204bhp engine (M57N TU I think). Removed the swirl flaps a while back and fitted PMW blanking plugs, but mine has an electronic actuator. If you simply unplug the actuator like on the 184bhp engine this throws up 2 fault codes, and if the actuator packs up this throws up another fault code, both of which result in a loss of power. Was quite expensive to get this mapped out with the quotes I had (the car's already been re-mapped for EGR delete and more power) so I opted for a cheaper/quicker fix and fitted this from eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262769830622?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Arrived today, took no time to fit as you simply plug it in to the end of cable in place of the actuator and now the codes have gone and the car is pulling loads better. Here's hoping it lasts, as it feels like a lightweight 3D printed block with a few wires inside...but hey, it works!!

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Good fix.

That's what i'll be doing if my actuator fails again. But with the inlet manifold being 9 months old, hopefully will outlast my ownership of the car!

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9 hours ago, Wolf Larson said:

Hi all,

Just to post an update, so my car is a late model with the 204bhp engine (M57N TU I think). Removed the swirl flaps a while back and fitted PMW blanking plugs, but mine has an electronic actuator. If you simply unplug the actuator like on the 184bhp engine this throws up 2 fault codes, and if the actuator packs up this throws up another fault code, both of which result in a loss of power. Was quite expensive to get this mapped out with the quotes I had (the car's already been re-mapped for EGR delete and more power) so I opted for a cheaper/quicker fix and fitted this from eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262769830622?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Arrived today, took no time to fit as you simply plug it in to the end of cable in place of the actuator and now the codes have gone and the car is pulling loads better. Here's hoping it lasts, as it feels like a lightweight 3D printed block with a few wires inside...but hey, it works!!

Hi Wolf, what symptoms were you getting? I haven't noticed anything obvious except for a little bit of low down torque. I have the error codes as well.

Edited by dooge

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Nothing major, slight loss of power, turbo seemed to only be working across a more limited range, and taking longer to kick in. The car now feels more responsive, am also having a few issues with starting - but don't think these are connected to the actuator - but wanted to rule this out

 

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Seeing as it doesn't throw up a dash warning light why not just leave it unplugged?

Why go to all the trouble of having it mapped out when there are no other side effects?

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3 hours ago, chocka said:


Seeing as it doesn't throw up a dash warning light why not just leave it unplugged?

Why go to all the trouble of having it mapped out when there are no other side effects?

For me...because I'm having a few problems with my car starting/at tickover and wanted to rule this out as the cause. Have also read online from other users that this can cause issues with forcing the car to run in limp mode, so thought it would be helpful to post how I cured it for others if this is causing them problems.

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Am I missing something? As far as I know a fault with the electronic actuator can cause boost issues and in worst case limp mode. Unplugging it fixes the problem, but leaves a code in the ecu (but no eml light).

Are you saying that even with it unplugged you were actually having issues with boost? Or are you saying you spent £50 on this 'just in case' because of your other symptoms, or because the code on the ecu was just annoying you? Your post gives the impression this was required to fix the actual symptoms, which for most of us has proven not to be the case.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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As mentioned a few posts back, I was getting a loss of power alongside the fault codes, as though there was less boost or it wasn't coming in as early. Fitting this thing has made the car feel more responsive and the power comes in way earlier. Cost £44. I'm not persuading others to buy one, just posting my findings on my car. My starting issue however still persists...argh!!

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As mentioned a few posts back, I was getting a loss of power alongside the fault codes, as though there was less boost or it wasn't coming in as early.

With the actuator unplugged? Or just when it was plugged in?

Your post suggested only when plugged in - just trying to clear that up for other members that come along later with the same problem.

The way your post read was that you had the problem with it plugged in, then you unplugged it and the power problems went away but the codes remained (as expected, and as found by a number of us). You then bought this widget and plugged it in because you didn't like the codes showing, and 'just in case' it was causing your other issue - not to fix any remaining power problems - am I wrong?

Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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Your car starting problems have nothing to do with the Swirl flap actuator... if it is unplugged.

Save your money to spend on your main problems first.

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dont know if its been mentioned,but the glow plug relay/module can cause difficult starting,i kinow cars dont need glow plugs in this climate although they help,but i have read somewhere of this problem being rectified..try and get a good one to swap around,dont know if anyn of the modules are the same on the car so you could try one of them,and swap it out ,other than that a leaky injector run off pipes or bad injector etc etc..

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21 hours ago, JasonK said:

 

With the actuator unplugged? Or just when it was plugged in?

Your post suggested only when plugged in - just trying to clear that up for other members that come along later with the same problem.

The way your post read was that you had the problem with it plugged in, then you unplugged it and the power problems went away but the codes remained (as expected, and as found by a number of us). You then bought this widget and plugged it in because you didn't like the codes showing, and 'just in case' it was causing your other issue - not to fix any remaining power problems - am I wrong?

Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Apols for not being clearer in the first place chaps: yes - power was down with (faulty) Actuator plugged in - the car felt sluggish, as though the turbo was coming in late and over a limited range. Unplugging it threw 2 new fault codes and intermittent power loss, which made the power loss more noticeable when it dropped. Plugging in this thing has restored the power consistently when the car is running, although has had no effect on my sluggish starting issues...

So yes - just unplugging it may work for some owners and you may not need to buy one of these. Sorry for not being clearer.

 

 

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