danwesson

325ci rust and wheel problem

7 posts in this topic

Hi guys my 2002 E46 325ci sport coupe has a small amount of rust on both front arches, the passenger side being the worst, and a small golf ball size patch in the middle of the boot lid. So this is one thing I'm wondering if anybody else has dealt with this before and how they went about it as aesthetically it's the only thing letting it down.

Secondly is I have a wheel/tyre problem that I've mentioned before, my front drivers side tyre keeps going down (but never all the way flat) usually rests at 15psi which is strange, had the local tyre place check for punctures and showed me the bubbles all around the actual seal of the tyre. So he re-sealed it and it did nothing. Thought about it being the wrong tyre size but I don't think it is, it's exactly the same as the other front tyre (GOODRIDE SA-07 M+S 225/40ZR18 92W) which is keeping pressure perfectly. All tyres are not far off new with loads of tread so the only other thing I can think of is maybe damage to the rim? Even though the face of the rim is near perfect. So the only way I can find to fix this is to either have a wheel refurb, or the more expensive option is to buy new wheels. Just wondering what you guys would do if you where in this situation?

Cheers for any info

@.jpg

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DaveNE   

I had the same rust spot on my coupe.  I few pictures in my thread Click me.

No sign of it coming back so far I treated the metal with Bild Hamber Detox -c then Bild Hamber hydrate 80.  

I found Halfords Titan silver is a very good match best I've came across.

 

 

 

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Cheers for the info mate. Interesting as I've got the exact same car, paid the exact same price as you did and am now going through what you went through with getting it all up to shape, looks like you've spent a decent amount with a new rad, thermostat, expansion tank, rocker cover gasket, CCV kit etc.. this is what I aim to do with mine even if it costs way more than the car's value, it's the peace of mind that counts..

Not 100% confident with metalwork and taking panels off so will look at having a body shop do this. It's a shame as apart from the shabby headlights, it's the only thing that makes it look 15 years old.

 

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DaveNE   

Well I am a firm believer of purchasing a car then running it for 12 months there about's then if it costs half the price of the initial value of the car in less then 12 months it's worth spending a little bit of cash to keep it running if you enjoy the car. 

Just had to spend 500 pounds on the Mrs R50 Cooper. purchased 2 years ago failed its mot on many things nothing to bad to fix on the drive so I took the plunge and shelled out on a major suspension overhaul to get it through its MOT.  As a result The MINI is a little belter again hopefully last her till next year.

 

Got my thread to update as I happens but the Mrs has been keeping me busy decorating the house  not had a chance to update the thread.

I would also advise taking your arch liners out front and rear you will be surprised how much crap its in there. my wings were shot due to accumulation of crap.

All arch liners have been removed and cleaned & treated with some Dintrol 498.  same process was applied to the side skirts Underside of rear bumper.

Good Luck and give me a shout if you need any advice. 23 years in the trade :thumbsup:

 

Edited by DaveNE

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J18nyr   

You mention taking the arch liners out and treating, my sound silly but do you put them back? Or leave out to make cleaning easier next time? 

Edited by Daz 330 Cs

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rasa   
1 hour ago, J18nyr said:

You mention taking the arch liners out and treating, my sound silly but do you put them back? Or leave out to make cleaning easier next time? 

not putting them back would make a mess of the engine bay

,,will get covered in s**te/salt/mud/horse s**t etc etc 

Edited by rasa

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mnb1985   
On 7/5/2017 at 16:47, danwesson said:

Hi guys my 2002 E46 325ci sport coupe has a small amount of rust on both front arches, the passenger side being the worst, and a small golf ball size patch in the middle of the boot lid. So this is one thing I'm wondering if anybody else has dealt with this before and how they went about it as aesthetically it's the only thing letting it down.

Secondly is I have a wheel/tyre problem that I've mentioned before, my front drivers side tyre keeps going down (but never all the way flat) usually rests at 15psi which is strange, had the local tyre place check for punctures and showed me the bubbles all around the actual seal of the tyre. So he re-sealed it and it did nothing. Thought about it being the wrong tyre size but I don't think it is, it's exactly the same as the other front tyre (GOODRIDE SA-07 M+S 225/40ZR18 92W) which is keeping pressure perfectly. All tyres are not far off new with loads of tread so the only other thing I can think of is maybe damage to the rim? Even though the face of the rim is near perfect. So the only way I can find to fix this is to either have a wheel refurb, or the more expensive option is to buy new wheels. Just wondering what you guys would do if you where in this situation?

Cheers for any info

@.jpg

If only that Tyre next time you take the car out of a run feel the alloy too see if it's hotter than the rest. too me sounds like (because of the pressure loss) like you might have a sticking break caliper - The heat generated will cause the tyre to loose prssure under the heat.... Quick and easy fix just had this on the back right of my mrs vert - Nothing wrong with the alloy or tyre was a sticky (binding) caliper 

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