gjm Posted December 4, 2020 Report Share Posted December 4, 2020 (edited) Had some problems with starting which are likely fuel pump or fuel filter. Banging under the tank normally fixes this - I'm replacing the filter and keeping my fingers crossed but prepared to replace the pump too. Not difficult. The screenshot above shows a list of codes being reported... Unrelated? Any idea if there's a single cause? 2001 E46 318i M43 automatic, just under 200000km, EGR deleted. Edited December 4, 2020 by gjm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momo Posted December 6, 2020 Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 That will be the secondary air pump.. All I know is that's a common fault on the 318i as the engine struggles to create enough vacuum itself so uses a secondary air pump. They go wrong quite often on the 318. So yes, probably unrelated but hopefully someone who has more knowledge of petrol cars can confirm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
incredirog Posted December 6, 2020 Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 easy to get to, it’s right on top, can see it with the engine cover still in place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjm Posted December 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2020 The unrelated part - not starting - seems to be fuel-pump related. As in - needs a new one. Checked everything and there doesn't seem to be fuel getting as far as the fuel filter. I'll bridge 87 & 30 on the pump to see if bypassing the relay helps, but I've swapped the relay with no change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schumacher Posted December 13, 2020 Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 Check the fuel pressure via the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Also test the voltage at the fuel pump when you turn the ignition on. gjm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjm Posted December 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 One of the things that annoys me is the lack of correct tools I own. Like... A fuel pressure gauge! I settled for removing the cap and using a tiny screwdriver to depress the valve - no fuel. There was voltage at the plug on the top of the fuel pump. A replacement fuel pump was ordered but these are now supplied (unless you go BMW genuine) as a unit to fit into the fuel pump 'chassis'. The chassis is a plastic frame, and a hose links the pump itself to the frame, and the hose you can see when removing the rear seat and cover is also connected to the frame. The hose inside the tank, connecting the pump to the frame, becomes wear hardened and is seriously hard work to remove. It does not 'remove' as any instructions might suggest, and an anticipated 30 minute job to replace the pump became a 3.5 hour marathon. Rebuild, try again... No start. Check codes - nothing to indicate an issue (other than the ones shown above). That's enough - leave it and go do some gardening instead. Review, check, recheck, check polarity of the filter (it is in the correct orientation)... Remove the fuel pump again and check, and... One of the leads connecting power to the new pump had either not been fitted correctly (by me - this is the most likely cause), or had become detached. Reconnect, refit, and YES! - we have life once again. Seems likely the pump had been failing for a while as an occasional stutter and uneven running has now also gone away. momo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
incredirog Posted December 13, 2020 Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 nice write up of the problem solving! glad you sorted it 👊🏻 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schumacher Posted December 13, 2020 Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 1 hour ago, gjm said: One of the things that annoys me is the lack of correct tools I own. Like... A fuel pressure gauge! I settled for removing the cap and using a tiny screwdriver to depress the valve - no fuel. There was voltage at the plug on the top of the fuel pump. A replacement fuel pump was ordered but these are now supplied (unless you go BMW genuine) as a unit to fit into the fuel pump 'chassis'. The chassis is a plastic frame, and a hose links the pump itself to the frame, and the hose you can see when removing the rear seat and cover is also connected to the frame. The hose inside the tank, connecting the pump to the frame, becomes wear hardened and is seriously hard work to remove. It does not 'remove' as any instructions might suggest, and an anticipated 30 minute job to replace the pump became a 3.5 hour marathon. Rebuild, try again... No start. Check codes - nothing to indicate an issue (other than the ones shown above). That's enough - leave it and go do some gardening instead. Review, check, recheck, check polarity of the filter (it is in the correct orientation)... Remove the fuel pump again and check, and... One of the leads connecting power to the new pump had either not been fitted correctly (by me - this is the most likely cause), or had become detached. Reconnect, refit, and YES! - we have life once again. Seems likely the pump had been failing for a while as an occasional stutter and uneven running has now also gone away. Should have ran a search, you would have seen my recent thread HERE. Glad you got it fixed though. Here's to the next 200k gjm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjm Posted December 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 21 hours ago, Schumacher said: Should have ran a search, you would have seen my recent thread HERE. Glad you got it fixed though. Here's to the next 200k Looks like I went through a similar process of deduction. Tried everything before replacing the pump! Today, we do an oil and filter change, wile assessing just how bad the leak from the water pump actually is... Schumacher 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
