I'm new here but my question is simple (as am I)

Description:    120d E87 SH AUT RL M47/T2 EUR
Engines:    M47D2002;
Type:    UG62
Production Date:    16.06.2006

Have paid local garage £60 to diagnose issues and narrowed it down to ABS Module (internal fault)
They were very helpful

Bought used part on ebay for £20odd , fitted and bled brakes - all fine.

I understand the used module will have VINno from donor car and will need coding to my VIN

Purchased cable from ebay & installed Mikes BMW Tools
Set up correctly (com port 1 etc...)

SW sees cable but I now understand my cable doesn't do Diesels!!

Can anyone recommend a USB cable which is known to work on DIESEL E87?

I dont need help setting up software (i am a programmer and I know that side is fine

Many thanks

Any help or info would be greatly appreciated.

I have a 2004 320d with non projector halogen headlights I want to find out what sizes are the rings what’s the best ones to buy and easiest to fit? 

ive just joined e46 zone as I have bought a bmw 330ci sport convertible. I live around Surrey area and need a reliable mechanic that can carry out works on my new project,can anyone recommend someone.

thanks 

Also radio display is on but won't work. Came on for a while but sounds tinny and crackles. Turned radio off the crackle still coming through speakers. Any advice please

Has anyone had this issue before? My Drivers Window has stopped the auto drop & lift when opening and closing the door, It also does not register that the door is open on the information panel on the dash, which means the alarm doesn't arm but the door does lock from the remote. The window mech works fine and I've tried the reset up and down various times but it still does the same.............

Thanks

Took it apart and found the issue with the sensor (pic below) so have ordered a second hand one from ebay, bmw quoted me £205 plus vat!!! Question is do i need to code the one i have coming from ebay? Maybe solder the old one back together?

EDIT - Can a mod remove this post please. I posted wrong! Cheers

Also radio display is on but won't work. Came on for a while but sounds tinny and crackles. Turned radio off the crackle still coming through speakers. Any advice please

YH BMW FEM auto key programmer can read these 18 versions as below:

004.102.030

004.102.040

004.103.030

004.104.040

007.102.010

008.101.030

008.101.050

008.101.070

011.102.020

012.104.010

012.200.030

014.102.040

015.100.020

015.102.020

015.152.030

015.154.010

016.106.030

016.112.010

More to be tested...

Im wondering how much bigger an m3 wishbone is to a 330 one ? 

I am into the final steps of a build and just put my coilovers on but one of the fronts seems to be sticking out quite a bit?

I recently been having an issue with my 2003 e46 320d the abs trifecta lights are on 

I scanned the car and it said that the rear drivers side sensor was not reading at all so I replaced it (did not fix the issue)

I had another 320d for track use with all the sensors and abs module workin ok at first I tought I had gotten a faulty new sensor as it was quite cheap so I tried one from my track car still no joy 

Tired swapping the abs module and no joy 

Scanned the car multiple times with different equipment ranging from cheap bluetooth obd plugins right up to a snap on kit in a garrage and no faults showing I.  Running out of ideas and really just need the lights off for mot I was considering wiring the 3 lights to the check engine light so it would go of once that does after staring the carea but I really don't know which wire it is and can't find a diagram anywhere for it any help at this stage would be very much appreciated weather is a prover fix or a bodge 

Newbie here, as the heading suggests I have an intermittent cruise control problem. Can start the car from cold and it will work on some days and others it will not. Can stop the car and turn off engine leave for 30 seconds  and start her up again and it will work fine. Once it is working it will carry on working for the whole journey. But will not start work during a journey  unless I switch it off and leave it for a few seconds Start it again. 

Not sure if there are any relays in the circuit that might be sticking/faulty. Any help would be

appreciated. Thanks 

Peter

My e46 had been using a lot of oil. About 6 months ago, I changed the rocker cover gasket & did the vanos seals at the same time. Seems better now.

I didn't fancy tackling the ccv, so put into an indy for this and associated pipework. Any way, now 6 months later, when topping up oil I am noticing yellow build up around filler cap and it is gradually getting worse. I have never lost coolant in 2 years so know it's not that.

I mainly do short journeys. 3 miles to work and back every day, 6 to golf club at weekend. So expect this might be the issue, but there's a heck of a lot of yellow slime. 

Question is, I thought the new ccv would have solved this? Should I get the garage to check repair before warranty is up? I just wanted to check that my feelings that something isn't right are correct before I speak to them.

Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Wheels have been balanced but vibration comes in at about 60mph. Feels like a wheel out of balance but it isn't that given I've had them all balanced. Fitter said wheels looked in good condition. What else could it be?

It will be going back to the dealer but I'd really appreciate your views please, thanks

The two beams are level with each other whereas I thought the n/s should throw light further out.

When I was changing the bulbs you could lift the bulb holders up, its as if they should be connected to an adjuster or something but isn't,. kind of hard to explain,. I've tried the adjuster on the steering column  with little effect.

Anyone know how to adjust the beam from the engine bay?  Thanks Jim

I've signed up here as I'm after some technical help with an idea I have for using the seats from an E46 (or later E93?) convertible in my 1989 Chevrolet Camaro.  There are a few reasons for me wanting to put much more modern seats into an older car, so hopefully you guys can help me out.

The main reason I'm interested aside from comfort is because the seatbelts are entirely contained within the front seats (in the 80's Camaro they mount to the roof of the car which drags the belt across the door opening when you put the seat forward) 

I need to know how they work, will they still lock if the seats are not plugged into the stock BMW wiring harness for the seats?  my car came with a 6-way power adjustable drivers seat as stock in 1989 so with some modifications I will be able to power the adjustment systems on both BMW seats but obviously none of the rest of the systems, like airbags and crash-safety systems like the seatbelt pre-tensioners would be operational because there would be no sensors in the car for these.  Am I also right in thinking that the convertible seats put the headrests up in the event of an accident as well?

I would also like to know how high the seat bases are above the mounting tracks, the Camaro seats are very low to the floor.

Any and all help & advise is very much appreciated, also depending on how this discussion turns out if anyone has any Grey convertible front seats for sale from either an E46 or E93 please let me know. (I'd be getting them re-covered so I'm only worried about the condition of foams, electrics and primarily looking for ones with Grey Plastics & Seatbelts as opposed to Black)

I asked on Facebook and a couple guys suggested just getting another speedo or a ribbon cable. Which doesn't sound right. As my research tells me it's a 1.5w 12v bulb. 

(Generic picture to show odometer problem)

Thanks

In addition to the slipping the car makes a grinding / whining noise when in neutral and also the same noise when driving along.

I'm think the noise is either the release bearing on the clutch or the input shaft on the gearbox, the only time the car is silent is when the clutch is engaged.

Can anyone tell me which it is or will it be a case of taking off the gearbox and inspecting?

Reason I'm asking is I can stomach putting a new clutch in it but I think in light of everything else that's wrong with it we'd be best of getting rid if we have to fork out for a recon gearbox.

If it needs stripping just to find out then I'd rather just get her a new car and sell it for spares / repairs wheras if its a case of spending a day and £100 to keep it going for a bit longer I could live with that.

Cheers