Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About bobdisk

  • Rank
  • Birthday May 3

Profile Information

  • Current Car
    2000 BMW 323Ci
  • Gender
  • Location
    Near Heathrow

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ
  1. Do you have a diamond shaped key? All modern keys (E46 included) have 2 systems in them. One to start and one remote lock/unlock. There is a transponder chip that communicates with the security system when you put the key in and allows the car to start, this does not use the key's battery. The battery is used for the remote lock, if it is allowed to go flat, or is removed for more than 30secs (I think?) it will loose its settings, but it is possible to reprogram. Cant remember how at the moment, but will see if I can find, perhaps another member will come up with it. If you have a diamond shaped key, you must have broken it open to replace the battery. Make sure you put in the same type batt, it recharges from the car when its in the ignition.
  2. The standard lights for mine are exactly as @Schumachers diagram from Real OEM shows. Mine though are Depo projectors. Their beam pattern was not too good, but better than BMW's standard halogens. I have changed Depo's 5W bulbs for LEDs to light the rings. It took some doing to make them look almost BMW ! I have modified the dip beam projectors to give a flat top beam, with a 15 degree kink on the left (for UK), and they will work with both xenon and halogen. So you can see why I want to keep them, unless I can get some genuine BMW Xenons at a reasonable price. They all seem too expensive.
  3. Now that one is a bit more like it !! https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32852026840.html The main reason I am looking for a driver only is the inconvenience of fitting rings into the light.
  4. www.aliexpress.com/item/4001162381497.html Look at the ballasts in the photo that shows all. It says on the label "Inverter for CCFL" and also "input 12V DC 50Hz" (!!!You cant have a frequency for DC, it is Direct Current that goes up to a set level, and stays there!!! Cars are DC. It must be AC, Alternating Current to have a frequency) and also "Output 900V 25KHz" You put that on LEDs and you will get a big bang!! LEDs are DC only, and most are low voltage. My LED driver is in fact a voltage regulator and a constant current load for the car. The car puts in about 14V with the engine running and it outputs 10V to each LED ring. It also has a constant current circuit in it that tells the dud bulb warning indicator not to come on if both rings are on. If one or both rings go out, the current goes down, and this triggers the dud bulb warning, and the car also triggers the indicator light to come on at half brightness, so you still have a side light of a sort while the rings are out.
  5. Where did you all get the idea I wanted to replace the car???? I will not be replacing this car anytime soon, its the LED DRIVER I want. I might have to go back to standard lights if I cant find a new LED (note it is LED) driver. www.aliexpress.com/item/4001162381497.html These are CCFL, not LEDs so no good !
  6. Some time ago I fitted aftermarket LED Angel Eyes rings to my E46 323Ci. They have worked well for about 5 years, now one of the drivers has failed, and I need a replacement. I swapped over left and right drivers, and the fault went with it, all the leds on both sides are ok. There are plenty of ballasts for CCFL around but these are LEDs so that will not do. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement? I cant find the original receipt for them so cant remember where I got them.
  7. How did you find which were the dud sensors? To find out, turn ignition on but dont start the engine. Put it in reverse, then get down to each sensor and listen. Good sensors, you will hear them tick tick tick. Its feint so listen carefully. Bad sensors are silent. If all are not good, the system will not work properly. You could still have a dud one or more.
  8. Got my bits (Rad, Tank, Stat, Pump with metal impeller, pipes) from GSF over a couple of years when I saw it needed them. Last part replaced about 3 years ago, no problems since. This year, time to change the antifreeze! I did have one problem with a 2 year old thermostat, the stub to the top broke off when I tried to change the hose, cant remember where I got it.
  9. I Know this is an old thread, but my E46 323Ci computer has started to do the same thing. I tried squirting some electronic switch cleaner into the push button, but it did not work. Also, it keeps forgetting the windows "drop when you open the doors and rise when you close the door" memory, but it will reset. Tazz666, did you find an answer to yours?
  10. Quite certain, I thought it might be that, so I disconnected the FSR last time I went on holiday, same results. I found it was the engine fan by putting an ammeter in series with the battery, letting it go to sleep, and pulling all the fuses one by one. With the 50A fan fuse out, sleep current dropped to 40 mA. Next time I leave it, I will pull the fans plug and see what happens. I would like to get hold of a fan controller, and see whats inside.
  11. My battery always went flat after about 10 days if I didn't use it, holidays and the like. I use it almost every day, so no probs then. Turns out to be the engine cooling fan taking a little bit, not enough to turn it. Only found it out this week, and have had it for some years I am in the process of trying to sort the fan control without having to buy a whole new fan for a lota money.
  12. EvoStik worked for me, see post #82, and it still there now.
  13. I think the light washers are supposed to go every five times of the screen wash, if the sidelights are turned on. No lights, no light wash. I have put a switch in the light wash motor, so I can choose if I want them. I didnot know about the double pull, I have tried mine, dont think its got it. I have to be VERY quick to get a single squirt without moving the wipers. I cant feel a double switch click when I pull it.
  14. Does this happen when its cold, below the 3 deg that brings on the cold bleep when you turn on the ignition? Mines the opposite, when its cold, the boot goes BONK BONK (!) and does not open, I have to open it at the handle. I think its the GM5 module
  15. Have you tried re-setting the windows? Turn ignition on, dont start. Press and hold the window button to put it all the way down. lift the button to put the window all the way up, and hold the button up for another 30 secs after the window is up. This has to be done after the battery has been disconnected.
  • Create New...