Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Antoin

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Current Car
  1. I know this is quite a common topic and I have done loads of searching and reading on the subject and I still haven't found my answer. My main key fob has been temperamental recently and my other key was completely dead. New battery didn't help the dead one either. Faced with prospect of leaving me locked out of the car (my car didn't have a physical lock) I bought a secondhand door lock complete with key fob, valet key and plastic key. Now I have a working mechanical lock with secondhand key. I have one key now that sometimes locks, operates the boot but never unlocks. I tried the reprogramming procedure on all keys (secondhand fob as well, is it even possible to progranme it to my car?) and it does not work. Why would the procedure not work? Could my fault lie with the gm5 module and that the keys weren't the problem in the first place? Thanks for your patience. Anton
  2. A cap that can be prised off? Mine doesnt seem to have anything that accessible and i spent a bit of time trying to get it off?
  3. I am starting to fear that my keyfobs may give up the ghost. This would appear to leave me with no mechanical way into the car as i see nowhere to insert the key. Both drivers door and passenger door have blanking covers over where the lock should be. If i take these off will there be a key slot or is this just a feature of some models? My car is a msport 330d 2002 saloon if that helps. Thanks, Anton
  4. Think il remove both wiring harnesses and check them over for any breaks later on today. In the event that the wiring and connectors are fine, what is the other cause of the faults? The explosive charge? If it is the charge does that mean a new charge required or can it be bypassed/ resistor placed in place of it in order to turn the light off? I understand this means that the charge wont go off on the tensioner but is it strictly necessary?
  5. Thanks triggerfish, im over here in NI so airbag light must come on with the ignition and go off within a few seconds of starting the car. Not sure if thats the same as over with you in England? Is it likely to be the wiring moreso than the explosive charge? Car hasnt been in a crash as far as im aware, no airbags have been replaced either.
  6. Apologies in advance for this endless list of faults (all read with INPA)! Please bear with me, i have searched and just cant find an exact answer. So, first problem and the most pressing as without it fixed my car wont go through the MOT; 6 Ignition circuit ZK5 / Side airbag front right Resistance too small 2 Ignition circuit ZK1 / Belt tensioner driver Resistance too large Im hoping solving these two issues will turn the airbag light off but as much as i know the faults i dont know what to do to fix them? Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks, Antoin
  7. Well it turns out that the thermostat housing has a chunk missing out of it and all that was sealing it was some instant gasket. The anti freeze must have been too much for it and caused the leak. I bought and fitted a new thermostat from BMW and all is good.
  8. A bit of background; A previous owner had prised off the airbag LED on my instrument cluster and since this is now an MOT failure I needed to fix it. In order to resolder an LED onto the board I had to remove the needles to gain access. Is there a definitive way of calibrating the needles? I took a pic of their original position before removal but I obviously haven't got exactly where I need to be. Checking with INPA; The RPM is fine to within 25-50rpm Speedo is under-reading Temp gauge is more or less bang on MPG I have no real way to tell Fuel gauge I have no accurate way to tell. Il fill it to the neck with diesel and see where it sits. Is there a foolproof way of doing it? Thanks, Anton
  9. How is the ride compared to the m sport suspension? (Im assuming you've fitted this to the car in your profile)
  10. Is that little tab resting on the hub seat?
  11. Well i finally got around to taking a look at the wires in the flexi point at the bootlid hinge. 4 broken wires and many more on the verge of breaking. Cut, soldered & heatshrink wrapped any that looked suspect and now i have all rear lights working perfectly, the boot popper now works and the keyfob button now activates the bootlid as well. A successful days work
  12. I changed the white bush and it didn't make a blind bit of difference. The detents need to be done with the box out, that's what will fix the sloppy gearchange.
  13. Replaced the rechargeable battery in my spare keyfob so now I have a working spare key. In the process of trying to fix the bootlid door solenoid ive broken the bootlid taillights. I've a feeling I've a few broken wires in flexi at the boot hinge so that's another job to add to the list.
  • Create New...