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About dontpannic

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/06/1988

Profile Information

  • Current Car
    2004 E46 330D Sport Touring + Fiesta ST
  • Gender
  • Location
    Orpington, Kent

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3,092 profile views
  1. Thanks for that - I attacked it myself, and while I was there replaced my starter motor as it was coming out anyway. What a massive pain in the backside that job was. Haven't checked the codes yet but I think my starter was the thing causing the codes to come up. Having said that, it starts up instantly now, a huge improvement - thanks for the photo - it helped!
  2. That's what I'm thinking at the moment, I can't see it from the top, and from the bottom will require lifting the car and getting the under trays and support brace off. Might have a quick look at the weekend when I'm due to do the shocks and springs and book it in if I can't. Good to see someone putting in the effort to keep these on the road - there aren't many really decent 330d Sport's out there any more
  3. Well that's a lovely looking thing! I notice that you've replaced the crankshaft sensor - is that something you did yourself or was it a garage job? I've got the part but haven't plucked up the courage to try and find the damn thing yet. Getting slow cranking issues, and every so often mine will take a good 10 seconds of cranking before she fires into life. Crankshaft sensor is the only code I keep getting back on INPA nowadays!
  4. Wow, a thread of bots replying to bots 😂
  5. How often are/were you using the car over lockdown? It could well be a dead battery - some batteries can give the impression of a full voltage however as soon as a load is applied, the cells fail inside the battery and can't supply the appropriate power. It would seem odd that the mirrors on their own would drain the battery if they're not being used - or the GM5 was keeping the heating elements on all the time, but then that would point towards a GM5 issue rather than the mirrors themselves. Given that the mirrors obviously hasn't solved the battery issue I'd certainly raise that and try to get a refund/goodwill gesture on the cost of that as it was unnecessary to replace them. What Aux system do you have that could be draining the battery? Is the alternator giving the correct voltage when the engine is running? My battery was 3 years old when I replaced it, it's now been 3-4 years since I last changed it and I'm thinking of replacing it again as it's getting a little slow to crank.
  6. M57/M57N parts are the same IIRC - in fact it was the same part on my friends E39 530d. The supplier is probably looking at the original equipment for your car whereas the vortex breather is interchangeable. https://www.c3bmw.co.uk/crankcase-engine-breather-valve-m57-m57n-30d/p/779
  7. The little device will only scan the engine DTC codes - INPA is software for a laptop which will communicate with all of the ECU's in the car and give you far more details. ASC/DSC is what would be illuminating those particular dash lights.
  8. You need an INPA scan of the DSC/ASC system - EGR/boost pressure errors won't illuminate the DSC/ASC lights on the dash. You're probably going to find its a pressure sensor, wheel speed sensor, yaw sensor etc which is causing your issue.
  9. I've always kind of been in two minds - I mean the reason I bought this car in the first place is I wanted a nice lazy auto diesel to cruise about in, but since mapping it I've been in two minds about what to do if and when the auto box dies. That said, I'm on 141k right now, just had a fluid and filter change, and my mate has just bought an E39 530d on 252k miles on the original auto box with no issues - so it's hopefully got a bit of life left yet!
  10. Thats good to know. Hopefully my auto box doesn't die, but at least I have a source now if I don't fancy doing the swap myself lol. Thanks for updating us!
  11. How did it go? If and when my auto box dies a manual conversion is on the cards for me I think!
  12. I've done this a couple of times in the past, let me go through it with you (I'm fairly well versed in E46 lighting now). It's plug and play for the most part, though it will require some coding and potentially some additional wiring for advanced functionality. The wiring looms are the same, plugs are the same. You have two ways of coding these in - either plug them in and disable the bulb checks using NCSExpert, PA Soft or NavCoder - of the OEM way of doing it is to add $522 to your Vehicle Order using NCS Expert, then setting the factory settings on the light switch module, you'll then have to disable dynamic headlight aim to re-enable the use of the adjustment dial on your light switch. If you purchase single Xenon headlamps (2.5" lens), that's all you need. If you purchase Bi-Xenon lights (3.0" lens), and want these to function in the way the manufacturer specified you'll need to run two new wires from the back of the headlight switch to the Xenon ballast on each headlight, otherwise the Bi-Xenon shutter will not work for full beams. Unfortunately you can't just run +12V to this to get them working, you need to run the additional wiring. The additional wiring is: Pin 2 on the LCM plug to the left ballast, pin 36 on the LCM plug to the right ballast. These connect to the centre pin of the 3 pin plug on the Bi-Xenon ballast on each headlamp. As for functionality - this means that when you pull the stalk towards you, the high beam halogen lights turn on (flash to pass). When you push the stalk away from you to activate main beam, the halogen high beam lights turn on and the solenoid in the Bi-Xenon opens, lowering the shield and increasing the light output of the Xenon. If you don't do the additional wiring, then flash to pass and main beam both just use the halogen H7 bulb. Washers and self levelling is a bit of a grey area. If you're doing it by the letter of the law, then yes, you absolutely need self levelling and headlamp washers installed. However - is it worth retrofitting? I don't think so - my system leaks constantly, so I've ended up disabling it completely. My car never had self levelling and I haven't retrofitted that either. I've had 5 MOT's now with disabled headlight washers and no self levelling and have passed all of them with no issue. Studying the MOT regs states: 4.1.6 Headlamp cleaning devices You must inspect vehicles first used on or after 1 September 2009 equipped with headlamp washers. ... Headlamp cleaning device: inoperative - Minor inoperative in the case of LED or gas discharge systems (HID) - Major The gov site also states for self levelling: Vehicles with high intensity discharge (HID) or LED dipped beam headlamps may be fitted with a suspension or headlamp self-levelling system. If these systems have been fitted, they must work. Reading those - any car registered before 2009 won't have the headlamp washers checked as part of the MOT - an E46 won't be post 2009 so I think it's fine. My car although it didn't come with HID/LED dipped beams from the factory, it also didn't come with self levelling, so I would think that the system can't be checked if it's not installed. If you have a height adjustment dial on the light switch, this must work. As for is it worth it - absolutely, 100%. The light output from Xenon headlamps is so much better than halogen - I wouldn't want to go back now. Let us know how it goes and if you need further assistance!
  13. Definitely sounds like the stat still - I used genuine BMW for the EGR stat (however I've now completely removed the EGR and cooler. For the main stat I've used Circoli. Takes around 5-10 miles to get up to 86c and stays there. That's a 330d though, the 320d might take a different time.
  14. Diagnostics is your first port of call. Judging by those symptoms though I'd be looking at the presupply pump - but instead of buying parts willy-nilly, plug it in and get a proper code read.
  15. What do you think I mean? A sticky button is a button that's sticky - gets stuck down, or doesn't engage properly. Isn't as smooth as a normal button, just a bit sticky.
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