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About simonlpearce

  • Rank
    Sex - The Breakfast Of Champions
  • Birthday 27/01/1984

Profile Information

  • Current Car
    E36 M3 Evo Indiviual
  • Gender
  • Location
    Worcester - Midlands

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  1. As per the title i am looking for an E46 Coupe 330. Preferably a sport, has to be manual, non-sunroof and sub 100k miles. Rust free would also be a bonus. Have cash waiting, please PM me with details. I am based in the Midlands.
  2. Yes, bad stat. Car should be warm after maximum 10 mins, probably even 5.
  3. Just done drivers rear on the touring and didn't need to drop my tank, everything was actually really rather easy. Bleeding the brakes though was a different matter, had to get it in to my mechanic to do that, but probably because the system ran dry back to the abs system.
  4. Pah, plenty of room in a touring. Much more than in a coupe and probably as much in the loon, plus its a much more useable car day to day for lugging stuff about.
  5. I had a cheap tourer for myself as a daily hack. Paid £1800 for a 325 petrol sport with 118k miles. Clutch has been done but after 3 days of owning it the radiator went pop. So i have replaced the rad, thermostat, water pump and expansion tank. Then the fuel pump failed, tried going down the used route but the used one just failed 3 months later so went for a new fuel pump which has been fine since. Next up it was due for an MOT and to be fair i knew this when buying that the front end was knocking. Replaced all the control arms, inner/outer track rods, drop links etc. Then because the handbrake was crap decided to replace all the rear shoes and associated springs & clips. Oh i should also mention i re-built the front brakes too after they were binding a month into ownership, so new pistons, seals, pads and discs. Also to get it through the MOT I have had to replace the offside rear brake pipe. And finally one of the bolts for the front subframe was welded in place. I later found that this was because the captive nut inside the frame rail was just spinning and the only way to fix it was to cut the head of the bolt off and then cut in through the drivers wheel arch, through the double skinned frame rail to weld a new nut onto, then have everything else welded back up. I still see it as a cheap motor as any car you buy around that price range is going to need some love and attention. Most of which i did myself so its still worked out a cheap car. And now it should be a fairly sorted car.
  6. Same issue for me, very annoying to have to navigate around!
  7. Per our discussion, yep number 2. Couldn't undo the control arm nut so decided to drop the subframe carrier for better access, only to find the captive nut holding the subframe on to the frame rails has broken loose and just spins.
  8. Anyone able to tell me if you can access the captive nut for the front axle carrier by removing the front bumper etc? Part number 2 bolts into it on below link. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=EN32-EUR-06-2002-E46-BMW-325i&diagId=31_0602 Basically i tried to change the control arms on the touring last night, but the inner balljoint nut just wont come off, it just spins the socket without it having been released! The allen key hole in the top of the joint rounded off and i can't get any grips on to stop it spinning either. So as an alternative i decided i would try drop the whole front carrier. Only one of the bolts is just spinning. It seemed the PO had tried and failed to weld it by welding the bolt to the carrier to stop it going anywhere as a temp fix. I got the weld off but the bolt still just spins. Have tried to put some force on so the captive nut grips against the chassis leg but no joy. I'm thinking of just cutting the bolt and pushing whats left back up into the chassis leg then fitting a rivnut, would that work?
  9. Not sure lowered E36 M3 and snowchains will go too well lol. Anyhow im a little gutted to say the least. Been planning this trip for a couple of years now, we were supposed to do it last year but the M3 wasn't quite ready for such a journey so we ended up with a sun holiday instead. Only now we are ready and we have been told the wife's dad is terminally ill and it could only be a matter of days. The trip very much hangs in the balance at the moment depending on his health. Obviously there are more important things to consider in life but it still sucks all the same. The wife being a teacher we don't have much flexibility.
  10. Ah ok then, will pack my Ski's in that case, lol.
  11. Where is that? Will make sure to avoid it, lol.
  12. I think they are past iron x unfortunately. Will just have them powdercoated in the not too distant future. I had a Z4 M Coupe before the E46, but promised the wife a new kitchen so sold that to get a beater for a while, hence the touring. Its not as if i don't have other motor to keep me amused, lol. I'd really love an S54 E30 mind, so might consider getting rid of the track car and going down this route at some point.
  13. They were bronze, but are now more of a tint of brake dust . They were on my tack E36 which had some fairly aggressive pads in that weren't particularly wheel friendly. You could actually see glowing hot pad material shooting off under hard braking i the dark! I now have some Type 3 non-racing on the E36 with sticky rubber on so am using these just to get to and from the track so they were going spare really as track car is off the road at the moment.
  14. Cheers Das, I actually thought they did, and here's proof... Rota Grid Drift in 17x9 ET30 all round. As I said I only put them on until I can get some tyres sorted for the MV1s but now I'm thinking they suit it feather well and a drop could be in order, lol.
  15. I cant recall if 17's will fit over the brakes on a 325? I think they will but can someone put me straight? I have a flat which i can't be bothered to sort this month as im going away in a couple of days so will just do it on my return. It needs a set of 4 new tyres, so in the meantime i was just going to stick my rota grids off my E36 on to keep it mobile.
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