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De Flapped The 320d Differently

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basically took the flaps out and instead of the selt tapper that i was afraid would fall in anyway.

once out i cut the rod (that holds the flap) at the tx screw hole and put it back in again, then i put 4 little 4mm spacer on the actuator rod and popped the rod back in place. the idea of the spacers was too hold the 4 rods (that the flaps used to screw onto) tightly in place and keep the seal

does that make sense, stupidly i forgot pics, i might try and photo shop other pics

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basically took the flaps out and instead of the selt tapper that i was afraid would fall in anyway.

once out i cut the rod (that holds the flap) at the tx screw hole and put it back in again, then i put 4 little 4mm spacer on the actuator rod and popped the rod back in place. the idea of the spacers was too hold the 4 rods (that the flaps used to screw onto) tightly in place and keep the seal

does that make sense, stupidly i forgot pics, i might try and photo shop other pics

Sorry mate, lost me on that one - doesn't quite make sense.

Pics might helps however.

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sorry this read didnt show up so i didnt elaborate on it

this pic shows where i cut the rod. its cut just after the tx screw and left with a few mm of rod on the swirl flap

swirlflap1.jpg

then i put the swirl flap(or de-flap)back in as shown in the pic below. now the spacer is on the actuator rod because the flap(no.3 below) itself is what held the swirl flap unit together.

swirlflap2.jpg

the illustration below shows the swirl flap in 3 pieces.

the rod...no.1.... and the flap...no.3... come at no.2 from each end and hold each other in place when screwed together via the black spots in the illustration. when i removed the flap...no.3... the rod...no.1...had nothing to hold it in place and make a seal.

i put a spacer on the actuator rod to hold the swirl flap rod...no.1... tight against no.2 below to make the seal. a small nut will do also

swirlflap3.jpg

make sense???

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Sounds ok..

Tbh though id always rather get rid of the problem completely than do something like this. Blanks are approx £10each so not too expensive and there's no chance at all of anything coming loose and destroying your engine.

I think I understand what you've done and yes it'll help - but as above id rather just be done with it..

Another way of DIY'ing this is to remove the flap and replace it with a screw with some loctite type of bonding agent on there so the screw cant come out.

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well im the latest to have the swirl flap failure. however i have lost the whole flap!! it hasnt got passed the valve yet so im halfway in to recover it!! can anyone help on the head removal side?? ie timing chain removal. do i need pins to set it?? have lots of pics if anyone wants to see i can post. cheers!

post-2813-1279990226_thumb.jpg

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i removed the whole flap shaft and was left with a hole. screwed a massive selftapper liberally dosed in oil resistant sealant to fill the hole. Self tapper was screwed from the outside so it will never come loose and make its way into the engine.

blanks are dear enough and unless you want to go back to the flaps, not really needed. Have seen others use a bolt and nylock nut but even then something *could* come loose. Big brutal screw worked a treat for me.

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Aware of this swirl flap issue I have attempted to read up on whether mine is a model at risk. When when i read things talking about different engines etc i get a bit lost as i dont know very much about cars.

Is a 2005 320cd (55plate) also at risk?

apologies in advance if the answer to this is obvious elsewhere

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Ok I just brought mine and flaps have alredy been removed but coming from a 1.9tdi passat it feels sluggish low down but then picks up and goes well.

BMW's have a different power delivery to VAG's.. I know exactly what you mean but it's perfectly normal. :)

VAG's seem to be good low down but run out of puff at the top end. With BMW's it's the other way around. I've driven 2.0ltr BMW's and VW's so can compare directly. Not driven a 3.0ltr Audi yet so can't compare those.

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