evolutionrob Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Hi im new to this forum, i have had my e46 318ti (n42 2 litre) sept 2001 (51) for 2.5 years its just ticked on to 171'000 miles over the past few months i have had to change the fuel pump and relay, and the breather hose on top of the engine..... for past couple of months when first started it miss fires and runs rough for about 20 seconds then stalls then i try again and it starts and runs fine but wont rev over 5000 rpm in any gear, and power delivery is really unstable i had it code read on a snap on reader and it threw up the following codes 272A L/R Adaption Multiplicative Areal Bank 1 272B L/R Adaption Multiplicative Areal Bank 2 27CE Load Sensor Monitering 27C3 Thermical Oil Level Sensor The local garage couldnt make sense of these .... since then within 2 months its not started atall 3 times not even firing left for 20 mins starts runs rough 20 secs then stalls then starts and runs but not reving over 5000rpm still, so driving with this problem for some time i went with it as it was working ok and i had to get to work, driving in the heat on saturday it lost all power to the throttle wouldnt even try to rev nothing there, then power came back after about 10 seconds, now it constantly runs rough and doesnt even start at times miss firing then stalling and sometimes stuggling to keep its self alive, i have had it read off snap on reader again returning these results... 272A L/R Adaption Multiplicative Areal Bank 1 272B L/R Adaption Multiplicative Areal Bank 2 27CE Load Sensor Monitering 271A Lambda in front of cat 2722 Lambda in front of cat Bank 2 2721 Lambda ASINS of cat Bank 1 (< excuse garage writing) 2727 Bank 2 as above 2799 abort du adaption because of enviroment 2825 lambda sensor Asins rear of cat (vi-test) 10278 (2826) undocumented above was read after i had driven it 20 miles in 3 hours of constant breaking down every couple of miles so some code could be thrown up from rough running unburnt fuel in cat or what not but it has gone through a gallon of oil in past 3 months aswell, i have tried to be as specific as poss, if you guys cant help i will either have to take it to my local bmw specialist who also has snap on reader or the £100 + option of the main dealer would there reader be more specific we have had ideas of ecu, fuel rail, coil packs, and almost ruled out the crank sensor as it was running and starting ok what are your views please help i can do most the work myself i changed the clutch a year ago Many thanks Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CliffThomson Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 (edited) First, make sure your battery is fully charged. Low voltages can cause some of these issues, plus your starting/running problems. If your battery is staying low, it may be your alternator not charging, or your FSR (Final stage resistor for the aircon) draining the battery. Then, unplug the MAF (Mass Air Flow Meter) and see if it runs any better then. If it does, clean or replace the MAF. Also look for air leaks and the like. Taking a can of carb/brake cleaner and spraying it over the hoses on the engine will tell you if you've got a split hose somewhere. Revs rise? Bingo, there is your problem. A gallon of oil in the last 3 months isn't out of spec, but i;'d also suspect that maybe the oil seperator (or Crankcase Control Valve) may need looking at or replacement too. Edited August 22, 2012 by CliffThomson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evolutionrob Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 thanks alot for taking time to reply, i have got a new battery and alternator as of april this year so no problems there that really made a difference when i changed this i changed the crankcase ventilation control valve about 2 months ago so i feel this is what has sparked the problem i will try the carb / break cleaner and disconnecting the maf and get back to you with a responce.... here is what is being suggested on another forum http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=939987 many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evolutionrob Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 what is going to be the best way to check vacuum leaks if the car runs rough or doesn't even start? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CliffThomson Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 This "Also look for air leaks and the like. Taking a can of carb/brake cleaner and spraying it over the hoses on the engine will tell you if you've got a split hose somewhere. Revs rise? Bingo, there is your problem." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evolutionrob Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 but if the car constantly miss fires and runs rough (struggles to keep running almost firing on 2 cilinders) and hardly starts im going to struggle to tell unless its a considerable difference so it could be a tricky task but i will attempt it after work, thanks for the reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CliffThomson Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Like i said, try unplugging the MAF. That could be the cause of all of these issues. if it runs better then you know where your problem is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evolutionrob Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 brill ok thank you, the traction control light was flashing while it was running rough when i was driving it, could this be a symptom leading to the throttle body, also the fact there was no power at all when i pushed the pedal at times, and the servo makes a whining noise in the throttle body ... could this lead to something else? just throwing more symptoms at you .... the garage that code read it said they sprayed round the intake manifold with carb cleaner but couldnt find anything so i will take it a stage further and have a real good look in to what the issue might be, many thanks for your time i have a lot to try now to get the problem resolved, regards rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wash Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 the garage that code read it said they sprayed round the intake manifold with carb cleaner but couldnt find anything so i will take it a stage further and have a real good look in to what the issue might be, You don't need to spray on the intake manifold, you need to spray on all the pipes around the actual air intake. If there's a split somewhere in the pipes then the engine will be taking in un-metered air which will cause it to run rough. Cliff suggested above that it could be your MAF, only takes a minute to unplug and if it makes a difference and then you know what your problem is. Also with regards to the codes, those are generic ones and aren't all that helpful. If you're intending on keeping the car and you have access to a laptop then I completely recommend buying INPA, a BMW specific diagnostic program which will save you lots of time and money in the future diagnosing problems. B0B 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CliffThomson Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Let us know where you are too, one of us may be able to help you if you're not too far away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evolutionrob Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 brill im near Diss in South Norfolk if any body can help... Im going to go and retrieve my car from the garage after work see if it will limp home if not drag her home and crack on many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evolutionrob Posted August 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 (edited) right i picked my e46 up from the garage it started and ran badly, get it halfway home it starts to run a bit better, i took of air box and cleaned all the sensors i could in that area, spraying about with penetrating fluid with no fluctuations in idle speed i also removed and fully cleaned the camshaft sensors and decreased all of the muck and crud around them, they where filthy! since then it has ran ok but still doesn't freely rev above 5000 rpm it feels like it runs out of power, it also starts badly miss fireing and running rough stalls then next turn of the key bam it works fin i drove it to work this morning the power delivery up to 5000 revs is great alot smoother with alot more power, after about 10 miles it throws up the check engine light but doesn't seem to have changed in performance, i cannot easily get these codes read unless i can blag the garage to do it... ... when i started the car with the airbox off it seemed to start fine with it on it started rough i will confim by unplugging maf and starting it compared to plugged in and come back with the results any ideas? many thanks Rob Edited August 23, 2012 by evolutionrob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evolutionrob Posted August 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 ... when i started the car with the airbox off it seemed to start fine with it on it started rough i will confim by unplugging maf and starting it compared to plugged in and come back with the results ... i have done this test 3 times with maf plugged in every time it starts rough ... and 3 times unplugged and it starts fine ... i will clean the sensor after work and report back with my results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny 5C Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 i have done this test 3 times with maf plugged in every time it starts rough ... and 3 times unplugged and it starts fine ... So its a FUBAR MAF then? Clean might help. If not, get a new one. Common issue. You can drive with the MAF unplugged. Engine will use a default map. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CliffThomson Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 Definitely sounds like the MAF. Try cleaning it. Use Maplin contact cleaner ( DO not use switch cleaner, as it'll coat the MAF element with lubricants) Not sure if the 2.0 uses the same MAF as the earlier 8 valve engines. Take a look on reloem.com and find out of you can. I've a practically (fitted to my previous car for 1 week) brand new one due to a misdiagnosis by a roving read your codes firm (read bunch of muppets), when i had the 318... Still have the original ECP receipt for £170 for it too, ouch.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evolutionrob Posted May 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 Hello again I have changed the maf and cam shaft sensors and fuel filter / pressure reg I am only getting 20mpg and it still won't rev past 4500 rpm, I have had it code read will post up the codes later on inspection of the fuel rail the o rings on the injectors are loose and not in great condition but not perished could this be a problem? The code reader said running to lean p0171 p0174 and a injector 4 issue any advise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evolutionrob Posted May 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 (edited) I have swapped the CCV aswell Edited May 5, 2013 by evolutionrob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evolutionrob Posted May 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 I have swapped the CCV aswell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
