daza-b Posted January 12, 2013 Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 I did this job following the youtube video, just noticed this today, yes taking the DISA valve off makes life much easier, it took me just short of 5 hours, would have been quicker if i hadn't sliced my finger open lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B7TMW Posted February 10, 2013 Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 I need to do this on my 530. Thanks as I was thinking inlet manifold off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomsk Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 Just done this to mine, cracking DIY guide. One of the best I've read. Started at 10.00 this morning, and just finished! Would have been a good 45 minutes quicker if I'd seated the dipstick tube correctly, so had to pull out the air box etc again! Doh! Moral of this is, if it doesn't feel right, it probably isn't, so don't bolt it all back together until you are convinced! Many thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike k Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 Thanks for a great guide although not sure i've got the balls to do such a task. What's a good way of knowing it needs doing aside from oil usage? Will the exhaust fumes smell oilly when the cars sitting there running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomsk Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 I was advised by our local Indy, that it might need doing. On top of the oil usage, I'd hit 100k, was doing more city miles and emissions were a bit high. I'd also had a strange O2 sensor code in the memory. They thought that the valve could be the culprit, but nothing that said it was urgent, so more preventative in my case. There was a bit of mayo gunk in there, but not as bad as some of the images I've seen online! My comment with hindsight, don't do it if you've got any back problems; 5 hours bent over the near side wing; will leave its effects ;-) Crawls off whimpering! cash_13 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Mark Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 At the rate my car produces that gunk I would not be surprised if my CCV could do with replacing again this year !! Is there no way to bypass or improve this system ?? Jakem1990 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R2D2 Posted March 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 At the rate my car produces that gunk I would not be surprised if my CCV could do with replacing again this year !! Is there no way to bypass or improve this system ?? Yes, you can buy the cold climate ccv kit instead of the warm climate one (see the first part of my DIY). Its lagged with insulation so the air inside the beather pipes doesnt condense as much, meaning less clogging. The cold climate valve looks an absolute pig to fit though due to it being bigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R2D2 Posted March 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 Thanks for a great guide although not sure i've got the balls to do such a task. What's a good way of knowing it needs doing aside from oil usage? Will the exhaust fumes smell oilly when the cars sitting there running? Just get stuck in mate, its not that hard, just a bit fiddly in places. Watch the video i posted at the bottom a few times and then follow my DIY step by step and youll be absolutely fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninarin Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Great guide! I've not had my E46 330i for long and I think I may need to replace the CCV valve. What sort of climate do BMW recommend installing the insulated kit? UK climate cold enough? My M54 seems to have sludge in the cam cover where the oil filler cap is. Is this a normal symptom for the CCV valve being blocked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozzabeemer Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Read your guide .great.write up . But im a little short on patience in me old age so i took it in to my indie last week.£ 120 for the kit +£100. Labour. Moz Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R2D2 Posted March 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 Great guide! I've not had my E46 330i for long and I think I may need to replace the CCV valve. What sort of climate do BMW recommend installing the insulated kit? UK climate cold enough? My M54 seems to have sludge in the cam cover where the oil filler cap is. Is this a normal symptom for the CCV valve being blocked? Your oil filler cap isnt part of the cam housing (the cam/valve housing is to the left of the main engine block as you look at the front of the car), but yes this can be fairly normal if you do some short trips. A more typical indication of a blocked ccv would be a drop in oil levels because the oil seperator gets gunked up and oil vapours get sucked into the inlet manifold. I would say that the weather weve been having lately would warrant a cold climate version! The foam insulation basically stops condensation building up inside your ccv and mixing with the oil vapours and clogging everything up. It looks a right pain to fit the cold climate valve though as its a very tight fit. Read your guide .great.write up . But im a little short on patience in me old age so i took it in to my indie last week.£ 120 for the kit +£100. Labour. Moz Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2 Thats a fair price to be honest. The parts cost me £90, and it took a good few hours to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlouie2000 Posted March 27, 2013 Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 I rang an indie today asking for a price to replace the ccv, he quoted me £40 for the part and an HOUR labour (£55) !!! it was the BMW indi in Barry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R2D2 Posted March 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 I rang an indie today asking for a price to replace the ccv, he quoted me £40 for the part and an HOUR labour (£55) !!! it was the BMW indi in Barry Lol! Bite his hand off mate!! I don't care if he's boyd coddington, theres no way on earth he could do it in an hour. Make sure you agree that price upfront though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozzabeemer Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 I rang an indie today asking for a price to replace the ccv, he quoted me £40 for the part and an HOUR labour (£55) !!! it was the BMW indi in Barry When i had mine done recently i had all the pipes replaced as they tend to go brittle .no point doing half the job .hence £120.for the full kit From the bm dealership + 2 hrs labour. Moz Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R2D2 Posted March 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 When i had mine done recently i had all the pipes replaced as they tend to go brittle .no point doing half the job .hence £120.for the full kit From the bm dealership + 2 hrs labour. Moz Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2 Yes that is a good point, the indy may have been talking about just replacing the valve. Pointless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B0B Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 This is the next job on my "to do list" I can get the kit from C3bmw for £88.00 + £5.50 delivery or £123.00 including delivery for genuine OEM kit from Cotswold BMW. Any suggestions on who to use for the parts? Cheers Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keano Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 Getting mine done on thurs at £200 all in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B0B Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 I have ordered the OEM set in the end, will be fitting it myself this weekend. I love learning more about my motor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R2D2 Posted April 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 I have ordered the OEM set in the end, will be fitting it myself this weekend. I love learning more about my motor Only just seen your earlier post. I bouhgt mine from c3bmw. They use Meyle parts which are very good. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R2D2 Posted April 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Getting mine done on thurs at £200 all in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Are you sure theyre not just replacing your valve?! That seems extremely cheap labour costs (considering ~£100 will be going on the parts) if theyre claiming to do all the hoses as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B0B Posted April 19, 2013 Report Share Posted April 19, 2013 Only just seen your earlier post. I bouhgt mine from c3bmw. They use Meyle parts which are very good. Good luck. I wonder if the dimensions for the meyle parts are slightly different as I have just spent ages trying to fit the valve with the hose attached? No matter how I position it i can't seem to clean the throttle body housing. In the morning I am going to have a go at fitting the valve and hose separately like he does in the third video you linked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B0B Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 Just to update this, after trying for nearly two hours yesterday to fit the valve with the hose attached as per this DIY. this morning I tried to fit the hose first then put the valve into position, then rotated the hose 90 degrees away from you, click it onto the valve and pull the hose back through 90 degrees into its final position. Less than ten minutes and on the second attempt it clicked into place. I would defineatley recommend fitting the hose and valve separately as it was easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R2D2 Posted April 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 Good work. I can't quite remember whether I did mine with the hose attached, but I can definitely remember it being a ball ache. Fitting the valve is definitely the hardest part of the job. Well done. Any other problems while doing it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B0B Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 Nope the rest of it was straight forward. Just the vanos seals and rattle kit to do next them I will be happy with the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mca Posted May 18, 2013 Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 (edited) Afternoon all, first post so hopefully I'll get this right... Thanks first off to R2D2 for the excellent guide, followed it today and have successfully taken the CCV valve and all the hoses off after quite a bit of messing around (ended up deliberately break two of the hoses and connectors to get things out). I was about to fit the new parts, supplied by c3bmw as mentioned by R2D2 and B0B, but noticed that the valve is slightly different and now I'm concerned about fitting it. I've fired off an enquiry to c3bmw but thought additional opinions would be good too. This is the old/current part:Notice the red/orange cone shape, there are also round holes in the main body of the CCV valve in a circular pattern around it and through those you can see what looks to be the rest of the item that the red/orange cones is a part of.And the new part from c3bmw is here:Which has no red/orange cone or the circular pattern of holes in the main body of the CCV valve. So, any thoughts/suggestions as to why there's a difference and should I be concerned? R2D2 & B0B, did you happen to notice whether the replacement CCV valves you used had this difference? Thanks, mca Edit: Further info and resolution in this thread - http://www.e46zone.com/forum/topic/45904-ccv-valve-replacement-question/ Edited May 19, 2013 by mca Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
