TriggerFish Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Ah, two window motors buried under bags of clips and other useful bits and pieces, sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley1995 Posted February 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Ah, two window motors buried under bags of clips and other useful bits and pieces, sorry. Ah, cheers though! Got these through today though, front Anti-Roll Bar and Front Lower Rear Wishbone or 'lollipop' bushes. Gone for eccentric M3 ones rather than the standard centred ones. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley1995 Posted February 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 (edited) Double post, Damn Tapatalk! Edited February 3, 2016 by Ashley1995 Double post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley1995 Posted February 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Got my ARB polybushes on, and the roll bar installed back on the subframe. Glad I did this before it went back in the car. What a PITA! Needs a quick spray over where so of the paint has come off Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk The_Judge_ and TriggerFish 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley1995 Posted February 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 I took last Friday off work to crack on with some bits. Changed the sump gasket, didn't really need doing but having the subframe off makes this 10x easier so for the cheap price of a new one it was worth doing at this point. Also stripped the old bush out the 'lollipop' and sprayed these ready for the new ones. Alternator and brackets came off to be cleaned and painted and had a bit of a tidy/sort of parts and the garage. No pictures, but i'm doing more tonight so i'll get some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley1995 Posted February 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 Following on from the other day, I now have this! Got the 'lollipop' bushes in the newly sprayed brackets/holders. Got them attached to the lower arms and then them onto the subframe. Along with the drop links. The bushes went on fairly easily, I'm surprised. I was expecting them to be a complete PITA Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk R11CH 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriggerFish Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 I've just done one of mine, and getting it on wasn't too bad, but getting it off was a pain! I did it on the car though, and bought prepushed bushes and lolipops. All looks lovely and clean though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley1995 Posted February 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 (edited) Getting the old ones off was killer! Have you gone for polybushes or? Everything has been freshly painted or bought new. Although it's now covered in dust where I have been sanding etc Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited February 10, 2016 by Ashley1995 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriggerFish Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 I know, I dremeled mine off. Will be paying someone in the future though! I went for standard non-m3 bushes. I didn't want poly bushes, but I wish I'd gone for the eccentric ones for the increased castor. Oh well. I've been painting bits up too. It's amazing how much nicer it all looks, but also how nice it is to work on stuff without getting covered in oil. Ashley1995 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R11CH Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 Just been reading through your restoration. Loving the attention to detail as that is where its at! I bare shelled restored my 93 Eg6 track car, i had everything powdercoated, you get such great satisfaction from it and makes future work so much nicer. This was my subframe after the car had seen some road and track action, good as new still Keep up the good work. Ashley1995 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley1995 Posted February 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 Thanks man, it is very satisfying having everything clean and fresh Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley1995 Posted February 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 Like Triggerfish, Saturday I decided to have a go at pulling the engine. Mine didn't come out, because I ran out of time. Mainly because my hoist was in a friends garage and my dad wasn't around (with his van) to go and pick it up. So I had to help a friend unload his trailer and then pop over to get it. It was about 11:30 by the time I started. Although it is one bolt away from being completely disconnected. Loom is all unplugged, fuel lines off, slave cylinder disconnected, gearbox and engine mounts off, exhaust disconnected etc. Lastly there is just one single bolt in the propshaft left to come out. Annoyingly it's right at the top of the tunnel... The other night I also stripped all the interior, to start pulling the wiring loom out. A rather daunting task I'll admit.. The picture below shows some of the wires that were not needed. Luckily I didn't have someone else's dodgy alarm to mess with. Just this audio mess. Spring compressors have arrived so I can finish stripping the front struts and get them blasted/painted/cleaned. Today I went through all the paperwork I had with the car and took a decent look at what had been done previously. I've also kept all receipts etc too. Here's the pile... And this little interesting piece A list of what the owner had done as a service in 2010. Under 30k miles ago Receipts are there to back this up too. Pictures of course... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriggerFish Posted February 21, 2016 Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 Just one bolt?! So close I'm sure you've thought of this, but can't you jack the rear of the car up and spin the prop/wheels so that the bolt is accessible? Having the back of the car as high as possible compared to the front is meant to make removing the engine/gearbox easier too, as it lessens the angle that the gearbox needs to be tipped at. I'd also suggest an engine load balancer too - made life soooo much easier! Once we'd got it moving, mine was out in under 15 minutes, without rushing. Without the load balancer, it would have been much, much longer. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252142405774?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The problem is that, as the gearbox is still attached to the engine, you will find that as you raise the height of the engine to get it out of the bay, the gearbox will get stuck on the underside of the transmission tunnel. With a load balancer, you can then lower the back of the gearbox relative to the front of the engine, clearing the tunnel, without lowering it back into the bay. For the sake of the ~£20, I'd not consider trying this job without one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley1995 Posted February 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 For the sake of the ~£20, I'd not consider trying this job without one. Yeah so close, just got late and I needed to get ready to go out! I did consider raising the rear but it's tricky to get the jack under with the front already up. And there's no where to jack the immediately. I could have probably done that if I had some more time to think about it. Also considered a load balancer but thought they were more expensive than that so just thought I'd try without. But for that price it makes sense... I'm in no rush so may get one and wait until it arrives. [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley1995 Posted February 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 Finally got around to getting the rear off the floor and onto stands, meaning I could spin the wheels bringing that final propshaft bolt so it was easier to undo. Now this is undone the engine and box is completely disconnected and ready to lift out. Although I will take Joe's advice and wait to get a load balancer. Did have a little scare with the jack.... the screw to release the pressure was so loose the slightest tap and it unexpectedly undid, releasing the pressure and dropping the car. Thankfully only my arm was under the car and a jack stand was in place...Still caused some brown trousers. And that is why we use stands kids.... Did a little more sanding and engine bay prep for welding... but I am so bored with spending time on this I moved on and cleaned up my front struts and springs instead. Look alright now after two coats of primer and a coat of black. Need another coat but much better. R11CH, The_Judge_ and berts 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley1995 Posted March 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 Annnnnddddd......... It's out! TriggerFish 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriggerFish Posted March 15, 2016 Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 Yay! Find it hard to actually remove? I was surprised in the end. How did you get that final bit of the gear shifter out? Did you have any plans for the engine, or just replace the gearbox seals/shifter and replace? Dunno if this is helpful, but it's a price list from Cotswold from yesterday of all the bits listed on the e30zone wiki for a shifter refresh/overhaul... 25117501309 - x1 - £35.1223411466134 - x1 - £2.3325111221243 - x2 - £3.6225111220199 - x1 - £1.6307119932863 - x1 - £0.3125117527252 - x1 - £53.86 (z3 1.9 shifter)24111220439 - x2 - £2.8725117571899 - x2 - £3.1625111220600 - x1 - £8.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley1995 Posted March 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 11 hours ago, TriggerFish said: Yay! Find it hard to actually remove? I was surprised in the end. How did you get that final bit of the gear shifter out? Did you have any plans for the engine, or just replace the gearbox seals/shifter and replace? Dunno if this is helpful, but it's a price list from Cotswold from yesterday of all the bits listed on the e30zone wiki for a shifter refresh/overhaul... In the end it wasn't so bad. Once I had undone the CB on the prop it slid out the gearbox easily enough. The hardest bit was raising the back and lowering the front of the car. Next time i will extend my crane arm to give me a little more height. Out the inside of the car or out the engine bay? i got enough of an angle on the engine that it dropped low enough out the car itself. Out the engine bay, as it got stuck on the tunnel, I undid one of the joints to the gearbox and folded it down out the way. Clutch, seals, shifter, exhaust gaskets, slave cylinder. Then I'm going to repaint the rocker cover and inlet manifold as I'm not happy with the finish from last time. Then clean it all up, maybe paint the block and replace. I'll probably find something else that needs doing at some point too. Thanks, I actually got a quote for the same parts just the other day. Little more expensive than what it says on E30Zone now! But I may as well do the lot and recondition everything whilst it's out. TriggerFish 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriggerFish Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Just a tip I found the other day while it's all apart: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=266708 There's two different types of cam/oil pump drive - the original 'solid' designed wheels, and the later spoked 'sintered' wheels. The original designs are prone to failure, resulting in no timing and a dead engine. I think that they changed them in 1986, but it's worth checking as I found my new engine has an updated cam gear, but the old design (and very rusty) oil pump drive. Annoyingly, it's a lower timing cam cover off job to check, and you'd need to remove the rotor cap up top. For the 30 minutes of work though, I'd say it's worth it given the results of a failure! http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/attachment.php?attachmentid=61571&stc=1&d=1350848751 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley1995 Posted March 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Clutch was swapped out over the weekend. That was a PITA but sorted now, did a bit more prep to the engine ready for paint as well. Old vs New LUK clutch 15 hours ago, TriggerFish said: Just a tip I found the other day while it's all apart: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=266708 There's two different types of cam/oil pump drive - the original 'solid' designed wheels, and the later spoked 'sintered' wheels. The original designs are prone to failure, resulting in no timing and a dead engine. I think that they changed them in 1986, but it's worth checking as I found my new engine has an updated cam gear, but the old design (and very rusty) oil pump drive. Annoyingly, it's a lower timing cam cover off job to check, and you'd need to remove the rotor cap up top. For the 30 minutes of work though, I'd say it's worth it given the results of a failure! http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/attachment.php?attachmentid=61571&stc=1&d=1350848751 Iv'e not heard about that before... as you say I think it is worth looking at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley1995 Posted April 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 Today, I pulled the inlet manifold off the engine, removed the injectors to send off for refurbishment. Then I spent some time sanding back and painting various parts including the timing belt casing. Which Triggerfish kindly sent me as mine was broken. So thanks again Joe! I've ordered the parts I need for the short shift conversion, and ordered a braided clutch line to go between the slave cylinder and the master. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk TriggerFish 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriggerFish Posted April 2, 2016 Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 Not a problem Looks a lot cleaner now than it did on my engine! I got my short shift parts too today. I placed the order with Cotswolds on Friday at 10.10 (according to the card reciept) and they were here at midday today! 26 hour delivery, which is pretty impressive from BMW and Royal Mail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley1995 Posted April 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 Not a problem [emoji4] Looks a lot cleaner now than it did on my engine! I got my short shift parts too today. I placed the order with Cotswolds on Friday at 10.10 (according to the card reciept) and they were here at midday today! 26 hour delivery, which is pretty impressive from BMW and Royal Mail. Amazing what a difference a quick clean and some paint can do. Oh good stuff, Did you go for everything to refresh the existing too? As well as short shift parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriggerFish Posted April 2, 2016 Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 Yep BMW wanted £55 for the Z3 1.9 shift rod, but I found one on eBay on Friday for £20 posted, so happy days there! I was happy with the shift length, it's the fact the gear stick moved about the same amount left/right as it did back/forth that I wanted to fix. Just got to try and work out how it all goes together again now! Ashley1995 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley1995 Posted April 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 Some goodies from BMW arrived this week. All the parts for my short shift. Plus some extras to make it all feel perfect again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
